Newly Installed Cooker Hood Stopped Working

LowEndTorque said:
The black wire comes from the extractor and the white is the original one in place to which it has been connected via some plastic connectors. The grey wire is the connection that has always been there that goes into the socket.

I found him via Facebook group for the town we live in. We had posted there for recommendations.

I did ask for qualification which he said he has had but I had to be polite and not ask too many details. To be fair he was very friendly and left the place relatively clean.
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It's a bodge job, there's no way you wire a cooker hood like that.

Next time, I would try and go for a small company that has a number of people working for it, then you know they are likely to be qualified! Take a look at their website, see how good it is. Ask local estate agents for recommendations etc etc. I would improve your way of assessing electricians. Learn what the electrical qualifications are, and ask them how they got qualified if necessary.

A cooker hood would also often not be plugged in, but have a permanent electrical connection. I'm not sure what is best practice for cooker hoods, but I don't think it's a plug connection. I would establish what the best practice is.
 
radderfire said:
A cooker hood would also often not be plugged in, but have a permanent electrical connection. I'm not sure what is best practice for cooker hoods, but I don't think it's a plug connection. I would establish what the best practice is.
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They're often plugged in, but the socket is actually mounted behind the unit or above it so it's out of sight.
 
So just to be clear the plug in the picture goes into that taped up connection, then the other wire goes to the hood?
If that is the case, unplug the plug then take the tape off and take another picture.
 
I also hired him.
a single light switch socket to a double one
Bg1M3aI.jpeg



It's not the best but he was polite and tidy which is all that matters
 
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arknor said:
I also hired him.
a single light switch socket to a double one
Bg1M3aI.jpeg



It's not the best but he was polite and tidy which is all that matters
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Lol. I didn't see what he had done until the thing failed. The switch is also on top of the Hood. To climb on the worktop to check is the last thing that would cross my mind.
MassiveJim said:
So just to be clear the plug in the picture goes into that taped up connection, then the other wire goes to the hood?
If that is the case, unplug the plug then take the tape off and take another picture.
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I will take a pic tomorrow.
 
LowEndTorque said:
Hi Guys,

As the title suggests, we installed a new Samsung NK36C5070DS/UR cooker hood. It worked fine on the evening it was installed. The next day however, when I powered it on the extractor tried to get to first speed but after two attempts it settled on crawling speeds. Similar to what you would expect in limp mode in a car. This was the case regardless of higher speeds being selected. There was also a slight burning but it could be the new appliance thing. I raised it with Samsung and they have offered a replacement.

I talked to the electrician who installed it, and he mentioned that we try switching it off and on. After doing this the Cooker Hood doesn't even power on. The installer is very confident in his work (I am too) and said there was no issue with the connections, but even the best make mistakes and there could be that 1% chance there was something obvious that was not connected properly.

My gripe is with Samsung unable to cover the removal of the faulty appliance and cover the costs of the installation of the replacement. From the minimal information what I read online, it appears that the supplier is not liable for the aforementioned costs. I could have paid little bit extra and got Samsung to install it, but since they did not provide that service I had to go Third party. It is annoying that due to no fault of ours we have to bear the additional burden.

Could you guys help with any possible way to get through this. Worst case scenario, I just get over it and bear the hit of installation.

Thanks for looking into this.
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I've got the same cooker hood and installed it myself, I thought I recalled it came with a fixed UK and US plug, so if you had a socket available then why did he feel the need to cut the plug off and join it to an existing one. I had to cut the end off mine because my connection was from a fused spur.

If you're relatively confident with DIY I'd just do the replacement myself - he's done the hard work already by drilling the necessary mounting holes. All you now need to do is mount it and plug it in.
 
Semple said:
I've got the same cooker hood and installed it myself, I thought I recalled it came with a fixed UK and US plug, so if you had a socket available then why did he feel the need to cut the plug off and join it to an existing one. I had to cut the end off mine because my connection was from a fused spur.

If you're relatively confident with DIY I'd just do the replacement myself - he's done the hard work already by drilling the necessary mounting holes. All you now need to do is mount it and plug it in.
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I am not sure why he felt the need to do whatever botch job he has done. I was working from home when this was being installed. I refrain from doing electrical stuff myself as I am not very confident.

Good to know that it came with a UK spec plug too.
 
MassiveJim said:
why would you use connectors in that situation anyway, just fit a plug directly to the cable.
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From the photos, the plug is a sealed moulded item so if that is all he had to hand then he'd have to bodge it that way..

Not sure what kind of sparky not only didn't have a spare 13A plug to hand but also had no junction/connector box and modern connectors..
 
So the second electrician did not turn up today for removing the Cooker Hood. I followed up with his boss couple of times only to get updated that he has been left a message and is awaiting response.

I tried to remove it myself but couldn't get my head around the wiring at the top of the cooker hood. The instructions went tangent over my head as they did not have the wiring related info in the diagrams. It just contained the mounting information.

How hard can it be to get a decent skilled person to get a task done. I have messaged two other businesses on Check a Trade this evening. Hoping at least one will turn up.
 
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