Static pressure matters when pushing through components such as a radiator or heatsink.
This case has nothing obstructing the front part so these fans should be fine.
I will return them if they perform subpar.
Reviews seem gleeming.
Needing a CPU cooler for 5600X + New case fans.
Static pressure matters when pushing through components such as a radiator or heatsink.
This case has nothing obstructing the front part so these fans should be fine.
I will return them if they perform subpar.
Reviews seem gleeming.
For my 3900X my cooling is the following.
1) Artic thermal purifier to clean the CPU, I do this even on new CPU's
2) IC Diamond 24 paste (yes someone here still uses it).
3) Artic 34 CO CPU cooler. (the CO fans are better quality then the standard fans)
4) A second 120mm CO fan on other side of CPU cooler, so i'm push pull.
5) Silverstone FT02 with good bottom up airflow.
5) Then I run at stock with a 0.1 undervolt on the CPU.
Cinebench i'm seeing around 65c CPU temp, CPU cooler still pretty quiet as even under load not running full speed.
The main takeaway from above, is try one of the Artic 34 coolers with a push/pull configuration (they sell many variations) they work well, and are quiet operation.
1) Artic thermal purifier to clean the CPU, I do this even on new CPU's
2) IC Diamond 24 paste (yes someone here still uses it).
3) Artic 34 CO CPU cooler. (the CO fans are better quality then the standard fans)
4) A second 120mm CO fan on other side of CPU cooler, so i'm push pull.
5) Silverstone FT02 with good bottom up airflow.
5) Then I run at stock with a 0.1 undervolt on the CPU.
Cinebench i'm seeing around 65c CPU temp, CPU cooler still pretty quiet as even under load not running full speed.
The main takeaway from above, is try one of the Artic 34 coolers with a push/pull configuration (they sell many variations) they work well, and are quiet operation.
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Actually static pressure is pretty meaningless number for real word with keyword being that "static":
It's literally pressure when airflow is absolute zero.
And fan can have both better "airflow" and static pressure but actually have worser real world performance.
Only P-Q curve tells real performance in producing airflow when it matters.
https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress....w-specs-are-poor-measures-of-fan-performance/
As for that case it actually isn't that great for gaming PC with higher up graphics card at stock.
Front mesh is actually quite tight.
https://www.techpowerup.com/review/phanteks-eclipse-p200a-performance-itx-case/3.html
So if you have only one front fan it can just partially just recirculate warmed air from case.
Also rear exhaust fan has mediocre mesh.
But with side panel open that wouldn't matter.
Have you checked if heatsink feels any warm to finger?
If CPU under it is is running that hot also heatsink should be really warm, unless it doesn't transfer heat from the base to fin stack.
Eclipse P200A flows air quite well, and is easily improved to great airflow. First thing I would do is block all openings in front fan mounting panel so air front intakes move into case has to flow on thru case and out back, not leak around thru openings in fan mounting panel and end up going in circles. Pop off front cover and put some tape over all holes except ones with fan behind and ones front clips on with and see how it does. Replacing stock front fans with a couple of 140mm fans will increase airflow about 50% at similar noise levels.
Fan's ability to build pressure relates directly to it's ability to overcome airflow resistance. The higher fan's static pressure rating the more airflow it will have against resistance. Problem is pressure rating is at full speed, and that drops dramatically as speed is reduced. Basically a good case 1300rpm fan needs a pressure rating of about 1.3-1.5mmH2O to be able to overcome system resistnce. Keep in mind everything in airflow creates resistance, even most efficient grill with 3 rings of small round wire reduces airflow a bunch .. as well as cables, fan leads, etc. all create turbulence and reduce airflow. Punched metal grills cut airflow 60-80% (see below link for grill resistance). This is why cable management is not just for looks but also function.
https://www.silverstonetek.com/techtalk_cont.php?tid=wh_chessis&area=usa
Fan's ability to build pressure relates directly to it's ability to overcome airflow resistance. The higher fan's static pressure rating the more airflow it will have against resistance. Problem is pressure rating is at full speed, and that drops dramatically as speed is reduced. Basically a good case 1300rpm fan needs a pressure rating of about 1.3-1.5mmH2O to be able to overcome system resistnce. Keep in mind everything in airflow creates resistance, even most efficient grill with 3 rings of small round wire reduces airflow a bunch .. as well as cables, fan leads, etc. all create turbulence and reduce airflow. Punched metal grills cut airflow 60-80% (see below link for grill resistance). This is why cable management is not just for looks but also function.
https://www.silverstonetek.com/techtalk_cont.php?tid=wh_chessis&area=usa
Soldato
Wasn't he already using this cooler? His other thread switched out the cpu and changed cooler to scythe.
After I wrote above I realised he already had that cooler. Anyway he must have something else wrong, maybe poor thermal paste application, as those Artic 34 coolers in push/pull are very good.
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Soldato
I have this cooler so know its OK for the lower watt ryzens. The scythe for near double the price isnt really achieving much, better airflow would have been explored first.