Project: fanless

@gt - NB will be watercooled (EK) but that a very nice cooler.

SB will have either the Enzotech CNB-R1 revA (so far from low profile) or something simular to the mCubed borgFX.

I'm working on using the enzotech at the minute as the SB is not surposed to get very hot, and I like the copper and black look :D
Sounds good!

Sorry i wasn't too clear about the Noctua - i did mean for the SB rather than NB. I was only using my NB as an example since it cooled so well. :)

Good luck with it though - really looking forward to more pics. :D

gt
 
Still using my Passive watercooling but may drop the reserator if I can source some news rads without it costing me the earth... AND meeting the wife’s approval....

Think you are wasting your time looking for another answer. The Zalman looks lovely, which is half its appeal. For someone with a stainless steel chromed car radiator and intercooler fetish, but no longer into the car scene, you have to get your kickes elsewhere when you can.

It can just manage over a 200W dissipation before hitting 60°. So whilst it wont manage a 12mb cache quad + 280 gfx, it will manage a midling overclock on a 95W quad plus 4850/9800+.

Downside is, its not 100% quiet itself. However I could only hear it in the middle of the night when I was running fanless myslef. I decided to stop running fanless with the new system, though. Just not a good idea with decent hard drives you care about, and my 4850's mosfets just put out too much heat for a fanless case.
 
The GUJ enclosure is definitely not cheap, but I've put a raptor in one as well and I can't hear it. Amazing build quality on it, I actually used it as a structural member of an nxzt case for a while.

Fanless is hard. I managed everything except PSU, what're you doing for that component? The fanless ones I found all insisted on very good airflow, which is tricky with no fans elsewhere
 
Added a SPEC (to answer half the questions) and a Features list.

@JonJ678 - Fanless is not recomended for 99% of quiet pc builder. I think the Yesico and Mcubed psu's are the only ones that your warrent isn't void if you use it in a fanless system :( not that they can check :)
A single fan system is the way to go for a ultra quiet rig, but I've done that log already :D
 
Doh! didn't plan anyway near enough spaces up top - Will just keep them of the final stuff and add to the thread as it goes. That way new readers get an overview, followed but the detail and subscriber just read the end.

Anyway had some noisey time today, with just me in the house so thought I'd chop up some metal. Now I've not done any visiable metal work since school - and now I know why many of the good folks here send there stuff off to me lazer cut (better edge, quicker, less hassle, and cheaper if you don't already have the metal working tools.)

Well Armed with my drill and drellel cutting disks I set about cutting four straight lines to form a rectangle. Not an easy task but I tell you all what I've learned.

1) don't bother unless your a metal worker with a workshop.
2) don't use the disk as a guide to cutting a straight line (you use them up really fast)
3) let the the disk do the cuting - they brake easily if twisted or forced
4) take your time - took me an hour inc redoing some areas that were 2-3mm of my guide line
5) expect to repaint any areas that you drellel - unless your a pro

Anyway - Here's the silverstone SP05 with the window removed - an easy job with a set of small allen keys
four1.jpg


Next up is the naff T2 side panel - with it's punched metal grill.
four2.jpg


Window and panel cut down - the window I cut with a hack saw bladed stab saw - and even being really carefull I wasn't carefull enough - you'll see the crack later :(
four3.jpg


Close up - still need so serious fileing to give it a straight line (a curved window may have been easier)
four4.jpg


Just the two elements together - far from the finished artical
four5.jpg


I'll not be doing visiable metal work again - just don't have the tools to do it justice in a reasonable timescale. Anyway with a week of fileing and sanding ahead of me, at least I've got something (relatively quiet) I can be doing in the evenings
 
Well after a good sand with the 60 / 150 / 600 and a buff with a non-stick scourer and some furnature polish my window
now has a shiney beveled edge (to match the other three machine cut ones)
Feeling much better away todays works :)
Even managed to tidy up the metal panel - need to use a file to get the lines parallel with the sides (or might just cheat and use edge trim....)

four6.jpg

Shiney - can you guess the hand made bevel
 
Personal the bungee/elastic cradle works best at it stops all the vibrational noise and costs next to nothing. It's only really Raptors that need the extra work to keep the noise down. Mine is a 36gb which I beleive is quieter than the others during seak but slight louder at idle.

Having said that the GUP has significanly reduced the seak noise - the reason I got it :).
Should be even better when suspended as there is still some vibration.
Did mound the Raptor in the silentmaxx for a few mins - it's did work but just couldn't match the GUP so swapped it back. Don't have any dB testing equipment so can't give real values.

Edit:
Can only say that the GUP reduced both the volume and the pitch of the seak noise. The 'clicks' are more muted best way to explain is with an example.

Hold a pencil at one end, and tap the other end on the edge of a table - you get a 'sharp' tap noise.
Now holding the pencil as before tap the edge of the table with middle of the pencil - this time it's a 'softer' thud noise.

It's the same with the GUP, the raptors click is replaced with a tock. (hope that makes sence)

Will be doing some more on the panel tonight when the little man is asleep, and the wife is out with friends
 
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I can't work out what that copper is for. Isn't it surrounded by foam for noise damping?

The copper cradle (top) and plate (bottom) are connected to the outside by means of two reasonably thick heat transfer pads (~5mm)

@Grimgoth - yes the case will take an mATX mobo - but I've always owned ATX boards so was looking for a small case that would fit a full sized mobo and psu's. If I owned a mATX board I've have used a different case. Having said that this case would make a good active watercooling mATX build ideal for LAN parties, using the case floor to mount the Rad/pump
 
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Sorry dude but that window looks a total hash. I would be throwing it away and getting it done properly. It only cost £20 to be done on a CNC machine and its a perfect cut.
 
Thanks to my son being very ill all weekend I've had no progress and no sleep this weekend.
But there is some progress on parts:
After a MM request - I'm now in possession of 3 additional heatpipes (more to follow)
with a X-Fi Extreme music and two sets of Koolance VL4’s on route.

The Koolance quick connectors are the new ‘Extreme Flow’ versions seen below.
The second image is the older High flow ones for a comparison. The Zalman quick connectors
that come with the Res2 have been replaced with plastic barbs as they where the
most restrictive part of the loop. But the ability to de-gas the RES and split the loop when
wall mounted is a must. Money well spent imho but I’ll take some glossy shots when they arrive.
As with the GUP I’ve been meaning to get these for a while now, as the CPC and Eheim QC’s
no longer have the flow advantage and don’t look anyway near as nice :)
vl4-f13-19s_p0.jpg

vl3-f13-19s_p0.jpg
 
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