My Rally Project

I always seem to lose my bottle when taking stuff apart.

I've got some play in Recaro seat atm, I know it's because it's on a plastic cog that wears flat, so last night I took the nob off the side of the seat, took another inner sleeve out - then got to a pin - it wouldnt come off so I gave up.

I'm sure if I was a bit more brutual it would have come off but I just think "what happens if I break it" and back off.

Such a wimp. :(
 
The wiring from the battery is nice thick 135 amp stuff. You can go crazy with 300 amp but in all honesty it's overkill on a car of this size. 135 amp is thicker and better quality than the standard Peugeot stuff.

There will be an inline main fuse as close to the battery as possible, when I've worked out what rating it needs to be - 60 amp or something like that? Probably higher......I've not even picked up a calculator yet so that figure might be well off. I'm sure the starter pulls a phenomenal amount.

I've ordered the cable pull for the master switch which will be located at the base of the windscreen. Just need to find a decent distribution block and I'll be happy.
 
Nice one Lopez.

Looks like it's going to be a good project :)

Some people just have the balls to do stuff like this :p

Always been tempted to get a battered old Clio RL 1.4 and make it into a bit of a rally ****, but haven't got the proper knowledge or enthusiams.

Good luck.
 
The starter will pull loads.. but only for a small amount of time :)

will be watching this thread :) id love to have a project car
 
Lopéz said:
There will be an inline main fuse as close to the battery as possible, when I've worked out what rating it needs to be - 60 amp or something like that? Probably higher......I've not even picked up a calculator yet so that figure might be well off. I'm sure the starter pulls a phenomenal amount.
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Starters will pull anything from about 120Amps upwards (much more for bigger engines & diesels in cold weather). The initial surge current when the motor is first engaged may be several times higher!

You almost certainly don't want a fuse in the starter motor line, I've not worked on a car that has ever had one to my knowledge. The only time bigish fuses are used in cars is sometimes in the alternator cable, and in the main ignition/auxiliarly supply from the battery, which is then split up into numerous different circuits. Some cars have neither, and just rely on the individualy fused circuits. The diagram below should show what I mean, Fuse1 and Fuse2 would be pretty big, probably around 100Amps.

simple-wiring.gif
 
Dogbreath said:
You almost certainly don't want a fuse in the starter motor line, I've not worked on a car that has ever had one to my knowledge
Click to expand...
Good point - Minis don't have fused starter lines do they?
 
wow, looks awesome, will keep an eye on this thread very interesting and may lead to a small project and something to do when i graduate :D
 
How did you mount those spot lights to the car mate?

I wouldn't mind a nice pair of Cibies....what would light up the road in the distance better, fogs or spots?
 
Lopéz said:
Good point - Minis don't have fused starter lines do they?
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No. Although several Mk1's suffered from the starter cable chaffing through and causing fires...

About the isolator switch, a friends rally Pug 205 has a separate external and internal switch, is it ok to have a cable just connected to the inisde one?

Will have to take a few pics of it for you when it's back on the road. They've been through 4 Mi16 engines due to oil surge (running semi-slicks), and are now having a monster dry sumped Mi16 built. Cams have so much lift the head has required machining and extra wide followers put in as the cam was riding off the edge of the originals! Running on throttle bodies with Emerald ECU, Quaife box etc. It was quick before, but this will be a monster.
 
EnFieLd said:
How did you mount those spot lights to the car mate?

I wouldn't mind a nice pair of Cibies....what would light up the road in the distance better, fogs or spots?
Click to expand...
You generally get 3 lens types.

Fog is a low, wide beam

Spot/Pencil is a long range narrow beam

Drive/Sport is a good compromise between both

Those Oscars on the 205 are drive lenses, for the new car I'm using Super Oscars with one Pencil and one Drive, best of both worlds. In most applications a pair of Drives is probably the best choice.

These ones are mounted using some 90 degree angle aluminium plates, about 4mm thick. They bolt through the bumper bar if I remember rightly and make it virtually impossible to adjust the lamps once fitted....so I'll be looking for other solutions this time.

Dogbreath said:
About the isolator switch, a friends rally Pug 205 has a separate external and internal switch, is it ok to have a cable just connected to the inisde one?
Click to expand...

Should be yep - in fact there is no real need for a pull cable if he has an external switch as both will break the power in about the same place anyway. I was going to go for 2 switches, one inside one out, and indeed I might still do that if the pull cable proves to awkward to get working smoothly.
 
Gah, Now I'm thinking "If only my Landrover were down here", especially having a reasonable amount of time off now.....

/starts measuring garden up for garage install....
 
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