Just dropped a deposit on some M Power - Trackday Project Car

no the point is he made the thread as if it was a cheap m3 but it wont be after hes spent thousands more so it wont be special it will be a m3.

as for the track i know about the track and what does what many friends and relatives do races or rallies or many events in many different cars. ive been in most the cars that race/rally.

funny thing is one of my family did a m3 similar to this few years ago ;).

That's nothing, there's a bloke on here who has sat in 1000000000 cars
 
What's with S2000's having a reputation for being slow on tracks when they are meant to be an absolute weapon? Too difficult to get speed out of them for your average track day goer?

Probably. Although no one notices a fast one. Just the slow ones
 
this is why i said there is no such thing as a cheap m3 ;) obvious hell end up spending more than what he could have got a clean awesome eg.

before all those dive in just watch this thread and wait and see ;)

So far the only money spent has been £1300 on coil overs which would have being expenditure on any M3 as the stock suspension won't cut it on a stripped out track focused car.

The CSL boot cost me £330 painted.

Taking stuff out the car has so far made me £400 :D
 
Yes m8. The airbag unit just in front of the handbrake. Is that an issue?

Just the fact you said you left the drivers one in....
So it won't work anyway.
However, If this was because of cosmetic reasons alone.... Get an aftermarket wheel and quick release mount. Makes life sooooooooooo much easier getting in and out once you have a cage!
 
Just the fact you said you left the drivers one in....
So it won't work anyway.
However, If this was because of cosmetic reasons alone.... Get an aftermarket wheel and quick release mount. Makes life sooooooooooo much easier getting in and out once you have a cage!

Wheel is cosmetic reasons.

My stock wheel has paddles for the SMG so had no plans to change it due to that. :(
 
I thought you could save around 4.5kg for about £160?

True, but the big savings would be on passenger, rear and even front window, just idea of plastic worries me, as you always see it going misty, plus could create a lot of wind/rattling noise.

Something to consider for sure, I am just not so keen to mess with the glass, once I have it where I can do what I can, I can leave it with someone who has done such projects before and collect it once they've worked their magic and no doubt a big bill afterwards. A mod for the future though I think, not right now.
 
Wheel is cosmetic reasons.

My stock wheel has paddles for the SMG so had no plans to change it due to that. :(

Deep dish 350mm wheel was a great change for me. After fitting the bucket seat (incidentally, the same one you have) I could barely reach the stock wheel any more. Probably because the hip position was lowered quite a bit, yours looks high up in comparison. I guess having reach adjustment on the E46 column makes it easy too.
 
True, but the big savings would be on passenger, rear and even front window, just idea of plastic worries me, as you always see it going misty, plus could create a lot of wind/rattling noise.

Something to consider for sure, I am just not so keen to mess with the glass, once I have it where I can do what I can, I can leave it with someone who has done such projects before and collect it once they've worked their magic and no doubt a big bill afterwards. A mod for the future though I think, not right now.

I think the days of plastic windows going instant yellow are a little behind us now, get the right stuff with the correct coatings and it seems good, to start i'd only change the two rear windows out, means you can get rid of the electric window openers too, so yet more weight saved.
 
The back of Honda Civics and the Leon sixth lights that house the door hand recess seem to do okay..... ;)

Guess its getting that process and material quality into aftermarket land is where it falls down.
 
Don't plexiglass the drivers or passenger door for now, it's more pain in the ass than it's worth.
If it was mine I'd be doing the rear window and the two side rears and leave it at that.
Getting windscreen done is not only stupid money but as you say, with wipers, they don't stay shiny and clear very long. I'd rather I have a piece of glass I can see out of!
 
Don't plexiglass the drivers or passenger door for now, it's more pain in the ass than it's worth.
If it was mine I'd be doing the rear window and the two side rears and leave it at that.
Getting windscreen done is not only stupid money but as you say, with wipers, they don't stay shiny and clear very long. I'd rather I have a piece of glass I can see out of!

Heard the same because the doors are frameless mean plexiglass don't seal so well.

Got the boot, can change battery, then can look at bonnet and front bumper. That's 30-40kg there, if it's circa 1300kg after those I think that would be some achievement. Just drive it then, took a mate in it tonight and he was shocked how fast it felt. :D
 
Yup, just get out there and enjoy it, do the rest as and when.. Mine just seems to sit there, I really aught to do some UK track days with it, instead of covering it over in the barn until a ring trip looks likely LOL.
 
Clarkey, this will make you proud:-

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Wheels in the arches, rear shocks and springs fitted. That's about 325mm from wheel centre, way too low. But not finalising ride height until front is on.

CSL is 350mm front and 345mm rear, I'm gonna go with 345mm front and 340mm rear. 330mm is the lowest possible, any lower and arch liner rubbing can happen and worsens handling. So going with what's ideal and will look far better, but 19's simply fill the arches better.
 
Stay away from trying to slam it as low as possible, they don't like it.
Speak to Curt!

Yeah it's why I'm going for pretty much CSL ride height when CSL owners have fitted these which is 345mm front and 340mm rear is what CSL owners found worked best. :)
330mm is the lowest KW say to go and I'm staying a good 10mm+ above that.
 
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