Need for Speed Shift - Time Trial Championship ** Season 3 ** (Multiplatform)

Great combo mercyless. Love this car & track

Struggling to get/string good corners together for one lap.

T-1 - Sometimes get this right in 3rd, but find I have to drop to 2nd if I get the entry wrong. The problem is 9 times out of 10 I get this corner right on the start lap.

T-4 The Old Hairpin - Same as T-1 really. Get it right I'm in 4th with good revs, Get it slightly wrong however & I drop too many revs to stay in 4th so drop to 3rd loosing time.

T-6 The right hander - Suffering corner exit understeer here. Carry just a little too much speed here on corner entry & gonna run wide on exit.

T-7 The right curve before the long straight - This car handles this corner quite well. Good grip levels for a wide or narrow line.

The other corners, the 'S' bend & hairpins are more about getting your braking point correct. Nothing to challenging here. Saying that though, you can have a good lap upto this point a be a bit too brave on the brakes & going deeper into the corner on entry than you would have liked.

Anyways improvement from me
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OK, in the 23's, let's see where this goes.

Am I right in thinking you can't alter the car settings with the loaner car?

Thanks for the advice above btw NIKAZ.

Post a screen shot Alex. That's a good time.

Yeah, no tuning on Reward, Loaner or Stock cars.

No problem.
 
A little faster:

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This car is an absolute dog in the tight corners, Nick are you taking the hairpins in 2nd? I find I'm having to drop right down to first to get any sort of decent line.
 
Best I can do for tonight, I was nearly a full second up on this in the second split only to lose concentration, this one is definitely going to take the whole week to master.

shift2010-04-1900-18-48-65.jpg
 
Yeah getting better, I do keep messing up the chicane and the hairpin though that's where i need to work on my driving and i will be top no doubt losing so much time at those two sections :(
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Hi guys. :) I guess I'll be back to play at some point, not sure when, but currently gotten back into continuing a dracula point n click adventure as I fancied a relaxing story driven game. So the wheel is packed away and sitting atop my wardrobe again. Well done to dan for the last couple of races. Shame some of the other newer players that showed up last week didn't seem to give it more of a go. Never mind though, maybe they'll try again at some point. ;)
 
Just a thought but if we are to have a season 4 would it be worth setting a thread up for it now with something like **NEW PLAYERS NEEDED, SHOW INTEREST HERE** in the title or similar to build up interest before Saturday? It would be great to get participant numbers back up a bit and at present people wont know that we have a brand new season upcoming unless they pay attention to this thread.

It was great in seasons 1 and 2 to see times being posted more regularly and a lot more activity in the thread in general. I think that might draw one or two new players in.
 
Slight improvement!!!!
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Really struggling in last sector, loosing lot of time in chicane and 2 hairpins. What sort time you guys (Nick & Dan) getting in first 2 sectors.
 
Slight improvement!!!!


Really struggling in last sector, loosing lot of time in chicane and 2 hairpins. What sort time you guys (Nick & Dan) getting in first 2 sectors.

From memory mine are something like high 20's first, high 47's second mate. I'm am having the same trouble, as I said above I am right down to first gear on both the hairpins to try to get the best exit I can, don't know about Nick..
 
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A little faster:

<snip>

This car is an absolute dog in the tight corners, Nick are you taking the hairpins in 2nd? I find I'm having to drop right down to first to get any sort of decent line.

Yeah, I'm taking the hairpins (& chicane) in 2nd.
Where I'm losing time is in the first two sectors compared to wheel users I believe. S2 is about 48's, not sure S1.
 
I'll upload if I get a respectable time, but I've cracked out the DFGT, currently fiddling with settings.

What degrees of rotation does this game use? Can it use above 270? Just wondering what's best. I'm using some G25 settings atm, but it's still a little twitchy for my liking. Can't get a clean lap in yet though.

Is there a difference between driving modes i.e. normal and pro etc? Is it just the available settings? If so, which is best?

Sorry about all the questions. On the upside, no more silly car pivoting with the wheel. Must be the way I use the pad (not gently!), but the wheel is actually almost OK for small corrections, though fairly often still goes a bit mad. Just needs dialling in I guess.

EDIT: I just can't match the pad times with the wheel. Still feels like I'm driving a car with zero downforce. I'd appreciate any help with DFGT settings if anyone is using one.
 
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I'll upload if I get a respectable time, but I've cracked out the DFGT, currently fiddling with settings.

What degrees of rotation does this game use? Can it use above 270? Just wondering what's best. I'm using some G25 settings atm, but it's still a little twitchy for my liking. Can't get a clean lap in yet though.

Is there a difference between driving modes i.e. normal and pro etc? Is it just the available settings? If so, which is best?

Sorry about all the questions. On the upside, no more silly car pivoting with the wheel. Must be the way I use the pad (not gently!), but the wheel is actually almost OK for small corrections, though fairly often still goes a bit mad. Just needs dialling in I guess.

EDIT: I just can't match the pad times with the wheel. Still feels like I'm driving a car with zero downforce. I'd appreciate any help with DFGT settings if anyone is using one.
I don't use a wheel myself Alex. I'll see if I can find some settings used by others. I'm pretty sure rotation is dependant on the wheel you use.
I'd suggest starting with Normal or Experienced for both pad & wheel, Pro is 100% for wheel/peddle users only as Pro others the most realistic handling model where finesse is required that only a wheel can provide.

Guide to SHIFT Settings

A quick definition is provided below to help determine what's good to touch or best-left unaltered. Don't forget to use the DEFAULTS option if settings get tweaked too far.

Steering Deadzone - The smaller the value the smaller the deadzone. For steering wheels it is recommended to have this value at 0%. | NOTE: These next few deadzone settings for a gamepad are best-left unaltered.

Accelerator Deadzone - The basic description for all the deadzones are the same. For the initial range of motion no input is reported, and then starts when the end of he deadzone has been reached. On top of these additionl recommendations can be added.

Brake Deadzone - As above - For the initial range of motion no input is reported, and then starts when the end of he deadzone has been reached. On top of these additionl recommendations can be added.

Steering Sensitivity - This setting adjusts how sensitive the steering across the input span. With 50% sensitivity it is equally as sensitive at the beginning of the range as at the end of the range. This can make the steering feel twitchy on a game pad, thus it is recommended to have a lower sensitivy setting which makes the steering a bit less sensitive for small inputs. For a steering wheel it is recommended to have this setting at 50%.

Acceleration Sensitivity - Same as above, a value lower than 50% means the input is less sensitive in the beginning of the input span.

Braking Sensitivity - As defined above. If the default setting is not responsive enough (may well become car & performance specific), it's recommended to make slight adjustments & test.

Speed Steering Sensitivity - This setting reduces the sensitivity of steering at speed. A high value applies maximum effect to make the car stable to drive down straights with a gamepad. Lowering the value will make the car feel sensitive and twitchy at higher speeds. For a multiturn steering wheel it is recommended to set this value to 0%, for other wheels a value around 50% is recommended.

Inverse Shifting - Reverses the default controller shift buttons.

Camera Y Axis - Inverts the R-stick camera movement in game.

Wheel Lock - This determines how much of the available turn to turn lock to use for the steering wheel. On consoles this is set in degrees measured from lock to lock. On PC it is set as a percentage of the steerings wheels available lock. This can be fine tuned to suit the players preference, with less lock giving more sensitive steering, with too much lock the car will feel unresponsive.

FF Strength - Determines the strength of the force feedback effects, 0 means effects are muted, 10 gives the strongest effects.

This was posted by a Shift Developer regarding wheel setup
Shift Developer
My steering wheel feels unresponsive
It is recommend that you set the wheel to 360 degrees of turning lock and 0% speed sensitivity. We also recommend that you do not set the steering lock to anything higher than 450 degrees without then also adjusting the lock settings for your car in the advanced setup screens. Using the Logitech control panel set the steering lock to 360 degrees, then in-game select the appropriate preset for the wheel. Also using the in-game options set the speed sensitivity to 0% and ensure the steering deadzone is set to 0%. We recommend this as a good starting point however you may want to spend some time tweaking these values to better suit your driving style.

Couple of examples of user DFGT settings

Steering - Deadzone: 0%
Accel - Deadzone: 0%
Brakes - Deadzone: 0%
Steering Sensitivity: 50%
Accel - Sensitivity: 25%
Brakes - Sensitivity: 12%
Speed Steering Sensitivity: 0%
FFB: 10
Steering lock: 360
Reverse shifting: Off
Y-axis: Normal

or

Steering - Deadzone: 0%
Accel - Deadzone: 0%
Brakes - Deadzone: 0%
Steering Sensitivity: 70%
Accel - Sensitivity: 25%
Brakes - Sensitivity: 50%
Speed Steering Sensitivity: 0%
FFB: 10
Steering lock: 360
Reverse shifting: Off
Y-axis: Normal
 
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Thanks a lot for that clarification. I did have a trawl through of the thread and found some G25 settings that were an improvement, though still not great unfortunately.

At the moment, I'm running all deadzones on 0% (and clutch 100% - DFGT doesn't have one).

Acceleration and brake sensitivities I've been varying between 50 and 0, especially acceleration. 0 gives a lot smoother power output from a corner compared to 50, so less spinning of the wheels and less need for aggressive TC. Braking I'm undecided, 50 was probably fine.

Steering sensitivity is a difficult one. It's actually OK on a value of around 15%, though does need maybe a little more, but the general twitchyness of the cars makes having 50 a little difficult to control sometimes. I think changing the degrees of rotation may help stabilise this, but it'll take a fair bit of testing it.

Wheel lock I'm leaving on 100%, I don't want the game to scale the wheel lock, it should be more predictable like that I think.

FF strength I've got on 5 or 6, tangible force but not wrenching out your hands. Sometimes a bit lower can help for fast laps I've found.

So normal/pro does actually change the handling model. OK, I think I was on experienced, but now I'm on normal, but I think experienced gave a better feel to the wheel movement, hard to describe. What I want really is to feel the car want to actually stick to the road a bit, rather than moving around so much. Not sure how this is achieved, may just be the quirk of the handling model. I thought the game would be a good balance of arcade and sim, but it doesn't really do both particularly well for me so far.
 
Thanks a lot for that clarification. I did have a trawl through of the thread and found some G25 settings that were an improvement, though still not great unfortunately.

At the moment, I'm running all deadzones on 0% (and clutch 100% - DFGT doesn't have one).

Acceleration and brake sensitivities I've been varying between 50 and 0, especially acceleration. 0 gives a lot smoother power output from a corner compared to 50, so less spinning of the wheels and less need for aggressive TC. Braking I'm undecided, 50 was probably fine.

Steering sensitivity is a difficult one. It's actually OK on a value of around 15%, though does need maybe a little more, but the general twitchyness of the cars makes having 50 a little difficult to control sometimes. I think changing the degrees of rotation may help stabilise this, but it'll take a fair bit of testing it.

Wheel lock I'm leaving on 100%, I don't want the game to scale the wheel lock, it should be more predictable like that I think.

FF strength I've got on 5 or 6, tangible force but not wrenching out your hands. Sometimes a bit lower can help for fast laps I've found.

So normal/pro does actually change the handling model. OK, I think I was on experienced, but now I'm on normal, but I think experienced gave a better feel to the wheel movement, hard to describe. What I want really is to feel the car want to actually stick to the road a bit, rather than moving around so much. Not sure how this is achieved, may just be the quirk of the handling model. I thought the game would be a good balance of arcade and sim, but it doesn't really do both particularly well for me so far.

Normal - Entry level for pad users. Slightly more grip, forgiving than Experienced.

Experienced - I use. Experienced pad user - Entry Wheel user. This setting gives a better feel than Normal imo. Bit hard to explain in words, sort of how I expect the car to behave in certain conditions. Like on a powerful RWD the rear has to be controlled (throttle control) to avoid excessive sliding. More concentration required when picking braking points, putting the power down especially out of corners.

Pro - Experienced Wheel users ONLY. Least amount of grip.
100% concentration required not only braking points, acceleration etc but also positioning the car on the track to strings perfect lines together. Very demanding.
 
Been working on tidying up the last sector and I'm a lot quicker now, trouble is I have lost the speed I had on the first two sectors. This time was from 48.30 on the second split, my best there is 47.75 so I know theres a lot more there, just got to try and put it all together - easier said than done...

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