Mountain Biking

Cheers for all the input guys!

I really like the look and spec of the Bird bike but my only issue buying online is that because of my height and proportions (6'5 with shorter legs for my height) I'd need to actually sit on it to see what it's like, I take it they only deal online and have no bikes in shops or anything?

Heading through to Alpine Bikes on Sunday to have a nosey and see what they have. So far I'm torn between the Trek Roscoe and the Whyte 901/905.
 
DereksDontRun said:
aren't Bird direct sales though? So how can you get one with C2W?
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They've mentioned on their FB site they'll take C2W before. I'm sure of it.

Just searched their FB page "We do accept Halfords Cycle to work Vouchers"

So worth an email.

No they have bikes in their shop, and they do demo days at the FOD now and then.
 
VaderDSL said:
Need to replace the GXP bottom bracket on my MTB. Bike is a Scott Scale 35 73mm BB shell with an etype derailleur. Means the overall width of the shell is around 75.5mm. The old Truvativ GXP support article mentions that on 73 or 73E width you don't use spacers. However the newer SRAM GXP support guide has no such mention of 73E. I assume a 2009 GXP will be the same as a new 2018 GXP bottom bracket and will allow the cranks to seat properly?

kpcANc



I assume the lack of mentioning 73E is that etype are not that common on todays bikes.
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Weill I received the parts today, the new GXP BB is slightly different from the Truvativ one that was in before. I fitted everything and replaced the gear cables, it all works fine (was definitely a good idea having a 20 - 60nm torque wrench).
 
Tubeless, slime inner tubes or slime your own inner tubes? I've ridden miles with slime inner tubes with amazing results, all the little flats I had sealed themselves and I did about 2000 miles without having to take the wheels off.

200 miles on the new bike, puncture already. I hate punctures. I don't think slime make inner tubes that'll fit 2.8 tyres, so I've ordered some schrader valved tubes to fill with slime. Don't think they'll fit my rims though...

So should I go tubeless, tyres and rims are ready, I'd need valves, sealant, tape... patience... and still carry a spare tube.

What do you lot do?
 
bloodiedathame said:
What do you lot do?
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Tubes, I've tryed all the different methods, and I have found the old fashioned tube is the easiest most effective, I run some reasonably thick tubes and they have survived hits that have dinged rims, been a few years since my last tube flat, had nothing but issues with DIY tubeless, over numerous rim/tyre setups and have always ended up sticking a tube back in and getting on with it.

Yeah of course there are benefits to tubeless, but for me it's not enough to win me over... Yet.
 
tubeless

have not touched them (other to add some air now and then) in over a year

stans yellow tape for the rims
stans sealant

didnt have any faff to get the tyres to seal, took a few mins at most
I use this pump to get the tire bead to seat properly
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/topeak-joe-blow-mountain-pump/rp-prod74895
this is on hope rims with magic mary / hans dampf

0 problems with it so far, although it is entirely dependant on which rims, tyres, etc

Slime tubes are very heavy I think? rotational weight is bad!
If i was going tubes I wouldnt want the slime ones (or add it)
 
bloodiedathame said:
Tubeless, slime inner tubes or slime your own inner tubes? I've ridden miles with slime inner tubes with amazing results, all the little flats I had sealed themselves and I did about 2000 miles without having to take the wheels off.

200 miles on the new bike, puncture already. I hate punctures. I don't think slime make inner tubes that'll fit 2.8 tyres, so I've ordered some schrader valved tubes to fill with slime. Don't think they'll fit my rims though...

So should I go tubeless, tyres and rims are ready, I'd need valves, sealant, tape... patience... and still carry a spare tube.

What do you lot do?
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Tubeless, wouldn't go back to tubes ever I think.

Opposite of Steve45 for me. All my mates ran tubes, and on the same trail every time we went out someone would have a puncture. Though I would advise a good pump, I use one of those charger things. Gorllia tape, tubeless valves and stans. Though I've always used tubeless ready rims, a few mates bodged tubeless on older wheelsets and it was never a great success.

I've heard air **** out of my tyres a few times and then re-seal themselves.

Takes some patience setting them up but once you get the knackt it's pretty easy.

Yeah also those slime things are horrid, heavy and from my experience they just don't work.

Actually I've had one unfix-able puncture with tubeless, but my tyre blew off the rim when I crashed (or it caused me to crash) so not even a tube would have saved it. I had a tube on me, so it wasn't an issue.
 
Could never go back to tubes after being tubeless for 3 years.

I dont get the stupid ride interrupting/stopping punctures I used to.
 
another vote for tubeless - sooo pleased not to see any more snake-bite punctures. But, I agree, it's not perfect...

sure, compared to a tube it's more of a faff to setup the wheel with tape and getting a good valve-seal, but once it's holding air it's usually pretty good. But, I've had MASSIVE issues with some tyres being so well held into the rim that I've been unable to break the bead without using a flat blade and twisting between the rim and tyre, which can catch the rim-tape and cause a sealing problem when re-sealing it all. I guess the sealant makes this even worse as it marginally adheres the tyres to the rim-walls...

The only problem on a trail I've had is somehow ripping off a knob/block from a tyre which left a gaping hole for the sealant to flood out - not too much of an issue, as I can just slap a tube in and fix in 5 mins. BUT, in the rain, with wet hands and tyres, could I break the tyre's bead and remove one side of it to add a tube, could i ****. It took over 45mins and 4 of us taking turns to try and prise the tyre away from the rim and fit a tube, crazy...

I tried a few WTB tyres on my old WTB STi23 rims and they were a little bit of a pain, but Maxis Hight Roller 2 seem to be a nightmare to remove from my current E13 TRS+ rims. To replace the torn Hight Roller 2 (and for better winter grip) I swapped to 2.5 wide Mavic Claw tyres, and hopefully they're not as bad to remove.
 
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