I've ordered just the one. I won't need anymore than that because I'm using the G1 and dual PE 360 rads, Also got a drain-valve ready and way too many extra fittings and 90c rotaries should my tube bending go bad. lol
You should have enough plugs come with the components you ordered. You can choose to use EK plugs if you want a different look. Sometimes you will have to use the small plugs that come with the components due to clearance issues. Get the loop up and running and then think about where you want the nicer looking plugs.
Soldato
If you look very carefully you can see that at the top of the T fill tube it's bunged up with a AA battery
Hi all,
Progress update; I've got top and bottom rad in and them plumbed in but I'm struggling with the tubing for the GPU. I've already tried and failed to bend the tubing 3 times now.
CPU is in and plumbed in, not exactly pretty but it works.
Does anyone have any tips for the GPU tubing? I've only got a couple of rotaries, 90' degree fittings and standard fittings left (I'll have to order some more tomorrow)
The GPU is slightly sagging so I've removed it for the time being until more fittings arrive..
Progress update; I've got top and bottom rad in and them plumbed in but I'm struggling with the tubing for the GPU. I've already tried and failed to bend the tubing 3 times now.
CPU is in and plumbed in, not exactly pretty but it works.
Does anyone have any tips for the GPU tubing? I've only got a couple of rotaries, 90' degree fittings and standard fittings left (I'll have to order some more tomorrow)
The GPU is slightly sagging so I've removed it for the time being until more fittings arrive..
Update; Managed to get the GPU tubing in. Running the leak test threw up an unexpected leak from the CPU-Out to Distro-In piping.
That leak aside there also appears to be one slow-leak on the rotary used on the G1 Distro plate:
That leak aside there also appears to be one slow-leak on the rotary used on the G1 Distro plate:
The slow leak is coming from the upper rotary. I'm hoping I can just gently adjust the rotation of it to stop the leak. Fortunately I've got another pack of tubing and a couple of fittings (and replacement o-rings) coming tomorrow (hopefully) so i can try to fix the CPU leak and perhaps the GPU line.
Atleast I got the front bends in and leak-free!
OK first a disclaimer. I am no expert and I found it difficult to get the tubes right but here are a couple of things I did that I felt like helped.
The main thing I did with simple 90 degree bends was to use the table corner as a 90 degree and not use a mold. This allowed for tighter curves that I preferred the look of. I also did the bend first making sure I had at least an inch extra of length on each run and then I would carefully take of little pieces at a time until it was the correct length. I bought an adjustable pipe cutter from a local hardware store for a fiver and that was so much easier than a hacksaw. When it was just a mm or 2 off I would sand it till it was correct then clean up the end
With your cpu block is it not possible to remove and rotate the centre square portion so that the inlet outlet are vertically aligned? This would make it easier and cleaner to link to the distro plate. The distro plate can also be loosened and slid up and down to align it how you like (or at least I could in my case) and get cleaner runs. If you slid the distro plate up you would need to redo the bottom links from rad to distro but you could just shorten the top ones like I described above. Make sure you are using the correct port for inlet and outlet on that cpu block , it does apparently matter.
With the gpu you can use one of the top ports for inlet/outlet if it makes the run easier. You can also go direct from the gpu to cpu and not use that section of the distro plate but that may not be the look you are going for.
Here are pics of mine, easier to show rather than try and explain.
I used a fair few offsets and 90 degree bends and this made my task a lot easier. For a first time I would advise trying to make it as easy as possible
My advice would be. Rotate cpu block orientation then slide distro plate up and look at it again and see how it all lines up. Then order new offsets, if needed, to make runs as straight as possible. I had to change mobo just before xmas and had to redo all my runs. It took me around 3 hours and I only got one wrong when I took too much off and had to redo it. Take your time thinking and try to simplify the runs
Oh yeah. Pressure test tool is a great addition. If it is air tight then it is 99% certain to be water tight so I would get one of those if I was you.
Edit - When you heat the tubing it obviously deforms and if the bend where heat was applied is too close to the fitting then it may not be a perfect join. You want to keep the bends as far away from the fittings as you can so they are a perfect fit and water tight. The run from bottom rad to distro plate has bend very close to the fitting so I hope it is ok. If you redo the runs from cpu block to distro then keep this in when you do them.
The main thing I did with simple 90 degree bends was to use the table corner as a 90 degree and not use a mold. This allowed for tighter curves that I preferred the look of. I also did the bend first making sure I had at least an inch extra of length on each run and then I would carefully take of little pieces at a time until it was the correct length. I bought an adjustable pipe cutter from a local hardware store for a fiver and that was so much easier than a hacksaw. When it was just a mm or 2 off I would sand it till it was correct then clean up the end
With your cpu block is it not possible to remove and rotate the centre square portion so that the inlet outlet are vertically aligned? This would make it easier and cleaner to link to the distro plate. The distro plate can also be loosened and slid up and down to align it how you like (or at least I could in my case) and get cleaner runs. If you slid the distro plate up you would need to redo the bottom links from rad to distro but you could just shorten the top ones like I described above. Make sure you are using the correct port for inlet and outlet on that cpu block , it does apparently matter.
With the gpu you can use one of the top ports for inlet/outlet if it makes the run easier. You can also go direct from the gpu to cpu and not use that section of the distro plate but that may not be the look you are going for.
Here are pics of mine, easier to show rather than try and explain.
I used a fair few offsets and 90 degree bends and this made my task a lot easier. For a first time I would advise trying to make it as easy as possible
My advice would be. Rotate cpu block orientation then slide distro plate up and look at it again and see how it all lines up. Then order new offsets, if needed, to make runs as straight as possible. I had to change mobo just before xmas and had to redo all my runs. It took me around 3 hours and I only got one wrong when I took too much off and had to redo it. Take your time thinking and try to simplify the runs
Oh yeah. Pressure test tool is a great addition. If it is air tight then it is 99% certain to be water tight so I would get one of those if I was you.
Edit - When you heat the tubing it obviously deforms and if the bend where heat was applied is too close to the fitting then it may not be a perfect join. You want to keep the bends as far away from the fittings as you can so they are a perfect fit and water tight. The run from bottom rad to distro plate has bend very close to the fitting so I hope it is ok. If you redo the runs from cpu block to distro then keep this in when you do them.
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OK first a disclaimer. I am no expert and I found it difficult to get the tubes right but here are a couple of things I did that I felt like helped.
The main thing I did with simple 90 degree bends was to use the table corner as a 90 degree and not use a mold. This allowed for tighter curves that I preferred the look of. I also did the bend first making sure I had at least an inch extra of length on each run and then I would carefully take of little pieces at a time until it was the correct length. I bought an adjustable pipe cutter from a local hardware store for a fiver and that was so much easier than a hacksaw. When it was just a mm or 2 off I would sand it till it was correct then clean up the end
With your cpu block is it not possible to remove and rotate the centre square portion so that the inlet outlet are vertically aligned? This would make it easier and cleaner to link to the distro plate. The distro plate can also be loosened and slid up and down to align it how you like (or at least I could in my case) and get cleaner runs. If you slid the distro plate up you would need to redo the bottom links from rad to distro but you could just shorten the top ones like I described above. Make sure you are using the correct port for inlet and outlet on that cpu block , it does apparently matter.
With the gpu you can use one of the top ports for inlet/outlet if it makes the run easier. You can also go direct from the gpu to cpu and not use that section of the distro plate but that may not be the look you are going for.
Here are pics of mine, easier to show rather than try and explain.
I used a fair few offsets and 90 degree bends and this made my task a lot easier. For a first time I would advise trying to make it as easy as possible
My advice would be. Rotate cpu block orientation then slide distro plate up and look at it again and see how it all lines up. Then order new offsets, if needed, to make runs as straight as possible. I had to change mobo just before xmas and had to redo all my runs. It took me around 3 hours and I only got one wrong when I took too much off and had to redo it. Take your time thinking and try to simplify the runs
Oh yeah. Pressure test tool is a great addition. If it is air tight then it is 99% certain to be water tight so I would get one of those if I was you.
Edit - When you heat the tubing it obviously deforms and if the bend where heat was applied is too close to the fitting then it may not be a perfect join. You want to keep the bends as far away from the fittings as you can so they are a perfect fit and water tight. The run from bottom rad to distro plate has bend very close to the fitting so I hope it is ok. If you redo the runs from cpu block to distro then keep this in when you do them.
Hi Haz123,
Firstly thanks for taking the time to respond with pics and detailed info.
It never really occurred me I could simply not use the mold /facepalm and instead use other hard surfaces for the bends, I'll give that a go when I get some more tubing tomorrow.
The CPU block I'm using is the EK Magnitude AM4 Block and from the manual (and a quick online search) it doesn't appear that I can rotate it 90 degrees, only 180 which isn't much help. With the first four front-tubes perfect I'd like to avoid moving the Distro (I wish I'd aligned it better in the first place!). The bottom GPU line is perfect and so is the remaining CPU one, The reason why I put both runs down there was to actually stop the GPU from tilting downwards any further and act as somewhat of a support. I will leave both in place, but just fix the angled upper GPU run to stop the rotary leak and for the CPU run it just needs be re-done but just a hair longer in length so ensure that both ends go into the fittings perfectly straight.
I've got lots of little bits of tubing where I cut it down slowly, but the one issue I had using the mold was that the tube itself would angle coming out the mold because the mold was used on top of my desk surface and me, being the idiot I am only supported the rest of the tubing with my finger...Thinking that the fittings would be a bit more flexible.. /facepalm.
The additional fittings I've got coming will enable to me break one of the runs into two if needed (female to female connector) or put in another 90'degree angle somewhere. I did buy and try to use the EK pressure testing kit but I think mine was DoA (Too busy at the moment to double check).
Both the lower GPU and front-lower-rad runs are indeed snuck and close with the bends but fortunately they both straighten out as they go into the fitting hence no leaks, but duly noted.
Once again, thanks for your advice and hopefully my next post will be it fixed! >
EK Magnitude AM4 Block is the very expenmsive one iirc. I know EK manuals are generally very confusing but I would be very surprised if it cannot rotate 90 degrees to align correctly, I am sure someone more knowledgable than me can confirm this. The distro plate will slide up and down to help get straight runs . I personally would align the cpu runs horizontally with the distro and redo the gpu runs entirely when it is repositioned. You earlier in the thread linked the EK picture with the runs all being parallell, if that is what you want then aim for that and keep workign till you get it how you want it.
Edit - I have looked at the manual and you are correct that block is only changeable by 180 degrees by design. I do not understand the thinking behind it but that is what they have gone for. You may want to think about the EK Vector that can be rotated iirc.
Edit - I have looked at the manual and you are correct that block is only changeable by 180 degrees by design. I do not understand the thinking behind it but that is what they have gone for. You may want to think about the EK Vector that can be rotated iirc.
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Soldato
the EK cpu block is a square but the mounting is rectangular. To rotate the square by 90 degrees you need to remove the mounting rectangle from the square block, turn the block 90 degrees and then reattach the mounting rectangle. The fittings would then be in a vertical line instead of a horizontal line and would be far easier to plumb in and would arguably look better.
Fixed it - I split the second CPU and when testing the leaking GPU rotatory is was a missing oring...