Mountain Biking

NightSt@lk3r said:
With the permissive roads at imber open this weekend i decided to challenge myself, nearly double the distance of what i'm used to.
imber.jpg
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Good effort. The last time I tried to cycle over Salisbury plain (website said open) there were red flags up everywhere. Decided to err on the side of caution.

I was cycling from Orcheston back to my home north of Marlborough and ended up doing loads more miles to get round the the route over the plains.

That's a lot further than my PB of 66km! Good effort.
 
Hodders said:
Any suggestions for a dry lube that doesn't turn into black gook after a ride in the *dry*?

It's just taken me ages to degrease my drivetrain after using Muc-Off dry lube.

Any suggestions?
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I like and use Tru-Tension Tungsten all weather lube, it's wax based which I find tends to keep dirt off a bit better than other lubes. It also scores quite highly in independent testing done by Zero friction cycling.
https://www.tru-tension.co.uk/product/bananaslip-tungsten-all-weather-lube/
https://zerofrictioncycling.com.au/lubetesting/

Other wax based options like SMOOVE and SQUIRT are good too.
 
MOOGLEYS said:
Bloody hell my small Shimano try and throw me over the bars if I pull too much they look huge…..lol
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100kg rider kitted up in full pads and a 25kg e-bike need some proper stopping power :cry:

In fairness I had 200mm rotors on the rear before and they were fine on all but the steepest stuff, cooked them in a day at Golfie so decided to whack bigger (and thicker) rotors on to handle the heat. Never really liked the SRAM stock brakes either so a perfect excuse to upgrade!

That, and Shimano brakes are fairly immediate in their power whereas there’s a lot more progression in these I find.
 
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Just how ******* difficult is it to sell a MTB these days? I've had mine up on Pinkbike, Facebook and Gumtree for ages and have had two people contact me across all platforms, and both of those wanted me to deliver well out of the area (not going to happen as I don't drive) and both offered a paltry sum well below what I'm asking.
 
The biking bubble has well and truly burst. Unless you are literally giving it away nobody will bat an eye. Big savings to be had on new bikes at the moment to which isn't gonna help the 2nd hand market either.
 
I''ve got this old bike https://www.mbr.co.uk/reviews/full-suspension-bikes/boardman-fs-team-650b-2015-review
Is there anypoint in upgrading bits or just putting money aside for a new one? I only really head to Grizedale or Whinlatter so nothing to difficult. I know i need to change the tires as they're currently fitted with minion dh tires.
I got a dropper post from PNW and some crankbrother pedals. Aside from that it's standard.
 
JustBen said:
I''ve got this old bike https://www.mbr.co.uk/reviews/full-suspension-bikes/boardman-fs-team-650b-2015-review
Is there anypoint in upgrading bits or just putting money aside for a new one? I only really head to Grizedale or Whinlatter so nothing to difficult. I know i need to change the tires as they're currently fitted with minion dh tires.
I got a dropper post from PNW and some crankbrother pedals. Aside from that it's standard.
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Still a decently capable bike for Grizedale and Whinlatter. When deciding to change bikes I always calculate cost per expected number of rides over a five year period. Then allow a little extra for the shiny new factor and take in the capability / condition of old bike. If the numbers don't add up, then stick with what you've got - if they do, then it's new bike day and enjoy!
 
Malevolence said:
Just how ******* difficult is it to sell a MTB these days? I've had mine up on Pinkbike, Facebook and Gumtree for ages and have had two people contact me across all platforms, and both of those wanted me to deliver well out of the area (not going to happen as I don't drive) and both offered a paltry sum well below what I'm asking.
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As per N0ddie's reply plus it's coming up to end of season, so most people will only be looking for winter hacks / true bargains / excellent condition.
 
Hodders said:
Any suggestions for a dry lube that doesn't turn into black gook after a ride in the *dry*?

It's just taken me ages to degrease my drivetrain after using Muc-Off dry lube.

Any suggestions?
Click to expand...
Ive used Muc Off dry lube and Peaty Dry lube with good results. Are you allowing the lube to dry before you ride? Ideally a dry lube should be applied to day before a ride so the carrier fluid dries :)
 
I've done one ride after putting smoove on.

Gear shifting seemed good, chain still feels slightly 'tacky' even after 2 days. Concerned that it will pick up dust and go black/grind paste like before, but we'll see.
 
I'm going to upgrade finally I think. Been running a 2008 Specialized Stumpjumper for the last decade :O
It's had all manner of upgrades to keep it going over the years and I'm still relatively quick on it compared to mates on more modern machinery. However, it's the style of frame where the seat tube goes down and exits just above the rear shock which complicates dropper post installations. I can't ride any longer without a dropper. I need one in my life.

So I've got some questions whilst I try to search out some decent ebay bargains under £1000 for a full suss trail bike. Hoping this time of year is a good time to pick up bargains for those that need to sell as the season comes to a close. I do do some low level downhill stuff (not hardcore) and need to be able to ride flat/uphill a bit as well but would prefer it to be bias to slightly more aggressive/slack for more fun on faster stuff.

1. Will I get a better deal if I can live with older 26 inch bikes?
2. Has 27.5 inch settled as the go to size now? (I don't want a 29er)
3. I've ran 1x10 setup for ages, anything worthwhile knowing about 1x11 or 1x12?
4. What are the goto brakes right now for bang per buck that work well enough and are hassle free? I've ran Shimano SLX for ages and they've been fine, but lately rear tends to need bleeding more often and the stopping power is not as good.
5. Are the reverb dropper posts still renown for leaking? Any better alternatives that are competitively priced.
6. Is 140mm enough on the front or should I be looking for 160?
 
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Went out up Grizedale today, not my best rides! Seemed to struggle with traction over the wet rocky bits.
Had my first off in years as well :( it was a tadge embarrassing as someone was a few feet behind me. There's a section where theres a bit of a small boulder before the boardwalk section, through my poor riding i didn;t get over central so came from the left onto it. Front wheel washed out to the right leaving me nearly doing the splits. To make it worse my pedal was wedged between the boardwalk pieces so i had to proper rag my bike to get it out. Person behind offered to help when i was nearly done. Least it would have made him chuckle inside.

Wasn't anywhere near a fast time around there either and i was well and truley soaked and **** up.
Got that f'd off by the time i got to the end that i'm debating selling the bike and sticking to running and road biking./
 
Just took it out for a first ride and my god the DebonAir spring is such an upgrade over the SoloAir in the Recon's, think i'll pick up the 160mm air shaft soon just to get that extra 10mm of travel and maybe in the future upgrade to the Charger damper but that costs more than i paid for the fork :eek:
 
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