PARVUM FTW
- Thread starter JR23
- Start date
Soldato
Looks amazing. Great attention to detail.
Back again, farms was good and even with the extra hour I was still playing at 4am but I did manage to wake up early enough to get some progress in today. Just.
I decided to do all of the GPU cables first just to get a sizable portion out of the way, 32 straight wires, 8 of each colour, Grand Blue, Platinum Grey, Shade 19 and Black.
Now to get them in and start training!
Well still lots more cables to go and a bit more training once they are all in place but all going well so far.
JR
Soldato
I'm so jealous of your skills with the braiding. My attempts were shocking at best.
This is looking excellent as usual
This is looking excellent as usual
Soldato
Awesome cables as always dude.
Can you clarify for me though how you're stripping and crimping? I was under the impression that you'd want exactly 3mm of stripped wire to give contact on the pins and still crimp onto the insulation, however it looks like you're using the Knipex 12 62 180 which does a minimum strip length of 6mm (your pics of stripped wires look to be much longer than 3mm).
What tool are you using?
Can you clarify for me though how you're stripping and crimping? I was under the impression that you'd want exactly 3mm of stripped wire to give contact on the pins and still crimp onto the insulation, however it looks like you're using the Knipex 12 62 180 which does a minimum strip length of 6mm (your pics of stripped wires look to be much longer than 3mm).
What tool are you using?
The Knipex can still easily strip shorter than 6mm but the stop can only move to within 6mm of the cutter. I just line the end of the wire up with one tooth short of the stop to get consistent little strips, you can get a little bit more wire into the crimp too, but yeah ~3mm. I'm using 18 AWG 2.9mm OD PVC insulated wire from RS, shakmods crimps and MDPC-X crimping tool. The insulation is oversize for 18AWG but it just works with standard crimps, i've also got some MDPC-X supplied molex crimps to try out, just incase they are epic.
JR
Soldato
Ah right, cheers.
I fancy making my own cables for Asteria II, but I'm a long way off yet, but I'm always reading and researching.
I fancy making my own cables for Asteria II, but I'm a long way off yet, but I'm always reading and researching.
Soldato
Had a chat with Knipex - who were very helpful by the way - as I didn't think that stripper went as low as 3mm. Didn't occur to me there might be a reference point to line the wire up with. Definitely the cheaper option.
If it's any help I went for the Knipex 12 40 200 which will go down to 2.8mm. There are also the more expensive 12 42 195 which don't need the adjustment wheel. The 200's have only needed adjustment when I stripped a ribbon-set of four wires together.
Would be interested to know JR23, what your experience with crimps is like. I tried the Weierli SN-28B's and they just made a mess of the pins. I've got the E22 crimps and they're great for ATX pins but seem to make a bit of a mess of fan pins - they over-crimp and they're already at their lowest setting on the wheel. Not planning to buy any more but it'd be useful to know what works and what doesn't.
What do you use to smush the melted sleeve into the pin so consistently? I'm doing the same with paracord; heating it with the hot-air attachment of my gas soldering iron and then smushing it with my fingers. Doesn't seem to be as consistent though....and you have to be quick or suffer 3rd degree molten nylon burns to your fingertips!
If it's any help I went for the Knipex 12 40 200 which will go down to 2.8mm. There are also the more expensive 12 42 195 which don't need the adjustment wheel. The 200's have only needed adjustment when I stripped a ribbon-set of four wires together.
Would be interested to know JR23, what your experience with crimps is like. I tried the Weierli SN-28B's and they just made a mess of the pins. I've got the E22 crimps and they're great for ATX pins but seem to make a bit of a mess of fan pins - they over-crimp and they're already at their lowest setting on the wheel. Not planning to buy any more but it'd be useful to know what works and what doesn't.
What do you use to smush the melted sleeve into the pin so consistently? I'm doing the same with paracord; heating it with the hot-air attachment of my gas soldering iron and then smushing it with my fingers. Doesn't seem to be as consistent though....and you have to be quick or suffer 3rd degree molten nylon burns to your fingertips!
Soldato
That's partly why I asked the question - you and I had a chat about the E22 wire strippers which look like they're Kinpex 12 62 180s, but people are using them nicely.
Sacrificial 3:1 heatshrink? Stick it on, shrink it down, tear it off again? Pretty sure I've seen a few guides on heatshrinkless method with paracord and it's not quite a straightforward as plastic-based sleeving from what I remember.
So far i've always used whatever crimps shakmods send me and they've been fine although when using 16AWG and way too big OD wire one side of the crimp around the insulation generally breaks off, but using 18AWG which is closer to spec for the crimps/tool has helped. I'm going to try MDPC-X molex crimps soon, i'll let you know how they go. Fan crimps are just meh, wire size varies so much they will never be just right.
I use heatshrink over the end of the sleeve, just as if about to do heatshrink style. Heat just the very end until the sleeve melts inside the shrink and then give it a pinch which is far less painful as heatshrink is a much better insulator than molten plastic or a crimp. Then just make a snip with scissors in the unshrunk end and pull off the shrink. Lutro0 has a great video of this method, maybe it's a little slower but I prefer it greatly as the sleeve can't expand when heated and generally it all works out pretty neat.
JR
Soldato
Noob question, JR (and others): how do you stitch fans together?
I won't have much space in my In Win 901 to have masses of excess fan cable when I put the 360 rad in, so I'm looking to splice and dice the 3 fans together onto a single 4-pin connector. Do I need to splice all 4 wires into their respective groups, or do I sacrifice 2 of the PWM sense wires?
Can't see from your fan pics.
I won't have much space in my In Win 901 to have masses of excess fan cable when I put the 360 rad in, so I'm looking to splice and dice the 3 fans together onto a single 4-pin connector. Do I need to splice all 4 wires into their respective groups, or do I sacrifice 2 of the PWM sense wires?
Can't see from your fan pics.
Keep all the PWM's and for the most accurate speed reporting just use one tach wire. If it's too many fans for one motherboard header you could always send the ground and +12V directly to the PSU. It's probably worth testing it before you finish the whole build too as occasionally PWM fans can just be a pest. I tried using SP120 PWM's with a PCB splitter once and any more than two just ran at 100%.
JR
Soldato
Thanks JR. Will give that a go when I sleeve my ATX....just need to wait for some sanity to return first 
LePhuronn: Worth noting as well that, with the exception of the CPU fan header, a lot of 4-pin motherboard fan headers don't actually do PWM. Worth consulting your motherboard manual....unless you're just slotting them on an Aquaero 6 header (or the one PWM header on a 5).
I think that some headers have more power over the PWM line than others. Also, some fans are fussier about the voltage on the PWM line. Might be why some fans don't pick it up when you stack them up on a single PWM header.
LePhuronn: Worth noting as well that, with the exception of the CPU fan header, a lot of 4-pin motherboard fan headers don't actually do PWM. Worth consulting your motherboard manual....unless you're just slotting them on an Aquaero 6 header (or the one PWM header on a 5).
I think that some headers have more power over the PWM line than others. Also, some fans are fussier about the voltage on the PWM line. Might be why some fans don't pick it up when you stack them up on a single PWM header.
Soldato
Cool. So, group the black, yellow and blue into their respective bundles, and only keep 1 green? Easy enough in theory 
The plan is to run these off the fan extension board on my Maximus VIII Impact, so that already has Molex power in it.
Cheers for the heads up on twitchy PWM!
The plan is to run these off the fan extension board on my Maximus VIII Impact, so that already has Molex power in it.
Cheers for the heads up on twitchy PWM!
Soldato
The Asus fan extension board still seems to be a mystical thing with no documentation. I'll be using it in full-on motherboard extension mode, whereby you connect it to the 5-pin header on the Impact and the board then provides 3 independently-controlled PWM headers and a couple of temp probes, and it's powered up by a Molex.
So in theory PWM signal and control should be good. And given all my fan and temp probe routing is kinda reliant on that board doing its job properly I hope it'll do the job!
Otherwise I'll just plug the 360 rad fans into the CPU header and run the pump sensor off a 3-pin somewhere else. Yuck
Associate
Looking like a nice build!
Seems to be standard procedure for me that final pics come over a year after actually finishing the build, still these things take time! Quick update of the specs, mostly the same aside Aquaero 5 > 6 and a Noctua NF-A14 fitted inside the PSU to keep it super quiet.
EVGA GTX1080 FTW
EVGA Z170 FTW
Intel Skylake i7-6700k
HyperX Predator 4x8GB
Samsung 950 PRO 256GB
Samsung 850 PRO 512GB x2
Western Digital Black 4TB x2
Silverstone Strider Platinum 1200W
Parvum R1.0 ATX Prototype II
EK-Supremacy EVO - Acetal + Nickel
EK-FC1080 GTX FTW - Acetal + Nickel x2
EK-FC1080 GTX FTW Backplate - Black x2
EK-XTOP Revo D5 PWM - Acetal (incl. pump)
EK-CoolStream XE 360 (Triple) x3
Bitspower BP-WTP-C47 Multi-Link Adapter x34
Bitspower BP-90R 90° Rotary Extender x10
Bitspower BP-WTP-C39 90° Extender x8
Bitspower BP-WTP-C04 Pass Through x8
Bitspower BP-WTP-C06 Stop Fitting x4
Bitspower BP-WTP-C60 15mm Extender x4
Aqua Computer Aquaero 6 LT
Aqua Computer Aquaero 6 Passive Heatsink
Noctua NF-F12 IndustrialPPC 2000RPM PWM x9
Noctua NF-A14 IndustrialPPC 2000RPM PWM 24v
Noctua NA-SAVP1 Chromax - Blue x5
Next week final pics for R1.0 INDUSTRIAL and PARVUM K! lol, actually not joking. New photo studio toys making shoots of complete builds far more enjoyable so time to revisit everything!
JR
Soldato
Beautiful