Project: Bleedin' Li

Here's a 40 minute stress test (6 threads on IBT, HT enabled) at 100% fan. CPU still at stock, GPU at 800/1950 resulting in a maximum temperature of 52°C and 43°C respectively. Ambient's at ~22°C, max water temperature was 29°C.

Overclocking coming up!
 
Ok, here are my final overclocks with the bits in place:



The maximum GPU temperature of 53°C reported by Afterburner was before I shoved the fans to 100%, it remained at the 47°C level throughout the test.

Overall I'm quite pleased with the temperatures, though I think I might drop the i7 to 4GHz, as I know it can do that at a much lower voltage, which should result in lower temperatures. Of course the temps reported here are literally worst case scenario temperatures, as both the CPU and GPU are at 100%. In games the temps are much lower on the CPU.

I think, in summary that it's entirely possible to run a very capable rig on a single 240 radiator, with the following caveats:
  • The radiator must absolutely be matched to the fans (and vice versa) very carefully. You need to squeeze all the performance possible from the radiator, so this choice is crucial.
  • Equally, it's unlikely you'll be able to run a silent computer with such a set-up, so bear that in mind. While it's still subjectively quieter than a stock GPU cooler at full load, it's still not quiet per se. This isn't an issue for me as I wear headphones when I game and can't hear the fans, but it would put many off.
  • 38mm fans have good and bad points. At full load, they are subjectively quieter than a 25mm fan pushing a similar amount of air, but at idle they produce an annoying motor noise similar to a pump that hasn't been fully bled of air. I'm already thinking about changing them, as they're really quite annoying.
  • You'll need good pumping power, as a set-up like this thrives with higher flow rates. An 18W DDC would be preferable even with a simple loop like this to a 10W DDC or below.

As always, the EK water blocks are impeccably well made, and perform admirably well. They were chosen as whilst they are not the best performers, both blocks have low flow restriction, which is vitally important.

I'm not particularly happy with the XSPC reservoir. As expected, a Lian Li plus a reservoir/pump that's not particularly well damped results in a vibrating noise, which is annoying. In hindsight, I'd have saved some money and bought a DDC 18W, then put it on my fan controller, as the D5 doesn't seem to scale well when put on the fan controller, and it doesn't have a signal wire, so I can't see what speed it does.

So, where this will go next? I may just change the reservoir and pump top to a tube style reservoir or similar, and an EK D5 top. This will also free up a couple of drive bays, which I could use for the SSD and HDD. I might also experiment with some high-rpm 25mm fans in place of the Ultra Kazes and see how they affect noise and temperature. I have two more Sharkoon 2000rpm fans (like the one in the back of the case) to try, and I might see what else there is on the market and give them a go.

Of course I could also try different radiators, maybe a Coolgate or TA120.2 with the high RPM fans, to see whether the loop can perform well even fairly quietly. Then there's the possibility of adding a radiator to the roof or rear 120mm fan for more power, though the looks would suffer.

Anyway, thanks for taking an interest in my project, I'll be sure to update when the next changes fall in...
 
If you're going to replace the drive bay res, it's possible to fit a 120mm rad in 4 x 5.25 drive bays with an adaptor - any 3 x 5.25 bay fan adaptor and just attach the rad to the fan. Extra cooling and spares you having to dremel a big hole out in the roof :).

It is something I'd thought of, but I'd probably prefer to use the space for HDDs.
 
I probably could, but whether it'd fit with 38mm fans with shrouds would be more the question!

It's perfectly capable as a loop, seeing sub 50°C GPU temps in games (where usage is 100% pretty much all the time, due to 2560x1600). CPU won't hit 65°C either, so I'm perfectly happy with the temperatures. I just need to filter the idle noise to a nice acceptable state. Much of it is the pump, rather annoyingly, as one of the major reasons for buying a D5 was it's comparative silence when compared with a DDC 18W.

I have some more stuff planned, including replacing the bay res and fitting an EK pump top, then moving the HDDs to the 5.25" bays.
 
Can the LTX block use either ports as linlet or out let? cos from what I have seen EK recommends the rearward port is it not?(at least in the EK Supreme HF)

They're different designs. The Supreme HF is micro-pin where the water is sprayed using into the middle then runs to the edge of the block and out the other port. The LTX has micro-fins and is symmetrical - IE: runs in one side, through the fins, and out the other, with no differences at either end.
 
Well, using this picture:
DSC_0138.JPG


the inlet is the one that goes to the centre, and so is the one that'll be at the rear of the case. You can't change it around either.
 
Back
Top Bottom