New car thread.
- Thread starter Berger
- Start date
Where did the front center caps go?
One is AWOL, presume lost by a garage so removed the other side to match.
Will get some new 'uns off ebay.
Now who wants to lend me the money for a high boost engine, 450bhp anyone?
Last edited:
Soldato
- Joined
- 18 May 2010
- Posts
- 12,853
I did LOL's at "oh BTW it has a SC"
Wouldn't it have been better to remove the rear cap on the side where the front is missing? So you have say driver's side of the car with no caps and other side with caps.
I am loving the car though
How does it compare handling-wise to the 306?
Soldato
- Joined
- 18 May 2010
- Posts
- 12,853
Yeah you are currently experiancing "reverse rake"
Wouldn't it have been better to remove the rear cap on the side where the front is missing? So you have say driver's side of the car with no caps and other side with caps.
I am loving the car though
Handling seems pretty much the same, will understeer on power at the limit, lift off and it will bring the rear into play. Perhaps a bit more aggressively than my 306 did, but that was on standard suspension.
Ill probably bring the rear up a touch, but need to have a look at how a standard car sits, the chassis jacking points are pretty much level with the tarmac. The rear arch sits a lot lower than the front one, hence the look of the rear being "gangster low".
Been doing jobs this morning, nothing too interesting.
Refitted the spare wheel/cage under the car.
Debobbled the front seats with a JML bobble remover.
Put a small semicircle in the glove box where the glovebox light is to feed the ipod cable through for the head unit.
Update time! Doesn't seem like I have had the car three months already!
In that time the clutch cable stretched/failed on the M6 leaving me stuck in 5th. But some funky action got me home using 5th and 3rd only.
The aux belt chucked off the tensioner once, not entirely sure why, but its happened to other people with the supercharger conversions too. Put it back on and been OK since.
The Citroen grill fell off.... some araldite later and all was good!
I also replaced the throttle position sensor (£76) as it was starting like **** and jerky at low speeds. Its cured the low speed and cold start, but its not great starting from warm still...
I ordered the clutch cable from the main dealers as I didn't really want to use a motorfactors one, just incase, i'm sure they are probably the same part but anyway! Ended up costing an arm and a leg (£52!), so i'm glad it fixed the fault as I was worried about the clutch being dead (there was a bad batch of Valeo clutches which had the rivets fail) I didn't want all the hassle of that since the clutch is almost brand new.
They quoted me 2 days delivery, which turned into 10 days and I was raging, however they phoned me 2 days earlier than the later date they had promised me to say it had arrived.
So headed over in the afternoon as I was passing and picked it up.
I had already removed the old cable from the gearbox end and from the subframe, just left it attached to the pedalbox.
Home from work, sockets out and away we went!
Ba-bah!
Jack the drivers side up, drivers side wheel off. Unclip white clip off the pedal, tie string to it. Pull cable through.
Tie string to new cable. Pass new cable up the direction the old one went, aiming for a gap between the manifold heat shield and aircon pipes. Hold torch with one hand/mouth while feeding cable with the other. Pull string through a bit. Fight with the pedal and the clip. Hook the clip over the pedal! Success!
Hard bit done, clip it back under the car, pass the cable through the two hooks, pass it up onto the top of the gearbox. There is a black plastic retaining clip with a metal E clip that fits horizontally ontop of the gearbox (the old one the E clip was missing/broken but I dont think it does much/anything). Pull cable through, and fit the two rubber ends onto the clutch arm etc!
Rebuild it all and GREAT SUCCESS! It seems to work great now!
Rebuild the car, reattach the battery, get confused when the key/immob doesnt work. Press all the buttons on the fob until it does. Start car and be happy! ;D
Total time, about an hour today and half an hour on Saturday, so id say 75 mins if you did it in one stretch. Difficulty, 3/10 maybe, pretty easy and only basic tools required.
Then I set about fitting an oil cooler for track use, I was already seeing the temperatures go up to 125C on a road hoon, and knew from my 306 GTI-6 that on track they rocket upwards.
I used the mountings for the s/c oil cooler and adapted them. These were just small collars that bolted through the bottom of the front subframe. I put a length of stud into each one (fastened under the car).
Section of angle added for strength to help keep it braced and any load off the end tanks.
16 Row Setrab Oil cooler going on.
I mounted the coolers using a nut, then a washer, a foam pad to reduce vibration and another washer over the top. Then the same again on the other side of the mounting lug on the cooler.
Then using another section of angle, drilled two holes in the end and used two usefully positioned OE studs on the slam panel to attach it. Drilled two holes in it, and have made some threaded collars up to attach to the stud.
The hoses are 1/2" BSP braided Mocal ones, come out the cooler, head towards the drivers side, then down and under the radiator. Then up to the Mocal spacer plate which is thermostatically controlled opens at 80C iirc.
Here are my collars I had made, 16mm diameter stainless rod, 40mm in length, M6 tapped, and with 1.5mm taken off either side to give a flat allowing you to use a 13mm spanner on it to adjust them.
Cut down the stud slightly which I had mounted my coolers on and then wound them down onto it.
Then spend ages faffing about with my length of angle getting it spaced correctly off the studs on the slam panel, it wasn't the same side to side, so it always ended up cocked and I wasn't sure why!
And bolt the collars to the angle using M6 bolts and a washer.
All done!
Wrapped the hoses in some sponge and held on with tie wraps to stop any potential chafeage, even though they are braided I thought they could wear through.
They pass under the radiator and again a little sponge to stop them rubbing on the bottom of the rad. Then up and into the spacer plate.
I am running Millers 10/50 Fully Synthetic, its taken almost 6L of oil to fill! I filled the oil cooler when it was on the car, then attached the hoses to the inlets, didn't realise how much oil they would hold themselves, but then they are 45" long each. It went just over 100C when the ambient temp was 26C so thats pretty good for on the road.
Current worries are perhaps it doesnt get enough air flow, having the intercooler, then the oil cooler and then the radiator all in a row, thats a lot of core for the air to flow through, so its going to have warmed up quite significantly by the time it passes through them all.
Still need to work on the brakes, I think the m/c is fudged, as they are terrible. Should change that next week. I have my new Renaultsport calipers and pads, but can't afford the bells/rotors for the kit yet. Bought the hoses to suit them though.
Still need to raise the rear beam and replace the poor IC piping, but its one piece at a time!
In that time the clutch cable stretched/failed on the M6 leaving me stuck in 5th. But some funky action got me home using 5th and 3rd only.
The aux belt chucked off the tensioner once, not entirely sure why, but its happened to other people with the supercharger conversions too. Put it back on and been OK since.
The Citroen grill fell off.... some araldite later and all was good!
I also replaced the throttle position sensor (£76) as it was starting like **** and jerky at low speeds. Its cured the low speed and cold start, but its not great starting from warm still...
I ordered the clutch cable from the main dealers as I didn't really want to use a motorfactors one, just incase, i'm sure they are probably the same part but anyway! Ended up costing an arm and a leg (£52!), so i'm glad it fixed the fault as I was worried about the clutch being dead (there was a bad batch of Valeo clutches which had the rivets fail) I didn't want all the hassle of that since the clutch is almost brand new.
They quoted me 2 days delivery, which turned into 10 days and I was raging, however they phoned me 2 days earlier than the later date they had promised me to say it had arrived.
So headed over in the afternoon as I was passing and picked it up.
I had already removed the old cable from the gearbox end and from the subframe, just left it attached to the pedalbox.
Home from work, sockets out and away we went!
Ba-bah!
Jack the drivers side up, drivers side wheel off. Unclip white clip off the pedal, tie string to it. Pull cable through.
Tie string to new cable. Pass new cable up the direction the old one went, aiming for a gap between the manifold heat shield and aircon pipes. Hold torch with one hand/mouth while feeding cable with the other. Pull string through a bit. Fight with the pedal and the clip. Hook the clip over the pedal! Success!
Hard bit done, clip it back under the car, pass the cable through the two hooks, pass it up onto the top of the gearbox. There is a black plastic retaining clip with a metal E clip that fits horizontally ontop of the gearbox (the old one the E clip was missing/broken but I dont think it does much/anything). Pull cable through, and fit the two rubber ends onto the clutch arm etc!
Rebuild it all and GREAT SUCCESS! It seems to work great now!
Rebuild the car, reattach the battery, get confused when the key/immob doesnt work. Press all the buttons on the fob until it does. Start car and be happy! ;D
Total time, about an hour today and half an hour on Saturday, so id say 75 mins if you did it in one stretch. Difficulty, 3/10 maybe, pretty easy and only basic tools required.
Then I set about fitting an oil cooler for track use, I was already seeing the temperatures go up to 125C on a road hoon, and knew from my 306 GTI-6 that on track they rocket upwards.
I used the mountings for the s/c oil cooler and adapted them. These were just small collars that bolted through the bottom of the front subframe. I put a length of stud into each one (fastened under the car).
Section of angle added for strength to help keep it braced and any load off the end tanks.
16 Row Setrab Oil cooler going on.
I mounted the coolers using a nut, then a washer, a foam pad to reduce vibration and another washer over the top. Then the same again on the other side of the mounting lug on the cooler.
Then using another section of angle, drilled two holes in the end and used two usefully positioned OE studs on the slam panel to attach it. Drilled two holes in it, and have made some threaded collars up to attach to the stud.
The hoses are 1/2" BSP braided Mocal ones, come out the cooler, head towards the drivers side, then down and under the radiator. Then up to the Mocal spacer plate which is thermostatically controlled opens at 80C iirc.
Here are my collars I had made, 16mm diameter stainless rod, 40mm in length, M6 tapped, and with 1.5mm taken off either side to give a flat allowing you to use a 13mm spanner on it to adjust them.
Cut down the stud slightly which I had mounted my coolers on and then wound them down onto it.
Then spend ages faffing about with my length of angle getting it spaced correctly off the studs on the slam panel, it wasn't the same side to side, so it always ended up cocked and I wasn't sure why!
And bolt the collars to the angle using M6 bolts and a washer.
All done!
Wrapped the hoses in some sponge and held on with tie wraps to stop any potential chafeage, even though they are braided I thought they could wear through.
They pass under the radiator and again a little sponge to stop them rubbing on the bottom of the rad. Then up and into the spacer plate.
I am running Millers 10/50 Fully Synthetic, its taken almost 6L of oil to fill! I filled the oil cooler when it was on the car, then attached the hoses to the inlets, didn't realise how much oil they would hold themselves, but then they are 45" long each. It went just over 100C when the ambient temp was 26C so thats pretty good for on the road.
Current worries are perhaps it doesnt get enough air flow, having the intercooler, then the oil cooler and then the radiator all in a row, thats a lot of core for the air to flow through, so its going to have warmed up quite significantly by the time it passes through them all.
Still need to work on the brakes, I think the m/c is fudged, as they are terrible. Should change that next week. I have my new Renaultsport calipers and pads, but can't afford the bells/rotors for the kit yet. Bought the hoses to suit them though.
Still need to raise the rear beam and replace the poor IC piping, but its one piece at a time!
Last edited:
Associate
- Joined
- 10 Nov 2008
- Posts
- 986
- Location
- Badgersford
Cool thread. Keep the updates coming.
Hard to tell, no massive slog of torque at 3.5k rpm like the Rover on full boost.
Probably quicker from low rpm, as the Rover would take a little while to build up, then lose out on the mid range, but faster when on cam. Will rev over 7000rpm and make power all the way there now. Once over 4500 its pretty damn rapid.
The ability to use the tyres is better than the Rover, the overall grip and traction from them is excellent and don't have issues getting the power down, even in the wet if your sensible you can get most of it down (and this is with Yokohamas on).
Main problem I found with my centrifugal SC was the fact there is virtually no torque low down or in the middle of the rev range, which wouldn't matter if it didn't make the loudest noise in the world when you hold it at high revs.
...still miss it though
...still miss it though