There are countless good YouTube videos on fork setup. That's your best bet.
Wtf did I just quote here. Was this an old post lol.
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Mountain Biking
- Thread starter Zefan
- Start date
There are countless good YouTube videos on fork setup. That's your best bet.
Wtf did I just quote here. Was this an old post lol.
Almost ten years, he's been waiting for your reply
Haha I submitted the reply and then I was like wheretf did he even ask that!?Almost ten years, he's been waiting for your reply
Swapped out my 28T chainring to 32T. Had hoped i might avoid a new chain but it's enough of a jump to no longer get into the 44t cog on the cassette. Have a spare chain here though so will fit at some point. Also fitted some new Schwalbe G-One Allround tyres in 29x2.25
Went out at lunch and the average speed was slightly higher than it usually is. Being able to put a bit more power down on the flats was a nice bonus and whilst it could be better, i don't want to make any bigger changes. Grip wasn't fantastic, but i ramped the pressure up to 60 PSI as the bead wouldn't quite sit right. I probably need to drop that for more grip on the rough bits.
Looking forward to getting my new handlebars which will be in the next few days. Might need the bike shop for that though as unsure if the hoses/cables are long enough. Would love to think that's it sorted. However this bike was relatively cheap (Trek Marlin 7 Gen 2) at around £500 as it was only meant to be an off road fun bike for the occasional ride. If i'm going to use it as a proper gravel/endurance event bike i'm now considering a carbon wheelset and maybe even a carbon frame. I'm getting to the point i might as well just get a new bike!
Went out at lunch and the average speed was slightly higher than it usually is. Being able to put a bit more power down on the flats was a nice bonus and whilst it could be better, i don't want to make any bigger changes. Grip wasn't fantastic, but i ramped the pressure up to 60 PSI as the bead wouldn't quite sit right. I probably need to drop that for more grip on the rough bits.
Looking forward to getting my new handlebars which will be in the next few days. Might need the bike shop for that though as unsure if the hoses/cables are long enough. Would love to think that's it sorted. However this bike was relatively cheap (Trek Marlin 7 Gen 2) at around £500 as it was only meant to be an off road fun bike for the occasional ride. If i'm going to use it as a proper gravel/endurance event bike i'm now considering a carbon wheelset and maybe even a carbon frame. I'm getting to the point i might as well just get a new bike!
Soldato
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Even with trail/XC you'll have plenty of times when a dropper is a serious advantage. The seat on my trail bike is pretty high so I get the max benefit when climbing, which means the saddle/junk clearance is dangerously low for any whizzy descents. Dropper solves that. I've got 'cheapo' BrandX droppers on both my trail and my enduro. Never had an issue with them and they're dead easy to service when they get a bit stiff.
I wouldn't ride another bike without a dropper.
MTB have high ground clearance so the seat is already super high off the floor.
my seats 3.6ft/43inches above the floor (ground clearance+ my leg slightly bent at the downstroke)
It would be annoying as hell getting on and off the bike all the time without being able to easily lower the seat.
cable dropper seem a bit annoying though, if I leave by bike sitting for a couple of months when I go to use it the cable will slip out the lever and I need to tension it properly again. (might be an ebike thing maybe my battery pinches the cable a bit or it takes a weird route over the motor
definitely considering a wireless one for the future.
MTB have high ground clearance so the seat is already super high off the floor.
my seats 3.6ft/43inches above the floor (ground clearance+ my leg slightly bent at the downstroke)
It would be annoying as hell getting on and off the bike all the time without being able to easily lower the seat.
cable dropper seem a bit annoying though, if I leave by bike sitting for a couple of months when I go to use it the cable will slip out the lever and I need to tension it properly again. (might be an ebike thing maybe my battery pinches the cable a bit or it takes a weird route over the motor
definitely considering a wireless one for the future.
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Soldato
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Swapped the cranks and BB out today and added some fresh pink piston covers to the Maguras. All in all it looks pretty tidy.
Cranks are 160mm which is 15mm shorter than the SLX that were on before and causing a lot of pedal smashes so this should help out nicely for that.
It’s good practice to swap the BB out even though it was pretty much new and seen about 50miles at best I’ve gone from BSA to DUB as again it will be unifying both bikes keeping maintenance costs to a minimum as I only need one spare of each consumable part such as pads, rotors, chains, BBs and headsets.
Winter wheels have come off, the hub needs a rebuild and I’ve not got the spare bearings. I’m sure the current set of Butchers will still do the trick.
Cranks are 160mm which is 15mm shorter than the SLX that were on before and causing a lot of pedal smashes so this should help out nicely for that.
It’s good practice to swap the BB out even though it was pretty much new and seen about 50miles at best I’ve gone from BSA to DUB as again it will be unifying both bikes keeping maintenance costs to a minimum as I only need one spare of each consumable part such as pads, rotors, chains, BBs and headsets.
Winter wheels have come off, the hub needs a rebuild and I’ve not got the spare bearings. I’m sure the current set of Butchers will still do the trick.
After doing a few uplift days with the Ebike decided to buy a non electric steed. Ebike is also in the shop having pretty much everything electric replaced under warranty.
Got what i think was a great deal on a Merida 160 6000. Ex demo frame but new kit.
Took it to FOD for an uplift session and to tune it with a couple of cracking people i met on a FB biking group. Not feeling the RS suspension. The zebs are the cheaper select version and the shock has nothing other than LSR you can change. Im blowing through all of the travel on what i would consider small drops.
I'm taking it to Dyfi in a couple of weeks. Need to decide what to do with the rear shock before then. Gonna fit my Factory 38s to the front.
Got what i think was a great deal on a Merida 160 6000. Ex demo frame but new kit.
Took it to FOD for an uplift session and to tune it with a couple of cracking people i met on a FB biking group. Not feeling the RS suspension. The zebs are the cheaper select version and the shock has nothing other than LSR you can change. Im blowing through all of the travel on what i would consider small drops.
I'm taking it to Dyfi in a couple of weeks. Need to decide what to do with the rear shock before then. Gonna fit my Factory 38s to the front.
Soldato
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I run around 15% higher than what RS recommend on the Zeb and it works a treat. Is it just a standard RC 2 in that shock?After doing a few uplift days with the Ebike decided to buy a non electric steed. Ebike is also in the shop having pretty much everything electric replaced under warranty.
Got what i think was a great deal on a Merida 160 6000. Ex demo frame but new kit.
Took it to FOD for an uplift session and to tune it with a couple of cracking people i met on a FB biking group. Not feeling the RS suspension. The zebs are the cheaper select version and the shock has nothing other than LSR you can change. Im blowing through all of the travel on what i would consider small drops.
I'm taking it to Dyfi in a couple of weeks. Need to decide what to do with the rear shock before then. Gonna fit my Factory 38s to the front.
The Zebs were ok, but as they are the select version couldn't play with them much. I wasn't blowing through the travel on them.
Not sure what's in the shock. Its a super deluxe Select + C1 version without any compression adjustment. I found it really hard to get the hang of. I was blowing through travel on drops. Having to change the rebound speed depending on what i was doing especially on jumps. It felt like it was pushing me forward. Maybe im just not used to it. Or im just to used to the ebike setup.
Regardless it was great fun. Once i got over the drag feeling of not having a motor I found it much much quicker to go fast on the descents.
Not sure what's in the shock. Its a super deluxe Select + C1 version without any compression adjustment. I found it really hard to get the hang of. I was blowing through travel on drops. Having to change the rebound speed depending on what i was doing especially on jumps. It felt like it was pushing me forward. Maybe im just not used to it. Or im just to used to the ebike setup.
Regardless it was great fun. Once i got over the drag feeling of not having a motor I found it much much quicker to go fast on the descents.
Soldato
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Ah! That makes more sense, the frame is “similar” in design to my own and I had that issue at times with the Float X2 however it was exasperated further by the shirt chain stay and mullet set up. I swapped out to the DHX2 Factory coil in the end which resolved that.
The Select and standard Float from Fox are great until you use the GripX2 by fox or the RC 3.1 found in the RS ultimates and realise they are as you said, somewhat limited.
sag is set correctly as is pressure. Tried setting it higher and it was not pleasant. Not being able to control compression at all means I have no control other than to put more air in.
Have fitted my fox 38's to the bike already. Ordered a 24 float X2 to try. Going back to FOD on Monday to do the same stuff to test it out.
I want to get it comfortable and have confidence in it before I attempt Dyfi.
Have fitted my fox 38's to the bike already. Ordered a 24 float X2 to try. Going back to FOD on Monday to do the same stuff to test it out.
I want to get it comfortable and have confidence in it before I attempt Dyfi.
Soldato
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My hose blew out of my lever today emptying fluid all over.
As you can see, the collet and needle are still inside.. weird.
I’ve now cut down the hose, fitted new collet and needle, put it all back together and done 4 bleeds without success.
I have zero air bubbles (from what I can see) a nice firm lever BUT zero power when braking to the point I can push the bike through the fully pressed lever action.
Thinking I may have contaminated my rotor and pads I’ve stripped it back, soaked the rotor in brake cleaner and put new EBC blues on the bike. Bled again, perfect feeling lever yet again and then I’ve tried to bed in and again, zero power.
Master cylinder failure maybe or am I missing something ?
Answers on a post card…
As you can see, the collet and needle are still inside.. weird.
I’ve now cut down the hose, fitted new collet and needle, put it all back together and done 4 bleeds without success.
I have zero air bubbles (from what I can see) a nice firm lever BUT zero power when braking to the point I can push the bike through the fully pressed lever action.
Thinking I may have contaminated my rotor and pads I’ve stripped it back, soaked the rotor in brake cleaner and put new EBC blues on the bike. Bled again, perfect feeling lever yet again and then I’ve tried to bed in and again, zero power.
Master cylinder failure maybe or am I missing something ?
Answers on a post card…
Soldato
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Pistons all move, Barb and collet from the box the brakes shipped in from Magura.
Hose is all good, brakes have about 30 miles on them, that’s it.
I had a problem with one of my MT7 pro levers so went shigura setup. Seems very marmite. Some people moan at me how its unsupported shouldn't mix etc. I love the way it feels.
only other thing would be to try the other lever on that hose/calliper to eliminate anything else other than the lever.
There are 2 types of magura barbs and olives that i have, i guess if there in the box should be the correct ones.
only other thing would be to try the other lever on that hose/calliper to eliminate anything else other than the lever.
There are 2 types of magura barbs and olives that i have, i guess if there in the box should be the correct ones.
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Soldato
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I’ve had no issues with the MT7 pro or my MT7 Pro HC3. I’ve jammed an MT7 Pro HC lever on the bike in the interim and it’s working. Th brakes feel rubbish though without power but could just need bedding in again as pads are fresh and the rotors had a bath. I’ll be sending the old lever back to magura, see if they can make sense of it.
My hose blew out of my lever today emptying fluid all over.
As you can see, the collet and needle are still inside.. weird.
I’ve now cut down the hose, fitted new collet and needle, put it all back together and done 4 bleeds without success.
I have zero air bubbles (from what I can see) a nice firm lever BUT zero power when braking to the point I can push the bike through the fully pressed lever action.
Thinking I may have contaminated my rotor and pads I’ve stripped it back, soaked the rotor in brake cleaner and put new EBC blues on the bike. Bled again, perfect feeling lever yet again and then I’ve tried to bed in and again, zero power.
Master cylinder failure maybe or am I missing something ?
Answers on a post card…
When rotors get contaminated brake cleaner won't always do the job sadly.
I've tried boiling mine before, it was definitely better. But the only option was new discs and then new pads (if your discs are bad enough your new pads might also be contaminated again).