Newly Installed Cooker Hood Stopped Working

LowEndTorque · 27 Jul 2024 at 13:11

Hi Guys,

As the title suggests, we installed a new Samsung NK36C5070DS/UR cooker hood. It worked fine on the evening it was installed. The next day however, when I powered it on the extractor tried to get to first speed but after two attempts it settled on crawling speeds. Similar to what you would expect in limp mode in a car. This was the case regardless of higher speeds being selected. There was also a slight burning but it could be the new appliance thing. I raised it with Samsung and they have offered a replacement.

I talked to the electrician who installed it, and he mentioned that we try switching it off and on. After doing this the Cooker Hood doesn't even power on. The installer is very confident in his work (I am too) and said there was no issue with the connections, but even the best make mistakes and there could be that 1% chance there was something obvious that was not connected properly.

My gripe is with Samsung unable to cover the removal of the faulty appliance and cover the costs of the installation of the replacement. From the minimal information what I read online, it appears that the supplier is not liable for the aforementioned costs. I could have paid little bit extra and got Samsung to install it, but since they did not provide that service I had to go Third party. It is annoying that due to no fault of ours we have to bear the additional burden.

Could you guys help with any possible way to get through this. Worst case scenario, I just get over it and bear the hit of installation.

Thanks for looking into this.

MassiveJim · 27 Jul 2024 at 13:20

there is no way to avoid installation costs unfortunately. Annoying but not the most costly thing in the world.

FWIW its pretty easy to install one yourself, in our last house about 3 weeks before we sold the house ours packed up so I found a 2nd hand replacement on facebook and fitted it.

LowEndTorque · 27 Jul 2024 at 13:33

MassiveJim said:
there is no way to avoid installation costs unfortunately. Annoying but not the most costly thing in the world.

FWIW its pretty easy to install one yourself, in our last house about 3 weeks before we sold the house ours packed up so I found a 2nd hand replacement on facebook and fitted it.

It's the wiring bit I am not confident with. The electrician has used a tape to combine the connection. The wire supplied with the appliance appears to be US spec for some odd reason. I mean its not plug and play from the looks of it.

MassiveJim · 27 Jul 2024 at 15:26

LowEndTorque said:
It's the wiring bit I am not confident with. The electrician has used a tape to combine the connection. The wire supplied with the appliance appears to be US spec for some odd reason. I mean its not plug and play from the looks of it.

I think the tape is more likely wrapped around the connection, if he has used tape to actually make the connection that is VERY much NOT safe.

LowEndTorque · 27 Jul 2024 at 15:46

Below is the image for the wiring.
Cooker Hood Wiring

Jokester · 27 Jul 2024 at 15:54

What the actual ****.

Get a proper terminal box for that.

LowEndTorque · 27 Jul 2024 at 15:56

Time to change the Electrician then.. :|

Jokester · 27 Jul 2024 at 15:59

In fact, can you not just wire a plug on the end of the cable from the hood and plug it into that socket? Is that where the power is coming from?

Thekwango · 27 Jul 2024 at 16:00

Yea that’s diy level of workmanship, not what I’d expect from a proper spark

LowEndTorque · 27 Jul 2024 at 16:01

Jokester said:
In fact, can you not just wire a plug on the end of the cable from the hood and plug it into that socket? Is that where the power is coming from?

I believe that is what he has done but in that way. If I feel the connection there seems to be connectors within the tape.

DarkBahamut · 27 Jul 2024 at 16:08

They've probably just used terminal block and them wrapped it in tape to keep it neat/together.

It's not *that* dangerous, but I would expect better than that from a professional honestly. A proper plastic box is very cheap, or they would have just stripped the cord end and wired the plug directly like was mentioned previously, or used wagos.

EDIT: As for the problem, I'd probably put money one of the terminal block connections not being fully tight. Would explain the behaviour and now non function.

LowEndTorque · 27 Jul 2024 at 16:17

DarkBahamut said:
EDIT: As for the problem, I'd probably put money one of the terminal block connections not being fully tight. Would explain the behaviour and now non function.

Thank you! Makes more sense. I will have to get the installed oven checked too by someone. Was done by the same guy.

radderfire · 27 Jul 2024 at 16:18

I'm not an electrician but I do know that US uses 120V whereas the UK is 240V. If you have been supplied a US-spec cooker hood with a US spec motor, maybe it is being overloaded with voltage? It might be worth investigating.

GeX · 27 Jul 2024 at 17:27

Wow, I’m not electrician but I know better than to consider that a job well done.
I can see more tape on another cable too.

Participant · 27 Jul 2024 at 18:05

LowEndTorque said:
Below is the image for the wiring.
Cooker Hood Wiring

This has to be a joke / troll.

GeX · 27 Jul 2024 at 18:13

I’d be very concerned as to how the high current wiring for the actual oven are done

LowEndTorque · 27 Jul 2024 at 18:23

I have booked another electrician to visit and have a review both the hood and the Oven on Monday. It's through an acquaintance so hoping for better. Fingers crossed.

Thank you for all your inputs guys. Much appreciated!

gc123 · 27 Jul 2024 at 18:34

doesnt look good and to me if the wire is joined to the one going to the plug... how many wires are in the plug because i know i need glasses but looks like 2 flexs going to a single plug.
did he really take money off you for that???

radderfire · 27 Jul 2024 at 18:44

Where did you find the last guy?

Did you check his qualifications?

It does look a bit dodgy to me.

LowEndTorque · 27 Jul 2024 at 18:55

gc123 said:
doesnt look good and to me if the wire is joined to the one going to the plug... how many wires are in the plug because i know i need glasses but looks like 2 flexs going to a single plug.
did he really take money off you for that???

The black wire comes from the extractor and the white is the original one in place to which it has been connected via some plastic connectors. The grey wire is the connection that has always been there that goes into the socket.

radderfire said:
Where did you find the last guy?

Did you check his qualifications?

It does look a bit dodgy to me.

I found him via Facebook group for the town we live in. We had posted there for recommendations.

I did ask for qualification which he said he has had but I had to be polite and not ask too many details. To be fair he was very friendly and left the place relatively clean.