----'PARVUM SHEEDY'----

[parvumsystems]

Hi everyone! Once again we are here to bring you another cheeky Parvum project before Insomnia, don't worry though all the others are still progressing nicely. This build is for one of our friends Sheedy. A lightly modified VEER1.0 will be used to house this powerful yet compact LAN rig with overkill water cooling kit. The colour scheme will be a neutral white and frosted finish with grey and black accents.

Case | Custom Parvum VEER1.0
CPU | Intel i7-4770k
Motherboard | ASUS Maximus VII Impact
RAM | Corsair Vengeance 1600C9 2x4GB
GPU | ASUS GTX780
SSD | Kingston 240GB M.2
PSU | Silverstone Strider Gold ST65F-G

Fans | Parvum F1.0
Radiators | XSPC AX
Blocks | EKWB Nickel/Plexi
Fittings | EKWB 10/12 HDC Nickel
Rotaries | EKWB CSQ Nickel
Pumps | EKWB DDC + EKWB Heatsink

Thanks to our sponsors ASUS, EKWB and Silverstone, as well as fellow modders B_NEGATIVE and JR23 who have been helping out to keep everything moving along.

Straight in with some custom work from B_NEGATIVE on the Silverstone PSU, painting and branding the PSU to fit the theme and of course adding a Parvum F1.0 on reassembly. As both sides of the build will be on show it was important that the PSU remained aesthetically in-keeping, thanks to B_NEG it certainly is.

Just a few of the many fittings and radiators we managed to squeeze into the VEER1.0.

All the directions were roughly planned out by placing the components in a standard case. The finished article will now be built up around them so all the ports and components are placed exactly where they need to be.

What else but the mighty Impact kitted out with an M.2 SSD and much EKWB goodness.

Much more to come on this one, including some custom Parvum watercooling parts and many many fittings to make up for the sparse use of them so far.

 

[dacads]

I wouldn't mind a white PSU like that Where can I contact this B_NEGATIVE guy?

 

[parvumsystems]

I wouldn't mind a white PSU like that Where can I contact this B_NEGATIVE guy?

https://www.facebook.com/daniel.b.harper.3

 

[Brian18741]

Cannot wait to see where this goes! I was only wondering the other day how much watercooling stuff you could squeeze into the Veer1.0!

 

[colinmcr]

I love these threads,but they make me....

 

[Luggs]

Very very jealous, going to be right up my street...

 

[B N3GATIVE]

I wouldn't mind a white PSU like that Where can I contact this B_NEGATIVE guy?

Lol!

Here.

 

[B N3GATIVE]

https://www.facebook.com/daniel.b.harper.3

You could at least spam my FB page J.

https://www.facebook.com/bnegativeandmagoo?ref=hl



Sorry for the double post.....

 

[1nfamous]

Justin, the banner background better be what I think it is

 

[parvumsystems]

Things are moving along nicely with Parvum Sheedy after a few difficulties with acrylic and o-ring tolerances, it's now looking promising for the custom reservoir and pass through plates. Especially as we now have some 2mm o-ring cord that is actually bigger than 1.7mm

This plate will form the floor of the case linking the front and back parts of the loop, lighting the build and mounting the two DDC's.

In addition to the floor pass-through we have also fabricated a custom reservoir roof panel for the VEER flanking the top radiator with coolant.

Much more testing and fitting to come over the next week or two. Sorry this update was a little short on words, things are getting seriously busy as most of the projects are drawing toward an end. Feel free to ask questions about the build and i'll do my best to get back to you all.

 

[mods1965]

I am blown away by how great this looks. You continue to take retail case design to new levels. The idea of integrating the res into the fabric of the case is inspired. Are these going to offered for sale for those interested in doing the same?

 

[colinmcr]

Guys do you use any Silicon grease or Molykote 111 on the o-rings? Of course I'm assuming they are Nitrile ones, if they are silicone ones then no worries.

The frosted plates are extremely pro looking, love it...

 

[JR23]

Guys do you use any Silicon grease or Molykote 111 on the o-rings? Of course I'm assuming they are Nitrile ones, if they are silicone ones then no worries.

So far we haven't used any grease, they are all Nitrile cord, Magnus and the earlier projects with o-rings used 3.4mm cord. We used 2mm on the MATE test block to match the cord used on the EK coldplate with 2.5x1.5 grooves and that went well.

Since then it's been a bit mixed, we've broken a few counter bores in the 5mm lids when the o-ring has stood too proud and annoyingly on the first attempt on this one cut a little too deep for the o-ring which was only 1.8mm, combined with some variances in acrylic thickness that gave us a big headache. Pretty sure we will be switching to countersunk screws to get some more strength out of the 5mm lids and finding some nice consistent sized o-ring we can work with. May just have to try a little grease too.

JR

 

[parvumsystems]

I am blown away by how great this looks. You continue to take retail case design to new levels. The idea of integrating the res into the fabric of the case is inspired. Are these going to offered for sale for those interested in doing the same?

Thanks for the kind words. We've always wanted to offer a built in res type system for at least one if not all of our cases. The problem is the work SO well based on the specific hardware we build them around. Making something a little more universal would be the hard part.
That said however we are also very good friends with W/C companies at Parvum so even collaborating to have something more mass produced specifically for a Parvum with all the proper testing they can offer is a route we do want to head down.

Justin, the banner background better be what I think it is

Haha actually no. We did think about it but the sheer complexity of the loop meant it wasn't going to happen.

I think you will be the first to show this off ;D

 

[colinmcr]

So far we haven't used any grease, they are all Nitrile cord, Magnus and the earlier projects with o-rings used 3.4mm cord. We used 2mm on the MATE test block to match the cord used on the EK coldplate with 2.5x1.5 grooves and that went well.

Since then it's been a bit mixed, we've broken a few counter bores in the 5mm lids when the o-ring has stood too proud and annoyingly on the first attempt on this one cut a little too deep for the o-ring which was only 1.8mm, combined with some variances in acrylic thickness that gave us a big headache. Pretty sure we will be switching to countersunk screws to get some more strength out of the 5mm lids and finding some nice consistent sized o-ring we can work with. May just have to try a little grease too.

JR

Thanks for the detailed reply, very interesting read. I think it confirms the complexity of what you are doing and its not as simple as some of us might assume. When all we see are glorious images and not the actual manufacturing process. Do you think you'll get to a point where the groove depth/width and o-ring choice are standard, or will you evaluate on a project by project basis. I'd assume standardising it would save time and cost?
Sorry for all the question just find it interesting

 

[JR23]

Thanks for the detailed reply, very interesting read. I think it confirms the complexity of what you are doing and its not as simple as it some of us might assume. When all we see are glorious images and not the actual manufacturing process. Do you think you'll get to a point where the groove depth/width and o-ring choice are standard, or will you evaluate on a project by project basis. I'd assume standardising it would save time and cost?
Sorry for all the question just find it interesting

As of right now it's not our intention to make any of these things 'retail' they are just done project by project and as we become more confident in them they will probably start popping up in more of the bespoke commissions. Because of that there isn't much gain to be had from standardizing them completely as every part is pretty much drawn from scratch. As things get more complex we need to be aware of our limitations and what o-rings, screws etc.. can be sourced easily and work well together because cutting parts like the MATE block twice isn't fun and 10mm+ acrylic sure isn't cheap.

I guess it may seem exactly the same as making traditional waterblocks however there are some slightly different challenges. The groove for the o-ring is being milled into acrylic, a cast material, that naturally varies in thickness, because of that so does the groove depth. Most blocks would cut the groove into the cold plate which can quite easily be faced in the same process ensuring the groove depth is just as accurate as the machine itself. We could quite easily face the acrylic but that would rather compromise the appearance. Tapping the acrylic and relatively slender 5mm lids make things pretty interesting too although pulling threads out really hasn't been an issue.

It is true that not everything gets shown and the problems are rarely documented which is generally because it's a mad rush to get things right and back on track. When there is a leak or you just broke a part remembering that you are writing a project log falls down the priority list. Everything will be well shown in MATE, including final assembly of the block. I'm sort of doing that now, well it's half together while I await some rubber cord that actually looks like it's going to seal nicely.

AFAIK the parts for this project have been rectified today with 2.4mm cord, if they haven't then i'll be cleaning oil black mayhems up on wednesday as last I heard it was sitting on my desk leak testing.

JR

 

[colinmcr]

JR,

I have a new found appreciation as to what's going on in the background now, once again thanks for taking the time to reply, I hadn't considered that facing the frosted block would ruin the appearance, so I now understand why you have a variance in tolerance across the surface.

Looking forward to seeing the next update.

 

[mods1965]

JR,
Thanks for explaining so well what is going on with this work and just how complex it is. I am looking forward to seeing this at I55.

 

[parvumsystems]

JR,

I have a new found appreciation as to what's going on in the background now, once again thanks for taking the time to reply, I hadn't considered that facing the frosted block would ruin the appearance, so I now understand why you have a variance in tolerance across the surface.

Looking forward to seeing the next update.

Latest update..

The 2.4mm cord leaked over night. Was solid for 6 hours at work but small leaks over night. In from what I can tell two points.

The first 2mm cord actually came in at 1.7-1.8mm which is why we moved to the next size up at the local store. The new 2mm seems more true to 2mm so I will try this next.

We have also recut the lids to 2.2mm C/S rather than 2.65mm to get a little more strength when tightening down.
We think the 2.4mm may have been too high out of the channel and both put stress on the lid and possibly left areas damaged.
I think when you press really hard on a bigger o ring it leaves the area in between screws too high. Maybe...

We will report back. We are leaving the oil black coolant tests on JR's desk so if it does leak he gets the messy desk

 

[B N3GATIVE]

Latest update..

The 2.4mm cord leaked over night. Was solid for 6 hours at work but small leaks over night. In from what I can tell two points.

The first 2mm cord actually came in at 1.7-1.8mm which is why we moved to the next size up at the local store. The new 2mm seems more true to 2mm so I will try this next.

We have also recut the lids to 2.2mm C/S rather than 2.65mm to get a little more strength when tightening down.
We think the 2.4mm may have been too high out of the channel and both put stress on the lid and possibly left areas damaged.
I think when you press really hard on a bigger o ring it leaves the area in between screws too high. Maybe...

We will report back. We are leaving the oil black coolant tests on JR's desk so if it does leak he gets the messy desk

Erm....

Why use fluid? Airtesting is the way forward.....

http://www.overclock.net/t/1534282/how-to-correctly-leak-test-your-loop-101/0_20