Soldato
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- 24 Sep 2015
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I'd expect UniFi to grumble that a non UniFi device is broadcasting the same SSID but an error about a shared IP address is definitely not expected.
*** Official Ubiquiti Discussion Thread ***
- Thread starter RoyMi6
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I'd expect UniFi to grumble that a non UniFi device is broadcasting the same SSID but an error about a shared IP address is definitely not expected.
Out of interest whats the use case?
I currently have a domain with wildcard cert.. I use cloudflare tunnels (per VLAN) to access all my services remotely using a subdomain for each and locally I use the equivalent of 'local DNS record' for specific clients but being local I use a different subdomain name, however use the same TLD..
Obviously this means I have a remote subdomain and local subdomain on the same TLD for each service, this was just my ignorance in wanting to use the same wildcard certificate for every HTTPS service locally and remotely...
So just wondered what other people do in case I can improve things!
To be fair the PTZ is very much a toy I wanted but didn’t need.Don't Delay, Order from the UI Store today
The bullet is more than adequate for the job. Particularly given there are 2 other cameras covering the same area the PTZ would.
All of my services are local and not exposed to WAN, so never went further than just using x.domain.uk for a number of different services using Traefik and docker. So I just needed *.domain.uk to resolve to my local IP. I may make some things available from outside but no massive need yet and the UniFi teleport gets me in just fine despite the double NAT situation I still have with Virgin Media.
I would like to figure out how to get Cloudflare working to expose some services eventually though.
I do everything via Cloudflare, then have local entries for each service I have behind Traefik. Probably not the cleanest, but it works well enough.
I bought U6's because the U7's have compromises in 2.4GHz and quite frankly WiFi 7 is utterly useless to me, plus the U6 Pro is known to be absolutely rock solid.
They'll work nicely until WiFi 8, which will be a proper upgrade. Now what will be annoying is if their U8 stuff uses that same damn smaller mounting plate as the U7s, because if you use the outside holes on a U6 mount plate (like the stencil makes you do) then you're hosed. Stupid design.
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Doesnt really matter now as I got the U6 Extender installed now, replacing the TP-Link Extender. Completely Unified now. I do need to shop around for a slimmer EU to UK Adaptor plug as it does look a bit silly sticking out a bit from the wall.
The U6 Pro and Mesh are rock solid. We've had quite a few issues at work with the U7 Pro's, got 30 in storage ready to replace some old NanoHD's once the firmware is stable. The ones we have deployed we've had to run old firmware on them to get them to work reliably.
Is UniFi still the way to go for home WiFi these days?
At the moment I've got 4 Extreme Networks AC points and it's done me fine for a while now. All are PoE powered. Starting to show its age with regards to speed now that I've got 1Gb internet. Router is a Dell Optiplex running OpnSense with an Intel quad-NIC. I have a Qnap NAS that can run the UniFi management software. Switching is HPe.
I was thinking about going for a single U7-Pro in the high-traffic area of my living room and then 3 U7-Lites in bedrooms and workshop.
Sounds OK?
At the moment I've got 4 Extreme Networks AC points and it's done me fine for a while now. All are PoE powered. Starting to show its age with regards to speed now that I've got 1Gb internet. Router is a Dell Optiplex running OpnSense with an Intel quad-NIC. I have a Qnap NAS that can run the UniFi management software. Switching is HPe.
I was thinking about going for a single U7-Pro in the high-traffic area of my living room and then 3 U7-Lites in bedrooms and workshop.
Sounds OK?
Can't comment on the AP choice but I essentially did the same thing for many years - running APs with a locally hosted controller and my own router (MikroTik in my case). However, having the UniFi gateway improves the experience further (and leads to other spending...).
Interesting. Buying the Dream Router 7 for example would only be £100 more than buying the U7-Pro for the living room and could do the job of that I guess.
I started out last week with 2 x U7-Pros, one mounted centrally downstairs and one upstairs, the idea being I’d then find out what dead spots I had before ordering some extra APs but am finding just the two is working out quite well with the controller showing good AP density on all bands..
I have an outdoor AP, but only 1 device internally is connecting to that.
There is also the Express 7 router/AP for only £30 more than a U7-Pro which saves £70 over the UDR7, which only adds the (very limited) ability to have cameras connected.
I have an outdoor AP, but only 1 device internally is connecting to that.
There is also the Express 7 router/AP for only £30 more than a U7-Pro which saves £70 over the UDR7, which only adds the (very limited) ability to have cameras connected.
Update on G4 Doorbell Pro for anyone considering it for UK/EU. I've wired it all in on a desk, using the included 16v transformer (in a DIN enclosure, wired to a normal 3-pin plug with 3A fuse!) and the Honeywell D117 chime. It powered on but the chime didn't work at first, so I thought I'd done something wrong. I had enabled the mechanical chime in the settings. I was very worried as lots of people struggling with this according to posts online. However, after an hour or two of being plugged in the chime started working perfectly, most likely due to the internal battery of the doorbell needing a charge.
Next step is to get the wiring runs and wall mounting done for real, which is going to be a bit of a challenge but at least I know it all works well together. Then decide on what to change the dog animation to instead!
EDIT: Also if anyone wants a bill of materials for everything you'd need to purchase to do this, I can provide if you're interested in getting it setup. I had no existing wired doorbell in the house, so needed everything...
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I don’t think I’ve had an unstable router since I had an NTL cable nearly 20 years ago.
That includes cheap and nasty ISP and more premium non-ISP routers. I don’t really think that is a thing anymore.
I’ve had an old USG for a few years and I’ve not had to touch it once set up. I had to pull it out due to ISP restrictions for a year but that was nothing to do with the USG.
That includes cheap and nasty ISP and more premium non-ISP routers. I don’t really think that is a thing anymore.
I’ve had an old USG for a few years and I’ve not had to touch it once set up. I had to pull it out due to ISP restrictions for a year but that was nothing to do with the USG.
There's nothing particularly wrong with OpnSense and honestly it probably has more configurability and stability. I was in a similar situation with MikroTik stuff. It was rock solid and you can do almost anything with even their basic kit. Not that the UniFi gateways aren't solid. They seem great but I haven't been running mine long enough to comment.
The UniFi gateways give you the network controller hosting (and other apps depending on which you purchase) but most importantly integrate with the other gear to make managing clients, radios, settings etc. much more streamlined. You also get great data and traffic visualisation and user interface for the router which is joyful to use compared to most typical router OS. I'm also using Protect with cameras which I knew I wanted to adopt at some point, which further brings together the management and interface of that. I notice also with the switches, APs etc. if you use all UniFi gear setting up VLANs and so on is much cleaner as it's through one method. With mixed kit there is mixed terminology and 2 different interfaces to learn and adjust as you setup and make subsequent changes. Other things I've found useful - VPN client and server (although my previous router could do this too). I'm just getting started with it...
Which chime are you using, is it mechanical or electronic/wireless?
I’ve got an older wired G4 (non-pro) and the internal battery is now pretty weak. When it’s cold outside, the doorbell reboots because the battery can no longer power the doorbell when the mechanical chime is triggering.
The G4 Pro has a much bigger battery so it is not likely to be so much of an issue. I’m just debating what to do with mine:
1) replace it with a G4 pro
2) replace the chime for a wireless one but is still triggered by the doorbell wiring
3) get a POE chime and go full ubiquity
4) do 1 and 3
I expect the G4 Pro will get replaced shortly, it’s been on the market for a long time now and G6 cameras are launching which are 4K by default so I’m reluctant to pull the trigger on 1.
2 isn’t guaranteed to fix it and 3 is out of stock.
I guess I could do 5 and do nothing as it is t cold outside until October now so no rush. I’ve looked into replacing the battery but there doesn’t seem to be anything suitable available.
I'm using the Honeywell D117 which is a wired mechanical chime. I chose it as I wanted that immediate classic doorbell sound as well as something reliable and that would work with future doorbells if I ever changed back to a 'dumb' one or moved house etc. It just seemed more reliable than a WiFi/PoE and probably louder and more distinctive. In the end with the other wiring needed, not really much cheaper either. I'm also going to be relying heavily on notifications though iOS as well (either Protect app or Apple Home via Scrypted, whichever works best) as I often have AirPods in with noise cancelling and don't hear the doorbell (happened many times).
Is the G4 battery replaceable? I would try and fix it first personally (that's me though).
The G4 Pro has been around a while but only recently got some key functionality from its hardware, so hoping it will be supported for years to come. That's out of our hands though to some extent. I got tired of waiting for a new model.
Is the G4 battery replaceable? I would try and fix it first personally (that's me though).
The G4 Pro has been around a while but only recently got some key functionality from its hardware, so hoping it will be supported for years to come. That's out of our hands though to some extent. I got tired of waiting for a new model.
Pretty sure I have a D117, I’d need to check but it sounds familiar.
The G4 battery is ‘technically’ replaceable, pretty sure it’s soldered to the board but that wouldn’t stop me.
The issue is I’ve not found anything suitable and the discussions I found on Reddit basically all ended in the person giving up and buying a new one or moving to a non-mechanical chime.