Is my Corsair XD5 Faulty? New to watercooling!

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Hi guys,

new to the forum and watercooling!

Just built my first water cooled rig, pretty impressed with myself to be honest! Didn't think it would come out as clean as it did! Only made 1 mistake with PETG tubing too.

So I installed everything and started to fill the Corsair XD5 pump/res combo and the pump was perfectly quiet and then boom I'm getting some strange crackling, vibrating kind of noise coming from the pump.

I assumed it was air (I didn't run the pump dry) and carried on with leak testing and even booted up perfectly fine. Bios showed pump running at 100% even though 4 pin connector is connecting to the water pump header.

I've tilted the whole rig in all directions possible to remove air. There is no air in the tubes and possible a small amount of air in the rads (not 100% sure). But this noise is a little concerning.

Build details - watercooling side (if needed):
  • EK SE coolstream slim classic 360 with Noctua NF-F12 (using these off my 360 ryujin)
  • EK PE coolstream 360 with Noctua NF-F12 3000rpm
  • EK Velocity CPU Block
  • EK Vector RTX RE GPU block
  • EK 10/12mm PETG tubing
  • All EK fittings apart from the Y splitter and the 90's.
  • EK Cryofuel coolant with EK Indigo Violet concentrate.
  • Corsair XD5 pump/res combo.
https://imgur.com/591t7jb

https://imgur.com/DDpbn38

When it was running the temps were great - even gamed shortly just to make sure things were seated correctly.

All components were brand new from Overclockers apart from the GPU block.

Any advice would be much appreciated.
 
That sounds like something is grinding, air in the pump (cavitation) sounds different to that. As it's basically a PWM D5 pump connected to a reservoir I wonder if it's been incorrectly assembled at the factory? I would be tempted to strip it down and see if it's a easy fix but be extra careful not to damage anything in case you need to RMA it. I have a pair of D5's and have never heard anything like that from them.

I think you have the gpu inlet/outlet the wrong way around. If your gpu block has a jet plate the inlet is usually the left port and the outlet on the right.
 
That sounds like something is grinding, air in the pump (cavitation) sounds different to that. As it's basically a PWM D5 pump connected to a reservoir I wonder if it's been incorrectly assembled at the factory? I would be tempted to strip it down and see if it's a easy fix but be extra careful not to damage anything in case you need to RMA it. I have a pair of D5's and have never heard anything like that from them.

I think you have the gpu inlet/outlet the wrong way around. If your gpu block has a jet plate the inlet is usually the left port and the outlet on the right.


Hi, thanks for the response! I will have a look today - yeah it doesn't sound too good very metallic and got worried.

I have a picture of what the block looks like (not sure if it has a jet plate or not?)

https://imgur.com/Xu7hPxY

Appreciate your help! Is there anything else you have spotted that looks out of place? Being new I did do a lot of reading before doing it but as always with something new things don't always go to plan!
 
Yes, it has a jetplate (plate above the fins) so left side for inlet, right side for outlet. The jetplate optimises the water flow across the fins for best performance. Can't tell from the picture but front fans set to intake and top set to exhaust? Everything else looks fine and that's a nice neat build.
 
Yes, it has a jetplate (plate above the fins) so left side for inlet, right side for outlet. The jetplate optimises the water flow across the fins for best performance. Can't tell from the picture but front fans set to intake and top set to exhaust? Everything else looks fine and that's a nice neat build.

Ahh yes I see what you mean now. I compared to the CPU block. All pipe work has now been rectified but still can't fathom the pump issue. Made sure everything was tight and secured just tried to fill and bleed again and the same thing happened, nice and quiet and then all of a sudden get that metallic noise again. I may have to contact Overclockers to see if they can help.

Yes, that's correct top are exhausting and front are intake, both in push config as the the case doesn't allow me to screw the rad to the case itself. Thank you mate, much appreciated, pretty pleased for my first one :)
 
If you overtighten a pump mount it can cause grinding or excess vibration. I had to back off my D5 mounting pressure on all 8 screws after testing.

Were you able to disassemble and check the impeller? It does sound like there could be something in there or rubbing.
 
If you overtighten a pump mount it can cause grinding or excess vibration. I had to back off my D5 mounting pressure on all 8 screws after testing.

Were you able to disassemble and check the impeller? It does sound like there could be something in there or rubbing.

When I took the pump out I actually found the rear 2 thumb screws on the mounting bracket vibrated loose. I tightened them up finger tight again and they haven't come loose since. I didn't want to dismantle in case that voided warranty or if I broke something (knowing my luck I would have lol).

It's not leaning or screwed to the back of the case - its screwed to a mount on the power supply shroud. Checked everything I could without taking it to bits really.

I took another video with me starting it up which should show that its 100% pump related - it starts up with a nice hum and then this rackety noise. I put my hand around it to see if I could stop the noise (in case of vibration) but nothing seems to stop it.

https://imgur.com/efzPTl3

Worst thing is I use this machine for work hence why I chose this long weekend to get it done haha.
 
Just a quick update - It is 100% the pump. I entered the BIOS and enabled PWM on the W_PUMP+ header and reduced the pump speed and the rackety noise vanished. Nevertheless, still seems odd for that noise to be present.

As mentioned I need it for work purposes I will reduce the pump speed until I speak to Overclockers regarding the issue. But agreed with both of your comments and your help is much appreciated!
 
For clarity with that kind of loop you shouldn't need to run the pump at 100%, however with that noise it's absolutely worth getting in touch with support and probably going through with an RMA if they recommend against taking it apart to look at the impeller. I would say that's your most sensible option prior to just sending it back but if you don't want to then just have away with it and get a new one.

Do you have a pump you can use in the interim? It's never fun when you have to mess with your daily driver :(.
 
For clarity with that kind of loop you shouldn't need to run the pump at 100%, however with that noise it's absolutely worth getting in touch with support and probably going through with an RMA if they recommend against taking it apart to look at the impeller. I would say that's your most sensible option prior to just sending it back but if you don't want to then just have away with it and get a new one.

Do you have a pump you can use in the interim? It's never fun when you have to mess with your daily driver :(.

I totally agree, the pump was only ran at 100% during the leak test which with the bridging of the 24pin can't be helped and first boot when I wanted to check everything this morning until I was made aware that the GPU ports were the wrong way around.

I'm going to give them a call on Monday and see what they suggest - I'm hoping they can send me a new XD5 out as soon as (in an ideal world haha) which I don't see happening with the RMA processes. I did think of getting one off amazon for the speedy delivery and just return but again I'd still have to deal with this so for the next few days I will run at a lesser RPM as I don't really have much choice.

Unfortunately, given this was my first water cooled build I don't :( must admit haven't mad much luck with this build from the very beginning, I should have seen it coming! :cry:
 
Atleast it's not something you have ****** up. Would be worse if it was a leak but a faulty part is better as its not your fault so you can do a custom loop. Works the opposite way when it comes to downtime though unfortunately.
 
Atleast it's not something you have ****** up. Would be worse if it was a leak but a faulty part is better as its not your fault so you can do a custom loop. Works the opposite way when it comes to downtime though unfortunately.

Totally agree! I'm just glad it's something I haven't done. Hoping for a positive outcome tomorrow when I call them up.
 
Just an update (I know not that interesting lol). I spoke to them and they agreed the pump is at fault and should get a new pump arrive either tomorrow or Friday, wish me luck! :cry:
 
Yes! Sorry been testing and making sure it was good before posting.

Had the new pump arrive, bled the system and it was silent. There was a very very slight noise but nothing like the previous so decided to keep this one as I don't run the pump at 100%. Been gaming and working on it for the past week and have had no issues.

Although I must admit, temps when playing warzone are significant can reach 70 when loading and between 60-70 whilst gaming. I expected better really! But I have taken some pictures below :) Let me know what you guys think!

https://imgur.com/ZxQ6E8x
https://imgur.com/qIcU5gh
 
Thanks mate!

GPU temps are around 50 or so give or take CPU is between 60-70. Water temps I haven't checked as I have 4 different temp sensors on HW monitor and I actually don't know which one records the temp sensor I plugged in. I only have one temp sensor plugged into the board on T_SENSOR. Is there a way of seeing what the temps are without going into the BIOS?
 
Ahh okay, I'll take that into consideration, I'll download it and check the temps tonight!

No need to apologise!

The rig specs are as follows:

Asus Maximus Hero XI (non Wi-Fi)
i9900k (synced all cores @ 1.295v but not overclocked) - I want to hit the magical 5ghz at the lowest voltage n the near future. Have had a little play previously but decided against it for the moment.
EVGA 2070 Super XC Ultra OC
16gb Corsair LPX 3000 MHz
850w ROG Thor PSU
Asus ROG Strix Helios Case

Watercooling Specs:

  • EK SE coolstream slim classic 360 with Noctua NF-F12 (using these off my 360 ryujin)
  • EK PE coolstream 360 with Noctua NF-F12 3000rpm
  • EK Velocity CPU Block
  • EK Vector RTX RE GPU block
  • EK 10/12mm PETG tubing
  • All EK fittings apart from the Y splitter and the 90's.
  • EK Cryofuel coolant with EK Indigo Violet concentrate.
  • Corsair XD5 pump/res combo.

I have read that temps doesn't matter in the real world in the loop order hence the GPU is the first thing being cooled due to the pump/res combo location. I also understand the i9 9900k is a hot CPU but did expect less (even with the AIO I was reaching 70 odd).

Pump is set to 50% upto 50c then gradual increase to 80% at 70c and 100% at 80c
All fans are set to 30% upto 40c and 60% at 60c
 
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