Possible Faulty switch

I'd worry about it passing (with no issues) afterwards (or later on at least). Let's first eliminate everything we can do first, you did great already with everything else, but without elimating the wall plate connection, you can swap everything and it'll be the same result, especially if it is the origin of the fault. So, keep an eye on that connection, see if it is the culprit. Let us know how it goes.
THanks buddy, i will keep you posted.
 
That won't make any difference, cat5e happily do 10 Gbps over the length of cable typically in house runs.

Buy yourself a krone tool and a cheap cable tester if necessary, and look at the termination behind the faceplates on the wall, two screws pops the cover off and it's fairly straight forward to re-terminate if required.
I get that, but in case they were the cause of drop outs, i wasn't going to replace Cat6 with the same, i thought may as well upgrade because the cost difference is negligible.
 
HALLELUJAH!! I've fixed it!! Soooo to follow on from previous.....the Zyxel 8 x 2.5gb port switch started dropping out within 45min -90mins of connecting, Same with the TP-LINK, The QNAP 2x 10gb and 4 x 2.5gb port switch had the LEAST drop outs, it would drop out 4x roughly in a 24hr period. Now i had tried this PCI Nic.. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B08V1HG47H/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 But not with every switch....wish i had....but hey ho, it got returned after dropping out on the original BrosTrend switch. NOW please remember throughout all of this .....there are 2 PCs connected to every switch....mine AND my brothers....HE HAs an Asus Z690 mobo with 2.5gb LAN port....he has NOT HAD ANY drop outs on any switch, switch/router combo, cables etc.. throughout this whole swapping and testing process, every time ive made a change on mine ive tested it on his and he just hasnt had any drop outs either way! Also, like anyone else i've been googling oogling my brain out....saw a brief thread somewhere where someone purchased a 10gbps PCI-e nic specifically a NICGIGA branded one to solve their drop outs on a 1gb LAN port, can't remember which motherboard, anyhoooo....back to amazon we go....NICGIGA 10gb pci nic comes from US so will take 2 weeks to deliver....so i order that but the NICGIGA 2.5gb nic is available for next day delivery.....so i thought....lets give it a go just for the heck of it, at this point i'll try anything! That turned up on Tues/Wed. Connected it up today ran pings for 5hrs....NO DROP OUTS!!

ONce again...just to rewind a little bit....My original Cat6 cable was 20m or so....only needed 10 but kept the excess rolled up under the desk for eventualities like these! And it came in handy, we plugged my brothers PC into my wall socket (hes only in the room next door)....NO DROP OUTS!! Also, i had my doubts about the cabling in the walls being an issue, it was all done when we had the house refurbished in 2019, all off the same reel, if i had an issue it was likely he would have had an issue. So i then ran the cable from my PC straight to the switch and this is when my drop outs would stop (in 2.5gb full duplex mode). However, if connected to my own wall jack/RJ45 port i could stop drop outs by running in 1gb full duplex.

So it was handy having a 2nd PC that is soooo reliable to test different components/combos etc. throughout this whole process. IN THE END...........THE NICGIGA 2.5gb PCI-E NIC has resolved the issue! I will keep testing....and then when the 10gb one turns up, will switch to that and test....but its looking like the 10gb one will be going back as it is £100 vs the 2.5gb £21, however i'm tempted as the QNAP switch has 10gb ports and i could make use of it although i most definitely dont need 10gb LOL https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0BFPWSMV2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B09HGRK5XB?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details (THE LIFE SAVER!)


Sorry forgot to mention i am currently back on the EE SMART HUB PLUS router. The TP LINK ARcHER is still on back order and will be delivered by the 20th or so.....so im prayign everything still works once that arrives and is all set up and connected! Of course i will keep you all posted on my findings! I've never had a connectivity issue like this in my life, this is like my 8th PC build in my life, never experienced anything like it!
 
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I can't see any mention of a test with the suspect PC connected to the wall port in the other room, so my suspicion is that the structured cabling is faulty but the tolerance of the new NIC is masking it and holding the link up.

Structured cabling that is installed and tested with a little continuity tester might work fine, but if it hasn't been verified with proper testers then it's not to any sort of category cabling standard, it's just a 4-pair cable in a wall.
That is something i did not do because im not moving a full size XL case and my dual 49" curved monitors...too much hassle. But as for the cable in the walls i supplied a 100m reel of Cat6 so its definitely ethernet/network cabling. But how is it that my brothers PC doesnt have any drop outs when he is connected to my wall port, and he runs at 2.5gb full duplex
 
It was the NIC on the motherboard at fault then?

By the way, remove those Amazon links, I'm fairly certain OcUK sell NICs of some variety and competitor links are not allowed.
Well its hard to say because the port does work and doesnt drop out at 1gb full duplex when connected to my wall port but also doesnt drop out at 2.5gb when connected directly to the switch.
And i swapped out my MSI MAG Tomahawk Z690 for an MSI MAG Tomahawk Z790 to see if it was a faulty Lan/mobo and still had drop outs
 
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Why would you have to move monitors to plug a PC into a port in another room? Also you've already plugged your brothers PC into your wall port so you have a cable long enough to do that distance, just use that long cable to plug your PC into your brothers wall port. I swear you're making this far more complicated than it deserves.
The switch is in my brothers room so he is directly into the switch. But there is a wall port that feeds the switch, which is the switch 'input'. i suppose i could, but because i went directly into the switch i thought there was no point.

The wall port in my brothers room is what comes up from the router downstairs, and is currently feeding from a 1gb LAN port on the router, so most likely it will work. ive just plugged into it, and this edit is being sent from the wall port in my brothers room, as suggested. BUt im convinced it will be fine as it is a 1gb connection, im connected via my mobo LAN port, will report back later.
 
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Im going to attempt to show the layout in pics and words LOL Im no artist or network architect by any means LOL here we go (EXCUSE THE MESS)
The Layout
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Ground floor
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2nd floor rooms
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Brothers PC + Switch + Wall Port
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Wall port in my room
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Switch + Wall Port + AP all in Bros room
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The thought process behind the 'network layout' was to have 1 LAN port off the router feed 1 floor of the house with a switch on every floor to feed all the APs and sockets. So 1 cable from 1 port goes to 1 floor which then feeds a switch, and that switch then feeds all the ports on that floor (one in every room and on landings). That was the thinking at the time, whether it was a good idea or not, i still dont know! LOL
And the thinking behind that was to spread the 'load' across the ports rather than having 1 port getting absolutely hammered....again not super knowledgable on the inner workings of routers/switches but was i along the right lines? Would it have been better to have just 1 switch coming off 1 router port which then fed the whole house?
 
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These are contradictory, sorry I'm out of this thread. It's impossible to try and troubleshoot a moving target.
Ive put pictures to try and help it make sense.

This is where the 'electrician' slightly messed up.....the other end of my wall port is the gray cable coming out from under the faceplate in my brothers room

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/200451348@N03" title=""><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53651404480_12eaac9b1d_c.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt=""/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>


IMGUR IS NOT WORKING...uuuggghh!!
 
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Yup.

This screams of electrician said "I've not done infrastructure before, I'll give it a go"

Should be 24 port patch panel in a central location, with one or two ports being ran from the fibre/BT/virgin point of entry to that panel.
YOU WERE ALL RIGHT!!!! DONT LET AN ELECTRICIAN DO YOUR NETWORK CABLING............ISSUE RESOLVED!!! So i got Tom the Network Engineer from 'Plugged In Comms' to pop over. Although his tester kit did not find any faults and he was about to leave saying, sorry i can't help you mate.....his hand just nudged the cable and he saw it cut off the connection....luckily he then unscrewed the faceplate to uncover the absolute disaster behind there! And Thank Goodnesss he did!!
Dmd4ynL.jpeg
 
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AFTER...........
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The electrician had used this type of face plate patch panel plug thingy (very technical lol).....But the network engineer used ones by EXCEL/EXEL
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Draw a network diagram of how everything is connected, including every cable.

This thread is such a headache with half and missing information.
I hope this makes sense now. Its quite simple, Router to switch, switch to pc, both rooms have face plates/wall ports but the other end to the router is an RJ45 plug that goes straight into the router.
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What about the other switch in the photo with your sky router..
Thats sky Q and the switch on the wall is a TP-Link 16 x 1Gb port switch, feeds of the main router. doesnt link to anything that is having drop outs. That serves all the downstairs AP's and 1 PC. No drop out issues there at all.
 
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Please draw a full diagram of everything.

Plug the PC directly into the Sky router and monitor. Then work your way back box by box to eliminate switches/cabling. Also drag all switches next to the Sky router and cable it as it would be via the hardwire, but instead use a known good cable.
They Sky router is for the Sky Q boxes, my internet is with EE, The EE SMART HUB PLUS is the FTTP router. I dont see the point in doing what you are saying when i plug directly into the switch in the diagram i get no drop outs. but i am now also only get 1-3 drop outs a day since the terminations were fixed/renewed/repaired whatever you want to call it; at 2.5gbps. Surely the fact that the switch has never dropped out means, no issue with the cabling from the switch to the router?
 
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Your first (very bad) diag had another floor, there were access points, additional switches and no mention of structured wiring etc. Without the full picture people are just guessing and the goal posts keep moving and yes a faulty piece of equipment e.g. an access point can cause drop outs on other parts of the network.

“when i plug directly into the switch in the diagram i get no drop outs”

If I take this at face value there are four remaining variables:

1. The faceplate in your room.
2. The cable run between the faceplate in your room and the faceplate in your brothers room.

3. The patch cables between the faceplates and your PC / the switch.

4. The port you are connecting to on the switch in your brothers room.



1&2 – Every socket and RJ45 plug the “electrician” terminated needs to be re-terminated by someone that is competent. Its called twisted pair for a reason only the very end of the cable is supposed to be untwisted when you terminate the cable. Multiple people in this thread have told you the wiring is bad.

If you’re lucky there will be enough slack in the cable to do this after cutting the end off it also assumes the cable run hasn’t been damaged somewhere; otherwise you will need to run new cables at which point I suggest you run 3 new Cat 6 or 6a cables from your floor to the ground floor.


3 – In some pics you show a flat cable from your PC but in the ones where you bypass the structured cabling and cable direct to the switch you use a round cable. Perfectly understandable if the flat cable isn’t long enough or is routed under carpets etc. But its another variable and the flat cable could be bad even if it worked at 1 Gbps.

4 – When using the structured cabling the downstairs uplink and your PC are using the 10Gb ports on the switch and you are probably using the 2.5 Gb ports when testing with a direct cable. Yes the 10 Gb ports should auto negotiate and run at 2.5 but its another variable, nothing you have runs at 10Gb so just use the 2.5Gb ports.






You have Cat 5E cables in your wall the spec says they will run at 1Gbps at up to 100 meters, Cat 6 10Gbps at 33-55 meters, Cat 6A 10Gbps up to 100 meters.

The newer 2.5Gbps standard is designed to run on older cabling that can’t run at the full 10Gbps without having to rewire entire buildings so if your Cat 5e cabling had been installed correctly it would have “probably” worked. There are even people running 10Gbps on short runs of Cat5E (out of spec) but your wiring is some of the skankiest **** I’ve ever seen.



If you don’t want to pay someone £400+ a day to re-terminate and possibly run new cables then drill a hole in the wall between your rooms and poke the cable you are using for testing through the wall and plug it straight in to the switch (same as you are doing now but with the benefit of being able to close your doors).



- Regards
A former IT Operations Manager that would sometimes install the odd network socket but usually sub contracted the work because its too much hassle and I had far more important things to do.

Over the years I’ve had a port on one of the 14 Cisco SG200 switches I was managing die for no reason after being in place for years. I’ve had a squirrel eat through a fibre cable linking two buildings after the site manger blocked a hole trapping it. I have had a PC that wouldn’t logon to the domain because someone installed iTunes on it and Bonjour was spamming the network.

And I’ve had to deal with incompetent CCTV installers that were given carte Blanche to do as they please; they caused IP conflicts with the PC’s by setting static IP addresses on the cams and also connected CCTV cams directly to the back of existing network sockets rather than running new cables to the comms cab. Something would break every time they were on site but they were the council approved CCTV installers that the Business Manager insisted on using.


Electricians and CCTV installers that touch networks need their hands chopping off.
Thank you so much for this in-depth explanation, i really appreciate it. I have a few new routers turning up today, im going to set them up and then get back to you.
 
So you're not doing what people have suggested, and are going to run new routers on your existing cabling that might be faulty?
I maybe should have said this sooner, i cannot afford to have the structured cabling re-done. There are meters upon meters, im not having all the carpets ripped up and floor boards or even if its just carpets, etc. i'll happily have everything re-terminated, but thats all. We went thru 24months of absolute HELL with the builders and i can't bare the thought of ripping stuff up again. so unfortunately that is out of the question.
Also, if you check back in my previous posts, i was getting a new router regardless, because the Smart Hub plus only has 1gb LAN ports. I've settled on the QNAP Qhora-322; which arrived today and i have set up and its running lovely, for now!
 
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Sorry OP its hard to keep track over 4 pages.

“ASUS GT-AX11000 Pro router, which has 10gbp LAN port”
So the 10Gb port was connected to the switch in your brothers room via cat 5e structured cables?

Cat 5e isn’t rated for 10Gbps it might work if you are lucky and the cabling is good but your electrician doesn’t know how to terminate cables correctly.


So you sent the ASUS back and have a Qnap router now?
“The QHora-322 has three 10GbE ports and six 2.5GbE ports for flexible WAN/LAN deployment”



Using the 2.5Gbps ports on the new switch would have dropped the uplink speed between the Asus router and the switch to a more realistic speed for Cat 5e.


The Qnap router might play better with the Qnap switch but it doesn’t change the fact that Cat 5e isn’t rated for 10Gbps. If you have any more problems then only use the 2.5Gbps ports over the structured cabling; you can use a 10 Gbps port if you get a NAS and its sitting next to the router.
I would still get someone to re-terminate the connections the electrician made and that flat network cable could still be bad. There isn’t anything more we can do to help if you are running 10Gbps over Cat 5e and get drop outs.
So upon further inspection...the structured cabling is Cat6 other than the wire from my room to my brothers room. thats the only cat5e. Since both ends were correctly terminated by a network engineer with new wall ports, i have stable 2.5gbe connection. But i have a 10gb pci-e NIC which goes upto 10gbps, again i dont need that speed, was just borrowed for testing purposes. it is multi-gig so can connect at 10gb, 5gb, 2.5gb, 1gb etc etc.. its stable at 2.5gb as is the motherboard 2.5gb LAN port. so we have solved the issue for the most part. Thanks everyone for their help.
The way i know the cable is Cat6 is by the light grey printed text on the cable, it clearly says cat 6 on the cable running from upstairs down to the router, and the cable next to it in the now "dual wall port face plate" says cat5e printed on the cable.

In one of my posts i definitely mentioned running a cable from my PC directly to the switch in my brothers room and i got no drop outs, I'm currently replying to this post from that very same cable directly into the 10gb port on the QNAP switch and no drop outs for the passed 2hrs. Maybe the cat5e can't handle it....but as mentioned it is at least happy at 2.5gb and that is all i needed.

MANY MANY THANKS TO EVERYONE WHO CHIMED INTO THIS THREAD! Im sorry it was such a nightmare, but i was hoping from the pictures and using the term 'wall port' ppl would understand that there was structured cabling involved from the get go. Anyways, we got there in the end. The cat6 cable from the router downstairs to the switch upstairs is also plugged into 10gb ports on both ends and not having any drop outs.
 
"Since both ends were correctly terminated by a network engineer with new wall ports" now its been re-terminated it will probably be fine to use the 10Gb nic over the short 5e link between your rooms if you even get a NAS. Glad its sorted OP.
You are a great asset to this forum! Hope you stick around. Unfortunately this is the new issue...since the network engineer correctly terminated and used Brand New 'Exel' branded wall ports, i can connect at 2.5gbe but anything above that still gives drop outs. i tested 5gbe and 10gbe. only when i set speed and duplex to 2.5gb or 1gbe it is stable. And the testing equipment the network engineer had showed the cable run as being 26meters, @Avalon ; so i'd assume the length cat5e should be ok (under 30m as Avalon mentioned), but hey ho, it is what it is, 2.5gbe is plenty for what i need. i may pluck up the courage and funds and just drill a hole thru the skirting in a corner behind the desk to make it almost invisible and have someone lay a cable from my PC along the edges of the carpet to my brothers room. I'll keep you all posted if i do that.....look out for thread resurrection circa 2025 or later LOL
 
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