My Log Burner...

@zarnage, this might be more aimed at you but anyone else's opinion is also welcomed.

Our chimney has now been rebuilt (next door didn't pay their half which i very annoying but i've decided it's not worth the hassle to pursue it), and the liner is down.

The guy is coming on Thursday to fit the actual stove. I had always assumed he would finish it off, however it's looking like this isn't the case. We have a space which was opened up a few years ago as can be seen below.

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This was plasterboarded on all sides. To fit the liner, the chimney guy has pulled down a chunk of the ceiling board and has asked me to remove the rest in preparation of fitting the stove. Including remove the batten at the back as seen below.

About 12" above where this board sits is an old brick arch. He's said that he'll have to fit the registry plate above this arch with the tubing coming down from that to the fire. All well and good. However that seems to be how he's planning on leaving it. I accept that the chimney will then be sealed and nothing can come down. But it won't look very good and as can be seen it's not like the bricks are pretty. They're filthy and i don't fancy spending hours cleaning them.

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Whats the best way to finish this? My thinking is a piece of fireboard where the existing plasterboard is, with a hole cut out where the flue pipe will go (a piece either side with a semi circle cut out. I'd then skim over this. Just wondering if that's an option or if the flue pipe would kick out too much heat. One plasterer has suggested that and hinted it may be better to tile it but that seems very hassle.

Any thoughts?
 
Unfortunately the images aren't showing for me. So i cant fully get an idea of where it is. But if its an area facing the stove (ie to the side, behind or above the stove) it will have to be a suitable material. Although plaster wont go setting on fire, it will blemish over time.
 
zarnage said:
Unfortunately the images aren't showing for me. So i cant fully get an idea of where it is. But if its an area facing the stove (ie to the side, behind or above the stove) it will have to be a suitable material. Although plaster wont go setting on fire, it will blemish over time.
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Thanks. It's the area above the stove at the top of the opening, although it's probably got about 18" of clearance.

Are we ok to plaster right up to the flue pipe so it's a sealed and finished look or do we need to finish some other way?
 
Marvt74 said:
Thanks. It's the area above the stove at the top of the opening, although it's probably got about 18" of clearance.

Are we ok to plaster right up to the flue pipe so it's a sealed and finished look or do we need to finish some other way?
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Hopefully the below picture helps, the black plate (register plate) should be above for the flue to pass through. Then for sides/back (white walls in the picture) it needs to be a suitable material (render, heatboards, tiles etc). Then you can plaster the front (greyish colour in the picture)

If the white walls were plaster they would likely blemish, due to the flue pipe mostly.

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Yeah i think this is where our issue is.

I've done an excellent drawing in Paint to try and explain how he's done it.

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So you can see the opening and the stove (probably a fairly accurate ratio), the yellow pipe is then the flue pipe going up. There is a brick arch above the ceiling of the opening in the chinmney and the fitter has said it's best to fit the registry plate above that arch.

The issue is he was then leaving everything below the arch open. I'd have expected that the registry plate would've gone at the top of the opening (below the arch) and then it would've been finished off as per your picture above.

What we'd like to do is re-board the top of the opening to end up with a proper finish but not sure of the best way to do it. I was thinking of fireboard with a 6" hole in the middle for the flue to pass through and then getting it skimmed over but i'm now not sure thats a good option because of the heat from the flue.

Any suggestions based on the (hopefully you can see it) image above
 
Don't think so, i think it's supported by the old brick arch.

It's a victorian terrace and the opening was from when we had a big ol' back boiler removed.
 
The registry plate is nothing more than to stop rubbish falling down the chimney is it not?

Unless you are going to go up to the arch and look up, not sure what benefit you'd get with having the plate lower, or boarding lower?

I have a brick arch and the plate is above the arch so you can't see it.
 
Marvt74 said:
Don't think so, i think it's supported by the old brick arch.

It's a victorian terrace and the opening was from when we had a big ol' back boiler removed.
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We'd typically change it for a lintel so we could install the plate lower, so i'd say your best option would be to use cement render or a heat resistance board to fill the newly exposed area.
 
First log delivery in the new house :)

Tipper Toyota managed to reverse right up to the log store

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Load spillage

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And what a load he spilled :p

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Ten sacks of kindling

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And a new chopping log

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Delivered just before it started to rain, so covered over and ready for decanting into the store tomorrow

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So stacked all the logs in the two stores and just managed to squeeze them all in !

Small intermediate store (double stacked)

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and the big store, also double stacked bit a bit of triple stacking and right up into the rafters !

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Staying in a cottage in Cornwall this weekend and there is a wood burner. Last night I fired it up and I must have burned about half a basket of wood. Made me realise that these things aren't cheap to run!
 
Hedge said:
Staying in a cottage in Cornwall this weekend and there is a wood burner. Last night I fired it up and I must have burned about half a basket of wood. Made me realise that these things aren't cheap to run!
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Once up to a good temp (450 to 550 deg F on our Clearview), did you close off the vents? Our stove will then need 1 to 2 logs per hour to keep ticking over at that heat.
 
I believe so. Once I had it going nice I closed the shutter thing on the top and it's burn rate slowed down and just steadily ticked over.

We have wanted one in our house for a while and will no doubt get one in future but by the time I buy all the gear like axe, drying shed, gloves, stove tools, basket etc it's quite a hefty investment!
 
Well worth it though :D

We had one in our old house and we moved on the Friday and had the local supplier / fitter round to quote on the Monday and had one fitted a few weeks later

Great investment and as above once you get used to your stove a log can last a long while

Its also a lot more fun than a shredder for securely disposing of personal paperwork :p
 
Hedge said:
I believe so. Once I had it going nice I closed the shutter thing on the top and it's burn rate slowed down and just steadily ticked over.

We have wanted one in our house for a while and will no doubt get one in future but by the time I buy all the gear like axe, drying shed, gloves, stove tools, basket etc it's quite a hefty investment!
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Investment but they do contribute to heating the house, so offset a little against gas or oil consumption. Also shop around - our log basket and tools came from a shop in Liverpool and were under £50 in total. I've seen posh log baskets for £100 to £200 - they should like the fire for that price!

The log stores {SAS}TB linked to look nice, but I'd go with building your own. I built this myself, some recycled timber in the base but otherwise around £50 in new timber and screws.

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I had previously bought two of these from the factory shop

http://www.rowgar.co.uk/small-log-store

but not as solid as my own build - the sides on one have warped after a year.
 
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