O11D Evo Build

Soldato
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Apologies for the length of this but I try my best to do my own research before asking. I have a Lian Li O11D Evo case. I saw there is a pre-set solution on EKWB but I do not really like the look of it and I have received some pointers around distro blocks being a bit of a pain.

The loop will be for CPU and GPU but as to which GPU that will be at the moment is not decided, I will probably settle for a current gen card as I want to build this before I probably have any chance of getting a 4080/90 and waiting for the waterblocks too.
I may put the GPU upright but I'm not sure it will fit at this stage.

Here is the spec of the case:
image.png

The key goal for me is quietness, I have opted for 2x Hardware Labs Black Ice Nemesis GTX 360 (some reason OCUK dont sell not sure if I can link) there is also the SR2 version which is 60mm and has a few different options for fittings but they are also out of stock everywhere it seems. These are optimised for sub 800rpm 'stealth' fans, I assume that's a type of fan but the point is it's optimised for slower thus quieter fans. I assume from the case diagram the 87.5mm total includes the fans I mount so I can have max 33.5mm fans with the remainder.
Spec here:
Technical details:
120 mm x 3 fan Xtreme form factor two-pass radiator
398mm x 133mm x 54mm (L x W x H)
16 FPI 25 Micron Copper Fins
Now optimized for sub-800 rpm ultra-stealth fans
Supercruise optimizations for scalable performance with higher speed fans
15% more tubing area in the same Black Ice® GTX™ 240 form factor
Increased internal coolant flow rates
Standard G 1/4" inlet/outlet fittings
Standard M4 mounting threads
Compatible with Black Ice® Xtreme III, Black Ice® GTX™ 360 radiators
Custom Satin White high quality finish
Fully ROHS Compliant
100% Made from conflict-free materials
Industry standard Black Ice® quality
Lifetime warranty against manufacturing defects*

For the fans I have decided on the Noctua NF-A12 they seem pricey but if they perform well at low rpm that is worth it for me. £180 on fans does sting a bit. At this stage I am not entirely sure how you plug them all in and where but I am not tackling that today. I would get the black ones as per link, I haven't really touched on aesthetic much but there will be very minimal RGB if any.

I will probably go 12th gen Intel so have selected the EK Quantum Velocity 2 small amount of RGB that I assume I can turn off if I don't like it, again, at this stage no clue how that is controlled, is it the CPU fan header on the motherboard?

GPU block, I want the fully encased thing like This, otherwise am I right I can get a normal one and then get a backplate separately? It seems less hassle this way even though it's OOS like most thing I want.

I am stuck on the pump and reservoir, I think for my skill level a combo would be better, however I don't really know spec wise what I need.

The other area is tubing, I have dyscalculia (dyslexia with numbers) and thus all the sizes confuse me. I would ideally like black bendy tubing, clear would also be ok. I don't know what materials are 'best'.
Decided on acrylic 14mm tubing because why not go hard mode.


Fittings is the worst part for me, if I look at that pre-set for my case on EKWB it includes things like, Torque Extenders, Drain Valve, Torque Rotary, Torque Rings. I have no idea on any of this. I just want whatever I need to connect my tubing to these things safely. Aside from the coolant am I missing anything else? Thanks in advance for any help.
Edit: EKWB have some really handy guides I just found, I understand now what I need fittings wise: Fittings and Tubing



PS: This is mainly me 'talking' out loud, happy for others to chime in of course with any suggestions but it's more a log for my and any other noobs benefit.
 
Last edited:

V F

V F

Soldato
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For the fans I have decided on the Noctua NF-A12 they seem pricey but if they perform well at low rpm that is worth it for me. £180 on fans does sting a bit. At this stage I am not entirely sure how you plug them all in and where but I am not tackling that today. I would get the black ones as per link, I haven't really touched on aesthetic much but there will be very minimal RGB if any.

I will probably go 12th gen Intel so have selected the EK Quantum Velocity 2 small amount of RGB that I assume I can turn off if I don't like it, again, at this stage no clue how that is controlled, is it the CPU fan header on the motherboard?

GPU block, I want the fully encased thing like This, otherwise am I right I can get a normal one and then get a backplate separately? It seems less hassle this way even though it's OOS like most thing I want.

I am stuck on the pump and reservoir, I think for my skill level a combo would be better, however I don't really know spec wise what I need.

The other area is tubing, I have dyscalculia (dyslexia with numbers) and thus all the sizes confuse me. I would ideally like black bendy tubing, clear would also be ok. I don't know what materials are 'best'.
Decided on acrylic 14mm tubing because why not go hard mode.


Fittings is the worst part for me, if I look at that pre-set for my case on EKWB it includes things like, Torque Extenders, Drain Valve, Torque Rotary, Torque Rings. I have no idea on any of this. I just want whatever I need to connect my tubing to these things safely. Aside from the coolant am I missing anything else? Thanks in advance for any help.
Edit: EKWB have some really handy guides I just found, I understand now what I need fittings wise: Fittings and Tubing



PS: This is mainly me 'talking' out loud, happy for others to chime in of course with any suggestions but it's more a log for my and any other noobs benefit.

Sometimes I cannot get over it has taken Noctua 100 years to go all black.

Your CPU block will be controlled by one of the ARGB or DRGB headers you plug into the motherboard. In your case, D-RGB. https://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?110272-What-do-5v-and-12v-RGB-cables-look-like-you-ask

That GPU block has an active backplate which is mainly geared towards the 3090/Ti. As the memory is on the back.

Pump, stick to D5. The reason I went with the Aqua Computer D5 was the optional connections and interactive part to the pump. You can either hook up all your fans and control it from their or through AquaSuite software. As well as controlling the pump speed through the software. Plus it has a virtual flow sensor and water temperature built in. The Virtual Flow sensor isn't perfect but it's pretty close after calibration. Plus you can set alarms for temperatures and pump speeds through AquaSuite or via the hardware itself.


You could also go with a HeatKiller reservoir to go with the AquaComputer D5.


Tubing, if you don't want to go all in with Acrylic yet, you could go Tygon Norprene. A lot of people speak highly of this. It's matte black flexible tubing that wont suffer plasticizers or discolouring.
 
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Soldato
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Thank you for the suggestions. I was thinking, as I will have 6 fans, I could either use a PWM 3-1 splitter and plug to MOBO, or get the Aqua Computer Quadro controller as I thought I would quite like a water temp sensor and it seemed a convenient way to do it. Would there be any advantage to getting the one with 8 headers so I could connect the fans individually or stick with the splitters and plug in to the controller, from the video you linked I guess that pump would link nicely with the controller and I assume then I wouldn't need the temp sensor as the pump seems to have it already.

I am warming to the idea of the combo you linked, it would eliminate some hassle for me for sure. I am also wondering why that Tygon stuff doesn't come in 14mm, not that I'm set on that size, I just shot down the middle when I saw available sizes of various tubing.
 
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Location
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Apologies for the length of this but I try my best to do my own research before asking. I have a Lian Li O11D Evo case. I saw there is a pre-set solution on EKWB but I do not really like the look of it and I have received some pointers around distro blocks being a bit of a pain.

The loop will be for CPU and GPU but as to which GPU that will be at the moment is not decided, I will probably settle for a current gen card as I want to build this before I probably have any chance of getting a 4080/90 and waiting for the waterblocks too.
I may put the GPU upright but I'm not sure it will fit at this stage.

Here is the spec of the case:
image.png

The key goal for me is quietness, I have opted for 2x Hardware Labs Black Ice Nemesis GTX 360 (some reason OCUK dont sell not sure if I can link) there is also the SR2 version which is 60mm and has a few different options for fittings but they are also out of stock everywhere it seems. These are optimised for sub 800rpm 'stealth' fans, I assume that's a type of fan but the point is it's optimised for slower thus quieter fans. I assume from the case diagram the 87.5mm total includes the fans I mount so I can have max 33.5mm fans with the remainder.
Spec here:
Technical details:
120 mm x 3 fan Xtreme form factor two-pass radiator
398mm x 133mm x 54mm (L x W x H)
16 FPI 25 Micron Copper Fins
Now optimized for sub-800 rpm ultra-stealth fans
Supercruise optimizations for scalable performance with higher speed fans
15% more tubing area in the same Black Ice® GTX™ 240 form factor
Increased internal coolant flow rates
Standard G 1/4" inlet/outlet fittings
Standard M4 mounting threads
Compatible with Black Ice® Xtreme III, Black Ice® GTX™ 360 radiators
Custom Satin White high quality finish
Fully ROHS Compliant
100% Made from conflict-free materials
Industry standard Black Ice® quality
Lifetime warranty against manufacturing defects*

For the fans I have decided on the Noctua NF-A12 they seem pricey but if they perform well at low rpm that is worth it for me. £180 on fans does sting a bit. At this stage I am not entirely sure how you plug them all in and where but I am not tackling that today. I would get the black ones as per link, I haven't really touched on aesthetic much but there will be very minimal RGB if any.

I will probably go 12th gen Intel so have selected the EK Quantum Velocity 2 small amount of RGB that I assume I can turn off if I don't like it, again, at this stage no clue how that is controlled, is it the CPU fan header on the motherboard?

GPU block, I want the fully encased thing like This, otherwise am I right I can get a normal one and then get a backplate separately? It seems less hassle this way even though it's OOS like most thing I want.

I am stuck on the pump and reservoir, I think for my skill level a combo would be better, however I don't really know spec wise what I need.

The other area is tubing, I have dyscalculia (dyslexia with numbers) and thus all the sizes confuse me. I would ideally like black bendy tubing, clear would also be ok. I don't know what materials are 'best'.
Decided on acrylic 14mm tubing because why not go hard mode.


Fittings is the worst part for me, if I look at that pre-set for my case on EKWB it includes things like, Torque Extenders, Drain Valve, Torque Rotary, Torque Rings. I have no idea on any of this. I just want whatever I need to connect my tubing to these things safely. Aside from the coolant am I missing anything else? Thanks in advance for any help.
Edit: EKWB have some really handy guides I just found, I understand now what I need fittings wise: Fittings and Tubing



PS: This is mainly me 'talking' out loud, happy for others to chime in of course with any suggestions but it's more a log for my and any other noobs benefit.

I have those fans in a Dan H2O and they are great at low rpms wish I used them on my o11 build but would have also made a mess of wires.

The velocity2 block comes also with metal cover which has minimal rgb you can just not plug it in or remove the strip.

The vector2 gpu blocks non ABP versions fully incase the card only leaving the side with the pcie connector open and I've found the thick backplate (that also can be thermally connected to the cold plate if wanted, I haven't tho) does a ok job on a 3090 keeping memory at full load in the 80c range, it's not really required for the 3090 ti as the memory chips are not on the rear of the card.

With pump setup go for a combo and d5 you can also use a ddc if you want a small setup somewhere but I didn't have issues with a d5 placement in the o11.

I've used ek soft matt black Tubing in a few builds and one that was only taken apart a month ago that was never drained for almost 4 years and in daily use with no issues.
 
Soldato
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What is ABP sorry? From the wording on some item it seems having a backplate is recommended but not essential. However, considering how much GPU's cost I'd rather not scrimp on that part. I would probably get a 3080ti as a compromise but 3090's are very near the same price. Either one is going to be fine for a long time anyway, I am happy with 60fps 4k though my screen will have the ability to go higher.
 
Soldato
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You can't find 14mm tygon because
14mm is a hard Tubing size
Ie acrylic etc
16mm outer and 10mm inner diameter is the
Most commonly used soft Tubing size
Thats 5/8 by 3/8 in imperial
And soft and hard Tubing fittings are not interchangeable
Just in case you didn't realise that
Some fittings can be used in both I guess
So to clarify that the fittings that actually grip Tubing
Aren't interchangeable
Things like extenders,g1/4 male to female angles etc can work
With either
 
Soldato
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You can't find 14mm tygon because
14mm is a hard Tubing size
Ie acrylic etc
16mm outer and 10mm inner diameter is the
Most commonly used soft Tubing size
Thats 5/8 by 3/8 in imperial
And soft and hard Tubing fittings are not interchangeable
Just in case you didn't realise that
Some fittings can be used in both I guess
So to clarify that the fittings that actually grip Tubing
Aren't interchangeable
Things like extenders,g1/4 male to female angles etc can work
With either

Ah! Thank you. I was thinking, if I decide to hide bits out of sight like pump/res, I assume I can use soft tubing to say a rad from the pump for ease if it's out of sight? and use the aesthetic choice for the ones I can actually see. Logic tells me yes because it would be the same fitting to each keeping in line with what you said.
 
Soldato
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Ah! Thank you. I was thinking, if I decide to hide bits out of sight like pump/res, I assume I can use soft tubing to say a rad from the pump for ease if it's out of sight? and use the aesthetic choice for the ones I can actually see. Logic tells me yes because it would be the same fitting to each keeping in line with what you said.
Yes could do that
Even if the build was hard Tubing
You can still use a bit of soft Tubing to get to a pump or drain port etc
If its easier and doesn't spoil the aesthetic
You've already ordered radiators
Or I would have suggested x flow/cross flow rads with multiple ports
They can make life a lot easier
Unlike normal rads where Tubing goes in and out
At the same end those go in one end out the other
So can mean less/tidier Tubing runs
Multi port also makes life easier for draining
As usually gives a lower option for the drain valve
 
Soldato
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Yes could do that
Even if the build was hard Tubing
You can still use a bit of soft Tubing to get to a pump or drain port etc
If its easier and doesn't spoil the aesthetic
You've already ordered radiators
Or I would have suggested x flow/cross flow rads with multiple ports
They can make life a lot easier
Unlike normal rads where Tubing goes in and out
At the same end those go in one end out the other
So can mean less/tidier Tubing runs
Multi port also makes life easier for draining
As usually gives a lower option for the drain valve

Do you mean like the SR360 rad which has multiple outlets to choose from? It's not too late for me to change anything at this stage.

black-ice-sr2-xtreme-240-mp-multi-port-radiator-black-carbon-hwl-r138-54477-3.jpg
 
Soldato
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Do you mean like the SR360 rad which has multiple outlets to choose from? It's not too late for me to change anything at this stage.

black-ice-sr2-xtreme-240-mp-multi-port-radiator-black-carbon-hwl-r138-54477-3.jpg
Something like that yes
It depends on your build if how you plan it
Whether the extra ports will be useful
For example my bottom radiator I use one of the ports
On the underside to have my drain valve on
Means it's absolutely the lowest point in my loop
One of my others I go in the end and out the top port

Though that one there is still standard
Not x flow as all the ports are on one end
X flow/cross flow rads with multiple ports are a bit harder to find
 
Soldato
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Difference with x flow/cross flow
Think they cool a little better
Though forgot the technical reasons for that
But if you have quite a complex loop
Instead of going in one end of the radiator
Then needing a long tube run
If your next component is the other side of the case say
You go in one end of the radiator
Then out of the other end
Usually meaning you only need a little bit of Tubing
To reach the next component
 
Soldato
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I agree they look much better. I just understood that my radiators performed a lot better with low speed fans. What that equates to in real world temperature I do not know.

I can definitely see the advantage with the tubing as you say if I hide the pump and reservoir behind the main bit of the case
 
Soldato
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Yeah real world use is different
From manufacturers claims as they will always
Use metrics that show their products in the best light
Usually apart from thickness
Fpi (fins per inch) determines whether your fans need a higher rpm
Higher fpi means more force needed to push air through
My fans are set 700 to 1000 rpm
I prefer silence over knocking off a couple of degrees C
Unless you have a very toasty cpu and every degree matters
not sure most of these radiators
Will be majorly better or worse than each other

There's a bit of smoke and mirrors
Or politician type talk
Involved with the advertising
Company A says Our radiators cool much better with low speed fans than company B
Company B says our radiators cool 10c better than company A does though you need 100rpm more on your fans
Basically they may both be correct
Yet either one in real life use will work fine as long as you have
Enough radiator surface area and adequate airflow
Sometimes you get a headache thinking it over too much
I have never had any issues using all sorts of radiators
As I always ensure plenty surface area even to the point of
Having more than actually required
 
Soldato
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Difference with x flow/cross flow
Think they cool a little better
Though forgot the technical reasons for that
But if you have quite a complex loop
Instead of going in one end of the radiator
Then needing a long tube run
If your next component is the other side of the case say
You go in one end of the radiator
Then out of the other end
Usually meaning you only need a little bit of Tubing
To reach the next component

Cross flow radiator actually perform a little worse than standard u flow radiators. This is because the coolant flows straight through the radiator and out the other side, only making one pass through. With the more standard U flow rads the coolant flows through one half and then back through the other half so making two passe through the radiator.

Normally only equates to a couple of degrees at most though so I'd cross flow means shorter or neater tubing runs I'd go that route.
 
Soldato
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Cross flow radiator actually perform a little worse than standard u flow radiators. This is because the coolant flows straight through the radiator and out the other side, only making one pass through. With the more standard U flow rads the coolant flows through one half and then back through the other half so making two passe through the radiator.

Normally only equates to a couple of degrees at most though so I'd cross flow means shorter or neater tubing runs I'd go that route.

Is it generally recommended to fit the thickest you can? So take the 58cm over 44 with that one.
 
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