Optimising cooling, recommendations?

[BoomAM]

I know Asus A1 suite holds fan curves when closed. It allows curves to be set from windows instead of having to go into Bios. I have found that AI suite has to have fan tune-up./set-up ran before setting custom fan curves or the fan speed range is very limited.

Ok, thats good to know too.

With the Corsair Link software putting my fan curves into the "pump's memory", i dont have a need to keep it open, so AI suite should be behaving itself.
Now my only issue isn't cooling related, but is instead a return of this issue, but this time not in games, but in Windows!?

 

[BoomAM]

So after a few hours of DX:MD last night, i noticed that the components around the CPU socket (MB temp sensor, 970 NVME, VRMs, etc.) were all getting a bit toasty, and the case side 'above' them was a bit hot.
Then it dawned on me why...the internal case temp was high, as the exhaust fan was linked to the temperature of the CPU....which is on the AIO and always pretty cool running.

So i changed it in the UEFI to have both the exhaust and the 'new' bottom intake set on standard mode, sensor set as the motherboard one.
Hopefully that'll help!

Although i am considering replacing these 140mm fans, as even though they are quiet at full whack, they dont appear to shift much air...

 

[doyll]

So after a few hours of DX:MD last night, i noticed that the components around the CPU socket (MB temp sensor, 970 NVME, VRMs, etc.) were all getting a bit toasty, and the case side 'above' them was a bit hot.
Then it dawned on me why...the internal case temp was high, as the exhaust fan was linked to the temperature of the CPU....which is on the AIO and always pretty cool running.

So i changed it in the UEFI to have both the exhaust and the 'new' bottom intake set on standard mode, sensor set as the motherboard one.
Hopefully that'll help!

Although i am considering replacing these 140mm fans, as even though they are quiet at full whack, they dont appear to shift much air...

Rather common problem with water cooling and why there are motherboard waterblocks.
The R6 case fans are Dynamic X2 GP-14 are simply too wimpy to do the job .. great case / lousy case fans. The only make 0.88mm H2O static pressure and 52.3 cfm eat full speed. If you replaced them with something like P-F140MP which makes 1.62mm H2O and 68.1cfm at 1600rpm or TY-147A which makes 1.56mm H2O and 73.64cfm at 1300rpm, so will move as much air at half speed as stock case fan do at full speed on Amazon. Another really good fan would be CoolJag Everflow 140mm PWM from PugetSystems. It is same basic hi-performance fan as TY-143 but when used in 550-1300rpm is same as TY-147A. Specs say 600rpm, but I've found they idle at 500-550rpm.

Also, here is basic tutorial to how airflow works and how to optimize case airflow.
https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/t...-i-put-my-temp-sensor.18564223/#post-26159770

 

[BoomAM]

Rather common problem with water cooling and why there are motherboard waterblocks.
The R6 case fans are Dynamic X2 GP-14 are simply too wimpy to do the job .. great case / lousy case fans. The only make 0.88mm H2O static pressure and 52.3 cfm eat full speed. If you replaced them with something like P-F140MP which makes 1.62mm H2O and 68.1cfm at 1600rpm or TY-147A which makes 1.56mm H2O and 73.64cfm at 1300rpm, so will move as much air at half speed as stock case fan do at full speed on Amazon. Another really good fan would be CoolJag Everflow 140mm PWM from PugetSystems. It is same basic hi-performance fan as TY-143 but when used in 550-1300rpm is same as TY-147A. Specs say 600rpm, but I've found they idle at 500-550rpm.

Also, here is basic tutorial to how airflow works and how to optimize case airflow.
https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/t...-i-put-my-temp-sensor.18564223/#post-26159770

Cheers, i'll give it a full read i the morning.
So the TL: DR would be the alternative fans you suggest would shift more air but be the same/similar level of noise?

 

[doyll]

Cheers, i'll give it a full read i the morning.
So the TL: DR would be the alternative fans you suggest would shift more air but be the same/similar level of noise?

If my answers are to long to read, don't expect me to try an help you. I'm willing to help, but I'm not doing it for you.

I'll give you a 2nd chance; yes, higher pressure rated fasns give better airflow at similar, probably lower noise levels because they have much higher abilty to overcome resistance.

The real difference is static pressure rating is almost doubled at similar rpm. This means their ability to overcome grill and filter resistance is greatly increased. Grill and filter create something like 0.3-0.4mm H2O resistance, so you stock fan with .88mm at full speed are running at half speed they are making about 0.4-.05mm pressure .. only 0.1mm more than resistance so not much airflow. But with a better fan making 1.3-1.5mm H2O at 1300rpm at half seed thye are making 0.6-0.7mm .. almost twice the resistance so much more airflow.

 

[LuckyBenski]

Rant

He didn't say he didn't read it, he was asking for you to confirm his understanding of it. If he didn't read it how could he speculate on its contents?

 

[doyll]

Ranting about something you don't know:
He didn't say he didn't read it, he was asking for you to confirm his understanding of it. If he didn't read it how could he speculate on its contents?

You are worse than kettle calling pot black.
You don't seem to know what 'TL; DR' means, which is 'too long; didn't read'

He said 'TL; DR'. All I did was believe what he said.

I assume he read a little and that is why I gave him an answer.

 

[BoomAM]

If my answers are to long to read, don't expect me to try an help you. I'm willing to help, but I'm not doing it for you.

I'll give you a 2nd chance

I stopped reading any further than this.

As LuckyBenski pointed out, i was asking to confirm my initial understanding in a more 'layman's' terms.
If you cannot be civil when i have both thanked you for the link and also asked for confirmation, then i'd like to ask you to not participate in this thread further, as useful as your participation & suggestions have been thus far.
Again, thank you for the link, i'll re-read and corroborate my understanding with other sources, it will be useful as i 'tune' this system.

...all of which is a polite way to say, perhaps tomorrow get up on the other side of the bed.

Moving on, unfortunatelly the suggested Phantek fans arn't available at the local MC it doesnt appear
What are the thoughts on the TT Riing 14 series? They seem ok rated from a quick search about.
Or the HEC Cougar 140?

 

[doyll]

I stopped reading any further than this.

As LuckyBenski pointed out, i was asking to confirm my initial understanding in a more 'layman's' terms.
If you cannot be civil when i have both thanked you for the link and also asked for confirmation, then i'd like to ask you to not participate in this thread further, as useful as your participation & suggestions have been thus far.
Again, thank you for the link, i'll re-read and corroborate my understanding with other sources, it will be useful as i 'tune' this system.

...all of which is a polite way to say, perhaps tomorrow get up on the other side of the bed.

Moving on, unfortunatelly the suggested Phantek fans arn't available at the local MC it doesnt appear
What are the thoughts on the TT Riing 14 series? They seem ok rated from a quick search about.
Or the HEC Cougar 140?

Wow! You tell me TL; DR as if my posting takes too long to read, I tell you I'm willing to help as long as you are willing to learn by reading what I post so you can make informed choices and I'm the one who is not being civil / respectful???? You were disrespectful of my effort to give you information by saying TL; DR.

Everything I posted is in layman's terms

So unless you give me a different meaning of what TL; DR stands for it seem you started the disrespect / un-civil posting.

I won't use anything with Tt branding.

Cougar Vortex are just okay, but not really very good. Honestly they are no better than Arctic F14 (all but Pro) which cost much less.
http://thermalbench.com/2015/02/06/cougar-vortex-pwm-cf-v12hpb-120mm-fan/3/

 

[Ross Thomson]

So after a few hours of DX:MD last night, i noticed that the components around the CPU socket (MB temp sensor, 970 NVME, VRMs, etc.) were all getting a bit toasty, and the case side 'above' them was a bit hot.

define toasty?

as you have no airflow on the VRM components they will get hotter than normal. remove the cover on the top and turn the exhaust fan round as an intake. I've got a water cooled card no no real heat comes from that inthe case but the rear fan turned to intake made a big difference on my old B350 tomahawk board. lowers current x470 gaming M7 VRM's by 4-5C but they only hover around 56C without a fan during an AIDA64 test @ 1.325v and 60C at 1.44v

 

[BoomAM]

define toasty?
as you have no airflow on the VRM components they will get hotter than normal. remove the cover on the top and turn the exhaust fan round as an intake. I've got a water cooled card no no real heat comes from that inthe case but the rear fan turned to intake made a big difference on my old B350 tomahawk board. lowers current x470 gaming M7 VRM's by 4-5C but they only hover around 56C without a fan during an AIDA64 test @ 1.325v and 60C at 1.44v

The motherboard sensors were hitting north of 60*c, along with the M.2s.

This morning was the first time I've had a chance to do some real testing/gaming since changing what the intake/exhaust fans were linked too, about an hour of Wolfenstein2. Temps were noticeably better, around 10-15*c better from a quick glance at HWInfo, and the case side was no warmer than the rest of the case.
Admittedly an hour of Wolf2 isnt quite the same 'test' as DX:MD for a few hours, but a good start at this point.

RE: top exhausts/top of case, I've been trying to think of ways i can do it without cat hair and dust dropping in, but as there's no dust filter on the top, i'm not sure its possible to do.

 

[BoomAM]

...actually, i'm wrong about the dust filter at the top of the R6, it does have one...completely forgot!
I'll have to work out if there's a way i can get it so the cat's cant sit on top though for it to be usable, as the mesh looks a bit fragile.

 

[Ross Thomson]

spikes?

 

[doyll]

...actually, i'm wrong about the dust filter at the top of the R6, it does have one...completely forgot!
I'll have to work out if there's a way i can get it so the cat's cant sit on top though for it to be usable, as the mesh looks a bit fragile.

Problem with top venting is it tends to disrupt front to back airflow. Do you have 2x front and 1x bottom good intake fans? Data I posted before show how bad the stock cases fans are. 0.88mm H2O is only a little of half what is needed. At full speed they can barely overcome the resistance a good fan can at 600-700rpm. Find a fan that has a static pressure rating in the range of 1.34@cc1300rm or 1.6@cc1500-1600rpm. Then 2x front and 1x bottom with all PCIe slot covers removed can supply all the air you could ever need with front top controlled by CPU temp and front bottom and bottom controlled by GPU temp. Fan curve sat 30% PWM idle, 70-80% PWM at 60c-65c and 100% above 65c. Normal use they will run at 50-60% PWM and only with extreme / 100% load on CPU and GPU will CPU temps go above 65c .. GPU temps should stay below about 75c depending on card. Play with curve to get it right. Monitor air temp into CPU and GPU fans and set case fans fast enough to supply air no more than 3-5c above room ambient.

 

[BoomAM]

spikes?

haha, could be an option.