New build.... can't output to TV?

Surveyor · 30 Mar 2011 at 21:32

The manufacturers code on OcUK is this card:

http://www.asus.com/product.aspx?P_ID=HtuZg3hlM5iz8Bag

Were you sent this one?:

http://www.asus.com/product.aspx?P_ID=ZOYt9pirNbbMbPOx

Peerzy · 30 Mar 2011 at 21:34

Yes, I've been sent the second one.

Apart from the no HDMI ports what are the differences?

Surveyor · 30 Mar 2011 at 21:37

The difference is the non-reference cooler and likely the PCB is a non-reference design.

Both cards are overclocked to the same speed.

The card you have is longer.

Could you not use a DVI to HDMI adapter?

I've had several ATI cards in the past which had one in the box.

Peerzy · 30 Mar 2011 at 21:38

That doesn't really mean much to me (the first bit)?

Peerzy · 30 Mar 2011 at 21:47

Just found that adaptor and it's working now on the TV which is great news.

Just trying to work out what the difference is in terms of have I recieved a better or worse card than I should have?

Fanatic · 30 Mar 2011 at 21:49

The Direct CU card you have should have better cooling. I'd keep it.

Surveyor · 30 Mar 2011 at 21:49

Peerzy said:
That doesn't really mean much to me (the first bit)?

When ATI/AMD design the card they produce a reference design printed circuit board - a sort of standard design.

When the card is initially released manufacturers use this reference design so all cards are the same they just have a different sticker on.

Over time some manufacturers produce their own non-reference circuit boards which may be cheaper to produce, better for overclocking, better cooled etc.

Peerzy · 30 Mar 2011 at 21:53

Fanatic said:
The Direct CU card you have should have better cooling. I'd keep it.

Funny you should say that. We are having some serious issues that the PC crashes about 1minute into 3D Mark 2011, it doesn't do it with Prime95 though. It crashed after about 10minutes of Youtube earlier. After we plugged the TV in the computer became really unstable with just web browsing. It crashed on us 3 times just trying to make these posts. Taken the TV off it and it's fine now for web browsing.

So I actually think the card may be overheating?

Surveyor said:
When ATI/AMD design the card they produce a reference design printed circuit board - a sort of standard design.

When the card is initially released manufacturers use this reference design so all cards are the same they just have a different sticker on.

Over time some manufacturers produce their own non-reference circuit boards which may be cheaper to produce, better for overclocking, better cooled etc.

Thanks, makes sense now.

Surveyor · 30 Mar 2011 at 21:55

I assume you've plugged the two 6 pin PCI-E power connectors in to the card and that you have a decent enough power supply.

Monitor the temperature using the Catalyst Control Panel or GPU-Z:

http://www.techpowerup.com/gpuz/

Peerzy · 30 Mar 2011 at 22:00

That's not good is it?

Peerzy · 30 Mar 2011 at 22:02

Corsair TX 650W Power Supply and yes they are plugged in.

Surveyor · 30 Mar 2011 at 22:04

Look at the review here:

http://www.hardwareheaven.com/revie...graphics-card-review-power-temp-noise-oc.html

That sort of temperature should be at full load.

If it's 79 degrees at idle that's not good.

Does the case have decent cooling because that type of card blows the hot air into the case and not out of it.

Try putting some load on the card and see what the temperature goes up to.

Peerzy · 30 Mar 2011 at 22:06

Got 2 fans (1 front of the case and 1 at the back), it is in the corner of the room under a desk though. 80 degrees is just totally idle.

So you recon it's just poor cooling and not actually a fault with the card?

Surveyor · 30 Mar 2011 at 22:09

Still looks far too high.

In that review idle temperature is in the low 30's.

Try running with the side off your case and see if it goes down.

Maybe the cooler isn't seated properly.

Is the fan on the card working?

Peerzy · 30 Mar 2011 at 22:14

Is there a program to stress test it?

He doesn't have 3D Mark 11 on there anymore and no games yet.

Surveyor · 30 Mar 2011 at 22:18

FurMark:

http://downloads.guru3d.com/FurMark-1.8.2_d2523.html

You can run this in a window and have GPU-Z open in another to monitor the temperature.

Peerzy · 30 Mar 2011 at 22:26

I opened VLC on the TV, Media Player Classic on the monitor and then iTunes and Firefox. GPU load got up to 22% but most of the time it was sub 10%.

Temps hit 105 degrees and shut down, turned it back on straight away and just opened Firefox and it did it again.

Left it 5 mins and powered back on and temps are 85 with side of case off.

Card is too hot to even touch.

Surveyor · 30 Mar 2011 at 22:30

Peerzy said:
I opened VLC on the TV, Media Player Classic on the monitor and then iTunes and Firefox. GPU load got up to 22% but most of the time it was sub 10%.

Temps hit 105 degrees and shut down, turned it back on straight away and just opened Firefox and it did it again.

Left it 5 mins and powered back on and temps are 85 with side of case off.

Card is too hot to even touch.

If the card is too hot to touch, but the cooler isn't, then the cooler isn't making contact with the GPU and the card needs to be sent back.

Peerzy · 30 Mar 2011 at 22:32

The card, metal heatsink and 'pipes' are boiling. The plastic bit that protects the fan and heatsink is pretty cool. The air around the GPU isn't very hot at all.

92 degrees with the side of the case off and just firefox open at the moment.

Surveyor · 30 Mar 2011 at 22:35

Peerzy said:
The card, metal heatsink and 'pipes' are boiling. The plastic bit that protects the fan and heatsink is pretty cool. The air around the GPU isn't very hot at all.

92 degrees with the side of the case off and just firefox open at the moment.

Is the fan on the cooler spinning?