Knock Knock

timbob said:
I didn't think Bilstein made droplinks, I thought they made shocks and springs, and Pug/Citroen made droplinks...:confused:
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They make the droplinks for Pug/Citroen. GSF sell them and they are identical to the pug/cit ones just not in a pug/cit bag and are about £15 each iirc.

You can tell they are febi/bilstein ones with them being black in colour with little red washers inbetween the bar and the joint like these:

s2droplinks508740.jpg


timbob said:
Just another thought, as you can feel it through the steering wheel - is it your track rod ends?
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I think I was imagining it feeling through the steering wheel to be honest, its mainly from the footwell area I can feel it having just been for a drive now. It's just started tipping it down here so gonna get the car in the garage tonight and take both struts, bottom arms and anti roll bar off and just check absolutely everything!
 
GT3 said:
They make the droplinks for Pug/Citroen. GSF sell them and they are identical to the pug/cit ones just not in a pug/cit bag and are about £15 each iirc.

You can tell they are febi/bilstein ones with them being black in colour with little red washers inbetween the bar and the joint like these:

s2droplinks508740.jpg
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Ahh, cool. I shall get some from GSF when these cheap ones go. The local pug garage wanted over £100 for 2 droplinks - £45 each, plus the VAT!! :eek:


GT3 said:
I think I was imagining it feeling through the steering wheel to be honest, its mainly from the footwell area I can feel it having just been for a drive now. It's just started tipping it down here so gonna get the car in the garage tonight and take both struts, bottom arms and anti roll bar off and just check absolutely everything!
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If you can feel it through the footwell, then it's got to be the ARB - it'll be knocking into the bottom of the car just where your feet are.
 
timbob said:
Ahh, cool. I shall get some from GSF when these cheap ones go. The local pug garage wanted over £100 for 2 droplinks - £45 each, plus the VAT!! :eek:
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Yeah mad isn't it. Could have been Euro Car Parts too though! Can't remember, both companies did two sorts and iirc the oem quality ones were the cheapest ones!

timbob said:
If you can feel it through the footwell, then it's got to be the ARB - it'll be knocking into the bottom of the car just where your feet are.
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Well that's what I thought but the bolts are done to the correct torque and the bushes look new! Also the wishbones are bolted to the footwell also, but I have checked the 16mm bolts holding those under the carpet too.
 
My apologies if I’ve missed it, but have you lowered your car and left the standard shock absorbers on? I’ve seen a few Saxos lowered on the cheap with replacement spring kits and original shock absorbers that knocked while going over bumps.
 
CypherPunk said:
My apologies if I’ve missed it, but have you lowered your car and left the standard shock absorbers on? I’ve seen a few Saxos lowered on the cheap with replacement spring kits and original shock absorbers that knocked while going over bumps.
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Nope uprated shocks and springs.
 
Worth changing the top mounts as they are fairly cheap, but despite your protests I still reckon it may well be the drop links.

Best way of testing them is by putting the car on ramps and wedging a big pry bar between the body and the arb. Then wiggle the pry bar. If the links are knackered you can see the ends jump about. Just giving them a tug won't show you if they are worn out.

It's hard to describe but if you see it done it's unmissable. Do you know any experienced mechanics who would be willing to show you? They should know the procedure I'm talking about.
 
I've got a set of brand new drop links in the garage for my mates 106 so I will put them on anyway when I pull it all apart as never like reusing droplinks aswell as new top mounts, anti-roll bar bushes, both wishbone bushes. On both sides. If it still knocks then I'll probably drive it into the nearest wall!
 
Right been up since god knows what hour and changed anti roll bar bushes, droplinks, had new bushes pressed onto wishbones, checked dampers, changed the top mounts, used all brand new bolts with nylon threads all torqued up correctly on BOTH sides of the car.

And....

It still knocks :(

I've noticed it will knock it if the car is on the ground not jacked up and I grab the wheel as hard as I can and try and shake it, doesn't do it when jacked up. There is no play in the wheel bearing.

WTF is it :(
 
Firestar_3x said:
Something must be bent then ?
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But how would something that is bent get gradually worse? And make a loose constant knocking rather than a single thud.

I'm thinking it must be a driveshaft/cv joint issue, can't be anything else :/
 
Now I might be clutching at straws here, but is there any chance it’s not the suspension that making the noise. It’s controversial (some might say crazy) idea I know, but I was thinking if the car is properly jacked up then shaking the wheel won’t move the body at all but when the car is on the ground it will.

Then I remembered a car (I think it might have been another Citroen) I had a look at a while back which was making a really nasty sounding, hard to locate, knocking noise that had me puzzled for a while, until eventually I realised that a cable adjuster or something had come loose and was hitting something else when the car would go over a bump or get shook, which was making the noise.

So I was wondering if maybe something was loose and doing the same thing, probably not, but I’m struggling to think of things that could be causing your trouble.
 
I'm going to go totally off the wall here and suggest looking at all your exhaust mounts, from the header bolts all the way back to the backbox hanger. Run your hand along the pipe everywherre checking for clearances between the exhaust and the chassis.
 
Right been confirmed it is the CV joint but apparantly I cannot change just the CV joint on its own, I have to replace the whole driveshaft. Is this true or are they just trying to rob me of even more money.
 
GT3 said:
Right been confirmed it is the CV joint but apparantly I cannot change just the CV joint on its own, I have to replace the whole driveshaft. Is this true or are they just trying to rob me of even more money.
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Lots of French cars have formed shafts, exchange or s/h shaft is the way to go. 205's and stuff are like that.

It's also (IMO) easier, roughly the same cost, and a lot less less grotty and labour intensive to swap the whole shaft.
 
Yep well an exchange shaft is about 70 quid and I can do it myself so looks like I will do that. Just making sure I couldnt get just the cv joint done for cheap somewhere.

Cheers Lopez
 
GT3 said:
Yep well an exchange shaft is about 70 quid and I can do it myself so looks like I will do that. Just making sure I couldnt get just the cv joint done for cheap somewhere.

Cheers Lopez
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You may be able to, but when the joint is likely to cost £20-£35 and then the labour to press it off ... exchange shaft all the way for me at least :)

You can change most driveshafts at the roadside with basic tools. Did it on that old Rover 213 ****wagon I used to have.
 
Drain gearbox oil, remove hubnut, remove caliper and tie up with wire, disconnect droplink, split balljoint, undo wishbone to strut bolts, undo topmount nuts, remove strut and driveshaft. Then do the same in reverse, that's it aint it?

Will the dodgy cv joint have caused any damage to my wheel bearing? Shall I replace this anyway just to make sure that doesn't go in the near future?
 
Not sure on your particular car, but every FWD car I've changed the CV joint shaft on it's been a simple act of:

1. Remove the big nut on the end of the shaft
2. At the bottom of the MacPherson strut are two bolts. Remove those.
3. Swing caliper/rotor/bearing assembly down and away from the car, pulling the CV shaft out of the tranny at the same time.
4. Pull shaft out of hub assembly.

Reverse process to assemble, get a front end alignment done.
 
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