Mountain Biking

Cleisthenes said:
It's interesting that you're familiar with Bedgebury as I took my first trip at the weekend. I saw that black entrance but stayed away as I'm still a rookie as far as trail centres go. it was good fun doing the loop of red trails there though, although I have to say that the reds there were easier than I was expecting, having never done graded trails before! Do you go often?
Click to expand...

I ride at bedgebury occasionally, but probably only a few times a year. Mainly if its been proper wet as the trails are still rideable when everywhere else is a slop fest.

It's been steadily getting more and more sanitised over the years, it's OK for a lap or 2 but there's much better options around like Covert woods, Surrey hills, Friston forest, even some local trails near to me.
 
So the front end changes in my bike made some difference to my confidence today. The Fox forks are so much more compliant over the bumps and the progressiveness is so good, currently rocking 2 spacers, could arguably drop another one in but riding off 5ft drops to flat was just shy of bottoming out so probably fine.

The shorter stem too is mega, 800mm bars with a 35mm feels excellent, much morepointy without being twitchy or nervous through root or rock sections.
 
Yeah wide is good but there's also too wide ;)

I'm not judging what your riding, its just you often see so many riders running 800mm bars and they're clearly too wide for them.
I'm about 5'9" and run 760mm on both my bikes
 
My rear wheel has developed sideways play if I wiggle it side to side, I suspect the cone nut has come loose as I had it seen to on the fly a while back by a bike shop guy who was out on his shop floor as we rode past as it was too tight. He loosened it a bit and applied lube to the internals which helped greatly. His shop is closed up now though so wanted to give it a go myself. I don't think I need to take the cassette off to do this but do need a cone nut wrench just can't seem to find what the correct size I need, is there a standard like 15mm or something?

I also knocked my derailleur on a ride and the limit screws need to be re-adjusted again I think as the big sprocket is reached with 1 more position to go on the shifter and the chain is noisy on the rear mech as a result of misalignment. What a faff. I might order the new SRAM b screw adjuster tool as well as the new version makes setting this much easier, may as well check everything out?

In other bad news one of my RaceFace grips has a failed clamp even though both were done up correctly so Amazon are going to do a full refund and I'll be looking elsewhere. The DMR Death grips look cool so might go for those.
 
mrk said:
My rear wheel has developed sideways play if I wiggle it side to side, I suspect the cone nut has come loose as I had it seen to on the fly a while back by a bike shop guy who was out on his shop floor as we rode past as it was too tight. He loosened it a bit and applied lube to the internals which helped greatly. His shop is closed up now though so wanted to give it a go myself. I don't think I need to take the cassette off to do this but do need a cone nut wrench just can't seem to find what the correct size I need, is there a standard like 15mm or something?

I also knocked my derailleur on a ride and the limit screws need to be re-adjusted again I think as the big sprocket is reached with 1 more position to go on the shifter and the chain is noisy on the rear mech as a result of misalignment. What a faff. I might order the new SRAM b screw adjuster tool as well as the new version makes setting this much easier, may as well check everything out?

In other bad news one of my RaceFace grips has a failed clamp even though both were done up correctly so Amazon are going to do a full refund and I'll be looking elsewhere. The DMR Death grips look cool so might go for those.
Click to expand...

Don't touch your limit screws that's your cable tension.
 
SoliD said:
Don't touch your limit screws that's your cable tension.
Click to expand...

Ah really, I've been playing with the cable tension screw (on the shifter) all day to no avail so I guess I need to manually tension it on the derailleur end. I've read of many reports from people knocking their NX derailleur and it going off whack but hopefully mine isn't as severe.
 
Interesting, haven't even glanced at the dropout so will inspect that during the week when I finally have a moment to bring the bike indoors and occupy the dining room once again with bike stuff :D
 
steve45 said:
Had my first ride out on the clash this evening. I ran out of patience yesterday afternoon, and just went at the build, had most parts required to get it up and running.
Bit of a temporary setup as I've struggled to find the forks I want at a reasonable price, so running a borrowed 160mm 29 fork/front wheel. Was a bit dubious about running mullet, but current setup will likely keep it in the same ballpark as a 27.5 at 180mm when I pick one up in the next few weeks. Part of me secretly actually likes the mullet, but I dunno, I've been down that road before back in the early 00's and that didnt last long back then. we'll see..
Still a lot of work to do on spec, this was literally thrown together with spares, a few parts ordered and a couple of borrowed bits. Priority is the forks for now so I can return the Lyrics to my mate.
1anU2M3l.jpg
90b3CuKl.jpg
Feels SOOOOOO good to get my leg back over a full sus. Once I sorted out the suspension settings and pressures I felt instantly comfortable with the bike, straight in at mach 5 over the steep and tech, bike didnt miss a beat nor thankfully did my riding.
Click to expand...

Looks awesome! What forks you going for? 38s?
 
Ideally, if I can find a set at a reasonable price. But I would be just as happy with a set of 36's in 180mm, may even consider Zebs, we'll see. I'll be ordering this week so should hopefully get them for the bank holiday weekend!
 
Ok so inspected the rear wheel today after taking it off and the cone nuts both ends are loose resulting in the sideways play. The lockring removal tool has not arrived yet so can't get the cassette off until Amazon drops my packages off today but I suspect knowing this that what has happened is that the nuts have slowly worked loose over previous rides and the axle/hub position has moved resulting in weirdness with the gearing as well as dirt entering the bearings because if I hand tighten the cone nuts the play goes away but when spinning the wheel can feel all the dirt grinding the bearings so they're pretty much toast I'd say having ridden quite heavily the last few weeks in a lot of dry dust and sandy areas.

I checked the dropout too which looks fine:

AywEG0U.jpg

But the arm of the rear mech does touch the spokes if I try to get to the big sprocket so there is def an alignment issue in part related to the hub bits mentioned above.

My rear wheel needs an obvious truing as well!

At this stage I'm tired of the faff and phoned Southsea Cycles who I know offer a full service option which is comprehensive and parts are included so will get this all seen to in one swoop next week.
 
Get the rear hub serviced and your gears looked at.

If it's loose ball bearings you'll never get it perfect if you have pitting on the cone or race of the hub.

Has this issue on a cube nuroad a few days ago, had to remove rotor and cassette, both lock nuts and wind the two comes loose as they had tightened and locked the wheel.

Even with play I'd argue the mech shouldn't hit the spokes. Worth getting that looked at once the wheel has no play and is true. 12 speed is really precise and allows zero room for error tbh.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom