Moving a radiator to a different wall

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Caporegime
Joined
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Warwickshire
Hi all

For reasons that probably aren't important, I want to move a radiator from one wall to another, as follows:

IYsyPHc.jpg


The plasterer is in on Thursday so the carpet and underlay will be gone to leave only a suspended floor with relatively easy access to the ventilation gap underneath for pipework.

My intention is to flush the system (combi) and add inhibitor etc. in the process, but I have a few questions about this job.

1. Is this something I should be attempting as a moderately competent DIY plumber, or should I just get someone in?
2. If the latter, how much should I expect to pay?
3. What's the neatest way to run white pipe up to the rad? Currently they're just painted copper, but how do I make the neatest and best-looking connection from the copper under the floorboards to the radiator? Can you get white copper pipe to make the final connection?! or should I just use white plastic for the whole pipe run?
4. Most reliable way to terminate the old pipes? Cuprofit-style push fit copper end stop acceptable?
5. Any other thoughts or tips most welcome!

Cheers.
 
Don't use plastic for the final connection, it'll look terrible. I've replaced all the radiators in my house, and the final fun out of the wall/floor has been in chrome plated copper.

I generally do most of my own basic plumbing, and use solder ring most of the time, its fairly easy to get to grips with if you're reasonably competent. Initial outlay for a decent torch/flux/etc is more, but the fittings are much cheaper in the long run.
 
In very basic terms, turn boiler off, lift carpet and floor boards, chop the two pipes under the floor, let the system drain. Mount the rad where you want it, fasten the rad valve and trv, drill straight down through the floor below from the valves, fit several inches of 15mm copper pipe to reach below under the floorboards. Then use speed fit, 2 elbows and two straights to join up the new pipes to the existing two.
Sorry for basic instructions, only on my mobile at mo :)

Just read post above, if you use chrome plated pipe then sand off the chrome finish before inserting into a plastic fitting. The grab rings inside plastic fittings cannot hold onto the slippy surface of chrome... Just try it, you can pull a plastic fitting off chrome pipe very easily!!
 
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Cheers guys. I don't want chrome, I want white to blend in and match the radiator, I want it to look subtle and not too bling (I'm a fuddy-duddy :D). Can live with chrome in the bathroom, but not the living room.

FlyingFish, thank you for that - so does speedfit play nicely with copper pipe? How do you make the copper pipe to the rad look nice...paint, or white sleeving?

Just to be clear, are you saying do this:

LK0PWaX.jpg


?
 
Yes, looks about right, :) you can either paint the copper pipe or use the plastic tubes, it's personal choice. Either way don't skimp on the inhibitor, doesn't matter whether it's branded or not, overdose rather than underdose!
 
Oh and plastic pipe plays well with copper pipe :) just do your cuts cleanly, and clean the old copper pipe with fine sand paper or emery cloth if you have it. If you don't have a proper pair of plastic pipe cutters then use a new Stanley blade in a knife and make the cut clean. Also don't scratch or rag the plastic pipe around under the floor, the ends need to be undamaged when you insert them into the fittings.

Mick

Edit: and don't forget the plastic inserts for the ends of the pipe.
 
Thanks for the tips all.

I actually just got a quote from Rated People for the job...£185, which definitely makes me want to have a crack myself. I'm not saying the quote is ridiculous, but it seems rather a lot for three hours work considering we're getting the whole room repaired and re-plastered for £500, and the only materials included within the price are some pipe.
 
Drain the system before cutting the pipes. Ideally you'll have an external drain but I wouldn't want all that water under the house.

Plastic pipes are easy. Use compression or plastic fittings and take to opportunity to insulate all the pipes under there while the boards are up.
 
speedfit are good to use,i never messed with plumbing myself and used it to plumb a washing machine in as existing pipes were too short

they fit great to existing copper pipes aswell

have a go yourself,i would,just call a plumber if it turns into niagra falls haha
 
Simon said:
Drain the system before cutting the pipes. Ideally you'll have an external drain but I wouldn't want all that water under the house.

Plastic pipes are easy. Use compression or plastic fittings and take to opportunity to insulate all the pipes under there while the boards are up.
Click to expand...

The drain is at the bottom of the combi, which is in the utility room, so I'll just drain it through the utility room sink.

Insulating the pipes is a good call.

wazza300 said:
speedfit are good to use,i never messed with plumbing myself and used it to plumb a washing machine in as existing pipes were too short

they fit great to existing copper pipes aswell

have a go yourself,i would,just call a plumber if it turns into niagra falls haha
Click to expand...

I've used pushfit plastic before and it's child's play, it's only the inaccessibility of the pipes after that carpet's down that makes me think twice about doing it myself. That and actually finding the flipping time to do it :D.
 
Whats wrong with compression fittings under the floor? Most taps built into walls use compression fittings, so do showers. Both very hard to get access to once installed
 
Simon said:
Whats wrong with compression fittings under the floor? Most taps built into walls use compression fittings, so do showers. Both very hard to get access to once installed
Click to expand...


And that's the issue right there, it's not a great idea to have mechanical joints in inaccessible places. Due to the fact there is more potential for them to leak, due to the design of the fitting. If the fitting was being used for gas instead, regulations state that you cannot have a mechanical joint buried or inaccessible so you cannot inspect/test/maintain the fitting.

Soldered is permanent, and pushfit allows for movement and play by design without compromising the fittings ability to hold water.
 
Plastic pipes also allow for movement.

Unfortunatly most shows dont give enough room for a plastic push fit and obviously you cant solder to plastic.

Not sure how you can use anything other than a compression olive on a tap manifold?
 
Shower fittings I fit have compression fittings on the external sides and threaded male/female unions for any that is buried. These are semi permanent and because of the limited moved in a shower this is fine. A floor can have heavy traffic which will invariably cause distruption to any compression jonts.

Just ask the question would you really want any point in your plumbing under a floor to have a weak point and potential for a leak? I certainly wouldn't.
 
Hi, I've just had an extension built and in the new part the radiators were plumbed in using white plastic under the floorboard but they clipped the pipe to the wall in the centre of the where the rad would be going and left the pipe hanging out of those metal boxes used for sockets etc. Whole rooms plastered afterwards leaving the pipes centred behind the radiators, no unsightly pipes from the floor, the pipe runs from the box to the valves behind the rad. Just a thought if you're plastering anyway.

Oh and as a bonus the rads are easy to lift off the wall and rest on a box for decorating

Sorry if I've not described too well I'll see if I can get a pic up.
 
Before, in the back right. This is a downstairs pic so the pipes run down the wall and break out lower down but the upstairs is just the reverse.



Radiator fitted no pipes showing and easier to lay flooring etc :)

 
Nedved11 said:
Shower fittings I fit have compression fittings on the external sides and threaded male/female unions for any that is buried. These are semi permanent and because of the limited moved in a shower this is fine. A floor can have heavy traffic which will invariably cause distruption to any compression jonts.

Just ask the question would you really want any point in your plumbing under a floor to have a weak point and potential for a leak? I certainly wouldn't.
Click to expand...

Yup - no compression fittings. I soldered my pipe extensions and underfloor heating loop.
 
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