Mountain Biking

:D

Once you've done a few, tubeless becomes easy. Some tyres will seat with some frantic pumping with a pump, if they don't an extra layer of tape or 2 normally fos the job to make a tighter seal. I run rimpact inserts on my bikes which makes them easier to seat, but I do use a Beto air tank - inflate that to 120psi and they seat first time, every time!
These are things you failed to mention before! :D
 
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Yeah I echo TallPaul, but even still I done new gravel tires last week and I had to take a break from the rage. I've got a pump/cannister in one thing, and it's worth it's price. Water + soap around the bead helps endlessly too, and putting the tyre on properly (i.e pushing the bead into the rim from one side, rather than just squeezing it on). It's worth it so you can run 12psi without punctures though :D
 
What's the lowest pressure you guys would go for mixed cross country riding? I have watched many videos where riders say they are running 24psi for example which to me sounds reasonable for off road grip but how does lower pressures fairs for when you're on the road riding to the trails etc? I don't have the energy to faff with trying different pressures at the moment so having a good idea of what to pump to would be ideal starting point!
 
What's the lowest pressure you guys would go for mixed cross country riding? I have watched many videos where riders say they are running 24psi for example which to me sounds reasonable for off road grip but how does lower pressures fairs for when you're on the road riding to the trails etc? I don't have the energy to faff with trying different pressures at the moment so having a good idea of what to pump to would be ideal starting point!


Too many variables to give a proper answer. Stick with one pressure and work down/up from there really. Some days I run 20psi, other days I'll run 15. Weight, terrain, bike, body position are all factors that will change what you need. Unless your losing grip all over the place/burbing tyres/getting loads of flats, stick with what your running and think about body position etc if your losing grip rather than making a change to the bike. Then work up/down.
 
What's the lowest pressure you guys would go for mixed cross country riding? I have watched many videos where riders say they are running 24psi for example which to me sounds reasonable for off road grip but how does lower pressures fairs for when you're on the road riding to the trails etc? I don't have the energy to faff with trying different pressures at the moment so having a good idea of what to pump to would be ideal starting point!
Bigger the tyre, the lower the pressure. Running inserts will allow slightly lower pressures too.

24psi is a good starting point, you can probably drop a few psi from that - you'll notice that once you have a good psi that you'll notice a difference even if it's 2psi more or less than normal.

I run 18psi in my front 2.6 tyre with an insert, and around 22 rear on a 2.35/2.4. Probably will run 20psi front/22psi rear on my hardtail with inserts.
 
Ah ok, I have not checked what they're at since letting some air out yesterday but I'd estimate around 30 maybe a bit less so I think I will keep that as is and adjust if needed after a few more rides. I found the loose forest surfaces especially with wood chips, leaves and stuff with the higher psi was nearly washing out but once I let out a few psi it seemed fine. They're quite thin tyres compared to others at 2.25, my mate has 2.6 wide tyres (not tubeless) and runs 30psi with plenty of grip on the same bits so I guess I just needed to maximise the contact patch. I'll keep at it, much more fun riding the same woodland areas now being able to ride at much higher speeds than before :D
 
So I may have snagged some 2018 Fox Float 32 forks second hand at a rather silly price due to the advert being terribly written. Spoke to the seller, asked plenty of questions and they were very forthcoming with info, photos etc so seems legit, got myself a service kit ordered too for good practice. Might be a hell of an upgrade from a set of Suntour XCRs for a bargain price, fingers crossed!

Unfortunately not a Factory though, so no shiny Kashima to oogle :p

Downside is it's also cost me a new front wheel, QR currently to 15x110 so, for the sake of the cost of a decent hub and the time to rebuild, I just bought myself a new front rim and will transfer the tyre straight over.

Also may need a new stem, the stack height on the current one may be a touch long as the steerer is cut shorter than ideal, but I've found both the Funn Funnduro (30mm stack) or DMR Defy (27mm stack) if needed to replace the current unbranded one at 45mm. Also have 18mm of spacers on currently to suit the stock steerer length.
 
Pics of those forks? Fox is the dream but they're often very £££ :D

I recently discovered the preload adjuster ring on the crank was broken. The screw that keeps it tight has a torque of 0.5Nm so I would not have over-tightened it but appeared a chunk had broken off perhaps from a rock hitting it or something. Anyway ordered a new ring online, strangely could only find it in stock through a German bike retailer so it arrived last night and I could see it's fully plastic so no wonder the old one broke, wouldn't take a fast rock either over consecutive rides! It's a standard Eagle crank preload ring too so not like only the NX one is plastic... Gonna have to keep an eye on that.

I used the opportunity to check the bottom bracket bearings too and all roll smoothly but did notice the distinct lack of grease, appeared only the factory grease out the box was still on there so some water had got to the middle of the BB tube. My local bike shop did the groupset fitting way back so looks like they didn't apply anything and they over-tightened the 8mm hex bolt on the crank too as I had to put more force into undoing it than I do when undoing my car's lug nuts and they're done up to 120Nm! Seems like bike shops are just as lazy as car garages which is a shame. I'll be doing everything myself from now on and just building up the tools as the need comes up. Not sure what grease others are using but everyone online seems to have their own choice lol with park tool being the most common/ I have a tin of this which seems to work just fine.
 
Will get some pics once they're serviced and cleaned up/fitted. Like I say, may be slower than hoped since the steerer is shorter than current, likely means running no spacers with the current stem so I'm looking at a lower stack one (and also 35mm rather than 50mm). But, I also don't want to spend unless needed so I'll hang fire until I can see how much room I have to play with.
 
Right I'm going to buy a full face again as I want to start pushing myself to learn to jump higher than a 5 year old can. I want one of these light, vented enduro types. The two main ones seem to be the troy lee stage and the fox proframe. Any others to consider? Anything I should know? I considered a detachable chinbar helmet but then I just thought I'll end up taking the chinbar off all the time and faffing around carrying it. May as well just get used to the full face style then i'll be more confident to push. It's overkill on probably 60% off the stuff I ride but I don't care what people think.

EDIT: Also what do you guys that wear full face helmets do with regard to goggles? I have to have some as I wear contacts and the wind dries my eyes out and they can literally blow out and/or move. Last time my son tried some goggles they literally misted up instantly and were a nightmare. Is there such a thing as anti fog ones like I used to get on the inside of my motor cycle helmet?
 
Right I'm going to buy a full face again as I want to start pushing myself to learn to jump higher than a 5 year old can. I want one of these light, vented enduro types. The two main ones seem to be the troy lee stage and the fox proframe. Any others to consider? Anything I should know? I considered a detachable chinbar helmet but then I just thought I'll end up taking the chinbar off all the time and faffing around carrying it. May as well just get used to the full face style then i'll be more confident to push. It's overkill on probably 60% off the stuff I ride but I don't care what people think.

EDIT: Also what do you guys that wear full face helmets do with regard to goggles? I have to have some as I wear contacts and the wind dries my eyes out and they can literally blow out and/or move. Last time my son tried some goggles they literally misted up instantly and were a nightmare. Is there such a thing as anti fog ones like I used to get on the inside of my motor cycle helmet?
I've got the proframe, I do like it, I've had it a few years now, not sure if they have updated the design in that time, does get a little warmer than an open face but much better than normal full face offerings, definitely a nice middle ground.
My mate has one as well, he uses it for all his riding.

As for goggles, most decent goggles have anti fog coatings that are reasonably effective. I've used 100% for years and never really had much trouble with misting apart from when it's really really damp and humid, and only then when I'm stationary. For these situations you do have the option of "double glazed" lenses, a little bit more expensive than standard single lenses but are very effective.
 
Goggles shouldn't steam up providing your moving. When your stopped thats another question. If your going uphill just take them off though I wouldn't want to ride uphill wearing a full face.
I have a TLD D3 with Melon goggles for my dh bike and a Fox Speedframe with Dewalt safety glasses :p for my trail bike.
 

That looks so much fun. Summer hols time my mate and I plan to venture out to the nearest bike park and start to learn properly. Hardtails only of course but that's ok :D
 
Rogate is the clsoest to me unless there's another one not heard about yet! This is some 20-30 mins away so not too far at all :cool:

I may be wrong, but isn't Rogate a DH spot? If you've never hit a trail centre before, it might be worth doing a trail centre first. But then Rogate might not be as gnarly as I have in my head.
 
I may be wrong, but isn't Rogate a DH spot? If you've never hit a trail centre before, it might be worth doing a trail centre first. But then Rogate might not be as gnarly as I have in my head.
Yeah pretty much. It's for those push a bike up hill types.... Mrk it's a steep curve from riding around gosport to that, should head to qecp first to build up to it. Plus Rogate is always busy due to limited opening so you'll probably be getting in a lot of people's way.
 
It's 3AM man get some sleep!

QECP is/has been on the regular visit list soon as the proper warm weather hits with Rogate being every so often. We can ride through to QECP but of course it will end up being a full day of riding so probably better off throwing the bikes in the back of a van or something.

Bear in mind Rogate isn't just all advanced stuff for experienced dh/trail riders - https://www.b1ke.com/b1keparks/rogate/#grades
 
I think what the guys are saying is that Bikeparks are graded a lot differently to trail centres and the like.
There is generally a big jump between the blue and red trails at a bikepark... BPW is the perfect example (as I know it, I've never ridden Rogate).
So if you haven't been riding long you may want to think about hitting up a bikepark just yet as the reds will most likely have airtime involved and decent drops.
Unless of course they have enough blues to keep you entertain for the day.

No doubt you'll have a good day just be careful and take it easy!
 
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