Caporegime
Gutted, the last M50B25TU my mate bought (with box) was <£300.
My Retro Resto - E30 325i Cab
- Thread starter InvaderGIR
- Start date
Gutted, the last M50B25TU my mate bought (with box) was <£300.
I'm running (have run) out of space for cars to be quite honest. I guess that'd be a 2 door or 4 door? Get it listed on E30Zone, ebay etc. it'll be worth a K or two even if it isn't completed (provided it isn't a rotbox).
The only problem with E30Zone.net is they are mostly a bunch of morons, if you think GD on here is bad you've got another thing coming with that place. Geez.
There are many knowledgeable and helpful people though and they should be able to value it much better than I can. I'd certainly say if it is in a decent condition (shell, interior etc.) then it is worth a lot more than I paid for the cab especially as it has a 24v and runs. If it doesn't run then provided the bits needed to make it run come with it it shouldn't lose much value.
If all else fails, I'll take it for £50.
ive not posted in GD, but it sounds ace.
big thumbs up for the amount of work you have covered though, very impressive.
ive not touched my old banger BM for months until lastnight. im changing rear control arm bushes. due to having no experience with BMs i have no idea which ones actually wear and which dont.
the BM forums are a total pain, im really struggling to find actually knowledge/experience.
big thumbs up for the amount of work you have covered though, very impressive.
ive not touched my old banger BM for months until lastnight. im changing rear control arm bushes. due to having no experience with BMs i have no idea which ones actually wear and which dont.
the BM forums are a total pain, im really struggling to find actually knowledge/experience.
You bought an E36 M3 iirc?
The only place I rate for (e36) knowledge and help is e36coupe.com after going on various UK and US forums it appears to be the only one not full of complete idiots. That isn't to say it doesn't have them mind.
There is usually quite a few threads on bushes in the E36 section although I don't really go in there much any more, I mostly just post in journals.
Caporegime
Great work Rob, keep it up 
Caporegime
Looking good
Associate
Rather enjoying this thread.....
keep us posted
GJUK
keep us posted
GJUK
Day Five - 31/05/2012
Ok so I've been a bit lax with updates...and with working on the car if I'm honest. The main reason for this is because I found out that there was a 325i locally going cheap. This meant I have spent the last couple of weeks getting my second E30 and sorting out some problems on it and ensuring that I removed a few choice parts I needed for the cab.
The engine on the new one runs brilliantly as can bea heard in the below video:
The issue with the car is that the rear drive gear was in the boot and not attached to the underside, as I was after the engine and some other parts this really didn't phase me in the slightest. I have spent the last couple of weekends sorting out all the parts/bolts etc. and worked on getting the beam, hubs and wheels back on.
I found out that one of the bolts I needed was missing a nut and also that a rear spring was missing. The spring didn't bother me as I figured I could work something out for that, the nut though was for the rear beam mounting bolt and without it meant I couldn't do much at all. Instead of finding a replacement nut I ended up going to my local building suppliers and found a bolt of approximately the right length and some nuts and washers. If the car was going back on the road I would NOT be bodging it back together, but as I only need the car to be rolling it doesn't matter so long as it is held somehow for the moment.
I got back from work tonight and fitted my shiney new bolt and tested the strength of it...it seemed fairly stable so I reattached the wishbones, with hubs still on...one has a half shaft still attached because it is rusted in place by the nut and the air powered impact gun wouldn't shift it.
Driver's side hub & beam on.
Driver's side beam bolt.
Passenger side hub & beam on.
Passenger side beam replacement bolt/bodge.
Put the wheels back on (no discs on the hubs and handbrake lines are cut anyway) and began to lower it.
Driver's side wheel on.
Passenger side wheel on.
Remember I said I only had one spring...well...without a spring it makes the car look kind of cool and slammed...but this isn't much use when I need to be able to move the car about.
Driver's side.
Passenger side.
Stance y0!
SLAMMED!
I rummaged in the garage, couldn't find anything useful, rummaged in the storage and found a bin of tubular steel...
Driver's spring.
Passenger..."spring".
I fitted my new...spring...and the car is not sat at pretty much the correct height on both sides.
Driver's side sitting well.
Passenger side sitting well.
I now need to turn the car around and haul he engine out, wheel it down the hill into the garage and put it into the cab. Those will be jobs for the bank holiday weekend I think. I also need to do loads of work on other parts of the cab and want to clean the engine bay before I drop the replacement engine in.
Ok so I've been a bit lax with updates...and with working on the car if I'm honest. The main reason for this is because I found out that there was a 325i locally going cheap. This meant I have spent the last couple of weeks getting my second E30 and sorting out some problems on it and ensuring that I removed a few choice parts I needed for the cab.
The engine on the new one runs brilliantly as can bea heard in the below video:
The issue with the car is that the rear drive gear was in the boot and not attached to the underside, as I was after the engine and some other parts this really didn't phase me in the slightest. I have spent the last couple of weekends sorting out all the parts/bolts etc. and worked on getting the beam, hubs and wheels back on.
I found out that one of the bolts I needed was missing a nut and also that a rear spring was missing. The spring didn't bother me as I figured I could work something out for that, the nut though was for the rear beam mounting bolt and without it meant I couldn't do much at all. Instead of finding a replacement nut I ended up going to my local building suppliers and found a bolt of approximately the right length and some nuts and washers. If the car was going back on the road I would NOT be bodging it back together, but as I only need the car to be rolling it doesn't matter so long as it is held somehow for the moment.
I got back from work tonight and fitted my shiney new bolt and tested the strength of it...it seemed fairly stable so I reattached the wishbones, with hubs still on...one has a half shaft still attached because it is rusted in place by the nut and the air powered impact gun wouldn't shift it.
Driver's side hub & beam on.
Driver's side beam bolt.
Passenger side hub & beam on.
Passenger side beam replacement bolt/bodge.
Put the wheels back on (no discs on the hubs and handbrake lines are cut anyway) and began to lower it.
Driver's side wheel on.
Passenger side wheel on.
Remember I said I only had one spring...well...without a spring it makes the car look kind of cool and slammed...but this isn't much use when I need to be able to move the car about.
Driver's side.
Passenger side.
Stance y0!
SLAMMED!
I rummaged in the garage, couldn't find anything useful, rummaged in the storage and found a bin of tubular steel...
Driver's spring.
Passenger..."spring".
I fitted my new...spring...and the car is not sat at pretty much the correct height on both sides.
Driver's side sitting well.
Passenger side sitting well.
I now need to turn the car around and haul he engine out, wheel it down the hill into the garage and put it into the cab. Those will be jobs for the bank holiday weekend I think. I also need to do loads of work on other parts of the cab and want to clean the engine bay before I drop the replacement engine in.
Associate
Pah, that valve->piston damage is weak this is what happens if you do the job properly 
.
.
Hahahaha good work on that engine there.
What was that off? and did you do it?
What was that off? and did you do it?
Associate
Thats a Renault F4R-730 from a Clio 172, no not my personal handywork but seen several others do similar thats probably the best effort though.
Tends to happen with cheap valves being fitted or not replacing after cambelt failure, the heads are friction welded onto the stems. OEM ones get weakend after the failure and cheapo ones aren't up to 7krpm+.
Can see the valve head on the corner of the block in the second photo its survived quite well, the rest of the engine not so much.
Tends to happen with cheap valves being fitted or not replacing after cambelt failure, the heads are friction welded onto the stems. OEM ones get weakend after the failure and cheapo ones aren't up to 7krpm+.
Can see the valve head on the corner of the block in the second photo its survived quite well, the rest of the engine not so much.
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Days Six, Seven & Eight - 04/06/2012 - 06/06/2012
Interior!
After getting the wheels back on the touring I decided I should go back to removing the interior of the cab to check the heater core for mayo and under the carpet for rust. I also decided that the instrument cluster needed to come out (due to blown bulbs) and that the whole dash could potentially do with coming out due to cracks.
First up I needed a coaster for my cup of tea, so I mocked one up:
M20B25 coffee table / coaster.
After that genius idea and being fuled with tea I cracked on and started to remove the passenger side door card because the window refused to go down on electric and I didn't want to wipe it out when removing the dash. I then struggled loads with removing the window regulator due to it being in the 'up' position but I got it out and it appears that it gets stuck on the final tooth it you're not careful. Lubed it up with some spray grease and it ran much better but still gets stuck on the final tooth every now and then. I'll have to test it once refitted to see if it happens insitu as it is hard to tell with it in my hands flexing about.
Empty door.
Window regulator.
I then decided to remove, well, the entire dash. To do this I methodically removed random parts. Steering wheel, under dash covers, centre console, glove box. All of these are held on via various small nuts and bolts and come off really easily so there are no pictures of those coming out.
Once I'd stripped everything I needed from the dash I then wondered how to get the damn thing out, wiggled it about a few times, didn't get anywhere. Checked online...not a simple task, you need to unhook it from the A pilars and from the centre of the windscreen area. Centre area and passenger side were nice and easy but due to the steering column being a big ol' bulky thing it was hard to unhook it on that side. I managed to get it out though with much frustration and was left with this.
Dashlesss dash area.
Many, many wires.
Heater vents.
Passneger side wiring.
Driver side wiring.
Next up for removal was the heater core as I wanted to check for mayo. This is not a fun removal on this car! I read a couple of guides on removing it they even had pictures, I then stuck my head under the wiring to look at my heater core...different. From doing some research it appears that the AC and non-AC cars have different heater cores with the former having a well thought out design that can be removed easily and the latter having a poor design that is a pain to remove. I have no AC.
Eventually I managed to get the feed and return pipes off, this involved removing the brake servo-pedal connection behind the glove box area, undoing some easy 8mm bolts on one pipe from there and then going into the enginebay to undo the other set of bolts on a pipe (long extension bar through the rubber seal in the bulkhead and onto the bolt head).
Heater core fouling on brake servo connection.
That brake servo bar proved to be a complete and utter ball ache but I got the heater core out in the end and flushed it through, some dirty water came out but no mayo thankfully.
Heater core side.
Heater core feed & return.
I then refitted the heater core once it was clean and dry, no point leaving it out of the car and having to worry about it at a later date really.
Carpet was then the next thing to be tackled. This is probably the most annoying thing I've removed so far in all honesty, but I did it. First I removed the trim that runs the length of the doors and pins the carpet in place, these are held on by some plastic push pegs, nice and simple. Then I pulled up the carpet at the driver and passenger rear foot wells to check the car's floor.
Passenger rear footwell.
Passenger sound proofing - damp.
Driver rear footwell.
Driver sound proofing - dry.
The sound proofing being damp on the passenger side worried me somewhat but the floor appears to be sound (bar the couple of specs of rust you can see in the pic). Over all this seemed good though so next I needed to remove the carpet itself. I had to remove a reinforcing bar from around the steering wheel as well as the throttle pedal from it's base. With these out some (read: loads) of wiggling each side about and tugging on it gave me some slight movement and progress from the front end. At this point I remembered that there are a few cables running through the hand brake hole from the rear of the car. These are the arial wire, speaker cables and *something*.
I disconnected the speaker wires and put that cable with the mess at the dash. I then pulled the arial wire through and put that in the rear bench area. Now for the *something* wire...I went into the boot, found the wire, found the end of it and it was a plug that appears to not have been used, ripped the plug off, pulled the wire back through the car and looked at the dash end of the wire. It appears to have been used for something like a sub due to the way it's been badly spliced into the stereo wiring.
With all the wires out of the way I was then able to pull the carpet out from under the heater box (no easy feat, most people cut the thing!) and throw it free from the car. What aided in the removing of the carpet was the fact I have no roof on the car (folded away at the moment) so could stand in it and pull it about.
Carpet out!
Passenger side footwell.
Driver side footwell.
Prop tunnel to dash mess.
The red and white cable in the above pictures is the one I believe to have been used for a sub or something in the boot, not very high grade so I'm unsure and the plug on the end made it seem like it should have been on something. But the plug was knackered and I'd not unplugged it from anything so I don't care for this wire.
As you've also spotted in the above pics, there is some rust on the driver side foot well. This is the connection for the base of the throttle pedal, it appears to be totally eaten by rust so I'm a bit worried as to how far it spreads under the thin sound proofing stuff (I'll have to pull that up soon).
Driver side rust.
Throttle connection rust.
Carpet underside.
Carpet top.
The carpet itself appears to be in a decent condition although the padding/sound proofing stuff appears to be a little damp on the passenger side rear foot well area but fine on the driver side. It is currently in the house to dry off and when I can I'll wet vac the whole thing (top side) and store it out of the way somewhere until I want to put it back in. I *may* dye it although I'm unsure on this, black carpet + black sport leather should look better than blue carpet with black sport leather is my thinking.
That pretty much wraps up the bank holiday weekend update from me. I'd have done more to the car but, well, long weekend...had to enjoy it too.
Interior!
After getting the wheels back on the touring I decided I should go back to removing the interior of the cab to check the heater core for mayo and under the carpet for rust. I also decided that the instrument cluster needed to come out (due to blown bulbs) and that the whole dash could potentially do with coming out due to cracks.
First up I needed a coaster for my cup of tea, so I mocked one up:
M20B25 coffee table / coaster.
After that genius idea and being fuled with tea I cracked on and started to remove the passenger side door card because the window refused to go down on electric and I didn't want to wipe it out when removing the dash. I then struggled loads with removing the window regulator due to it being in the 'up' position but I got it out and it appears that it gets stuck on the final tooth it you're not careful. Lubed it up with some spray grease and it ran much better but still gets stuck on the final tooth every now and then. I'll have to test it once refitted to see if it happens insitu as it is hard to tell with it in my hands flexing about.
Empty door.
Window regulator.
I then decided to remove, well, the entire dash. To do this I methodically removed random parts. Steering wheel, under dash covers, centre console, glove box. All of these are held on via various small nuts and bolts and come off really easily so there are no pictures of those coming out.
Once I'd stripped everything I needed from the dash I then wondered how to get the damn thing out, wiggled it about a few times, didn't get anywhere. Checked online...not a simple task, you need to unhook it from the A pilars and from the centre of the windscreen area. Centre area and passenger side were nice and easy but due to the steering column being a big ol' bulky thing it was hard to unhook it on that side. I managed to get it out though with much frustration and was left with this.
Dashlesss dash area.
Many, many wires.
Heater vents.
Passneger side wiring.
Driver side wiring.
Next up for removal was the heater core as I wanted to check for mayo. This is not a fun removal on this car! I read a couple of guides on removing it they even had pictures, I then stuck my head under the wiring to look at my heater core...different. From doing some research it appears that the AC and non-AC cars have different heater cores with the former having a well thought out design that can be removed easily and the latter having a poor design that is a pain to remove. I have no AC.
Eventually I managed to get the feed and return pipes off, this involved removing the brake servo-pedal connection behind the glove box area, undoing some easy 8mm bolts on one pipe from there and then going into the enginebay to undo the other set of bolts on a pipe (long extension bar through the rubber seal in the bulkhead and onto the bolt head).
Heater core fouling on brake servo connection.
That brake servo bar proved to be a complete and utter ball ache but I got the heater core out in the end and flushed it through, some dirty water came out but no mayo thankfully.
Heater core side.
Heater core feed & return.
I then refitted the heater core once it was clean and dry, no point leaving it out of the car and having to worry about it at a later date really.
Carpet was then the next thing to be tackled. This is probably the most annoying thing I've removed so far in all honesty, but I did it. First I removed the trim that runs the length of the doors and pins the carpet in place, these are held on by some plastic push pegs, nice and simple. Then I pulled up the carpet at the driver and passenger rear foot wells to check the car's floor.
Passenger rear footwell.
Passenger sound proofing - damp.
Driver rear footwell.
Driver sound proofing - dry.
The sound proofing being damp on the passenger side worried me somewhat but the floor appears to be sound (bar the couple of specs of rust you can see in the pic). Over all this seemed good though so next I needed to remove the carpet itself. I had to remove a reinforcing bar from around the steering wheel as well as the throttle pedal from it's base. With these out some (read: loads) of wiggling each side about and tugging on it gave me some slight movement and progress from the front end. At this point I remembered that there are a few cables running through the hand brake hole from the rear of the car. These are the arial wire, speaker cables and *something*.
I disconnected the speaker wires and put that cable with the mess at the dash. I then pulled the arial wire through and put that in the rear bench area. Now for the *something* wire...I went into the boot, found the wire, found the end of it and it was a plug that appears to not have been used, ripped the plug off, pulled the wire back through the car and looked at the dash end of the wire. It appears to have been used for something like a sub due to the way it's been badly spliced into the stereo wiring.
With all the wires out of the way I was then able to pull the carpet out from under the heater box (no easy feat, most people cut the thing!) and throw it free from the car. What aided in the removing of the carpet was the fact I have no roof on the car (folded away at the moment) so could stand in it and pull it about.
Carpet out!
Passenger side footwell.
Driver side footwell.
Prop tunnel to dash mess.
The red and white cable in the above pictures is the one I believe to have been used for a sub or something in the boot, not very high grade so I'm unsure and the plug on the end made it seem like it should have been on something. But the plug was knackered and I'd not unplugged it from anything so I don't care for this wire.
As you've also spotted in the above pics, there is some rust on the driver side foot well. This is the connection for the base of the throttle pedal, it appears to be totally eaten by rust so I'm a bit worried as to how far it spreads under the thin sound proofing stuff (I'll have to pull that up soon).
Driver side rust.
Throttle connection rust.
Carpet underside.
Carpet top.
The carpet itself appears to be in a decent condition although the padding/sound proofing stuff appears to be a little damp on the passenger side rear foot well area but fine on the driver side. It is currently in the house to dry off and when I can I'll wet vac the whole thing (top side) and store it out of the way somewhere until I want to put it back in. I *may* dye it although I'm unsure on this, black carpet + black sport leather should look better than blue carpet with black sport leather is my thinking.
That pretty much wraps up the bank holiday weekend update from me. I'd have done more to the car but, well, long weekend...had to enjoy it too.
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Day Nine - 09/06/2012
Touring it apart!
After the touring was dump here by the seller it was facing the wrong way to easily remove the engine and get it to the garage. Last night my brother came round and we turned the car around which meant I could get on with removing the engine to make it ready for the convertible.
I started work on the car around 11:30 and finished around 19:00, this included lunch of 30-40 mins and some fannying around when the clouds decided to empty on me. In total I think I can cut down an engine removal to just a few hours, provided I have all the tools I need with me (kept leaving some in the garage today), anyway, on with the update.
Why so sad?
First up, bonnet off, nice and simple, couple of bolts on the hinge, one by the gas spring and a spring clip on the gas spring.
No bonnet.
Radiator. Again very simple, couple of screws and of course the water pipes.
No radiator.
Side view.
Air box & throttle body. Couple of bolts, couple of jubilee clips, done.
No airbox.
No throttle body.
Viscous fan. This is simple enough to remove although only if you have the right tool. Luckily for me when I first had a BMW 4 years ago I bought the right tool, a 32mm open ended spanner.
No fan.
The water pump, alternator and power steering pump pulleys all look a bit worse for wear really on this engine so I'll be using the parts from the convertible.
Rusty pulleys.
Pipework & dissy cap. Pipework is simple enough to remove and so is the dissy cap, unless of course one of the bolts is rusted so much that not even Irwin bolt removers will do anything for it. I needed to get the dissy off so ended up having to snap the dissy casing at one of the bolts. I will drill/cut the bolt out later now the engine is out and I have space to do so. You can see the stub of the dissy cap that is left in the below pics.
No dissy.
No dissy, no air.
Alternator. Rust...everywhere. Right this was more than a little irritating, went to undo one of the bolts that holds the tensioner bar on and the head snapped off the bolt. I should be able to do some cutting and get the damn thing out though which isn't too much of a worry. It does go through the cam belt casing and into the block though which means it'll be a major arse if I can't get it out as I need the alternator to be tensioned. Too late now though it's happened.
No alt.
Power steering pump. Once again, nice and simple. As I'm only removing it from the engine and not the car I just needed to undo a couple of bolts and hang it out of the way.
No pas.
Wiring loom. Various different wires go all over the place and are all attached to one big metal bar just below the inlet plenum. Not too much of an annoyance to remove really but a bit of faff working out how/where to move things around to get them all out of the way.
No loom.
Exhaust, prop and gearbox mounts. With the nose in the air I could then remove the exhaust down pipe from the manifold and then the gearbox mounting bolts too. The exhaust is not great to remove as access is awkward (especially on this Touring as it has been lowered a little) but once the four bolts are undone it comes away nice and easily. There is also a bracket on the gearbox that holds the exhaust, again, couple bolts and it is off. Make sure to do this after the downpipe/manifold bolts.
The prop is simple to undo, three 17mm bolts hold the prop to the 'box, undo them, no need to try and shift the prop back, once the engine is moved forwards a little it'll come off easily.
The gearbox mounts are very simple to remove, few bolts and the mounts are off, few more and the mount frame is off too.
Gearbox without mounts.
Engine mounts/removal. When I removed the convertible's engine I removed the inlet, this was due to the fact I wanted to know what had gone on with the engine, I did not need to remove it though to get the engine out, so on the touring I've left it on.
The rear engine hoist point is right down the back of the engine by the gearbox, not easy to see but it is there, big fat ring. The front one is nice and obvious above the cam shaft pulley.
I connected up the crane, took off the slack (lifted the front of the car slightly with the use of the crane) and then removed the engine mounts at the car side. Once the nut on each mount was off I then removed the four bolts on each mount that secure it to the engine. I was aiming to do it without removing the mounts but it didn't want to come free and in all honesty isn't an issue really.
Engine was free floating now so it was a case of using the load leveller to get the front of the engine in the air and the gearbox pointing down then to get the sump up and over the front of the car then levelling it off and getting the gearbox past the front and down onto the floor.
Engine gone.
Empty bay - driver side.
Empty bay - passenger side..
Engine & gearbox out.
Engine & gearbox.
As I needed to get the engine to the garage I split the gearbox (don't want to use the one from the touring, I expect it has had a hard life) from the engine and loaded the engine onto a garden trolley. I proceeded to take it down the gravel slope into the garage...nearly had it run away from me due to it's weight and momentum it built up. Got it in there though and loaded it onto a dolly so I can move it about and work on it.
i6 powered garden trolley.
Engine about to escape.
Old vs "new".
"new" engine and the car it is going in.
That's all for today, ran out of energy once I'd done all that. Did it all on my own again and to be honest it really isn't a difficult task at all, provided you have the tools which I realise a lot of people don't have an engine crane in their garage.
Tomorrow I plan on checking on some rust on the convertible and cleaning up the engine bay as well as the replacement engine ready for putting them in sometime next week.
As I like to share and use my multiple cameras for things I set up my DSLR so I could take pictures at regular intervals to create a time lapse video. Unfortunately I don't have the gear to make a true time lapse video but I took a fair few shots through the process of removing the engine and compiled them into a video for your enjoyment.
Touring it apart!
After the touring was dump here by the seller it was facing the wrong way to easily remove the engine and get it to the garage. Last night my brother came round and we turned the car around which meant I could get on with removing the engine to make it ready for the convertible.
I started work on the car around 11:30 and finished around 19:00, this included lunch of 30-40 mins and some fannying around when the clouds decided to empty on me. In total I think I can cut down an engine removal to just a few hours, provided I have all the tools I need with me (kept leaving some in the garage today), anyway, on with the update.
Why so sad?
First up, bonnet off, nice and simple, couple of bolts on the hinge, one by the gas spring and a spring clip on the gas spring.
No bonnet.
Radiator. Again very simple, couple of screws and of course the water pipes.
No radiator.
Side view.
Air box & throttle body. Couple of bolts, couple of jubilee clips, done.
No airbox.
No throttle body.
Viscous fan. This is simple enough to remove although only if you have the right tool. Luckily for me when I first had a BMW 4 years ago I bought the right tool, a 32mm open ended spanner.
No fan.
The water pump, alternator and power steering pump pulleys all look a bit worse for wear really on this engine so I'll be using the parts from the convertible.
Rusty pulleys.
Pipework & dissy cap. Pipework is simple enough to remove and so is the dissy cap, unless of course one of the bolts is rusted so much that not even Irwin bolt removers will do anything for it. I needed to get the dissy off so ended up having to snap the dissy casing at one of the bolts. I will drill/cut the bolt out later now the engine is out and I have space to do so. You can see the stub of the dissy cap that is left in the below pics.
No dissy.
No dissy, no air.
Alternator. Rust...everywhere. Right this was more than a little irritating, went to undo one of the bolts that holds the tensioner bar on and the head snapped off the bolt. I should be able to do some cutting and get the damn thing out though which isn't too much of a worry. It does go through the cam belt casing and into the block though which means it'll be a major arse if I can't get it out as I need the alternator to be tensioned. Too late now though it's happened.
No alt.
Power steering pump. Once again, nice and simple. As I'm only removing it from the engine and not the car I just needed to undo a couple of bolts and hang it out of the way.
No pas.
Wiring loom. Various different wires go all over the place and are all attached to one big metal bar just below the inlet plenum. Not too much of an annoyance to remove really but a bit of faff working out how/where to move things around to get them all out of the way.
No loom.
Exhaust, prop and gearbox mounts. With the nose in the air I could then remove the exhaust down pipe from the manifold and then the gearbox mounting bolts too. The exhaust is not great to remove as access is awkward (especially on this Touring as it has been lowered a little) but once the four bolts are undone it comes away nice and easily. There is also a bracket on the gearbox that holds the exhaust, again, couple bolts and it is off. Make sure to do this after the downpipe/manifold bolts.
The prop is simple to undo, three 17mm bolts hold the prop to the 'box, undo them, no need to try and shift the prop back, once the engine is moved forwards a little it'll come off easily.
The gearbox mounts are very simple to remove, few bolts and the mounts are off, few more and the mount frame is off too.
Gearbox without mounts.
Engine mounts/removal. When I removed the convertible's engine I removed the inlet, this was due to the fact I wanted to know what had gone on with the engine, I did not need to remove it though to get the engine out, so on the touring I've left it on.
The rear engine hoist point is right down the back of the engine by the gearbox, not easy to see but it is there, big fat ring. The front one is nice and obvious above the cam shaft pulley.
I connected up the crane, took off the slack (lifted the front of the car slightly with the use of the crane) and then removed the engine mounts at the car side. Once the nut on each mount was off I then removed the four bolts on each mount that secure it to the engine. I was aiming to do it without removing the mounts but it didn't want to come free and in all honesty isn't an issue really.
Engine was free floating now so it was a case of using the load leveller to get the front of the engine in the air and the gearbox pointing down then to get the sump up and over the front of the car then levelling it off and getting the gearbox past the front and down onto the floor.
Engine gone.
Empty bay - driver side.
Empty bay - passenger side..
Engine & gearbox out.
Engine & gearbox.
As I needed to get the engine to the garage I split the gearbox (don't want to use the one from the touring, I expect it has had a hard life) from the engine and loaded the engine onto a garden trolley. I proceeded to take it down the gravel slope into the garage...nearly had it run away from me due to it's weight and momentum it built up. Got it in there though and loaded it onto a dolly so I can move it about and work on it.
i6 powered garden trolley.
Engine about to escape.
Old vs "new".
"new" engine and the car it is going in.
That's all for today, ran out of energy once I'd done all that. Did it all on my own again and to be honest it really isn't a difficult task at all, provided you have the tools which I realise a lot of people don't have an engine crane in their garage.
Tomorrow I plan on checking on some rust on the convertible and cleaning up the engine bay as well as the replacement engine ready for putting them in sometime next week.
As I like to share and use my multiple cameras for things I set up my DSLR so I could take pictures at regular intervals to create a time lapse video. Unfortunately I don't have the gear to make a true time lapse video but I took a fair few shots through the process of removing the engine and compiled them into a video for your enjoyment.
Day Ten - 09/06/2012
Minor rust.
Today I decided that I'd do some cleaning as well as sort the rust in the front foot wells, battery tray and front frame area.
As I'd shown to some extent in a previous update there is some rust in the driver and passenger foot wells. I spotted some where the bracket for the glove box mounts to the car at the firewall and thought I’d got some infamous firewall rust damage, attacked it with the wire brush and it turned out to just be surface rust from the glove box mount so not actually the car. This made me feel better, I then decided to check the extent of the rust on the floor level under the sound proofing stuff so got out a big screwdriver and a hammer, chiselled it away. I found that the rust was a fairly minor patch of surface rust, wire brush, wire wool and Jenolite treatment and all is sound.
Passenger floor rust.
Cleaning up.
After I'd cleaned up the passenger side I went on to the driver side. This I assumed would need a new floor panel due to the state of the throttle pedal attachment location. Oddly though I cleaned this up and beat it up with a big screw driver and it is actually solid, I guess the front carpet was sodden at some point or something.
I then also spotted a minor rust patch....prodded it with the screw driver and....it went through. Nuts! I actually wasn't too phased by this really, I'd expected to be punching multiple holes through the floor on the passenger side and around the throttle pedal location. I cleaned up the rust in the foot well and then climbed under the car to inspect the rust underneath. Removed a heat shield, found where the screwdriver went through and cleaned the under seal off from the rust area and around it. This revealed that the rust wasn't too bad, the small hole and a line of rust running about 3inches along a beam. Again, I cleaned it up and treated it. Due to the hole I'll need to weld a plate on underneath and reapply under seal.
Throttle pedal rust.
Cleaned up ready for treatment.
Treated.
Ready for protection.
Converted rust.
Minor rust.
Not so minor, cleaned up.
Rust hole.
Closer with removed under seal.
Cleaned up.
Battery tray was the next object to tackle, easy enough really, wire brush the surface areas that looked bad, poke about with the screwdriver, still solid. Again then out with the wire wool and Jenolite to convert the rust.
Battery tray.
Main rust area treated.
I then went on to the front cross members, between the front wings at the top where the bonnet bolts on and the radiator sit etc. Small patches of rust on bolt holes, cleaned them up and treated them. I also too the opportunity to clean up the oil, grime etc. from the front area of the car. I cleaned up the main H section of the front structure and shall do the wings and then the subframe later in the week. Once it is all tidied up I should have a nice fresh looking engine bay for the engine to drop into (I'll clean up the engine too).
Driver side top dirty.
Passenger side top dirty.
Top cross member top dirty.
Driver side top cleaned up.
Passenger side top cleaned up.
Top cross member top cleaned up.
Passenger side upright dirty.
Passenger side upright cleaned up.
Passenger side upright underneath cleaned up.
Passenger side upright cleaned up angle.
Passenger side upright cleaned.
Driver side upright cleaned up.
Front end cleaned up.
With all the rust cleaned up and treated it was time to protect the bare and treated metal. I cracked out the masking tape and newspaper (well, supplement magazine as I couldn't find a newspaper), masked off the areas I wanted to spray so I wouldn't cover everything in paint. To paint/prime those areas I picked up a Zinc based grey primer, for the foot wells I'll be firing on quite a few layers to protect it, I may throw on some solver top but it doesn't seem worthwhile when the carpet will cover the painted areas.
For the battery tray and the front cross member though I gave them a few blow overs with the primer but I will need to buy some Lachs Silber Metallic 203 paint which I'll hen do a few blow overs from that to make it tie in at least slightly with the current paint. As these aren't external areas like wings, bonnet etc. I don't mind if it doesn't tie in fully. They will mostly be covered by parts anyway but some will be visible so I don't want to have primer visible.
With regards to painting using the rattle can I decided to do gentle blow overs to build up a layer rather than holding down and spraying. I put down a few layers on all the areas that I was working on and they appear to be covered well and hopefully that will stop the car from falling to pieces when it is back on the road.
Passenger side foot well blown over and masking removed.
Passenger side rust blown over.
Throttle pedal masked up.
Throttle pedal blown over.
Throttle pedal blown over again.
Battery tray masked up.
Battery tray from above.
Battery tray blown over.
Battery tray blown over close up.
Front end blown over.
Driver side upright blown over.
Passenger side upright blown over.
Minor rust.
Today I decided that I'd do some cleaning as well as sort the rust in the front foot wells, battery tray and front frame area.
As I'd shown to some extent in a previous update there is some rust in the driver and passenger foot wells. I spotted some where the bracket for the glove box mounts to the car at the firewall and thought I’d got some infamous firewall rust damage, attacked it with the wire brush and it turned out to just be surface rust from the glove box mount so not actually the car. This made me feel better, I then decided to check the extent of the rust on the floor level under the sound proofing stuff so got out a big screwdriver and a hammer, chiselled it away. I found that the rust was a fairly minor patch of surface rust, wire brush, wire wool and Jenolite treatment and all is sound.
Passenger floor rust.
Cleaning up.
After I'd cleaned up the passenger side I went on to the driver side. This I assumed would need a new floor panel due to the state of the throttle pedal attachment location. Oddly though I cleaned this up and beat it up with a big screw driver and it is actually solid, I guess the front carpet was sodden at some point or something.
I then also spotted a minor rust patch....prodded it with the screw driver and....it went through. Nuts! I actually wasn't too phased by this really, I'd expected to be punching multiple holes through the floor on the passenger side and around the throttle pedal location. I cleaned up the rust in the foot well and then climbed under the car to inspect the rust underneath. Removed a heat shield, found where the screwdriver went through and cleaned the under seal off from the rust area and around it. This revealed that the rust wasn't too bad, the small hole and a line of rust running about 3inches along a beam. Again, I cleaned it up and treated it. Due to the hole I'll need to weld a plate on underneath and reapply under seal.
Throttle pedal rust.
Cleaned up ready for treatment.
Treated.
Ready for protection.
Converted rust.
Minor rust.
Not so minor, cleaned up.
Rust hole.
Closer with removed under seal.
Cleaned up.
Battery tray was the next object to tackle, easy enough really, wire brush the surface areas that looked bad, poke about with the screwdriver, still solid. Again then out with the wire wool and Jenolite to convert the rust.
Battery tray.
Main rust area treated.
I then went on to the front cross members, between the front wings at the top where the bonnet bolts on and the radiator sit etc. Small patches of rust on bolt holes, cleaned them up and treated them. I also too the opportunity to clean up the oil, grime etc. from the front area of the car. I cleaned up the main H section of the front structure and shall do the wings and then the subframe later in the week. Once it is all tidied up I should have a nice fresh looking engine bay for the engine to drop into (I'll clean up the engine too).
Driver side top dirty.
Passenger side top dirty.
Top cross member top dirty.
Driver side top cleaned up.
Passenger side top cleaned up.
Top cross member top cleaned up.
Passenger side upright dirty.
Passenger side upright cleaned up.
Passenger side upright underneath cleaned up.
Passenger side upright cleaned up angle.
Passenger side upright cleaned.
Driver side upright cleaned up.
Front end cleaned up.
With all the rust cleaned up and treated it was time to protect the bare and treated metal. I cracked out the masking tape and newspaper (well, supplement magazine as I couldn't find a newspaper), masked off the areas I wanted to spray so I wouldn't cover everything in paint. To paint/prime those areas I picked up a Zinc based grey primer, for the foot wells I'll be firing on quite a few layers to protect it, I may throw on some solver top but it doesn't seem worthwhile when the carpet will cover the painted areas.
For the battery tray and the front cross member though I gave them a few blow overs with the primer but I will need to buy some Lachs Silber Metallic 203 paint which I'll hen do a few blow overs from that to make it tie in at least slightly with the current paint. As these aren't external areas like wings, bonnet etc. I don't mind if it doesn't tie in fully. They will mostly be covered by parts anyway but some will be visible so I don't want to have primer visible.
With regards to painting using the rattle can I decided to do gentle blow overs to build up a layer rather than holding down and spraying. I put down a few layers on all the areas that I was working on and they appear to be covered well and hopefully that will stop the car from falling to pieces when it is back on the road.
Passenger side foot well blown over and masking removed.
Passenger side rust blown over.
Throttle pedal masked up.
Throttle pedal blown over.
Throttle pedal blown over again.
Battery tray masked up.
Battery tray from above.
Battery tray blown over.
Battery tray blown over close up.
Front end blown over.
Driver side upright blown over.
Passenger side upright blown over.
Soldato
Awesome
Loving the time lapse vid I wasn't sure what the camera was for when I saw the picture on Facebook!
How much did you acquire the touring for, and what was wrong with it? Sorry if it's been mentioned
Loving the time lapse vid
I wasn't sure what the camera was for when I saw the picture on Facebook!How much did you acquire the touring for, and what was wrong with it? Sorry if it's been mentioned
Awesome
Loving the time lapse vid
Cheers...and the video was posted on there too.
How much did you acquire the touring for, and what was wrong with it? Sorry if it's been mentioned
I got it for a little bit less than the convertible, £400. About £100 more than I'd wanted to spend on the car (it was on ebay) but I can recoupe a fair bit of the cost just by selling off parts from it so it isn't too bad (4xwheels = £150 as a start).
The previous owner had taken the diff, rear beam and hubs off to replace the bushes in them all, then didn't and left the car for a few years. It was local to me which was a big plus and why I wasn't so concerned about spending the money on it, the seller even kindly dropped it off at mine for a couple beer tokens.
