Plug socket in water

The socket should be a hard wired appliance type socket mounted on the wall behind the appliance. Above this at the above counter level with other sockets should be a switched fused spur or a fused switch on a switch panel with other appliance switches. This way if the fuse should blow it's not on the appliance plug because there isn't one, the fuse would blow on one of the above places so that you can get to it easily. Anything else is just a bodge.
And lose your appliance warranty, no thanks.
 
I'm guessing none of you are professional electricians. If you are, you can't be in much demand if you're busy trolling a PC forum at 3pm on a Monday. :p
 
And lose your appliance warranty, no thanks.

It's the right way. I'm sure some of our instruction manuals for our integrated appliances made a reference to the plug being cut off being acceptable if it was wired in to an appliance socket by an electrician. That is the right way of doing it, you only have to look at any new build home in last so many decades to see that the kitchens usually have a switch plate somewhere above the counter with switches for all of the non readily accessible sockets behind appliances.
 
It's the right way. I'm sure some of our instruction manuals for our integrated appliances made a reference to the plug being cut off being acceptable if it was wired in to an appliance socket by an electrician. That is the right way of doing it, you only have to look at any new build home in last so many decades to see that the kitchens usually have a switch plate somewhere above the counter with switches for all of the non readily accessible sockets behind appliances.
It isn't "THE" right way - there are at least 4 referenced in the BS doc:
  • Plug and switched socket-outlet to BS 1363-1, BS 1363-2
  • Plug and socket-outlet to BS 5733
  • Switched fused connection unit to BS 1363-4
  • Cooker control unit switch to BS 4177
Doing it the way you've highlighted achieves the outcome but in the ugliest way IMO.
 
It isn't "THE" right way - there are at least 4 referenced in the BS doc:
  • Plug and switched socket-outlet to BS 1363-1, BS 1363-2
  • Plug and socket-outlet to BS 5733
  • Switched fused connection unit to BS 1363-4
  • Cooker control unit switch to BS 4177
Doing it the way you've highlighted achieves the outcome but in the ugliest way IMO.

The way i've stated with a switch panel or a switched fused spur are two of the best ways which is why developers often do it that way. A standard socket behind the appliance I also said was acceptable but it's not ideal because the fuse is still in the appliance's plug doing it that way.

Fitting the socket inside a cupboard is likely also going to fall into the trap of not following the rules in terms of the cable following an acceptable route inside required zones as I doubt that it is directly below another outlet that is above the counter or that the cable is clipped securely around the perimeter of the wall within zone to get to where it's connected into the circuit.
 
The way i've stated with a switch panel or a switched fused spur are two of the best ways which is why developers often do it that way. A standard socket behind the appliance I also said was acceptable but it's not ideal because the fuse is still in the appliance's plug doing it that way.

Fitting the socket inside a cupboard is likely also going to fall into the trap of not following the rules in terms of the cable following an acceptable route inside required zones as I doubt that it is directly below another outlet that is above the counter or that the cable is clipped securely around the perimeter of the wall within zone to get to where it's connected into the circuit.
For sure. I ran my switched fuse spur into the utility cupboard though so they're all nice and accessible but also together and hidden away.

To melt SkodaMart's mind I actually mounted them to a board attached to the wall and cut a recess in the cabinet, as some kind of epic hybrid system.

To temper my perfect install I electrical taped all connections because I'm a dum dum non-electrician. /s
 
For sure. I ran my switched fuse spur into the utility cupboard though so they're all nice and accessible but also together and hidden away.

To melt SkodaMart's mind I actually mounted them to a board attached to the wall and cut a recess in the cabinet, as some kind of epic hybrid system.

To temper my perfect install I electrical taped all connections because I'm a dum dum non-electrician. /s

It's just easier when each switch is above it's corresponding appliance so you can see which ones have been left on. Even better is having the switched panel with them all on as it's just neater.
 
Seems a bit of an ugly overkill solution. How often are you needing to isolate your kitchen utilities?

Surely, as long as it's accessible when you need to do something with it - that's all you need.

I'd rather have all those things hidden from everyday view.
 
Seems a bit of an ugly overkill solution. How often are you needing to isolate your kitchen utilities?

Surely, as long as it's accessible when you need to do something with it - that's all you need.

I'd rather have all those things hidden from everyday view.

It's not ugly when you have a proper switch plate with them all on one panel. Unless you can isolate the socket properly with the switch plate or the fused switched spur then you're relying on the appliance manufacturer to actually have implemented a proper 'off' switch on the appliance where it isn't still drawing electricity.
 
You’re not a electrician are you?

More worryingly, are you?

It's just easier when each switch is above it's corresponding appliance so you can see which ones have been left on. Even better is having the switched panel with them all on as it's just neater.

This is exactly how mine are. Switch above the worktop isolates the socket in the cupboard below, which is then connected to dishwasher, fridge/freezer, and washing machine. Which i'm betting is exactly how Peerzy's is set up.
 
My sockets are behind the appliance with the fused spur switch mounted to the back of the cupboard next to it, which is part of the building fabric and not furniture I understand
 
More worryingly, are you?.

Smith & Nephew, Hull
Astra Zenica, Liverpool extension
Terumo Aortic, Glasgow extension
National Testing facility, Didcot
New operating theatre, Nuneaton, George Elliot Hospital. IPS & UPS supplies.
Google Data centre Holland.
Numerous supervisor roles of domestic contracts, including Trafford Borough Housing Manchester Working, and Rochdale Borough Council.
Not only was I involved with installation I also did the testing and NICEIC certification.
Oh did I mention that I also worked as an NICEIC qualified supervisor?
 
Legitimate question - why is it considered good practice to mount the sockets on the wall and not inside the kitchen cabinets? I'm not questioning whether or not it's a regulation, just wondering why.

For me, your general, unqualified person, I can see that it's not a smart idea to mount a socket near water or where water could leak. Things become brittle and loose with age, so what's stopping a pipe fracturing or coming loose and dripping into a washing machine or dishwasher socket below it? That seems crazy to me and I'd want a waterproof socket installing beneath any waste or water pipes to stop this very thing from potentially occurring.
 
Smith & Nephew, Hull
Astra Zenica, Liverpool extension
Terumo Aortic, Glasgow extension
National Testing facility, Didcot
New operating theatre, Nuneaton, George Elliot Hospital. IPS & UPS supplies.
Google Data centre Holland.
Numerous supervisor roles of domestic contracts, including Trafford Borough Housing Manchester Working, and Rochdale Borough Council.
Not only was I involved with installation I also did the testing and NICEIC certification.
Oh did I mention that I also worked as an NICEIC qualified supervisor?

And yet you still can't seem to get the basics right.
 
Legitimate question - why is it considered good practice to mount the sockets on the wall and not inside the kitchen cabinets?

It isnt considered 'bad practice' to mount them in cabinets and it is done routinely. I'd just suggest discounting what this guy says tbh.
 
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