*****OFFICIAL OcUK/JW IP35 Pro THREAD*****

Cairnsey said:
OK, so I've bought myself a cheap e6300 to test this theory and lo and behold, I still can't overclock very high. I'm trying to hit a measly 3.2Ghz from ~430fsb with my RAM at 1:1 giving me 860Mhz but it seems to be hitting a wall at ~390. Is my board broken or something? Anyway, I'm giving up on this board, it drives me insane...:mad:
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Do you just want to send it me and I'll make it work for you?:D
 
Cairnsey said:
could you be a sweatheart and post some key BIOS settings to see if I'm missing anything?;)
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I've already posted the best settings I've found for E8400, Q6600 and E4300 - just have a search about this thread.

I can't play with an IP35-Pro because for some reason when I RMA'd my last one, having sold two, they sent me an Abit IP35-Pro as a replacement. And they don't seem to have any more J&W IP35-Pro's so they're a bit stuck.

I've never moved off the v1.3b BIOS because it works. I have no idea what they fixed in the v1.4 and v1.5 BIOSes but as far as I'm concerned v1.3b is the sweet-spot.
 
The single biggest issue I ever had with these was correctly setting the RAM - it seemed to have 3 places to change the RAM strapping and if you got any of them wrong, it messed up the overclock. For your E6300 to do 3.5GHz you'll need PC8000 RAM or better with the 1:1 divider.
 
Cairnsey said:
Well, I managed to boot up at 405Mhz after changing some settings that WERE NOT in the frequency/voltage screen. I instantly thought 'woohoo, it's fixed!' went back into BIOS and set 430 and lo and behold it bombs out again. I Just need to find out exactly what it was I changed, that makes this possible.

Any ideas WJA96?
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Try the 400MHz strap as suggested by BUFF - it's at the bottom of the memory adjustment screen. Also - I prefer SATA to be [FIXED] and PCIe seems to need to be set over 100 for stability - try 105 or 110. And what's the Northbridge heatsink feeling like? You might need active cooling on it at over 400FSB.

Cairnsey said:
I played about with a lot of settings, but maybe something in the PC Health Status screen is the answer?
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It shouldn't be - unless you have the System temperature shutdown switched on or something? What is your CPU temperature? Many E6300's had dished IHSs and needed lapping to run at high speeds reliably.

Cairnsey said:
P.S could someone please give me a brief rundown of PWM and all the settings relating to this board?
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PWM is a method controlling motor speeds (in this case a fan motor) by switching the current on and off very fast so that the motor pulses on and off rather runs slowly. Before Intel introduced PWM we only had voltage control which is OK, and it's linear so a fan that runs at 2000RPM at 12V will run at 1000RPM at 6V, but most fans need a minimum of 5V to keep turning over so your actual range of adjustment is 800-2000RPM, because if you drop the voltage below 5V you'll stop the fan, and there is no guarantee you'll get it started again. With PWM you always have the whole 12V applied, but you turn it off an on very fast. I made my own PWM fan controller which would run a fan as low as 100RPM. Also - with PWM you can stop and start the fan reliably.

To use the PWM controller settings, you need a 4-pin fan like the stock Intel HSF. Arctic Cooling, Scythe, Panaflo, Yate-Loon and a few others do PWM fans. If you have a PWM fan then you can set the temperature the fan will kick-in or stop at, and then how fast it ramps up the speed to 100%.
 
Jumping said:
My board stopped working :(

Last night my PC wouldn't switch on at all, was starting to think my new PSU was faulty but it wasn't as it works fine on my old p5n-e sli board.

So removed the bios battery for about 20min and now I can switch on the pc but there is no signal going to the screen and no information is shown on the led at the back of the motherboard so it looks to be dead.

I think I tried the dual bios option but not sure if I did it right might give that another shot when I get back from work....just in case.

I did email OcUK for an RMA request but so far I haven't heard anything and maybe some one here could shed some light on the RMA situation. This board was bought in March this year and was sold as ocuk value does that mean that ocuk will deal with the warranty for the full warranty period or does it still have to go back to j&w?

Any one else got any other ideas for me to test on this board, whilst im waiting for ocuk to come back with to me about my rma request.
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The dual BIOS probably won't help if there is nothing on the diagnostic display. Both my IP35-Pro's died, the first was replaced under warranty, the second (more recently) was replaced with a B-grade Abit IP35-Pro, which woul dbe an upgrade, but there was no I/O shield or bundle with it so it's basically unusable as it stands. I really need to chase up Yewen to get it sorted, but they will honour the warranty one way or another.
 
Yes, they all came with a horrid rubbery socket protector, but they ASUS one should also fit, it's just a bit tricky to do it. Fit the t-shaped bit first, then snap the other bit down too.
 
Jumping said:
I wonder if I will get a new J&W board or not.
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It's very unlikely - unless they get any RMA boards back, they don't have any new ones and I suspect the best you can hope for is a B-grade Abit IP35-Pro which is a pretty decent spec for spec replacement, even if it was originally a lot more expensive.
 
I also had one die while in the hands of Royal Mail. For some reason they only paid £50 compensation, but that's all I sold it for second hand.
 
Angilion said:
Will my old PSU with a 20-pin ATX connector work with this board?
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Yes. It'll be fine as long as it has a square 4-pin 'Intel' power lead as well. that plugs in elsewhere on the board, but even that can be powered off a normal 4-pin molex with an adaptor.
 
The chipset driver is an exe file, so just run it like any other program. The audio and LAN drivers are zipped files, so you need to extract the drivers first, then you can run them from the install.exe files.
 
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