Man of Honour
- Joined
- 5 Jun 2003
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Coalville meet
Hehe.
Leon you know I've spoken to Kate and likely to go up there early at the weekend start of feb (1/2nd) so you better have it ready by then!
My Rally Project
- Thread starter Lopéz
- Start date
Hehe.
Leon you know I've spoken to Kate and likely to go up there early at the weekend start of feb (1/2nd) so you better have it ready by then!
Man of Honour
- Joined
- 5 Jun 2003
- Posts
- 91,786
- Location
- Falling...
Scallops and steak I hear! Bon appetit! 
Soldato
- Joined
- 22 Aug 2004
- Posts
- 7,607
Yoo hoo, great project as always, where do you get the rubber lined P clips from, good quality wire and stuff like the thick battery wires? I'm going to start my mini project this year 
Yoo hoo, great project as always, where do you get the rubber lined P clips from, good quality wire and stuff like the thick battery wires? I'm going to start my mini project this year
From my stash of kit car bookmarks:
http://www.polevolt.co.uk/
http://www.bluebeehive.com/
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/home/homepage.php
http://www.autosparks.co.uk/
http://www.nfauto.co.uk/ (loads of useful bits, but quite pricey IMO)
http://www.s-v-c.co.uk/ (specialise in lighting)
http://www.premierwiring.co.uk/ (family run business making kit car wiring looms)
If all else fails then a popular auction site will yield results.
Did the other rear beam solid mount today, and started on the brake line for the same side.
Rubber mounts = not nice:
Solid mounts = nice:
Flexi had a big chunk out of it on the driver side so I've binned it and will pick up a new one on Monday - might actually replace the pair while I'm at it.
Here is the "done" side:
The old lines and fittings were so corroded they crumbled as I undid them.
Ordered a new front bumper from Euro Car Parts because I've lost my new one I bought ages ago! I'll do a fibreglass repair on my cracked valance in the morning as well so it's all ready to fit back together.
Also need to nip out and grab a few hoseclips as I want to try filling the coolant system and it won't hold water without some new jubilee clips.
Also got the other driveshaft fitted... and the clutch cable is now in. Clutch feels lovely which is a relief!
Rubber mounts = not nice:
Solid mounts = nice:
Flexi had a big chunk out of it on the driver side so I've binned it and will pick up a new one on Monday - might actually replace the pair while I'm at it.
Here is the "done" side:
The old lines and fittings were so corroded they crumbled as I undid them.
Ordered a new front bumper from Euro Car Parts because I've lost my new one I bought ages ago! I'll do a fibreglass repair on my cracked valance in the morning as well so it's all ready to fit back together.
Also need to nip out and grab a few hoseclips as I want to try filling the coolant system and it won't hold water without some new jubilee clips.
Also got the other driveshaft fitted... and the clutch cable is now in. Clutch feels lovely which is a relief!
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Dunno, I'm held back by silly things at the moment
1) **** up with despatch of my exhaust
2) All these suppliers telling me they can supply parts, so you order them, and suddenly they can't (bumpers and windscreen rubbers the main culprits - in fact I'm getting pretty desperate for a windscreen seal and may have to do a scrapyard raid)
3) Car is massively overfuelling on startup (plugs getting wet with petrol but strong spark on all 4) - going to try the 1.9 ECU but I think it's because it has no coolant in it which makes them run hugely rich I believe)
First week in Feb?
1) **** up with despatch of my exhaust
2) All these suppliers telling me they can supply parts, so you order them, and suddenly they can't (bumpers and windscreen rubbers the main culprits - in fact I'm getting pretty desperate for a windscreen seal and may have to do a scrapyard raid)
3) Car is massively overfuelling on startup (plugs getting wet with petrol but strong spark on all 4) - going to try the 1.9 ECU but I think it's because it has no coolant in it which makes them run hugely rich I believe)
First week in Feb?
Soldato
- Joined
- 22 Aug 2004
- Posts
- 7,607
Cheers for the links lads. Many thanks
Okay, bit more done. Car is on axle stands with the rear beam on the floor and can't go back together until I get a new flexi hose on Monday so I'm stuck really - can't get to most of my tools and can't move the car out to get to them!
So I got on with bits and bobs instead.
The paint on my Super Oscars was awful - full of chips, bits peeling etc.
So, a dousing of Nitromors and 10 minutes later we have this:
Ready to prime up and repaint.
Also routed the fuel lines using my new rubber-lined P Clips:
Might pop one more clip up by the bulkhead later to keep them right out of the footwell.
Note how tight space is - the lines need running right against the handbrake area or the seats and subframes will chafe the fuel lines.
Speaking of the handbrake, the brake lines are also in place for the front of the car now, run down the other side of the centre console and through the bias valve:
Excuse the mess in the footwell, that's my "nuts and bolts I'm currently using" corner
Those valves are almost half the price if you buy them from America!
So I got on with bits and bobs instead.
The paint on my Super Oscars was awful - full of chips, bits peeling etc.
So, a dousing of Nitromors and 10 minutes later we have this:
Ready to prime up and repaint.
Also routed the fuel lines using my new rubber-lined P Clips:
Might pop one more clip up by the bulkhead later to keep them right out of the footwell.
Note how tight space is - the lines need running right against the handbrake area or the seats and subframes will chafe the fuel lines.
Speaking of the handbrake, the brake lines are also in place for the front of the car now, run down the other side of the centre console and through the bias valve:
Excuse the mess in the footwell, that's my "nuts and bolts I'm currently using" corner
Those valves are almost half the price if you buy them from America!
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Passenger side seat now in place.
I'm never buying red seats again, they look ace for all of 30 seconds and just plain scruffy after that.
No point fitting the other seat as it will get in the way of my fiddling at the moment.
Might fit the passenger side harness in a bit, keep me out of the way of Kates' visiting relatives
Little bits of trim etc will be the last things I fit... need to get that rear brake line in ASAP so I can see if the whole system holds fluid! If it doesn't I'll need to reflare some of my unions.
Bonnet can now be locked down in place which is another thing off the list. Roll cage not going in until later, after the MOT as I want it shotblasting before I paint it and fit it.
I'm never buying red seats again, they look ace for all of 30 seconds and just plain scruffy after that.
No point fitting the other seat as it will get in the way of my fiddling at the moment.
Might fit the passenger side harness in a bit, keep me out of the way of Kates' visiting relatives
Little bits of trim etc will be the last things I fit... need to get that rear brake line in ASAP so I can see if the whole system holds fluid! If it doesn't I'll need to reflare some of my unions.
Bonnet can now be locked down in place which is another thing off the list. Roll cage not going in until later, after the MOT as I want it shotblasting before I paint it and fit it.
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Man of Honour
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- 91,786
- Location
- Falling...
Looking great dude! You going to have it finished by the end of the month? If so I want a spin! If not I can help!
Erm, hoping to finish ASAP! Getting sick of it now, I want to drive the bugger.
Okay, seat and harness now in
Looks pretty smart if I say so myself - originally Demon Tweeks got the order wrong and sent us blue harnesses instead of black, but I'm glad now because I think I prefer them
Harness has 3 mounting points. One side uses the original seatbelt mounting point:
The other side goes to an eyebolt and backplate welded to the exhaust tunnel (tbh, I could have used a normal bolt here but the eyebolt came with the backplate) Must remember to fit a washer to that bolt!
The mounting point for the shoulder straps ALWAYS causes internet controversy. On the 205 you can either use the rear beam mounting point or the rear seatbelt buckle mounting point, and still stay safely within the recommended angles set out by the FIA. So that's what I'm doing.
Okay, seat and harness now in
Looks pretty smart if I say so myself - originally Demon Tweeks got the order wrong and sent us blue harnesses instead of black, but I'm glad now because I think I prefer them
Harness has 3 mounting points. One side uses the original seatbelt mounting point:
The other side goes to an eyebolt and backplate welded to the exhaust tunnel (tbh, I could have used a normal bolt here but the eyebolt came with the backplate) Must remember to fit a washer to that bolt!
The mounting point for the shoulder straps ALWAYS causes internet controversy. On the 205 you can either use the rear beam mounting point or the rear seatbelt buckle mounting point, and still stay safely within the recommended angles set out by the FIA. So that's what I'm doing.
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Hmm, just wondering about my windscreen seal problem...
Can anyone think of a reason why it would fail the MOT without a windscreen?
Providing there are no sharp edges left when you remove the windscreen, I can't think why you wouldn't pass.
Nor me. Hmmmm.
Really exciting update. Wiper arms painted satin black
My "Storage Bay" Really, really, really need to sort this out as it's just a huge pile of random bits of car and tools at the moment!
See what you can spot amongst that lot
My generally cramped and poorly lit garage. Ladders waste a MASSIVE amount of space, need to get them hung from the beams or something.
This is what I need to sort tomorrow when I get my new flexi brake hose. Note cobbled together exhaust that finishes halfway along the car instead of coming out the back
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I think your next project should be extending the garage! I'm never going to complain about lack of space again! Lots of respect for getting so much done in so little space, I'd have knocked a wall down by now.
Trust me it's been considered! Unfortunately I can't make it any deeper, the drive it leads out on to belongs to next door, and it backs on to Council owned land.
I could go sideways to the left, we currently have a lean-to shed there. It would at least mean I could open the doors inside I suppose!
Work drags on.
Flexi hose is on order and should be at my local motor factor by 11.
Bumper has not arrived at GSF yet but may come in on the next van in the afternoon.
Exhaust is out for delivery with Businesspost but it's headed to my work address and I'm not there.
So, as the car is still immobile I thought I'd do something else.
This is a spare axle I have taken from my other 205. It is in better condition than the one on the red car, so I may fit it in the not too distant future. For now, it needs new brake shoes and I have some handy - so here's a guide on how to disassemble the drum.
Brake drums are held together with a system of ropes and pulleys combined with a sprinkling of witchcraft - my honest advice? Take pics as you go along or do one side at a time, because you can easily forget how it all goes back together!
Step 1:
Pop off the hub cap
Step 2:
Undo hub nut. You will need to use a far manlier grip than the one I am demonstrating in the picture. I had to stand on the axle to stop it rocking about, it's much easier if the axle is mounted to the car!
Step 3:
After hitting the drum cover lots with a hammer and blunt chisel, it will eventually work off exposing the innards of the drum.
The eagle-eyed amongst you will notice I am now working on the other side, I just happened to have the drum cover already off this side!
Get busy with the needle nosed pliers because those 3 springs need to come off. Don't lose any unless you have bought a new kit of replacements.
Step 5:
Now the shoes are only held in by the 2 sprung pins. Can you see them? One on each shoe, roughly in the middle. You need to use needle nosed pliers again and turn the pins, allowing the spring to pop off and free the shoes.
The handbrake adjuster (the long bar with a fork at the end down the bottom) will also fall off at this point.
Step 6:
Release the handbrake cable, on the 205 it just lifts out
Step 7:
One bare drum. It might be worth scraping off any loose rust or paint, and checking the condition of the wheel cylinder (that cylindrical object at the bottom of the pic)
Step 8:
As you can see, the new shoes have a fair bit more meat on them.
Step 9:
Optional bit this. Soak all the springs etc in a strong solution of Bilt-Hamber Deox-C to get rid of as much corrosion as possible.
I'll check on the corroded parts this afternoon, and if they are sufficiently clean, reassembly can begin
Flexi hose is on order and should be at my local motor factor by 11.
Bumper has not arrived at GSF yet but may come in on the next van in the afternoon.
Exhaust is out for delivery with Businesspost but it's headed to my work address and I'm not there.
So, as the car is still immobile I thought I'd do something else.
This is a spare axle I have taken from my other 205. It is in better condition than the one on the red car, so I may fit it in the not too distant future. For now, it needs new brake shoes and I have some handy - so here's a guide on how to disassemble the drum.
Brake drums are held together with a system of ropes and pulleys combined with a sprinkling of witchcraft - my honest advice? Take pics as you go along or do one side at a time, because you can easily forget how it all goes back together!
Step 1:
Pop off the hub cap
Step 2:
Undo hub nut. You will need to use a far manlier grip than the one I am demonstrating in the picture. I had to stand on the axle to stop it rocking about, it's much easier if the axle is mounted to the car!
Step 3:
After hitting the drum cover lots with a hammer and blunt chisel, it will eventually work off exposing the innards of the drum.
The eagle-eyed amongst you will notice I am now working on the other side, I just happened to have the drum cover already off this side!
Get busy with the needle nosed pliers because those 3 springs need to come off. Don't lose any unless you have bought a new kit of replacements.
Step 5:
Now the shoes are only held in by the 2 sprung pins. Can you see them? One on each shoe, roughly in the middle. You need to use needle nosed pliers again and turn the pins, allowing the spring to pop off and free the shoes.
The handbrake adjuster (the long bar with a fork at the end down the bottom) will also fall off at this point.
Step 6:
Release the handbrake cable, on the 205 it just lifts out
Step 7:
One bare drum. It might be worth scraping off any loose rust or paint, and checking the condition of the wheel cylinder (that cylindrical object at the bottom of the pic)
Step 8:
As you can see, the new shoes have a fair bit more meat on them.
Step 9:
Optional bit this. Soak all the springs etc in a strong solution of Bilt-Hamber Deox-C to get rid of as much corrosion as possible.
I'll check on the corroded parts this afternoon, and if they are sufficiently clean, reassembly can begin
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