new to Custom Water cooling

Leave it overnight and if it has not dropped anymore you should be ok. You always get an initial drop , i think the leak tester itself is not perfect and is the main reason for pressure droop.

When you fill with liquid use the power bridge so you can just run the pump without powering any other components and run it over night when full.
 
Haz123 said:
Leave it overnight and if it has not dropped anymore you should be ok. You always get an initial drop , i think the leak tester itself is not perfect and is the main reason for pressure droop.

When you fill with liquid use the power bridge so you can just run the pump without powering any other components and run it over night when full.
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just got back from work and its drop from around 0.5 to 0.1 think there a small leak sum where there 2 fittings i can't get a grib off what tool can i use to titen them?


also bit confuesed about this?

PRODUCT CHARGING PRESSURE (BAR) Loop 0.45 +/- 0.15 Waterblock 0.6 +/- 0.05 Reservoir 0.6 +/- 0.05 Radiator 0.6 +/- 0.05 Distribution plate / Manifold 0.45 +/- 0.15 EK-Classic DP Front PC-O11D – Distribution plate 0.3 +/- 0.05

what is the - bit? and do i need to add any of the bits togever for the presser if i have a lot in loop or just go by the Loop 0.45 +?


also q about the

EK-Loop Connect - Temperature Plug Sensor the connector looks same as on my MB but don't fit do i need sum thin g extra to make work?​

 
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chris blackford said:
just got back from work and its drop from around 0.5 to 0.1 think there a small leak sum where there 2 fittings i can't get a grib off what tool can i use to titen them?
Click to expand...

As a general rule, don't use tools to tighten fittings - they should only need to be hand tight. That goes double for anything you are tightening into acrylic (like a block or res) - if you overtighten you'll crack the acrylic.

The EK STC fittings are designed such that you can use a hex key inserted up inside the barb but if you use that to tighten the fitting be very careful not to over-tighten - it would be very easy to do so with an allen key. The locking collar doesn't need to compress the tube much to press it onto the barb and make it tight.

When you say "0.5 to 0.1" do you mean a full 0.5 bar or do you mean half way between two dashes (which on mine would be about 0.0125 bar). If it's just dropped half way between two dashes after serveral hours, then I'd be fine with that on my loop.

chris blackford said:
also bit confuesed about this?

PRODUCT CHARGING PRESSURE (BAR) Loop 0.45 +/- 0.15 Waterblock 0.6 +/- 0.05 Reservoir 0.6 +/- 0.05 Radiator 0.6 +/- 0.05 Distribution plate / Manifold 0.45 +/- 0.15 EK-Classic DP Front PC-O11D – Distribution plate 0.3 +/- 0.05

what is the - bit? and do i need to add any of the bits togever for the presser if i have a lot in loop or just go by the Loop 0.45 +?
Click to expand...

I think the table in the leak tester manual is for "re-certifying" if you've disassembled something. So the listed product should be able to hold the quoted pressure for at least 15 minutes after re-assembly. For testing a whole loop you're not checking that it holds a specific pressure, only that your loop is basically airtight. So, I'd say don't worry too much about the actual charging pressure.

I aim for just into the green section (maybe about 0.55-0.575 bar?); leave it for about half an hour or so and check it's not moved. Then you can do a wet leak test - like @Haz123 says, make sure you only power the pump after filling and ideally run it over night (so 8-10 hours minimum). I put kitchen towel in to hopefully make any leak more obvious.

chris blackford said:
also q about the

EK-Loop Connect - Temperature Plug Sensor the connector looks same as on my MB but don't fit do i need sum thin g extra to make work?​

Click to expand...


If I remember correctly, the EK temperature sensor has a 3-position connector, with the wires in the two outer ones? And I'm guessing the header on your motherboard just has two pins next to each other? I ended up swaping the cables into a 2 position connector because I had some around, but if there is space next to the header on your motherboard to take the EK connector you should be able just move one wire to the centre position to make it work. If you push a tiny screwdriver or needle into the exposed metal half way up the connector, you can free the clip and then carefully pull one wire with the crimped on terminal out (don't tug too much, incase you pull the wire out of the crimp). Then just push it back into the centre position until it clicks back in.
 
VersionMonkey said:
As a general rule, don't use tools to tighten fittings - they should only need to be hand tight. That goes double for anything you are tightening into acrylic (like a block or res) - if you overtighten you'll crack the acrylic.

The EK STC fittings are designed such that you can use a hex key inserted up inside the barb but if you use that to tighten the fitting be very careful not to over-tighten - it would be very easy to do so with an allen key. The locking collar doesn't need to compress the tube much to press it onto the barb and make it tight.

When you say "0.5 to 0.1" do you mean a full 0.5 bar or do you mean half way between two dashes (which on mine would be about 0.0125 bar). If it's just dropped half way between two dashes after serveral hours, then I'd be fine with that on my loop.



I think the table in the leak tester manual is for "re-certifying" if you've disassembled something. So the listed product should be able to hold the quoted pressure for at least 15 minutes after re-assembly. For testing a whole loop you're not checking that it holds a specific pressure, only that your loop is basically airtight. So, I'd say don't worry too much about the actual charging pressure.

I aim for just into the green section (maybe about 0.55-0.575 bar?); leave it for about half an hour or so and check it's not moved. Then you can do a wet leak test - like @Haz123 says, make sure you only power the pump after filling and ideally run it over night (so 8-10 hours minimum). I put kitchen towel in to hopefully make any leak more obvious.




If I remember correctly, the EK temperature sensor has a 3-position connector, with the wires in the two outer ones? And I'm guessing the header on your motherboard just has two pins next to each other? I ended up swaping the cables into a 2 position connector because I had some around, but if there is space next to the header on your motherboard to take the EK connector you should be able just move one wire to the centre position to make it work. If you push a tiny screwdriver or needle into the exposed metal half way up the connector, you can free the clip and then carefully pull one wire with the crimped on terminal out (don't tug too much, incase you pull the wire out of the crimp). Then just push it back into the centre position until it clicks back in.
Click to expand...
it was the 90 angal fittings that could not get my hands on too titan i'm useing soft tubing

it doped like over a full thing

it looks like a 2 pin on cable and MB but i think the one on MB is abit smaller as it wont fit in socket
 
VersionMonkey said:
As a general rule, don't use tools to tighten fittings - they should only need to be hand tight. That goes double for anything you are tightening into acrylic (like a block or res) - if you overtighten you'll crack the acrylic.

The EK STC fittings are designed such that you can use a hex key inserted up inside the barb but if you use that to tighten the fitting be very careful not to over-tighten - it would be very easy to do so with an allen key. The locking collar doesn't need to compress the tube much to press it onto the barb and make it tight.

When you say "0.5 to 0.1" do you mean a full 0.5 bar or do you mean half way between two dashes (which on mine would be about 0.0125 bar). If it's just dropped half way between two dashes after serveral hours, then I'd be fine with that on my loop.



I think the table in the leak tester manual is for "re-certifying" if you've disassembled something. So the listed product should be able to hold the quoted pressure for at least 15 minutes after re-assembly. For testing a whole loop you're not checking that it holds a specific pressure, only that your loop is basically airtight. So, I'd say don't worry too much about the actual charging pressure.

I aim for just into the green section (maybe about 0.55-0.575 bar?); leave it for about half an hour or so and check it's not moved. Then you can do a wet leak test - like @Haz123 says, make sure you only power the pump after filling and ideally run it over night (so 8-10 hours minimum). I put kitchen towel in to hopefully make any leak more obvious.




If I remember correctly, the EK temperature sensor has a 3-position connector, with the wires in the two outer ones? And I'm guessing the header on your motherboard just has two pins next to each other? I ended up swaping the cables into a 2 position connector because I had some around, but if there is space next to the header on your motherboard to take the EK connector you should be able just move one wire to the centre position to make it work. If you push a tiny screwdriver or needle into the exposed metal half way up the connector, you can free the clip and then carefully pull one wire with the crimped on terminal out (don't tug too much, incase you pull the wire out of the crimp). Then just push it back into the centre position until it clicks back in.
Click to expand...
i'm starting to think it's the tester as i just tested my pump and it's leaking and a rad and it's leaking as well
 
should i just reconnect everything and fill loop with useing fill it with kitchen roll lol ? do i lov e the cpu 4 pin unconected? and jump the 24 pin will nun of the mb be powered and cpu? and gpu?
 
If the tester is dropping when you've got it connected to just one thing, then yes it's probably the tester. Lots of people don't use them and only do a wet leak test, so you can go straight to filling the loop if you think the tester isn't working.

And yes, when you're ready to fill, make sure all power is disconnected from eveything except the pump - CPU, GPU, even drives. It's a lot easier if you have a spare PSU - you can just plug the pump into that and jump that instead. You will most likely need to turn the pump on and off (I find using the switch on back of the PSU is easiest) to help with filling as initially the water level in your res will drop (probably quite quickly) depending on where you fill from and where the air gets trapped in your loop. Once the level isn't going down, you can leave the pump running for your test.

Yes you can leave the 4 pin disconnected - the pump will just run at maximum speed without a signal.
 
VersionMonkey said:
If the tester is dropping when you've got it connected to just one thing, then yes it's probably the tester. Lots of people don't use them and only do a wet leak test, so you can go straight to filling the loop if you think the tester isn't working.

And yes, when you're ready to fill, make sure all power is disconnected from eveything except the pump - CPU, GPU, even drives. It's a lot easier if you have a spare PSU - you can just plug the pump into that and jump that instead. You will most likely need to turn the pump on and off (I find using the switch on back of the PSU is easiest) to help with filling as initially the water level in your res will drop (probably quite quickly) depending on where you fill from and where the air gets trapped in your loop. Once the level isn't going down, you can leave the pump running for your test.

Yes you can leave the 4 pin disconnected - the pump will just run at maximum speed without a signal.
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ok thanks can i reconnect the tub i used be for as had to take sum off for testing? as thay have mark on the tub from fittings?
 
Tubing should maintain its strength a good long while. You can disconnect and reconnect it a few times without any problems. So long as it's still snug on the barb and the locking ring is on tight it'll be fine.

A leak could potentially come from anywhere two things are being fastened together. So, fittings is the main place, blocks have been also known to leak if there'd been a manufacturing problem (or if you'd stripped it down and reassembled it to clean it). Keep an eye on your pump and res - any unused ports you've put plugs into and where the res screws onto the pump.

Run it at least overnight - so 8-10 hours. The longer you leave it running, the greater the confidence you can have that it is watertight.
 
VersionMonkey said:
Tubing should maintain its strength a good long while. You can disconnect and reconnect it a few times without any problems. So long as it's still snug on the barb and the locking ring is on tight it'll be fine.

A leak could potentially come from anywhere two things are being fastened together. So, fittings is the main place, blocks have been also known to leak if there'd been a manufacturing problem (or if you'd stripped it down and reassembled it to clean it). Keep an eye on your pump and res - any unused ports you've put plugs into and where the res screws onto the pump.

Run it at least overnight - so 8-10 hours. The longer you leave it running, the greater the confidence you can have that it is watertight.
Click to expand...
thanks
 
VersionMonkey said:
Tubing should maintain its strength a good long while. You can disconnect and reconnect it a few times without any problems. So long as it's still snug on the barb and the locking ring is on tight it'll be fine.

A leak could potentially come from anywhere two things are being fastened together. So, fittings is the main place, blocks have been also known to leak if there'd been a manufacturing problem (or if you'd stripped it down and reassembled it to clean it). Keep an eye on your pump and res - any unused ports you've put plugs into and where the res screws onto the pump.

Run it at least overnight - so 8-10 hours. The longer you leave it running, the greater the confidence you can have that it is watertight.
Click to expand...
anyone got any tips how to get air out ya loop?
 
chris blackford said:
will that get rid of air in res? as well?
Click to expand...
No, the res will be where any air left in the loop will naturally end up after a while anyway.

Are you struggling to get the res to fill while you are filling your loop, or do you just want to fill the res to the top?

The loop will work fine so long as there's enough fluid in the res to make sure the pump is covered. Also, if you are using one of the top ports for an inlet, then you'll want the level above the bottom of the internal tube. But otherwise some air in the top of the res isn't a problem in terms of the operation of the loop.
 
VersionMonkey said:
No, the res will be where any air left in the loop will naturally end up after a while anyway.

Are you struggling to get the res to fill while you are filling your loop, or do you just want to fill the res to the top?

The loop will work fine so long as there's enough fluid in the res to make sure the pump is covered. Also, if you are using one of the top ports for an inlet, then you'll want the level above the bottom of the internal tube. But otherwise some air in the top of the res isn't a problem in terms of the operation of the loop.
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yer i'm trying to fill the res completely but there a big bit of air i'm useing the fillport fitting on the side to fill i got the mult port top from ek so got 2 extra ports on side
 
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