O11D Evo Build

Soldato
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Here's jayz2cents on cross flow vs dual pass
Probably explains it better
Short answer basically much the same temperature wise
One thing with x flow /cross flow
Double check the overall length as having ports
At both ends may make it slightly longer
Not an issue in a lot of pc cases but something to be aware of
Thicker should mean better
Though again need to check case support once fans are fitted
Especially top mounted radiator ram clearance if got tall ram
Though 44mm is still a decent thickness

Edit
If you plan out your loop
In your head or sketch it out whichever you prefer
Should be able to see if in one end out the other
Will give you neater tube runs
Whether you use cross flow or standard
I would still recommend multiple ports to make life easier
Give more options
 
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Soldato
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Back to analysis paralasys. I am keen on the linked EK radiators, they look nicer and will be very easy for a drainage pipe.

Bearing in mind key element is silence, does one get the 44 or 58 radiator? I am not finding many benchmarks understandably that really help me here.

As said, fans will be Noctua Ax25. I am under the impression the thicker radiator may not be much benefit unless the fan RPM increases in which case I am losing on sound but may gain a few degrees cooler.
 
Soldato
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They are yes on both those EK ones.
I have 2 x 360mm that are 35mm thick
1 x 280mm 65mm thick
I run same rpm on mine
Not scientific but my way of thinking
Same fpi means same resistance
So you're just dealing with moving air a little further
If you blow into a 44mm long tube
Compared to blow into a 58mm long tube
Would you see same amount come out?
I think so
If you blow into a 20 foot long tube things would likely be different
As you need to displace a much larger volume of air
That's inside the tube
So my gut feeling is you won't need higher rpm/pressure
As you're talking about moving air 14mm further
But 58mm gives more fin surface area to radiate heat
So at same rpm should be better
I should have paid more attention in physics class lol
 
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Roger, I'll go for it.
I have 2 x 360mm that are 35mm thick
1 x 280mm 65mm thick
I run same rpm on mine
Not scientific but my way of thinking
Same fpi means same resistance
So you're just dealing with moving air a little further
If you blow into a 44mm long tube
Compared to blow into a 58mm long tube
Would you see same amount come out?
I think so
If you blow into a 20 foot long tube things would likely be different
As you need to displace a much larger volume of air
That's inside the tube
So my gut feeling is you won't need higher rpm/pressure
As you're talking about moving air 14mm further
But 58mm gives more fin surface area to radiate heat
So at same rpm should be better
I should have paid more attention in physics class lol

I'll just go for it, what's the worst that can happen. As an aside, I can see why you format your text like that but I actually prefer it, might be due to ADHD :D Would be able to get through stuff easier if everything was written like that.
 
Soldato
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Yeah my weird text spacing
Did get a few comments in the beginning
To be fair some people can't see my signature
If on a phone
Or if show signatures is turned off in settings
So not all of them were being cruel or rude about it
They just didn't realise why I type like I do
Just a few were actually rude for the sake of it
but lot of the guys stuck up for me too
But most of the regulars are probably used to me by now
As long as my comments help people
Doesn't really matter how I express them is my way of thinking
 
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I've just had an email from EKWB saying they are recalling all the EK-Quantum Reflection² PC-O11D EVO D5 PWM D-RGB distribution plates. I was literally just about to install in the case this weekend!

Dear EK Enthusiast,
We appreciate your EK-Quantum Reflection² PC-O11D EVO D5 PWM D-RGB distribution plate purchase with EK and would like you to rest assured that the customers who have already received their distro plates (including you)will be the first to receive the new ones.
We have found a manufacturing error in the said product that could potentially cause problems during the product’s lifetime and lead to issues with your loop. Therefore, we have to recall this product. As we deeply care about our customers, we’ve immediately reached out to our supplier to resolve this issue.
Considering the above, we will arrange a pick-up for the distro plates we shipped out to prevent any potential damage to your system. We realize some of you have already filled your system with coolant, so we’ll provide you with 2L of your preferred EK coolant and your replacement distro plate.
We’re also adding an EK mousepad (size L) as a token of our appreciation for your understanding.
We urge you to request a return so one of our RMA customer service representatives can guide you through the process. When opening an RMA, please provide us with:
  • Your pick-up address (name and surname, address, postcode, area/state, country)
  • Your contact information (telephone)
  • When you’re available for the pick-up (we’ll try to organize the pick-up when it’s most suitable for you)
  • The EAN code of the coolant you’d like us to send you
Considering the current manufacturing cycle, we estimate that new stock will be available in mid-August. We expect a clearer picture of the estimated restocking date next week. When we do, we’ll reach out again to let you know the expected timeline.
We appreciate your understanding.
Best Regards,
Team EK
 
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Interesting, I wasn't going to use one but good to know! Realistically aside from leaking what else could be the issue?
Not sure, I have seen some posts on original distros leaking (one or two) but that seemed to be a QC issue and overall fine. Perhaps weak point identified or flow issue or something. I emailed EK this morning, but they might not say for sure until they have a proper announcement to make in public.
 

V F

V F

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Not sure, I have seen some posts on original distros leaking (one or two) but that seemed to be a QC issue and overall fine. Perhaps weak point identified or flow issue or something. I emailed EK this morning, but they might not say for sure until they have a proper announcement to make in public.

One I saw the acrylic was supposedly flaking in the reservoir.
 
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Speaking of, I read sometimes there is crap in parts from the process so it is prudent to flush them out before installing? I guess that would be as simple as just putting some kind of water through the rad with a tube/fitting and letting it come out the other end
 
Soldato
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Speaking of, I read sometimes there is crap in parts from the process so it is prudent to flush them out before installing? I guess that would be as simple as just putting some kind of water through the rad with a tube/fitting and letting it come out the other end
Me I put some water in the rad
Give it a good shake
Empty it into the sink with kitchen roll in the sink
So I can see if any crud comes out
I repeat that several times

Some people will use mayhem blitz kits
Which ocuk probably sell

Even seen some say they blast water through
With a hose outdoors

You're probably going to find mixed opinions on how
You should do it to be honest

Blitz kit I have never tried
So can't comment if it's necessary from
Personal experience
 
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Speaking of, I read sometimes there is crap in parts from the process so it is prudent to flush them out before installing? I guess that would be as simple as just putting some kind of water through the rad with a tube/fitting and letting it come out the other end
Almost certainly there will be small flecks of material. I fill the rads with de-ionised, and add a little white vinegar on the first fill.

Add the water till mostly full, plug the ports, and give a good shaking for a minute or two.

The vinegar is added only on the first fill and let it stand for some minutes. Then the remainder of fills is just de-ionised.

Pour the discarded water into a white bowl to be able to see if specks are still coming out. Discard white bowl between fills so you can see fresh specks coming out. When the bowl shows no specks, the radiator should be clear of specks.

Some radiators I’ve had to flush about 8 times if they’re ‘bad’.

I use some old tubing and compression fittings to help add and flush out the water. Keeps it controllable.

I am not a regular filler and flusher of systems, and there are others on here with way more experience! :) …but have built a few. But this technique basically ‘proves’ when the radiator is clear of specks.
 
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Yeah my weird text spacing
Did get a few comments in the beginning
To be fair some people can't see my signature
If on a phone
Or if show signatures is turned off in settings
So not all of them were being cruel or rude about it
They just didn't realise why I type like I do
Just a few were actually rude for the sake of it
but lot of the guys stuck up for me too
But most of the regulars are probably used to me by now
As long as my comments help people
Doesn't really matter how I express them is my way of thinking
When I first came on here I saw your signature and thought it was great ;)
it`s great that you have found a way to get round your dyslexia.
 
Soldato
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I know I alluded to this before but I'm tempted to have two 45mm rads instead of the 60. I just think it looks nicer and I doubt will make a huge difference in performance. One of each triggers me, I generally like symmetry.
 
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I know I alluded to this before but I'm tempted to have two 45mm rads instead of the 60. I just think it looks nicer and I doubt will make a huge difference in performance. One of each triggers me, I generally like symmetry.

The gap at the top and the bottom of the case is not identical - so two identical rads looks more out of place to me. Hence why I went one 40 and one 60mm thick rads.
 
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