Mini Me !

Soldato
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I had to have it running today no matter what. No other way to order the shopping for mum. I came back at it today. Fixed the RGB, tidied the wiring up and have that nearly finished and etc.

I've also realised what was "wrong" with this GPU. The memory is factory overclocked. Hence why when I removed that overclock by underclocking the memory it was OK on air in UE. The thing is it was 100% temp related. I could literally watch the VRAM temps and say "here come the orbs !". Obviously that isn't a problem any more. Not with temps like these. It's also running like a bat out of hell now.

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Last time I was here I cut some graphics for the left side panel.

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Nothing OTT. And today I made the cover plate for the right side that hides all of the cabling.

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Soldato
OP
Joined
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I have now fixed the loop. It needs possibly one more thing, will explain at the end.

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No more leaning tower of Bitspower. I wish you'd come up with that before I started lol would have made a brilliant name for the build :D

Aura Sync = fail. Yesterday the CPU block started flickering. I thought the LEDs were dead. Turns out that the controller simply cannot handle all of the RGBees. The res started doing it next. So I have gone back to the controller and just found a few modes I like.

But yeah, between that and Icue not doing what it should either I've lost a lot of hair. Really annoying crap. So now I have red with a white rotational flash. Looks awesome.

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Only took about 30 photos to get the timing right lol. The fix btw was this.

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I've ordered a Barrow one in chrome just like it but I already had that. In the loop. When I began I did not have the chrome 11/8 rotary 90 I bought (there was one left) so I used the black one I already had and that T ball to do another 90. Last night I realised I could use those, so that is now done.

Which leaves one thing I need to do to the loop. Fit a flow pipe into the res, or, drill a M4 hole in it so I can fill it properly so the coolant doesn't splash and introduce bubbles. There is only one way to avoid it, and that is to use the back port (like, in the back) as the entrance. However, I would have had to cut the entire chassis apart for that. Sod that.

BTW for the Gareth out there... The G 1/4 holes are not threaded all the way through. So I can't use the flow pipe I took out of the round res I have. They have these barrel plugs that you tighten at both ends which squish a O ring and hold them in. So there's no threads inside, harumph.
 
Soldato
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Joined
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Just made and installed the new button panel. In a place that doesn't get covered with wires and USB cables. Case had no reset switch, which I wanted. Thankfully I found these in my projects box so they cost me nothing. Have braided with carbon braid and will wire them in tomorrow.

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Soldato
OP
Joined
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Posts
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OK so like I said the pump was hitting the glass. Well, the pump top. That's what these are for.

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Just one problem. They are M5. The bolts that go through them are M6. So yup, I just had to drill out 8 of them. That may sound rather easy, well good luck holding them lol. Eventually I won. I only wrecked one, but that was OK 'cause I got 10 and only needed 8.

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A much better solution than stacking silver washers in there (Seen another guy with the same issue). Antec should provide spacers really. A water cooling case needs to be very flexible and this? well it just isn't.

Et "Viola" (yes that's a deliberate typo because its my fave.)

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We soldier on.
 
Soldato
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Joined
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Posts
11,896
Location
West Sussex
OK well she's about as done as she needs to be in order to get decent pics. All of the other stuff is mainly just for my OCD.

Light on case off. Ignore the stupid RGB on the board I have turned that off in standby so many times and it just ignores that and farts rainbows.

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Light on LED on.

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Night mode. AKA full evil.

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Videos incoming shortly.
 
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