Multirotor, multicopter and quadcopter discussion - The Drone thread

Skeeter said:
This really isn't a winter hobby is it. Evenings its dark, and weekends it rains :(
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Agreed! It's bloody cold often times so you end up with frozen hands although gloves help to some degree but you're right I can't wait for summer as this hobby will be so much more enjoyable then!

The down draft from my hex is crazy now with it's 12" props - even with gloves on if it's near by you can really feel the chill! :o:D
 
Reciever has arrived, although bit concerned about the cables that came with it, you have one cable with 4 wires (black, red, green, white) it has connector at both ends, but one end the white wire has come out the connector, assuming this is supposed to be plugged back in to the connector.

Had another cable (again black, red, green white) with connector at one end, and bare wires at the other end.

newbits.jpg
 
DJMK4 said:
Reciever has arrived, although bit concerned about the cables that came with it, you have one cable with 4 wires (black, red, green, white) it has connector at both ends, but one end the white wire has come out the connector, assuming this is supposed to be plugged back in to the connector.

Had another cable (again black, red, green white) with connector at one end, and bare wires at the other end.

newbits.jpg
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Don't worry about those wires. You won't need them. They are for connecting the Frsky Smartport current sensors and such like. The only time you might want to use it is to get the battery voltage from the Naze32 to your tx via telemetry. Then you will only need to connect 1 of the wires. So stash them away and forget about them :)

With the D4rII, all you need to do is pop the jumper on the pins marked 3&4 and then connect the signal earth and 5v wires to the naze32. Simples.
 
Sweet :) will get some more done this weekend. Try and get the Naze soldered also, however I am waiting on a new solder tip.

Didnt want to pay the extortionate £16 from maplin, and paid £6 online, but not sure if it will arrive for the weekend, if not I may have to try it with my current tip, ok for your normal work, not so great for intracate work
 
Updated the sound file on my Taranis X9D Plus last night. Then setup some switch talk backs.

GPS Mode
ATTI Mode
Manual Mode
Failsafe Mode

I also set the timer when throttle is over 50% and asked it to talk out the minute call out count.

Am blown away but this kit
 
With the sounds, did you get a sound pack from the internet and just upload it to the device? then configure the sounds on the switches?

I need to do mine at some point
 
DJMK4 said:
With the sounds, did you get a sound pack from the internet and just upload it to the device? then configure the sounds on the switches?

I need to do mine at some point
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Correct. I can put together the info and a link I was given. It came via a conversation on FB.

Took me 5 mins to do and I love it.
 
Lisapete said:
Updated the sound file on my Taranis X9D Plus last night. Then setup some switch talk backs.

GPS Mode
ATTI Mode
Manual Mode
Failsafe Mode

I also set the timer when throttle is over 50% and asked it to talk out the minute call out count.

Am blown away but this kit
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Failsafe Mode = RTH?

Not sure what FC you're using and it's probably just a terminology thing but traditionally failsafe describes the condition the receiver outputs default to when there is complete signal loss, rather than a FC mode.

I guess you have your Rx setup to failsafe into RTH mode right? :)
 
Col_M said:
Failsafe Mode = RTH?

Not sure what FC you're using and it's probably just a terminology thing but traditionally failsafe describes the condition the receiver outputs default to when there is complete signal loss, rather than a FC mode.

I guess you have your Rx setup to failsafe into RTH mode right? :)
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Taranis X9d pro. Failsafe on the Naza is RTH or Land. RTH is the prefered options.

Failsafe is the loss of signal but it's meaning changes across the platform of the hobby by the looks
 
DJMK4, I would put the esc on the arms, get rid of as much cable as possible and don't use bullet connectors as they just add weight. I run the very same motors on my quad and i dare say our frames are around the same weight? already with fpv gear on mine is starting to feel a little porky, it may not seem like it but 10-20g Is a lot on these little mini quads and it soon starts to add up, past a certain point each gram gained i would say does not equate to a linear loss in the feel of responsiveness.
I will be subbing out my esc for 20a and adding the arm extensions for 6" props or the more expensive route of going 4s to counter it as i flew it a lot without the fpv gear so now I really notice the weight gain.

So with how bad I have been lately with my sinuses I purchased a usb transmitter adaptor for my pc and have been logging a lot of time on a simulator, aerofly rc7. It has made a world of difference with acro mode and after just a few very short sporadic episodes of flying acro mode while out using horizon mode last month I went out today, after a couple of minutes I was flying nice low circuits with semi decent coordinated banked turns and quite low to the ground too.


I highly recommend it for any one wanting to improve in their flying in any way.
 
It's 's 4c, wind is pretty strong today. I'm hooning it around and used some Velcro too attach my mobis action camera for a laugh. Set the clock count on the Tranny but only on throttle %. Reported just over 10 mins. The vid I make about 21 mins. I've set a timer on my phone for 21 and running it along side the tx. If so then 21 mins for hooning about bad is it for a stock F550 E300 with a 4s 5000 mAH Turnigy lipo. I set the alarm for 3.5v
 
Kanifee said:
DJMK4, I would put the esc on the arms, get rid of as much cable as possible and don't use bullet connectors as they just add weight. I run the very same motors on my quad and i dare say our frames are around the same weight? already with fpv gear on mine is starting to feel a little porky, it may not seem like it but 10-20g Is a lot on these little mini quads and it soon starts to add up, past a certain point each gram gained i would say does not equate to a linear loss in the feel of responsiveness.
I will be subbing out my esc for 20a and adding the arm extensions for 6" props or the more expensive route of going 4s to counter it as i flew it a lot without the fpv gear so now I really notice the weight gain.

So with how bad I have been lately with my sinuses I purchased a usb transmitter adaptor for my pc and have been logging a lot of time on a simulator, aerofly rc7. It has made a world of difference with acro mode and after just a few very short sporadic episodes of flying acro mode while out using horizon mode last month I went out today, after a couple of minutes I was flying nice low circuits with semi decent coordinated banked turns and quite low to the ground too.


I highly recommend it for any one wanting to improve in their flying in any way.
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Understood, but moving them to the arms means I will have to cut pretty much ALL my motor cable, and ESC cable, leaving me with NO room for error.

Something which I really dont want to do.

Also the ESC positioning on the arm will mean that I wont be able to get some metal rods as legs, and be able to put lugs on them for feet, as any holes will be covered up by the ESCs. The esc on the arms will pretty much cover the whole thing.



What is so bad about them being inside the frame? iv seen a few set-ups whereby the ESCS are mounted inside.

I could possibly get away with mounting them half on the arm but half of the ESC pretty much in the frame, although reluctant to cut off too much wire from ESCS and motors. I am assuming you have pretty much snipped off 96% of your motor and ESC cable? if not how are you routing your cable?


Lisapete said:
Correct. I can put together the info and a link I was given. It came via a conversation on FB.

Took me 5 mins to do and I love it.
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Yeah any info would be great :) was meaning to look in to it but just been busy
 
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