[Project] Out of Reach

[shadowscotland]

Phase 3: S&A – Details cont.

Installing the PSU was another challenge as the mounting screws on the rear were not
very accessible. It would be possible to install the psu and then mount the case on the
wall BUT only with three fixing as the psu covers the forth.

Also due to the design of the case you couldn’t just rest the psu in its designed location.
This was due to the case edge (just visible in the bottom of the photo) being folder to accept
the cover.

To stop the psu being at an angle, I used a small piece of Styrofoam as a prop or spacer.
This was high enough to snugly wedge the psu under the cases recessed pci covers (left middle)
as the case wasn’t going to be moving anywhere I was happy to leave it wedged.

You may have noticed that the case doesn’t use the psu fan to cool the case. Which suits
my purposes now I’ve using chipset and gpu blocks but this case is really designed for the
use of fans. I also should point out that the fan exhausts towards the Res2 (deliberate
to increase air flow over fins) and bypassing the case internals reduces the exhaust air temp.

I would note that by rotating the case so the side vents are now top and bottom it improves
the cooling of this case significantly. I wouldn’t take much to setup a low velocity wind
tunnel, working with the physics of hot air rather that perpendicular to it.

Installed psu and Motherboard.

The screen and arm was one of the easier parts of the build but I’d recommend that anyone
buying one has rotation manipulation or wall brackets with slots not holes. With
the best will in the world I couldn’t get my two fixing holes perfect aligned in the soft concrete
block wall of my house. The holes were about 1-2 degrees from true and when installed
the screen is only just noticeable at an angle.
Sometimes
its worth paying double to get it perfect.

Almost true and level

Psu visible without Styrofoam prop in place

Side shot

As you can see I installed the arm and screen as one of my first jobs (drilled wall when
my son was at grandparents) but then removed it so I could work inside the case more
easily. It can be parked well out of the way (arm extended full to the left) but I didn’t want to
scratch or damage the screen during the build.

 

[shadowscotland]

Phase 3: S&A – Details cont.

Unlike most of the rest of the build I thought I’d do a bit of prep to the watercooling install.
Now most peoples watercooling set up use 10-18w pumps that have the oomph to push
the coolant round their loops. My quiet little pump is a mere 3w, and although more that
strong enough to move a filled loop – really struggles with a new install. Therefore I’ll be
priming the loop with the aid of gravity and installing the blocks / loop when filled. Firstly
due to the Res2 quick coupling splitting the loop is easy but slotting the blocks – especially
the swiftech into the case isn’t. So it’s out with the hacksaw again to join the two 80mm
fan outlets.

Cut and bend

I may remove the middle section entirely (and add a grill) or may just bend the aluminium
back when the loops installed I’ll decide later. Currently I can thread all three block and
the filled loop into the case without removing it from the wall. It’s a lot of hassle I know
and I did consider installing an extra Cmag pump into the loop to increase flow rates and
oomph. But when filled the three blocks has less impact on flow rate that the two original
Zalman ones so it’s seams pointless to add extra noise.

The tubing hasn’t faired very well in storage with major kinks in a few locations. So I’ll be
redoing the loop prior to installation.
I also had great fun trying to get the system working following a blown fuse on the kettle lead
to the psu. The extension lead was ok (power and surge protection lights on) and the screen’s
led was flashing away – didn’t think to swap the cables before borrowing a friend psu.
On installing second supply – still nothing so it was then that I tested the lead – and found
the dead 5amp fuse. System loading into windows fine – swapped to my enermax and all
was fine (and a great deal quieter)
I can’t recommend quality psu enough – my liberty will probable outlast me.

And with that the logs up to date so I’ve moved one of the update images to the end
to keep things tidy and add more when I start on the watercooling in earnest

Side profile – current view as you enter room.

 

[shadowscotland]

Great work. What are your plans for the monitor cables which little one may be able to grab on to?

The monitor cables are wraped round the arm and then ducted behind the DS rad. The power then drops down and the data up.

The screen is also at standing eye level so no parts are within reach (well for a few years anyway) as I've a draftman's swivel chair (seat position is about 900mm high) to use when the final part of the build in constructed. Looks a bit like this, just think of a office chair with a pneumatic cylinder twice the length.

The four cables handing down in the last shot (wireless mouse/keyboard sensor, cpu power, Res2 power and screen power) are all in the corner and will all be contained in mini trunking.

But now you've mentioned it I might use some dado trunking at the same level is the rad ...

The power leads aren't long enough to reach the floor and even if they were that still doesn't make it little finger proof
(he's old enought to know that he can't play with sockets - not that he's got access to any in our house)

Thanks Morte, you've got me thinking - Off to reserach silver dado, or even ... *sounds of gears turning*

 

[shadowscotland]

Phase 4: Desk.

I’ve a usable workstation
It’s not quite as I planned and it’s still a long way from being finished but I now have a permanent
area of little finger proof work space.

The hassle factor of converting a TV unit (in very first images) into a fold down desk were
at first straight forward – first three images and about 2h work. The mechanism of the leg and
retaining system are still not completely resolved (some 10h later)

Anyway on with the show.

Desk propped in upright position. (after wall fixing lower section - it actually stayed)

A desk. (legless)

All fixed and folded down.

Edit: first idea was for a fold out support (hinged to RSH of wall fix panel) this would fold
perpendicular to wall and then the desk would rest ontop. (forming corner of cube) But the
problem with this as that the front right corner of the desk would be very live (bouncey)
That said if I'd known the grief that a more stable, folding leg would cause I'd have gone with it.

All I wanted was a simple fold down leg. But I got side tracked with a trip to Ikea / my wife’s
aesthetic demands. Anyway the aluminum breakfast bar leg, was to short (800mm max) and
the variable alternative was chrome (not in keeping with bedroom but would do 950mm) In
the end a bracket-less shelve presented it’s self – right wood, right length, good depth (used
as width in my case)

But a thick hollow shelve has limited fixing potential – and my current solution means it will
not fold flat against the wall as yet. (End of bolts project under desk)

Workstation with ‘to-be removed’ stuff behind.

So as I come to the end of another eventful weekend I’m still along way from finished but
for the first time I’ve all the major elements in play and can work. I could
add more be this isn’t a furniture forum so I’ve kept it brief

 

[shadowscotland]

I did look at that option, but the 'shower rail' type polls, even with two of them would be
unstable if my son decided to swing/shake/run into them. (resulting in the deck smacking
him in the head as it folds shut so not really an option)

I really appreciate your comments and suggestions though - and you should see the precautions
I take when using power tools within the house. Talk about adding extra work for myself!
- but the alternative is not worth thinking about with a button loving 2 year old

To be honest, I knew that the build wouldn't go smoothly, but that's a good thing to share
sometimes. Most logs are started by people 100x more skilled that me with really high
end kit - and there're really inspiring (tiger, android, bioshock etc) but I hope that my up's
and downs also motivate the lesser skilled to try a simple bungee mod for example or even
fix that old shelf

 

[shadowscotland]

Quick update.

I've managed to get 8x countersunk, M6 60mm bolts so the desk will be sorted and fixed
in it's upright position tonight - photo's to follow

Oh the joy of having a proper hardware store near work. - with over 200 different
nuts/bolts/screws available individually or boxed per 50/100/200 and someone
that actually knows their stock available to ask!

 

[shadowscotland]

Absolutely fascinating build there, definitely one of the most innovative ideas in recent months.

Thanks schumi - very kind of you to say so.
as they say Necessity is the mother of all invention.

Edit:

Phase 4: Desk conc.

Here the underside of the desk. The oversized bolts were the best that homebase could
provide and I need to work at the weekend for a major Tuesday morning deadline so I left it
unfinished by usable.

That SOOOOOOOOO much better - hardware store to the rescue - they are still slightly
to big but I'll re-countersink the hinges with a larger drill bit some time soon (maybe)

With the bolts now coming from the hinge side - the bare ends needed a child friendly finish.
Again the hardware store had nuts aplenty inc these nice dome ended hex's

Here she is, folded flat agained the wall.
I got home to late to drill the wall full of holes for the fixing pegs (two maybe four of them)
but might have time for that tonight.

 

[shadowscotland]

hurry hurry

Hold your horses, stelly – good things come to thoses who wait

Have fun getting up to put discs in.

It’s actually quite easy – the case’s height was set out based on my wife’s arm reach.
No tip toes required

awesome tbh mate

Thanks.

I’ve added the images of last nights alterations with still a bit more to do. Them I’ll be installing
the water loop – can’t wait to get rid of that fan noise, and very temped to treat myself to one
of the GUP Japan Smart Drive for my raptor

 

[shadowscotland]

SPCR rates them very highly for cooling and quiet. And my silversone is somewhat limited with spare 5.75" drive bays for a normal bungee mods... problem is it would completely blow my budget.

I'll try the mod first (in a stack of 3x 3.5 bays) and if still too noisy, I'll get one. That way you guys get to see my 'curved stitching' appoach to suspension

 

[shadowscotland]

Looks like the room could do with a bit of a tidy though!

It’s taken far too long but each separate job wasn’t that hard really. Time consuming,
and at times frustrating but I’m not that skilled, just persistent. I’d say that if you can wire
a plug, you could do something similar. And yes the room needs a tidy

have not seen anything like this before, looks very good. Nice one

Neither had I – that’s one of the reasons for the log – and thanks for the comments
you two.

Phase 4.1: Desk lock.

Drill – plug – and screw in coat hook – job done.
It rotates 180 degrees from open / closed, and 5 min’s well spent

Locked

Phase 5: Water loop

Also been busy with the water cooling loop, as I’m trying out an idea.
Many folks use 7/16" Masterkleer over ½ inch barbs, so I thought I’d try my thin walled
3/8 over ½ barbs. Well it works (cup of hot water trick) will report on temps when I know

Very tight fit, no clips needed

I’ve also decided that I’ll not include the graphics card in the loop – may change my mind
when I’ve some temp data, but for now its just cpu and chipset.

It’s already filled with Feser 1, gravity doing most of the work, giving the blocks a good
shake to remove any small air bubbles. With the Zalman quick release couplings removed
this as actually very easy. I filled the tube fully and inserting the coupling (in ‘open’ position)
on the end. Bubble free and hopefully hassle free when I hook it up.

Filled loop awaiting install

Now the annoying bit.
Some of you may have noticed that there are two yellow strings across the Res2.
These are now anchored into the wall top and bottom, why you ask – well the sticky
side of industrial Velcro isn’t that good on cold gloss painted aluminum. Lets just say
I’m lucky that (1) no one was in the room, (2) I found it first, and (3) the screen was
parked below the Res2 – so that as it fell it flipped and landed on the corner of the bed.

2cm deep scar in solid wood bedframe

Permanent use of belt and braces for me from now on, thankfully the only visible damage
to the Res is one of the female coupling has been smashed (yet didn’t leak) and my
lovely wife just found the ‘save place’ I kept my spares.

Should have the loop in soon and finally some quiet

 

[shadowscotland]

Thanks guys and sorry for the lack of updates.

Was waiting two weeks for some bits to arrive only to have the wrong end plates included
Still not got them, but could modify what I’ve got so that not really a very good excuse.
It is a build log afterall so mod's are a must

The main problem been work (PC downtime is not a option recently) that and the build
up to my son second birthday has taken all my time - and he’ll always come first with
what little spare time I have.

But your comments are well timed
As I’ve the house to myself tonight.
I’ve already tested and installed my preferred graphic card – see below

Phase 5: Graphics - Passive or loop

Been thinking about this for some time and the two cards I currently have just didn’t fit the
bill any more.

My passive 7300LE is great – uses less power than a fan for 2d stuff and has next to no
effect on my CPU temp when in the loop (+2c) but it’s has no oomph in games and not
that great with video.

My 7800GT is also great – great power usage to performance ratio, and still below 60w
at load. It however adds 12 degree to my CPU temps if on the same loop at idle! It also
has 2x DVI ports and I’ve not enough room behind my case to use an adaptor.

So what to do – get another card (or two)
Was looking for a card somewhere between my current two, and selling the 7800 got me
a noisy 7600GS and a passive 8500GT. Both OC nicely if needed, both come in passive
flavours (always a good sign) and both use well under 50w at load.

Interestingly – the 3D mark scores where of only partial helpful (see below) but new tech
wins especially as it’s got a passive cooler fitted.

7300gs : 3Dmark03 - 2078 3Dmark05 - 1101
7600gs : 3Dmark03 – 8622 3Dmark05 – 3793
8500gt : 3Dmark03 – 8186 3Dmark05 – 4883

score above (I’ll update the actual ones later tonight)
edit: done

So I’ve some choices to make – leave as stock passive, upgrade to aftermarket passive
or add to loop…

I’ll let you know how I get on.

 

[shadowscotland]

Phase 5: Water loop

Before I go any further I’ll like to say silence is truly golden and thanks for all the comments,
it mostly due to them that I’m now back in the water cooling club

But back to the log…

Damage to the quick couplings

As I said earlier the res2 fell off the wall a few months back and left two holes in the bed frame,
well that’s wasn’t all Luckily Zalman included two spare female couplings in the kit, and
I’m blessed with a wife that can find things, after I put them somewhere safe.

Rear of mother board

A few quick squeezes with a pair of long nose pliers and the northbridge was off and tucked
away in my bit box. And a quick application with the two bottles ArtiClean remover and my
cpu and chipset were ready for their new blocks.

I was lucky enough to have a spare backplate – A Thermalright LGA775 RM that I used with
a XP120 a year or so ago. So with a spot of sticky tape (to stop the machine screws falling out)
and it was slotted in place.

Six machine screws standing proud (aka bolts)

I also installed the two plastic machine screws for he DD chipset block, these came with locking
nuts so no need for sticky So all was ready for the fiddly bit.

Loop hung in place.

To those with a Reservator you’ll know that de-bubbling your system with a 3w pump can be
some what time consuming and involves man handling your case and res. Well I don’t have
this option as mines now screwed to the wall so with my loop already filled and the rear fan
holes joined I inserted the loop and blocks into the case.

Blur is due to frustration at last two swifttech nuts.

Ok so I’m on a chair with a mother board balanced on my chest / the case edge. A small
spring/washer/nut assembly in left hand, and a screwdriver in my right pushing the machine
screw into the nut. A third hand would have been useful, but it’s not the first time I’ve installed
these blocks so 15 minutes and two dropped nuts later both blocks are installed. I’m ashamed
to say I used AS5, knowing full well that MX-2 is better but it’s all I had so that what I used.
I spread with it with a variation on the finger in a plastic bag trick, this time I used a corner
of bubble wrap. Don’t ask, but it worked really well, a ‘cushioned’ even pressure was easy
to exert and in a few seconds both surfaces on the mobo were thinly covered.

 

[shadowscotland]

Phase 5: Water loop cont

Loop installed

Yes I know the chipset block is round the wrong way, but that suited the imprinted bends that
the tubing had gained due to ‘storage’ for a few weeks. And in the end it helped move the single
air bubble out of the loop (thumb nail sized bubble due to attaching loop to Res btw) Unfortunately
life was inside my Res – should has given it a good flush at the same time I did my blocks
and tubing, but I didn’t due to time. So took a good few restarts to get the flow meter spinning –
off to buy / borrow some nuke.

The finished article – well not quite.

All needs a good tidy and I need to bring the last missing element home from work tomorrow.
SHOULD be sorted and finished over weekend. I’ll see what I can do, as it past time the glamour
shots were posted on the Gallery threads.

Edit: you might be able to guess what my next phase will be, buy the cable tidy suspended 4way,
more on this in the next update

After a quick zip round the bios, I re-set the 3.0ghz OC (9x333) I previously had with the
stock cooler. I’ve Had orthos running for 1h and 30mins and it at 53c, no errors and very quite

 

[shadowscotland]

Phase 6: Cable tidy

Well the anti plant life solution is in and circulating but the cable tidying device that I've been waiting for - arrived - and was then bined by my boss

I should have left better instructions when I left on time on Friday, and just a tad anoyed that no one in the office said it was mine and I needed it when the office spring clean happened.

Hey hoe - another one's been posted to be today.

Note to self: take home same day it arrives

 

[shadowscotland]

That is unlucky, though "cable tidying device" does sound a bit mysterious.
Are you allowed to tell us what it is, or is it top secret?

PK!

It's a high quality version of what most offices have round the walls - it's just I'm not using
it as strictly intended Don't want my bedroom looking to 'office' so I'm using it in it's
most minimal format. Seen to many rooms in my job that had been ruined buy electrical
contractors peppering walls with their mini-trunking guns

Parts of it, will also be applied to the desk - but I've told you to much already.
A build log has to have a few to be revealed secrets

 

[shadowscotland]

Some temp info for you all - and a reminder of my starting point.

[email protected]@100%@42c - Thermalright xp120 and Amber at 7v’s (plus 2 case fans)
[email protected]@100%@52c - Zalman Reserator2 (7300 SE iil)*
[email protected]@100%@43c - Zalman Reserator2 (7300 SE iil)
[email protected]@ 75%@70c - Zalman Reserator2 (B3 stepping)
[email protected]@100%@42c - Zalman Reserator2 (7300 SE iil)
[email protected]@100%@54c - Zalman Reserator2 (7800GT OC iil)

[email protected]@100%@44c - Zalman Reserator2 (x975 [email protected] iil) new blocks
[email protected]@100%@42c - Zalman Reserator2 (x975 [email protected] iil) correct orientation
[email protected]@100%@43c - Zalman Reserator2 (P35 [email protected] iil) open case on wall
[email protected]@100%@47c - Zalman Reserator2 (P35 [email protected] iil) closed case on wall

* ill = inclued in loop

Some more work on optermal voltages and clocks to do - and maybe a complete drain and clean to remove
all the plant life but it's a start.

 

[shadowscotland]

looks pretty cool, look a whole lot better once you get the cables tidied up like

Thanks - new kit arriving this week so should be tidy soon

But in the mean time

Phase 7: Bungee mod
well almost as I used elastic

I’ve been meaning to do this for some time as it was so successful in my last case.
In essence it’s a cheap alternative to the rubber mountings or cradles that house a HHD in a 5.25
drive bay. But I’ve only one spare bay and two hard drives…but I do have a plan

Firstly here the CW01 drive cage – room for 5 HHD

Raptor and barracuda installed.

The drives fix very snugly within the cage so the only way to isolate them is by rotation.
This generates a problem and an opportunity – the drives fixing holes are now redundant and
there’s scores of unused cage fixing slots that can be utilized.

Clip-it’s make good temp knots

A shot of the case half threaded with the drives in position to check position. I used 10mm
flat elastic that works really well with the slots of the aluminum drive cage. When folded back
on it’s self the edges of the metal keep the elastic taught.

Four lines of elastic

I was going to use some drive bay rails from my old Silverstone but in the end I just re-used
the four mounting screws that I had removed earlier. These could even be tighten up to grip
two of the elastic threads on each side.

Tightening cross

The drives were snug, suspended, but still able to move around a little too much for my liking.
So I added a simple twisted loop linking the first threads on either side with the last ones, which
stopping any rotational movement and tighten up the whole cradle.

Curved stitching

Finished cage with the neat end of elastic bungee mod showing. You can also see how the
elastic come up through the slot and over into the first oval, along behind the second
and back up through the third oval and back down the slot again.

Result with the case lid on – near dead of night silence – even the raptors seek noise is now
a whisper, instead of an angry clicking of an hour ago.

Next job isolate the PSU – the fan whoosh at 900rpm is minimal but the resonance it creates
is now the loudest part even if it does have a soothing white noise profile.

 

[shadowscotland]

Don't see any reason why you can use an elastic cradle in a zen - much easier to install in a
bay with the same orintation as the drive. Here's what's left of the array in my TJ05 - had
two HHD and my DVD-rw in it at the time all with their own cradles

TJ05 with elastic array

How drives are mounted (note bottom cord over top and vise-versa)

Wembley is well stocked with habadasheries - will cost you £3 max and a hour of your time.
From memory you might need to drill a few holes in the plastic drive retaining flaps as the zen
5.25 bays are not littered with holes like most.

 

[shadowscotland]

There's only the psu fan in my case and my raptor doesn't overheat
Start a thread in OC/cooling if you get stuck and you'll be surprised at
whats possable with cardboard baffels and elastic cradles.

 

[shadowscotland]

Feels like forever - but is really just three burst of work over a few months

No need to loop the elastic as the fixing screws 'grip' the threads (with a true bungee mod
you screw the fixing through the bungee cord and into the drive) and it's not as if it's being
moved around or kicked when wall mounted

Another small part arrived today - giveing me firewire again (was on my Abit but not the new
Gigabyte board) plus freeing up some cpu cycles for F@H

More on that and it's modification later. Might even get this build finished this week.

Thanks for the comments and hope all your own mods go well.