Project Ignorant Bliss
- Thread starter Zeeflyboy
- Start date
Well we don't know that it actually even works yet! It's not guaranteed lol.
Thanks guys!
So quick question - is it worth popping two exhaust fans running at low speed in the top (as per some of the earlier pics) or do you think there will be enough airflow through the case without? The dual 140's are a little tight, but dual 120's would fit fine...
Cheers OJ - I'll bear that in mind.
Thanks guys!
So quick question - is it worth popping two exhaust fans running at low speed in the top (as per some of the earlier pics) or do you think there will be enough airflow through the case without? The dual 140's are a little tight, but dual 120's would fit fine...
Cheers OJ - I'll bear that in mind.
Would definitely be worth chucking an exhaust fan or 2 up top as I've seen reviews of this case saying the top half of the case seems to trap warm air without it. As you say though, it would be best to have them on a very low speed so they help remove the warm air whilst also keeping a positive pressure inside the case.
Really impressive and super clean. When I attempt my first water cooled loop this is the type of finish I will be aspiring to. Well worth remembering the 3d printing option for any customer brackets etc. It really adds an extra level of professionalism to the finished article.
Ok I think I'll do that then. I would guess that it could really do with a blanking plate over the non-fan covered parts of the upper tray otherwise a lot of the air will probably just push back down rather than be forced out... Should be easy to whip something up on the CNC.
I just had a thought regarding that cable grommit at the bottom - I think that would look great with a custom grommet with holes for the wires like a cable comb (if you understand my non-sensical ramblings).
The only question - once I've designed it do I machine it from aluminium or print it in the same carbon grey as the other parts?
Orrrr... I could machine it from aluminium and then machine the central cable comb part from carbon fibre.... Which would look awesome by maybe out of place with the rest of the system?
Pete - thanks. If anyone is desperate for 3D printed parts but doesn't have easy access to a printer I can probably help out if time permits, don't mind doing stuff now and then
only problem is it is often tricky when you don't have the part/case at hand for the design, and it occasionally takes a couple of iterations to get things absolutely spot on.
I just had a thought regarding that cable grommit at the bottom - I think that would look great with a custom grommet with holes for the wires like a cable comb (if you understand my non-sensical ramblings).
The only question - once I've designed it do I machine it from aluminium or print it in the same carbon grey as the other parts?
Orrrr... I could machine it from aluminium and then machine the central cable comb part from carbon fibre.... Which would look awesome by maybe out of place with the rest of the system?
Pete - thanks. If anyone is desperate for 3D printed parts but doesn't have easy access to a printer I can probably help out if time permits, don't mind doing stuff now and then
only problem is it is often tricky when you don't have the part/case at hand for the design, and it occasionally takes a couple of iterations to get things absolutely spot on.
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Hey, that Carbonfil / carbon fibre stuff for 3d printer looks great. Never saw it before. Have been using aluminium. [EDIT] acutally the aluminium is one of the heaviest parts of my PC, other than the PSU with its steel case. Makes you wonder how much lighter it could be.
Associate
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What a man cave! That should have a build log of its own please
I love it, but it does destroy a standard brass nozzle in very short order - you won't even make it through a couple hundred grams before print quality noticeably goes down hill. If you are interested in this filament I can strongly recommend the special hardened steel nozzle sold by e3d specifically designed for this purpose. Well worth the investment.
It is amazingly light, which isn't really a priority for PCs I guess but I generally print this at 30-40% infill and it's as strong as you could wish. Given its 60-70% air at that setting you do end up with extremely high strength to weight ratios. I've been suitably impressed that I'm now using it for most of my actually meaningful prints. Overhang ability is great, it bridges well and doesn't warp at all in my experience (I print it with a 75 degree bed just for info).
The militant - wouldn't know where to post the build of the man cave! Not really PC related!
Soldato
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This system looks superb, always like black/white/grey builds but this takes it to a new level with the white radiators and cables with combs to add a new level of precission.
I was just wondering though, what are your thoughts on building in the Evolv and did it get a bit tight when securing fittings etc. Also is the tubing running completely straight from the CPU to radiator and GPU to reservoir or does it just look straight (As in paralell with the case structure) as if so I'm extremely impressed and jealous
I was just wondering though, what are your thoughts on building in the Evolv and did it get a bit tight when securing fittings etc. Also is the tubing running completely straight from the CPU to radiator and GPU to reservoir or does it just look straight (As in paralell with the case structure) as if so I'm extremely impressed and jealous
Cheers - yeah I liked the white radiators as soon as I saw them... I actually had to paint the XPSC one because the white it comes as is matt (almost like a primer actually) and didn't match the more satin finish of the alphacool. Got some decent satin white spray paint and problem solved!
On the first iteration I tried (before I added the 90 degree fittings on the CPU block), the tube couldn't get low enough to the board for a straight run to the rad at the front so I had to put a small kink to line things up. Wasn't very happy with that!
However, after I changed my plan and went with the 90 degree fittings, I just had to use a small G1/4 extender under the 90's on the CPU block and it then lined up very nicely height wise off the motherboard and the front rad (and conveniently, also with the outlet of the 140mm rad using the same size g1/4 extender). It looks pretty spot on regarding being parallel with the case, certainly as far as you can see it's a totally straight shot. Could be off by a mm or two perhaps but over that distance it's hard to tell.
Given this is my first build, I don't really have any frame of reference to compare the Evolv to anything else... so hard for me to say really! It is naturally going to be a bit tight compared to a full size tower case I suppose, but it is very well laid out in my humble and un-informed opinion. I didn't struggle with any of the fittings personally, but I guess if I had another larger rad up top it would have got a bit more claustrophobic.
On the first iteration I tried (before I added the 90 degree fittings on the CPU block), the tube couldn't get low enough to the board for a straight run to the rad at the front so I had to put a small kink to line things up. Wasn't very happy with that!
However, after I changed my plan and went with the 90 degree fittings, I just had to use a small G1/4 extender under the 90's on the CPU block and it then lined up very nicely height wise off the motherboard and the front rad (and conveniently, also with the outlet of the 140mm rad using the same size g1/4 extender). It looks pretty spot on regarding being parallel with the case, certainly as far as you can see it's a totally straight shot. Could be off by a mm or two perhaps but over that distance it's hard to tell.
Given this is my first build, I don't really have any frame of reference to compare the Evolv to anything else... so hard for me to say really! It is naturally going to be a bit tight compared to a full size tower case I suppose, but it is very well laid out in my humble and un-informed opinion. I didn't struggle with any of the fittings personally, but I guess if I had another larger rad up top it would have got a bit more claustrophobic.
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Soldato
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That's a pretty good design then with the fittings to get the tubing parallel. I can't believe this is your first build as it looks stunning, you must be a wizard or spend ages measuring and planning (Which you should
)Just lucky
So I just quickly made up this design to explain what I was talking about with the bulkhead grommet for the PCI-E cables.
This would replace the rubber cable grommet for a super clean look:
I'm just not sure what to make it out of - On the one hand it'd probably look quite nice and subtle if I print it out of the carbonfil (plus it's the easiest option), or alternatively I could mill it out of aluminium for a bling tastic time.
Decisions decisions....
So I just quickly made up this design to explain what I was talking about with the bulkhead grommet for the PCI-E cables.
This would replace the rubber cable grommet for a super clean look:
I'm just not sure what to make it out of - On the one hand it'd probably look quite nice and subtle if I print it out of the carbonfil (plus it's the easiest option), or alternatively I could mill it out of aluminium for a bling tastic time.
Decisions decisions....
Soldato
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I like the look of those grommet replacements and although I'm an advocate of saying "Don't take the easy route" I see little benefit to using Aluminium other than it being more "Shiny". However, personally I would want them to be subtle and let the cables do the talking so I'd go with carbonfil
Either way though I'm sure they'll look great
Either way though I'm sure they'll look great
Soldato
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Fantastic work mate.
It's a cracking job, whether it's a 1st, 2nd or 10th build
Add me to the list of people hugely jealous of the CNC and 3D printer
It's a cracking job, whether it's a 1st, 2nd or 10th build
Add me to the list of people hugely jealous of the CNC and 3D printer
Cheers
Done deal then - got the part printing out now. I'm also making some small spacers for the fans at the front which will then be combined with some foam gaskets.... I figure I'm not exactly massively over-radded (I was going on the rule of thumb that I saw thrown around which said 120mm per block plus another 120 for headroom), so I want those radiators working as efficiently as possible. To that end the fan spacers will help to eliminate the dead spot under the fans, and the gaskets make sure none of that pesky air is leaking around the sides.
Probably won't make much difference but hey, why not try
Done deal then - got the part printing out now. I'm also making some small spacers for the fans at the front which will then be combined with some foam gaskets.... I figure I'm not exactly massively over-radded (I was going on the rule of thumb that I saw thrown around which said 120mm per block plus another 120 for headroom), so I want those radiators working as efficiently as possible. To that end the fan spacers will help to eliminate the dead spot under the fans, and the gaskets make sure none of that pesky air is leaking around the sides.
Probably won't make much difference but hey, why not try
@ Zeeflyboy
I am well impressed with your attention to detail...and the great use of skills you obviously possess
It is, no doubt, handy having those nice DIY tools to hand too... like the 3D printer and CNC. I doubt I am alone in being envious....but I also doubt I would utilise them so effectively if I did own them.
Congrats on some stunning workmanship and PC building.
I am well impressed with your attention to detail...and the great use of skills you obviously possess
It is, no doubt, handy having those nice DIY tools to hand too... like the 3D printer and CNC. I doubt I am alone in being envious....but I also doubt I would utilise them so effectively if I did own them.
Congrats on some stunning workmanship and PC building.
Hah thanks but I think you'd be surprised... I didn't know any of this stuff until I taught myself a couple of years ago. If you have the wherewithal to put together a PC, I think you can most likely figure out all this sort of stuff.
So done a bit more:
Printing out the Cable grommet and a 120mm fan spacer:
Finished parts:
Quick test fit (like a gloooooooove!)
And after a fair old bit of cable plugging/unplugging to get the thing fitted onto the cables, I'm pretty happy with it. Helps keep everything all nicely aligned.
And as for the fan spacer... here it is with foam gasket fitted:
Fitted to the top fan (you can also see where I put my loop temperature gauge in the outlet end of the rad)
And the important part I wanted to check - the filter still fits without fouling:
So now I just need to do another 2 fan spacers and order some more 35mm screws to fit them.
So done a bit more:
Printing out the Cable grommet and a 120mm fan spacer:
Finished parts:
Quick test fit (like a gloooooooove!)
And after a fair old bit of cable plugging/unplugging to get the thing fitted onto the cables, I'm pretty happy with it. Helps keep everything all nicely aligned.
And as for the fan spacer... here it is with foam gasket fitted:
Fitted to the top fan (you can also see where I put my loop temperature gauge in the outlet end of the rad)
And the important part I wanted to check - the filter still fits without fouling:
So now I just need to do another 2 fan spacers and order some more 35mm screws to fit them.
Soldato
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The cable routing looks stunning with the new grommet replacement, they look better fitted than I expected them to
Also, can you explain what the fan gaskets are for as I'm not sure if it's to do with the SP120s funny shape?
Great work though
Also, can you explain what the fan gaskets are for as I'm not sure if it's to do with the SP120s funny shape?
Great work though