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***Official Ivybridge Overclock Thread***

I have only just got my PC up and running TBH. I've just come from a Q6600 so everything is different. Some people say to disable all of the multiplier changes etc, but I don't want to, I don't want it to always run flat out, i'd rather it could throttle down when browsing / writing etc and speed up when gaming.

I might try a few auto-clocks now.
 
I've only just got this thing running. I'll have to do a bit more tweaking but here's a benchmark test for you.

3570oc.jpg


Excuse the ridiculous resolution, using a crappy TV. I'm going to have to get myself a new monitor soon. Anyway, it's averaging at about 64 degrees with a max temp of 73 run for 20mins. I think I'ma have this as my 24/7 but I will try to push it a little further.
 
demon8991 said:
Have you got any tips to overclocking with the new Asus boards? I have the Asus p8z77-v Pro and I am struggling to get my head around the best way to overclock my 3570K as when I enter into windows my multiplier flies around. I also did the auto tune thing as well.
Click to expand...

Disable all power saving stuff except speedstep to get rid of all instability that power saving options can cause, but it will continue to jump around from X16 multiplier depending on your usage so you get the best of both. Also use offset mode instead of manual mode so it's not always running at maximum voltages.

You should probably check out one of the plethora of Asus Z77 vids on youtube with their marketing guy JJ.
 
Krono5 said:
Disable all power saving stuff except speedstep to get rid of all instability that power saving options can cause, but it will continue to jump around from X16 multiplier depending on your usage so you get the best of both. Also use offset mode instead of manual mode so it's not always running at maximum voltages.

You should probably check out one of the plethora of Asus Z77 vids on youtube with their marketing guy JJ.
Click to expand...

Cheers for that i will look at that tonight!
 
Not impressed so far tbh, tempted to return and get a 2700K instead

Running a (decent!) 240mm radiator watercooled loop, 3770K @ 4.5Ghz 1.24vcore and hitting 74 degrees on prime95

if i increase the voltage much more, i can see temps rocket to 95+

Unless there is a miracle in the next few days, i'll be going back to Sandybridge

3770KOC.jpg
[/IMG]
 
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somewhatdamaged said:
Not impressed so far tbh, tempted to return and get a 2700K instead

Running a (decent!) 240mm radiator watercooled loop, 3770K @ 4.5Ghz 1.24vcore and hitting 74 degrees on prime95

if i increase the voltage much more, i can see temps rocket to 95+

Unless there is a miracle in the next few days, i'll be going back to Sandybridge
Click to expand...

Im going from a 2700k to a 3770k hmmm - wondering if Im making the right choice. Wont be getting cpu for 2 weeks thou. Comfortably running 2700 at 4.6 even with my borked h80 cooler.
 
djxput said:
Im going from a 2700k to a 3770k hmmm - wondering if Im making the right choice. Wont be getting cpu for 2 weeks thou. Comfortably running 2700 at 4.6 even with my borked h80 cooler.
Click to expand...

Keep the 2700k. The "upgrade" to a 3770k from a 2700k seems pretty much pointless.
 
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Upgrading from a 2700K to a 3770K only has very minor benefits.

PCI-E 3.0 which isn't required yet, a better IGP and a better memory controller.

The new IGP is probably the biggest improvement. If you use quicksync you'd notice it.

The actual raw CPU performance though, will be around 3-5% faster than your 2700K at the same clock - not exactly a major difference. If you have a decent 2700K that overclocks well, I'd stick with it.
 
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It's an interesting equation.

i) There are gains in an IB of a few % compared to SB at stock speeds
ii) There are gain in IB memory speeds
iii) There are losses in IB overclocking compared to SB

For overall system performance, does i) + ii) outweigh iii)?

If you're not an overclocker, or you are happy with modest overclocks, then probably "Yes".
If you're a power overclocker then most likely "No".

At the moment I think most people posting results are exploring iii), are assuming i) is as read and almost completely ignoring ii).
 
Well here is mine after prime for 30 minutes

Voltage: 1.25
BCLK Frequency: 102.3
Multiplyer: 44
Clock: 4501mhz
Max Temps Small FFT: 77 88 83 78

What you guys reckon? Anything i can do to improve?
 
demon8991 said:
Well here is mine after prime for 30 minutes

Voltage: 1.25
BCLK Frequency: 102.3
Multiplyer: 44
Clock: 4501mhz
Max Temps Small FFT: 77 88 83 78

What you guys reckon? Anything i can do to improve?
Click to expand...

Depends on the cooler as thats rather high temps and low voltages. Could try just 100 BLCK and 45 multi to see if that improves things/is stable at lower volts.

EDIT: NVM was just seeing the 88, other temps aren't so bad.
 
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Here's mine @4.6Ghz, cooled on a custom loop with a triple Rad. I seem to have one core 5c higher than the rest, which has peaked at 78c after 3Hrs of prime, I re-applied the TIM but it made no difference. Temps are very poor considering the cooling, I ran an x58 board on this loop with an 980x, I could feel the heat coming from the Rad, and the tubing got warm under stress, now it's all cool, this chip doesn't seem to dissipate heat very well.


ivybridge.jpg
 
hanluc said:
this chip doesn't seem to dissipate heat very well.
Click to expand...

Pretty much what all the reviewers found and predicted.

3D transistors mean that heat dissipation from the one below the surface is poor (think of an upside-down pyramid, heat from the "point" has to travel up through the "base" to reach the heatsink).

Due to the above, the architecture itself means there will be a solid thermal "wall" beyond which only extreme cooling like LN will be able to penetrate.
 
covenantuk said:
Pretty much what all the reviewers found and predicted.

3D transistors mean that heat dissipation from the one below the surface is poor (think of an upside-down pyramid, heat from the "point" has to travel up through the "base" to reach the heatsink).

Due to the above, the architecture itself means there will be a solid thermal "wall" beyond which only extreme cooling like LN will be able to penetrate.
Click to expand...

Whatever it is, not enough heat is dissipating to the IHS for the heatsink to further dissipate so even multiple triple rads wouldn't help much more. Like you say the only way is sub-ambient temps, not LN2 though. Even chilled water would do a job so adding an aquarium water chiller or something to the loop would do wonders, but they're pretty expensive and one would need to worry about condensation.
 
Heres a quick run at 48x, 1.4v. Any lower than 1.4v and it wasn't stable.

One of the cores was hitting 92c after only 2 minutes, and that was with my H100 set to maximum.

DID1E.jpg
 
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