MX5 Owners in here....bring your curling tongs

Soldato
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10,885
Kicked an MG off and Managed to get the car up on dad's storage ramp. How bad is mine overall? I think it's ok? Average maybe? The first 2 pics are my attempt at finding the chassis Rail corrosion that was mentioned on the advisory. One side looks good, other side is just coming through I think that's what they were pointing to

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Soldato
Joined
11 Apr 2004
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Yeah, looks like possibly a bit of a rust blister breaking through. You might have to be brave and stab it with a screwdriver.... or at the very least remove the flaky bits to see how bad it is underneath.

Apart from that though, it looks superb. Looks incredibly tidy underneath. Have the sills and arches been cavity sealed internally? If not, now may be the time to do it to keep it looking that good for a long time!
 
Soldato
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Yeah, looks like possibly a bit of a rust blister breaking through. You might have to be brave and stab it with a screwdriver.... or at the very least remove the flaky bits to see how bad it is underneath.

Apart from that though, it looks superb. Looks incredibly tidy underneath. Have the sills and arches been cavity sealed internally? If not, now may be the time to do it to keep it looking that good for a long time!

This is promising to hear. I don't know what to expect when looking under a car for this so thanks for that comment.

I've asked for a quote from a customer we do work for to quote on the chassis Rail Repair.

Regarding the cavities etc, I don't know. I feel it could be time aswell.

The previous (and only) owner claimed to have it all treated upon purchase back in 2001, and regularly topped up for a while there after. However in more recent years, due to lack of use, I feel that stopped.
 
Soldato
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There's something about a Green MK1 that just works! Good to see it out
Cheers! Funny enough British Racing Green was way down my list of preferred colours when I bought it but now the only colour I'd rather have is Excellent Green Mica which is only found on the VR Limited models.
 
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Soldato
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11 Apr 2004
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Looks lovely @lordrobs... although I always thought yours was silver?

I've been giving mine a bit of attention recently. It's always been a bit of a toy, a car I bought to scratch an itch with no real plans to keep it for as long as I have. I don't use it often and it doesn't do many miles and so I could live with its quirks and annoyances. Add to that some sour feelings after dealing with a **** poor bodyshop and I didn't really care too much for it.

However, I've been using it as my main car recently and had to live with it on a daily basis, not to mention with the upcoming Curbourough meet where I'd opted to take the MX5 instead of my Impreza... so it was time to give it a proper service and fix some of the niggly issues..

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Oil and filter, air filter, gearbox oil, diff oil, decent brake fluid and new spark plugs.

While crawling about under the car for the oil change and giving everything a look over, I noticed this...

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Not good!! I'm at a bit of a loss as to how or why it's happened, or for how long it's been rubbing on the wheel (although only on full lock). In the time I've owned the car, I have never removed or disturbed the brake caliper or hose on that side. I hadn't noticed the rubbing before and it wasn't an issue on the last MOT. The brake hose does also look a bit kinked but after removing the caliper and trying to rotate it, it ended up even worse. The hose retaining clip was still in place and there was no way for the caliper fitting to have twisted so it must have been like this since the brake flexi was last fitted or replaced. If I'd noticed this previously it would have been rectified long before it became an issue.

A bit unnerving that I'd been driving it around completely oblivious but now that I'd spotted it, I couldn't ignore it. Turns out it's quite difficult to source new rubber brake hoses for the bigger brakes on the SVT at short notice and so it was off to Demon Tweeks for a quick fix...

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However, after fitting I decided that I wasn't entirely happy with these hoses. While they fit nicely with no kinks or twists, they aren't long enough for the bigger brakes and as such are a bit too tight on full lock (despite DT recommending these based on my reg plate). They are also missing the locating nib on the banjo to hold the union in place which could possibly cause it to loosen over time. While they got me out of the **** in the short term, I don't feel very comfortable using them so placed an order for some IL Motorsport hoses from MX5parts which arrived yesterday. They look much better quality and I think I'll feel much better about using them as long term replacements for the rubber hoses.

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A job for today is to replace all the hoses with the ILs and do a complete flush through with the RBF fluid. I use this in my Impreza and have been very impressed by it.

Anyway, with the brake situation sorted I moved onto the rest of the car. Engine oil and filter changed, new air filter and so onto the rear diff.

I think 02/03 is the cutover year between the TorSen and Fuji LSDs and without pulling a driveshaft, didn't know which diff my car had (mine is a 52 plate). At least now I had my answer as this chunk of something came out with the rest of the diff oil...

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Ahhhhhh yes, that'll be the notorious Fuji diff breaking down, aptly referred to as ToFu by some. I'm currently considering a couple of options; i.e. get the Fuji rebuilt or move to a TorSen. There does seem to be high praise for a guy over in Ireland who rebuilds the Fuji diffs so this may well be the route I take.

After all of that unexpected drama, I was away for a couple of days with work so when I got back I finished off the few final bits; gearbox oil and spark plugs.

I'd already removed the centre console and noticed the gearshift boot was split allowing drivetrain noise and hot air into the cabin. As I planned to change the gearbox oil anyway and was aware that you can fill the box from the gearshift turret, figured I'd hit two birds with one stone.

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New gearbox oil along with genuine Mazda upper and lower boots and the nylon shifter bush. Mine were in just slightly less than perfect condition when I removed them from the car...

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Much better...

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Seeing pictures of the underbody of Kinger's car above was putting mine to shame, so while the heatshields and braces were out for the gearbox oil change, I figured I'd give them a bit of a tart up...

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Not perfect, but this was done with barely any prep while I had the heatshields off while changing the gearbox oil. I'll no doubt revisit it again as I work my way through the rest of the car but as a quick job to get the looking a bit less 'titanic-esque', it'll do. I sure hope Mr MOT Man appreciates my efforts!

Another job I really wanted to tackle was a more permanent fix to the cloudly headlights. I've tried polishing them a few times, and while I can get rid of the yellowing they never really clean up completely and still end up a bit milky. Even wet sanding and using my DA on them wouldn't get them completely clear. The car was used so infrequently that it didn't really bother me but having 3 different people mention it to me in the last couple of weeks, it had to be sorted.

From this...

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To buying some decent used units on eBay, giving them a clean and a UV seal....

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Bit embarrasing really isn't it :o :D

So, after a bit of spanner time on the old girl, how is it driving???

Honestly... I am absolutely gobsmacked at how it feels to drive now and just shows how it's possible to get accustomed to a car feeling 'normal' as its performance degrades overtime. Clearly I knew that the car wasn't at its best but I wasn't expecting it to feel as though it had picked up about 15bhp from something as simple as a service (15bhp is a LOT when you're talking Braun Hairdryer Power). It is massively more free revving and feels significantly more lively, a complete night and day difference. The gear change, while still a bit notchy from cold, is superb when warmed up and the reduction in gearbox noise and heat from something as simple as a rubber gaiter is amazing.

As for the braided lines, I still need to fit the IL hoses and re-bleed the system but there is definitely a big improvement over the old rubber hoses. I think from the marketing bumph and people's assumption of braided lines, they are expected to give a super solid pedal. From my rather limited experience, I don't think braided lines quite match the instant response that you get from adding a brake stopper (master cylinder brace) but they certainly do provide a consistent level of performance once you've put the system under load. Installing a brake stopper alongside braided lines would IMO make for a very very effective braking system.

Overall, I've really enjoyed getting to work on the car given how much I'd put it on the backburner previously. I think I actually quite like it again (for now!) ;)
 
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Soldato
Joined
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Norwich
Looks lovely @lordrobs... although I always thought yours was silver?
Thanks!

First one I went to see was silver, owned by a well regarded member of the owners club and seen as a bit of an expert. It was advertised as never been welded and has never needed to be. While having a look I gently felt the sills and my hand near enough went through...

I then nearly tripled my budget and went for the green one you see there which hasn't been welded and genuinely still doesn't have any significant rust.

Your relationship with yours sounds very familiar. I'd got rid of my car 10 months prior and we went down to one car between us. I missed just owning a car if my own and after considering all sorts (MGB, 240Z, 944...) I went with the sensible option of the MX5. I never in a million years thought I'd still have it over a decade later.

It spent a long time as regular leisure transport on the weekends, has had spells where it has covered low hundreds of miles a year and also done stints as the daily driver for a 50 mile commute.

Since having our boy it barely gets used at all but I can't seem to bring myself to sell it and my regular browsing of car and classic hasn't really shown me anything with rear seats that jumps out at me without being a potential liability that I don't have the time to deal with.

Then I do occasionally get the chance to drive the thing and honestly, for me it is the perfect fun car. Mainly because it isn't particularly quick and doesn't have shed loads of grip which means you can explore what is available without doing warp speed.
 
Man of Honour
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@agw_01

I would opt for having the Fuji rebuilt by the guys in Ireland. A good clutch type diff will lock much more consistently than a Torsen. Torsens lock a bit unpredictably and if there’s little to no grip one side you’ll still get a one tyre break loose.

Turns out after however many years of thinking my old one had an open diff it did actually have a torsen after all
 
Soldato
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@agw_01 That's a nice bit of TLC and doing the headlights makes such a difference.

I fitted the IL braided lines last year and they fit really well, exactly the same size as OEM with the same fittings.

I too had a split in the rubber shifter boot, but being a cheapskate I mended it with a bike puncture kit :)
 
Soldato
Joined
23 Mar 2011
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10,885
Anyone else ever get a bit of Judder when pulling away in an NB?

I can't tell if it's an issue or just how I'm driving when going between 2 different cars.

Seems to go away once it's warmed up
 
Soldato
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11 Apr 2004
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@agw_01

I would opt for having the Fuji rebuilt by the guys in Ireland. A good clutch type diff will lock much more consistently than a Torsen. Torsens lock a bit unpredictably and if there’s little to no grip one side you’ll still get a one tyre break loose.

Turns out after however many years of thinking my old one had an open diff it did actually have a torsen after all

Thanks Phil! I was hoping you'd show up as I really value your opinion on stuff like this and you know way more about the intricacies than I ever will. I had been reading up on the Fuji vs TorSen argument and had seen multiple mentions of the 'one tyre fire' with a TorSen. It's still very early days but I was planning on getting in touch with the Ireland chaps and having a chat... so it's really good to know that that is also a route you would take.

@agw_01 That's a nice bit of TLC and doing the headlights makes such a difference.

I fitted the IL braided lines last year and they fit really well, exactly the same size as OEM with the same fittings.

I too had a split in the rubber shifter boot, but being a cheapskate I mended it with a bike puncture kit :)

Thanks @bainbridge! It's a nice feeling to know that the car has had a decent service with quality fluids, especially as I want to 'treat' it to a bit more track action over the next couple of years. Driving it again today, it is without a doubt up on power and feels so much better to drive than before. I'm very happy with how it's coming together after just a little bit of time and effort.

The headlights... I'm embarrased that I let them get so bad, but it's always one of those 'do it tomorrow' jobs.

I went to fit my IL hoses tonight and have come a bit unstuck. You have a Mk3 IIRC? How did your hoses sit when installed? Maybe I'm just being paranoid but after replacing a worn rubber hose that appears to have been installed incorrectly, I'm in no rush to do the same!

This is how I expected the hose to sit; vs how it sits with the banjo orientation correct; vs with the hose twisted the other way

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The hose fits in a keyed grooved in the chassis bracket and can't be rotated. It only fits in one way, but then the orientation of the banjo doesn't seem correct without severely twisting the hose into position.

The drivers side hose appears to fit perfectly well with a nice droop from the metal bracket to the caliper, the passenger side seems awfully fussy and awkward in comparison.

Haha, great idea on the puncture repair kit! Mine was so worn out I'd have had to buy Halford's entire stock!

Anyone else ever get a bit of Judder when pulling away in an NB?

Yeah I notice the same in mine. I have to rev it a bit higher or slip the clutch a little bit in order to get away cleanly when compared with other manual cars. It's possibly just a worn clutch or flywheel face though, I had the same in my old Impreza WRX which completely went away after a clutch and flywheel change.
 
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Soldato
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Bristol
My mx5 is a mk3.5 and on the front brakes the little securing prong at the banjo bolt end is inline with the brake lines and slots on a hole in the caliper. The ones in your pictures look like the little prong comes off at a right angle. Maybe they are left and right handed and you were accidentally given 2 right handers?
 
Man of Honour
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Thanks Phil! I was hoping you'd show up as I really value your opinion on stuff like this and you know way more about the intricacies than I ever will. I had been reading up on the Fuji vs TorSen argument and had seen multiple mentions of the 'one tyre fire' with a TorSen. It's still very early days but I was planning on getting in touch with the Ireland chaps and having a chat... so it's really good to know that that is also a route you would take.

I’m thoroughly out of touch with prices now but the other bonus of that route is a spare Fuji to be sent to rebuilt is about the same cost as a freddo vs a TorSen that costs as much as a complete ropy mk2.

Coming up for 5 years since I sold mine now :o

If I was to do it all again it would be a ZF 8HP and something like a Kaaz 2-Way.
 
Soldato
Joined
23 Mar 2011
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10,885
Kicked an MG off and Managed to get the car up on dad's storage ramp. How bad is mine overall? I think it's ok? Average maybe? The first 2 pics are my attempt at finding the chassis Rail corrosion that was mentioned on the advisory. One side looks good, other side is just coming through I think that's what they were pointing to

PXL-20240521-093437780.jpg


PXL-20240521-093458698.jpg


RE: This chassis Rail. We have a full fabrication/welding workshop/staff here at work.

One of our main guys has done many patch up jobs on chassis etc in the past and is more than happy to have a go at potentially cutting out the affected area, welding a plate in, making it all flush and coating in the right stuff.

Would this be sufficient Vs doing a full cut out section like the ones you can buy?

The method he's suggesting shouldn't require taking too much stuff off.

Just wondering if this would look like a half assed job to someone looking at it down the line.

He's good at what he does
 
Soldato
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Glasgow
I’m having thoughts about getting another mx5. Is it possible to get a good one for £3k or will it be a rust bucket and seen a friendly mot tester?…
Ideally a mk3, but would settle for a Mk 2/.5.
 
Caporegime
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19 Apr 2008
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Essex
I’m having thoughts about getting another mx5. Is it possible to get a good one for £3k or will it be a rust bucket and seen a friendly mot tester?…
Ideally a mk3, but would settle for a Mk 2/.5.

3k will either get you an NC1 which will probably be a bit rusty and they have oil consumption issues if not looked after but you should be able to pick up a tidy NB for that. The issues are usually apparent, front chassis legs and rear sills.
 
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