MSI GD65 Z68 (G3) Quick Auto Voltage OC Guide and Reference

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Hi all, thought I would write a quick guide on my settings for the MSI Z68 GD65 (G3) and it's UEFI BIOS ;)


Remember your mileage may vary...

Useful Links
Official MSI GD65 Z68 (G3) Downloads
MSI User Forums

Why would you want to overclock with the CPU voltage set to auto?
Well it seems that to get the power saving features to work properly you need to keep the CPU Core Voltage set to auto.
When the CPU voltage is set manually, the multiplier will drop but the volts remain at the manually set level. So if you would like to have the voltage at <1.0 on idle but still have a nice OC when you load the CPU then this could be a good route to take.

This method will use EIST (Enhanced Intel Speedstep Technology) and Intel Turbo Boost to overclock your CPU.

Load up the BIOS and navigate to the "Overclocking settings" tab on the left.

Here you should see the first page of the overclocking settings.



CPU Base Frequency [10kHz] 10000

Adjust CPU Ratio [34]
Note I have left this at 34 as we will be using the Intel Turbo Boost to get the overclock.

Adjust CPU ratio in OS [Disabled]

Internal PLL Overvoltage [Disabled]
Originally I had this set to enabled, however at my 24/7 OC @4.5 mine is stable when disabled. I have read when enabled it can cause problems when using Sleep.

EIST [Enabled]
We need this enabled to allow the Turbo Boost to work.

Intel Turbo Boost [Enabled]
The limit of the Turbo Boost will be set later on in the "CPU Features" section.

DRAM Frequency [DDR3-1600Mhz]
Set this to the required speed of your own RAM.

Extreme Memory Profile(XMP) [Disabled]
I have mine disabled but you can enable if you like just remember to manually set the DRAM Voltage.

DRAM Timing Mode [Link]
Using this option will allow you to set the Advanced DRAM Configuration.

Advanced DRAM Configuration
In here you can configure your memory timings, I have set the first five manually according to my RAM specifications from G Skill.



Spread Spectrum [Disabled]

VDroop Control [Low VDroop]
Set this to Low VDroop to help limit any fluctuation in voltage when the system is under load.

CPU Core Voltage [Auto]
Left on Auto to allow the power saving features to function.

CPU I/O Voltage [Auto]

DRAM Voltage [1.507 V]
Set manually as the motherboard tends to set the volts below the recommended for my RAM.

Onto the second page of the "Overclocking Settings"



GPU Voltage [Auto]

System Agent Voltage(SA) [Auto]

CPU PLL Voltage [1.800000 V]
Set manually just to prevent it from being set to high by the MB.

DDR_VREF_CA_A [Auto]
DDR_VREF_CA_B [Auto]
DDR_VREF_DA_A [Auto]
DDR_VREF_DA_B [Auto]
PCH 1.05 [Auto]

Next navigate into the "CPU Features" section.



Hyper-threading [Enabled]

Active Processor Cores [All]

Limit CPUID Maximum [Disabled]

Execute Disable Bit [Enabled]

Intel Virtualization Tech [Enabled]

Power technology [Custom]

C1E Support [Disabled]
Possibly better performance than using C-State (needs confirmation) can also be used in conjunction with C-States

OverSpeed Protection [Disabled]

Intel C-State [Enabled]
Lower vcore on idle than C1E

Intel C-State limit [C2]
Originally set to Auto, but changed to C2 to enhance performance.

Long duration power limit(W) 200

Long duration maintained(ms) 1000

Short duration power limit(W) 250

Primary plane turbo power limit(W) 0

Secondary plane turbo power limit(W) 0

Now comes the interesting bit... the following will give the Intel Turbo Boost the limits of the Overclock. You may need to start lower down, say from 42-45 and see if your PC will load into Windows and is stable.
I started from 45 and found out I can go to 48 which is obviously 4.8GHz.
At 48 I can load Windows, can do 10 passes of very high with IBT, and is Prime stable for 6 hours. That's as much stability testing as I have done so far.
At 49 I can load Windows but as soon as any real load goes on the CPU it will bluescreen.


1-Core ratio Limit 48
2-Core ratio Limit 48
3-Core ratio Limit 48
4-Core ratio Limit 48


Next onto the Power settings under the "Energy Saving" tab.



EUP 2013 [Disabled]
CPU Phase Control [Intel SVID Mode]
Motherboard LED Control [Auto]
C1E support [Disabled]
Intel C-state [Enabled]
Package C State limit [C2]

And that's it just go to the "Mainboard settings" Tab save settings and reboot.

Once you are in Windows the power saving features should be enabled, giving you lower clocks and volts when you don't need them,



And a nice OC when you do :)

 
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Thanks, I haven't had the board long, so there might be better ways of doing thing's but it's a start.
To take screen shots in the BIOS which is a cool feature I think, just plug in a USB key and press F12 and they get saved on the key ;)

47's quite good for a 2500k at least on auto, nice job.
 
Newb when it comes to Overclocking so thought I'd ask you as I have the same board.

I've upped the multiplyer to 42.... And just that... It it works.. But I'm getting temps of 72 degrees on an anted 920 when running prime95. Is there anything else I should be Changing too?

Also...Anything above 42 gives me a bsod... Is there a reason why or setting I need to change.

It does seem a bit too hot for 42, personally I would try reseating the cooler with a new application of TIM. Like Broken Hope said check how much voltage is being put through on load.
From what I've read most people seem to get between 44-47 with auto voltage, so unless you were really unlucky with the CPU maybe it's something else that's causing the bsod, what BIOS version are you running?
 
I guess it depends on how many volts are running on the core, and what you are comfortable with. At 4.8 on auto I get 1.392 in CPUz so in the BIOS its probably 1.4 and close to the maximum you should have. TBH I will probably run my 2600k at 4.5 24/7 which uses 1.352 when running prime95.
I can use less if I manually overclock, but then I lose the power saving features so it's just depends on your preference. Your CPU might need a bit more or less so make sure to check for your self.
 
Lower volts should mean lower temps, it could just be that your CPU requires those volts for that speed as no chip is the same. try and find out what temps others are getting with the same cooler to give an idea of how yours is performing.
As Michael says 1.384 is the recommended limit for the 2500k so ideally stay under that, but the lower the better, and consider how much a couple of hundred MHz is really worth.
 
That's a shame, maybe load "optimised defaults" from the save menu (this will reset hard drive config to IDE as well) and test for stability to see if you have a problem at stock settings. Then if all good start again going up slowly one multiplier at a time, testing each one.
Also it might be an idea to run memtest86 on your RAM.
 
I'm not sure of the reason, but it happens on all motherboards as far as I'm aware. If you want to play it safe choose the BIOS voltage as the limit, being the higher one. Or get hold of a multimeter and use the supplied voltage terminals to calibrate which reading is correct.
 
Thanks for adding your info, it's good to have ;)
Yea the 99.8 bug is a little annoying, hopefully they will get this fixed. MSI have been releasing a quite few beta bios recently, which is nice to see the latest is n45 I think, but no fix yet.
 
Nice work, I'll add some IBT volts for my 2600k, it seems to require similar to your old 2500k.

2600k batch# 3129B464
4.8 = 1.392 load (IBT) 0.968v idle (Auto CPU Voltage)
4.6 = 1.360v load (IBT) 0.968v idle (Auto CPU Voltage)
4.5 = 1.352v load (IBT) 0.968v idle (Auto CPU Voltage)

I noticed that if I use C-Step and C2 I can get slightly less idle voltage than using C1E, but I think C1E is supposed to be better for performance, is that right?

Edit; just for fun I did a quick pi run last night at x52 :D

pi1m.jpg
 
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I can get into Windows @4.9 but as soon as apply any real load on the CPU it will Bluescreen, this is with auto voltage.

My VID @4.8 is 1.4111 when 100% IBT again that's on auto V.
 
Yea I'm going to dedicate some time at the weekend just to see what the max stable with manual voltage is. It would be nice to set the vcore manually and have the volts drop with the multiplier, which is what I presume the offset voltage does, but I'm still loving this board atm :D
 
Hey,

I will have my GD-65-G3 here on Friday and hopefully have it up and running by Sunday!

Thanks to op for this thread, it means I have an excellent reference point for when I start overclocking the i5.
I will try to get some screenies after a little play :D

Welcome to the club :D

Got 4.6ghz from mine using your settings. Voltage seems quite high though 1.35-1.36v I did manually try 1.32v but crashy crashy :-(

121.8 Gflops in IBT :-)

1.36 is okay, that's about the same auto volts as my 2600k for 4.6.
 
It sounds like you need to update the BIOS, there was a bug in an earlier one that would drop the multiplier when the CPU was under load. Check which version you have, you can download the latest stable N3 from the link in the OP that should fix it, if you register on the MSI user forum you will find a link for the MSI Flashing Tool which I recommend using.
 
Okay as I said x48 is the most I can get stable using auto volts, so I thought I'd try x49 with manual voltage. I had to go up to 1.448 (1.450 in BIOS) to pass five runs of IBT on very high, and it gets pretty warm at that. When I get more time I will try loosening the RAM timings and tweaking some other settings to see if I can get the vcore lower. I tried x50 with the same settings but I got a bluescreen 101 which I read is not enough vcore so more testing needed. Btw this is with the latest beta BIOS n46.

49_1_448.jpg






Edit; Added more detail to OP.
 
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With the earlier BIOS my mouse was a bit glitchy, but not reversed or anything although I'm not using a Logitech mouse. Tbh I still prefer using the keyboard over the mouse though.
 
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