Oven wiring diagrams and error codes

rodders · 6 May 2024 at 11:42

Anyone ever found a good place to find them? I guess it's not the sort of thing openly available.

F19 code, AEG site stops at F18 and skips over! Typical. Can't find anything definitive from googling.

Looking for an AEG DUE711130M

Mr.Cookie · 6 May 2024 at 12:54

Is that model number correct and not a due731110m, in any case chuck the pnc up as there's a few revisions of that model

booyaka · 6 May 2024 at 13:15

https://cdn2.hughes.co.uk/common/manuals/AEG-DUE731110M-M.pdf

User manual...

https://www.aeg.co.uk/support/support-articles/cooking/ovens/oven-displays-error-code-with-prefix-f/

If your oven displays error code F there could be several reasons behind this. Due to the nature of these faults, they will require specialist engineers to investigate and resolve this for you.

These codes help our engineers narrow down the possible causes of the fault you are having, so they can get the appliance up and running again in the shortest time possible.

You can turn the oven off by the mains and switch it back on after 30 seconds to see if it clears the fault.

rodders · 6 May 2024 at 18:18

Thats me being dyslexic with the model number, lol.

That aeg site doesn't show f19, was looking earlier.

Mr.Cookie · 6 May 2024 at 22:19

@rodders your quite right F19 doesn't exist, pop the pnc and serial up and I'll have a chat with technical but of the top of my head I think its a software issue.

rodders · 7 May 2024 at 07:36

It seems to be board related in my diagnosis, as it's not putting out the right voltage to the top oven elements correctly in the diff modes, but they test ok ohms wise.

Mr.Cookie · 7 May 2024 at 11:34

F1** is power board related but I've got a sense of deja vue about it, can't remember why though.

Part is https://shop.electrolux.co.uk/cooki...figured-printed-circuit-board/p/8996619281364

But if I were you I'd just get a fixed price repair at £169

rodders · 8 May 2024 at 06:54

I've seen the board for £129, I'm quite sure, but not 100% it's that.
The fixed price repair probably is the best way to go.
Annoying that an element blowing (original start of this) has taken the board out.

Mr.Cookie · 8 May 2024 at 19:40

rodders said:
I've seen the board for £129, I'm quite sure, but not 100% it's that.
The fixed price repair probably is the best way to go.
Annoying that an element blowing (original start of this) has taken the board out.

It's very unusual for an element to take one of our boards out, although I have seen fan motors do it.

Technical came back to me asking...

Does it happen every time
Does it clear if you power it off and on?
Does it stop oven functionality, both compartments or just one?

rodders · 8 May 2024 at 20:35

Mr.Cookie said:
It's very unusual for an element to take one of our boards out, although I have seen fan motors do it.

Technical came back to me asking...

Does it happen every time
Does it clear if you power it off and on?
Does it stop oven functionality, both compartments or just one?

1) not quite sure in reference to what, but the error is always there, the top oven won't warm up fully ,except in grill or turbo grill.
2) the error wont clear, regardless of how long you leave it off.
3) bottom oven is fine. It only affects the top oven. Turbo grill and grill work in top oven and will get to temp. The other modes don't, which utilise the bottom element and ring element.

I don't think we ever used the bottom oven grill element and I used it one day and bang.
This element had gone to earth and tripped the RCD.
I isolated the element and then the top oven wouldn't warm up in normal convection mode, just hoovered around 100C.
I thought maybe it didn't like having the bottom grill element isolated, so I bought a new one, installed it and that all worked ok, but the top oven still wouldn't warm in normal convection mode.
So it really seems to be the element going that did it, as it was perfect before.

Mr.Cookie · 8 May 2024 at 22:15

rodders said:
1) not quite sure in reference to what, but the error is always there, the top oven won't warm up fully ,except in grill or turbo grill.
2) the error wont clear, regardless of how long you leave it off.
3) bottom oven is fine. It only affects the top oven. Turbo grill and grill work in top oven and will get to temp. The other modes don't, which utilise the bottom element and ring element.

I don't think we ever used the bottom oven grill element and I used it one day and bang.
This element had gone to earth and tripped the RCD.
I isolated the element and then the top oven wouldn't warm up in normal convection mode, just hoovered around 100C.
I thought maybe it didn't like having the bottom grill element isolated, so I bought a new one, installed it and that all worked ok, but the top oven still wouldn't warm in normal convection mode.
So it really seems to be the element going that did it, as it was perfect before.

If it has the function (sorry not looked at the manual) does the base element in top oven heat up (base heat only or conventional mode) should feel warm within a couple of minutes.

Can you measure insulation and well as continuity, I find anything lower than 10Meg can cause gremlins to crop up and elements don't like not being used as you've found out

Looking at the wiring diagram there is also a secondary relay box (K1) that seems to be top oven related

Mr.Cookie · 8 May 2024 at 22:35

Just in case (sorry if this sounds off) the links are in the terminal block and all tight, not sure what you had to do to work on it for grill element i.e to short a supply cable.

rodders · 9 May 2024 at 06:52

Tip oven has a pizza mode, which uses the bottom element, it doesn't get 240v, so doesn't warm up properly. Gets approved 135v.

All elements insulation is good, I have the figures at home, but all very high.

I've checked the relay for the top oven, terminals are open and apply 240v (via alternative source) and they close, 0.4ohm across them. My leads were about 0.3ohm of that.

All leads checked on the terminal block and tight.

Thanks for the drawing, I'll have a scan over it.

rodders · 15 May 2024 at 16:38

@Mr.Cookie taken a bit of time lol, but fixed it. Turns out the top cavity grill element was wired up incorrectly from new!
The bottom element or ring element selected, it was pulling it's power through the grill element as well.
It makes sense why I burnt myself on the grill element once when the oven was warming up, when it shouldn't have been on.

Also make sense why things on conventional oven where cooking really uneven, the grill element was putting out heat.

The only thing that doesn't make sense, is why that one time the top cavity wouldn't heat up, but I don't think I'll waste time trying to work that out.

Each element now only see's 240v when it's selected and 0v on the others.

Mr.Cookie · 15 May 2024 at 17:37

rodders said:
@Mr.Cookie taken a bit of time lol, but fixed it. Turns out the top cavity grill element was wired up incorrectly from new!
The bottom element or ring element selected, it was pulling it's power through the grill element as well.
It makes sense why I burnt myself on the grill element once when the oven was warming up, when it shouldn't have been on.

Also make sense why things on conventional oven where cooking really uneven, the grill element was putting out heat.

The only thing that doesn't make sense, is why that one time the top cavity wouldn't heat up, but I don't think I'll waste time trying to work that out.

Each element now only see's 240v when it's selected and 0v on the others.

Interesting it's only just started misbehaving though, had anyone else look at it?

Glad your sorted though

rodders · 15 May 2024 at 18:20

Well, during fault diagnosis, it was reaching temperature over the last few days.
(Edit - it should in theory too, albeit the heat energy is coming from two elements in series, it should still have been given out around the same output overall)

I really can't work out on that occasion after tripping the RCD why it wouldn't heat up.
I know we chucked a load of veg in to roast, maybe I was being impatient and it would have made temp, but from seeing the timer, normally it 'would' have heated up by then. I didn't do anything different to what I normally would.
Maybe I was looking into it too much, as the other element went, just assumed that had a fault to.

no one else looked at it.

Perhaps I lead myself down the wrong garden path, but in doing so found an actual fault and now that's fixed, working like it should have from new lol.