Soldato
Hmm ok. Well, here are the things a tone control needs so confirm each one:
- Capacitor has a path to ground. Check the leg is soldered to the back of the pot, and that the pot has continuity to ground. I'd run a ground wire between the pots rather than rely on the copper foil.
- Other leg of capacitor is touching the signal chain. Check for continuity from the leg, to the bottom lug of the pot. Then check continuity from the middle lug of the pot, to the signal wire (the one running between all 3 switches and the volume pot. Should be continuity between all 5 points).
- The pot works. Measure resistance between the two unconnected lugs of the tone pot while turning the knob. At one end of the turn it should read 0 ohms/continuity, and at the other end of the knob's travel should be the maximum resistance of the pot, 250k or 500k or possibly 1M Ohm.
Outside of that the capacitor might be dead but it doesn't tend to happen. What's the value on it? Guitar capacitors tend to be .022uF or .047uF, written as 223 or 473 on the cap.
- Capacitor has a path to ground. Check the leg is soldered to the back of the pot, and that the pot has continuity to ground. I'd run a ground wire between the pots rather than rely on the copper foil.
- Other leg of capacitor is touching the signal chain. Check for continuity from the leg, to the bottom lug of the pot. Then check continuity from the middle lug of the pot, to the signal wire (the one running between all 3 switches and the volume pot. Should be continuity between all 5 points).
- The pot works. Measure resistance between the two unconnected lugs of the tone pot while turning the knob. At one end of the turn it should read 0 ohms/continuity, and at the other end of the knob's travel should be the maximum resistance of the pot, 250k or 500k or possibly 1M Ohm.
Outside of that the capacitor might be dead but it doesn't tend to happen. What's the value on it? Guitar capacitors tend to be .022uF or .047uF, written as 223 or 473 on the cap.
