Oil change hard to do?

Its a real easy job, iv just done mine. Make sure you dont over tighten the oil filter. Hand tight is enough, it will stay in place, and then when i comes to taking the filter off it doesnt require any tools. Apart from the fairing removal the only tool i needed was a 17mm spanner for the sump plug.

£11.50 for a genuine Honda oil filter!
 
ElliorR said:
If I ever win the lotto jackpot I'm going to buy a second hand bike and do just that to see how long it lasts.
Click to expand...
Save your money... and a perfectly good bike:

Based on my own experience, a bike suddenly without oil will run OK at consistent high speed certainly for up to 90 minutes, but chewing up the bearings as it goes... Then in the time it takes to roll off the throttle and drop from 80mph to about 60mph, it will grind to a halt, seize and (especially on shaft drives) lock your rear wheel into one MOTHER of a fish-tail... :eek:
 
Last edited:
years

I don't think its power 1 racing though,it says semi synthetic and power 1 racing is fully synthetic

oil don't go off far as I know,still a good deal nevertheless
 
Ah. Might go see if they have it in my local on the weekend in that case so I can make sure it's power1. They'd surely have to send you power 1 racing though? That's what's advertised after all even if the description is wrong.
 
f you leave oil for too long, as it's not longer under heat and pressure, it turns back into prehistoric flora and fauna.
 
FFS that oil has gone back up to a tenner which means that's what I'm going to be charged if they had any to send with my shop today!! :mad:
Even though it was still a fiver when I ordered yesterday.
 
wazza300 said:
if its a regular car type oil filter then usually u fill em up with oil,just to take out any air gap/no lubrication as the oil circulates

and sump/crush washers ive never had to replace it

upto you though,new one wouldn't hurt im just saying
Click to expand...

you can reaneal the copper washers a few times.
 
All you need to remember is not to take the level with the bike on the side stand.

Because it will be wrong.

Very wrong.
 
atpbx said:
All you need to remember is not to take the level with the bike on the side stand.
Click to expand...
Again, check the owners handbook first - Some bikes, especially those without centrestands, are designed to be checked this way... although admitedly few.

Tefal said:
you can reaneal the copper washers a few times.
Click to expand...
It's a 50p washer, designed to compress to a certain shape when the sump plug is correctly torqued and form a tight seal, to stop your pressurised oil from peeing out while you're riding down the motorway...

While I'm sure you can re-use them, why risk it over 50p... especially if your filter comes with a new one anyway?
Not sure on the cost-benefit ratio of re-annealing something so cheap, either. Perhaps an interesting exercise...
 
ttaskmaster said:
Again, check the owners handbook first - Some bikes, especially those without centrestands, are designed to be checked this way... although admitedly few.


It's a 50p washer, designed to compress to a certain shape when the sump plug is correctly torqued and form a tight seal, to stop your pressurised oil from peeing out while you're riding down the motorway...

While I'm sure you can re-use them, why risk it over 50p... especially if your filter comes with a new one anyway?
Not sure on the cost-benefit ratio of re-annealing something so cheap, either. Perhaps an interesting exercise...
Click to expand...

its not really designed to compress to a specific shape its just deigned to compress, but it gets harder each time, heat it till red chuck in water done.

its a 50 p washer you might realise the spare one you got is the wrong size or damaged etc after you've already taken the plug out :p
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom