Leak help

[singist]

looks like a plumber job, the PFTE tape is naff all. I've applied it several times aswell. The nylon thread looks ok though so i'm stumped. also there was no nylon washer or anything in the nut, maybe that's the cause?

Yeah, should really be a washer that the plastic thread rests against and seals the joint.

 

[AmDaMan]

ok here we go 1 last try:
It did have a washer, look at the state of it!!

I take it that groove on this pipe is where the washer should go? How does that nut actually lock on to the copper pipe though as there is no thread?

So is it just a washer job or the valve assembly? Sorry but i'm determined now!

 

[Messiah Khan]

Please excuse my supreme photoshop skills, but that should explain it. The red thing is where the nylon washer should be, although as I mentioned earlier I found a rubber o-ring to be better. As the nut(Blue) screws up the plastic pipe(pink) it forces the washer(Red) against the copper tube(green) creating the seal. Make sure though when you screw it all together, that everything is as straight as possible otherwise the tube is likely to get cross threaded.

Edit; Damn .. too late

 

[Mr Mag00]

^ very nice drawing and explaination

 

[singist]

Remove the old valve ass' and take it with you to B&Q or wherever and ask one of the nice assistants for something that will replace .......

 

[AmDaMan]

that's a very good drawing kahn but one thing the purple bit is the same diameter as green bit.

but yeah im off to b n q now with the valve brb!

 

[AmDaMan]

got a new valve and it's still leaking, the new valve was spot on too, with a proper washer so I can only assume its the crappy plastic thread. What are the options now then?

 

[Mercutio]

if you cut some of the plastic thread back and arse around with various converters (eg replace the current "straight" connector with one that goes to a larger diameter pipe then back again to correct size - will need a bit of messing to get the right bits) you can make up the space without having to get the piping spot on.

Alternatively as you've got a replacment stop valve cut the pipe back (hacksaw) and re-fit the valve a little further down (try not to move it too far) and add new pipe + screw fitting above it

Its a touch fiddley but should be solvable I wouldnt be calling a plumber yet but would have a number on hand just in case

 

[FlyingFish]

Hi I'm a plumber and can offer you a bit of advise.

First of, if the float (orange ball) has been snapped of the arm, then go buy yourself a new float valve assy, inc ball. Remove whats left of the original and pop into your local merchants for something that is close to indenticle ( same height, reach etc..).

Most bottom entry float valves are sized to a universal fit when looking underneath the cistern, the bit thats leaking in your case. Remember to put the washer in place before tightening the float valve assy to the base of the cistern. The washer goes inside the cistern! And take care with the amount of force you use, its only plastic! Oh and make sure the arm/float moves freely

Once you have the float valve fitted to your cistern its then a case of connecting the water pipe to it. By the looks of the 5th picture I would say the iso valve is shagged and you need a new one. ( a metal circlip would have been manufactured in place where that groove is), thats why you were able to remove the nut off the stem...not good. So buy a new one.

Turn the mains water off and fit the new iso valve and connect it to the float valve with a new washer...Job done. Turn the water back on and fill the cistern, then adjust your new float valve to give the correct water level inside the cistern, you'll see a mark impression inside the cistern.

I would strongly advise against shortening or chopping the plastic threaded part of any float valve, as you would have to do a very good job of creating a perfectly flat sealing face. If you have to wrap the thing in pufter tape to stop it leaking then you are botching it! Pufter tape is for taper/interferance fit joints. Its much easier and less time consuming to alter the length of the copper pipe to meet the plastic thread than messing with the plastic.

Have fun
Mick

Excuse my paint skills but I've slightly edited Kahns image, this is what your original iso valve connection looked like:

 

["andy"]

P.S.
I'm not sure, but going by the pic i'd be tempted to say that the stop valve is cross-threaded where it's connected to the plastic pipe (it looks at an odd angle to me).

thats what id say too .

 

[AmDaMan]

cheers for the help everyone finally did it. It was indeed the plastic thread of the inlet to the cistern that was at fault. Also used a new shiney valve and a new ball valve assembly! Ha ha i've basically rebuilt the toilet, I also use rubber o seals as suggested instead of the fibre ones!

It's spot on and looks much neater too!

Thanks again!