Soldato
- Joined
- 13 Mar 2006
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- 6,712
Looking good. Does the PSU cope okay with no fans running and just passive airflow?
Project: fanless
- Thread starter shadowscotland
- Start date
- Joined
- 31 May 2006
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- 7,564
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- West London
Psu never skips a beat - and more efficient that my enermax libery at ~150w which was no slacker in it's own time.
It has a molex fan connector for emergency air flow but when i did have a fan attached it never fired up even at it coolest setting (Mcubed have something simular but it's yet an other optional extra but can be used in any system)
Don't recomend fanless - passive psu and a case/rad fan or passive aircooled system with an active psu/extract fan are sweet spot for ultra quiet builds imho
It has a molex fan connector for emergency air flow but when i did have a fan attached it never fired up even at it coolest setting (Mcubed have something simular but it's yet an other optional extra but can be used in any system)
Don't recomend fanless - passive psu and a case/rad fan or passive aircooled system with an active psu/extract fan are sweet spot for ultra quiet builds imho
- Joined
- 31 May 2006
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- 7,564
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- West London
Firstly thanks to Mrdbristol for this purple rain build as it's given me the push to get mine moving again.
Too tired to start my new build thread but wanted to post up some images of what I've been up to.
Anyway as some of you will know I'm working on an all copper hybrid passive loop.
This is relatively straight forward internally - PA120.3/D5/EK150/Blocks (but with only a single fan)
Externally their will be a radiant cooling array attached to the internal loop via QC's
This is quite different to the convective active and passive rads most people use in PC cooling.
Innovatek do a radiant panel on their Konvekt-O-Matic Ultra Plus but I think they are the only ones.
My system will be based on heatprofile skirting rads - but the connectors needed a bit of work for compatibility.
The connectors are brass 'barbs' welded either end of a stainless steel concertina
Think of a plastic straw – the bendy type, only made out of metals.
Very cleaver design actually (for its intended use) but not what I needed
Middle section cut away (with hacksaw)
Well the cut end was rough as old boots to say the least, and I didn’t want any stainless steel
in my loop so the ends of the ‘barbs’ were lapped. Took about 15-20 minutes for each barb
with P80 glass paper and a few odd looks (did it while waiting for my trains to and from work today
)
How they looks when I got home
Was aiming for the DD perfect seal look.
But after a few attemps to get the tubing over inc hot water I add a beveled edge.
Lapped further with P900 wet and dry – just to make them look finished.
And here is some of the testing I’ve been doing with different copper wires.
With the Feser tubing attached to the barb.
Wanted something a little different, so started playing around with the idea of making my own coils...
The final design will be with Enamelled Copper Magnet Winding Wire so will not oxidise
Even though the matt look is growing on me.
Too tired to start my new build thread but wanted to post up some images of what I've been up to.
Anyway as some of you will know I'm working on an all copper hybrid passive loop.
This is relatively straight forward internally - PA120.3/D5/EK150/Blocks (but with only a single fan)
Externally their will be a radiant cooling array attached to the internal loop via QC's
This is quite different to the convective active and passive rads most people use in PC cooling.
Innovatek do a radiant panel on their Konvekt-O-Matic Ultra Plus but I think they are the only ones.
My system will be based on heatprofile skirting rads - but the connectors needed a bit of work for compatibility.
The connectors are brass 'barbs' welded either end of a stainless steel concertina
Think of a plastic straw – the bendy type, only made out of metals.
Very cleaver design actually (for its intended use) but not what I needed
Middle section cut away (with hacksaw)
Well the cut end was rough as old boots to say the least, and I didn’t want any stainless steel
in my loop so the ends of the ‘barbs’ were lapped. Took about 15-20 minutes for each barb
with P80 glass paper and a few odd looks (did it while waiting for my trains to and from work today
)
How they looks when I got home
Was aiming for the DD perfect seal look.
But after a few attemps to get the tubing over inc hot water I add a beveled edge.
Lapped further with P900 wet and dry – just to make them look finished.
And here is some of the testing I’ve been doing with different copper wires.
With the Feser tubing attached to the barb.
Wanted something a little different, so started playing around with the idea of making my own coils...
The final design will be with Enamelled Copper Magnet Winding Wire so will not oxidise
Even though the matt look is growing on me.
Last edited:
Associate
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- 9 Aug 2009
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- Internet
Very nice.
Cheers for the mention, i know how you feel..a 6 week plan has turned into 6 nearer months for me !!
Always one more thing to do.......then another.........
- Joined
- 31 May 2006
- Posts
- 7,564
- Location
- West London
Thanks for the comments guys.
Done a little more today with a 3870 that I've lost the stock cooler too.
But then why use a fan when you can use passive watercooling at 8x the price and 32db less
It on a 3870 GDDR4 512MB sapphire 'toxic' cards with the blue pcb.
And a nice matching blue EK block.
This will tie in with the dark green/blue highlights in the over all design.
Always remember to install spacers if you have long barb threads (like my EK ones).
Would have been a major flow restriction with the threaded end extending through the coolant void and nearly hitting the plexi top.
In the first image you can just about see the the copper thread is only 1.5-2mm thick.
Not an issue with the plexi - but previous own has overtighten it and formed some micro cracks (seen on RHS as foggy area)
I got this EOL thermalright HR-11 many moons ago - make an excelent backplate for the EK block.
unfortunatly it was only able to be in this orintation due to the barbs.
Was an MM buy without fixing hardware (or I've lost it) - but thankfully EK used M3 threads in the full cover block.
So i stole four screws from a Asus 3a mosfet block and problem solved
And as a bonus the board is much straighter now - the stock M3's really deformed the card
Done a little more today with a 3870 that I've lost the stock cooler too.
But then why use a fan when you can use passive watercooling at 8x the price and 32db less
It on a 3870 GDDR4 512MB sapphire 'toxic' cards with the blue pcb.
And a nice matching blue EK block.
This will tie in with the dark green/blue highlights in the over all design.
Always remember to install spacers if you have long barb threads (like my EK ones).
Would have been a major flow restriction with the threaded end extending through the coolant void and nearly hitting the plexi top.
In the first image you can just about see the the copper thread is only 1.5-2mm thick.
Not an issue with the plexi - but previous own has overtighten it and formed some micro cracks (seen on RHS as foggy area)
I got this EOL thermalright HR-11 many moons ago - make an excelent backplate for the EK block.
unfortunatly it was only able to be in this orintation due to the barbs.
Was an MM buy without fixing hardware (or I've lost it) - but thankfully EK used M3 threads in the full cover block.
So i stole four screws from a Asus 3a mosfet block and problem solved
And as a bonus the board is much straighter now - the stock M3's really deformed the card
Last edited:
Associate
- Joined
- 27 Apr 2008
- Posts
- 111
Lookin great, gona keep an eye on this one!