* Project Teg *
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Weekends progress 25-26/09-10
After all spraying up with lacquer and removing the tape:
Time for some more Deox-Gel in the arches:
During:
After:
All cleaned up and metalwork covered in electrox:
Track Rod ends:
Remove the front clip on the boot:
Then the rear clip. Best to just cut this if poss as access is very difficult so lifting the tabs is nigh on impossible. Was so on drivers side but got it off without killing it on passenger side.
Measure the original assembly once removed (use molegrips of crow spanner and locing tabs on lock washer will break). Then put some loctite on the new inner, new locking washer on there, then tighten up.
Finished with the outer put on.
After all spraying up with lacquer and removing the tape:
Time for some more Deox-Gel in the arches:
During:
After:
All cleaned up and metalwork covered in electrox:
Track Rod ends:
Remove the front clip on the boot:
Then the rear clip. Best to just cut this if poss as access is very difficult so lifting the tabs is nigh on impossible. Was so on drivers side but got it off without killing it on passenger side.
Measure the original assembly once removed (use molegrips of crow spanner and locing tabs on lock washer will break). Then put some loctite on the new inner, new locking washer on there, then tighten up.
Finished with the outer put on.
27/09/10
Now onto some fitting tonight. Still slow progress, especially tonight as I'm feeling crap, so mainly just been sitting by the car, ill and sorry for myself. Pathetic tbh
Dynax UB spray to seal her her, very gloopy waxy substance but very easy to apply from the can.
Prep the new camber arm and torque up the nuts.
Installed the camber arm and also started on the LCA assembly but gave up and am on the pc now falling asleep.
Now onto some fitting tonight. Still slow progress, especially tonight as I'm feeling crap, so mainly just been sitting by the car, ill and sorry for myself. Pathetic tbh
Dynax UB spray to seal her her, very gloopy waxy substance but very easy to apply from the can.
Prep the new camber arm and torque up the nuts.
Installed the camber arm and also started on the LCA assembly but gave up and am on the pc now falling asleep.
ewww
looks like somebody has set fire to your arches
Or pointed their bottom at it
Great stuff though, function over form !
I'm in the middle of doing something very similar to this myself, i'll put some picture up tomorrow night so we can compare procedure
Mine's not getting new buses and the likes until next month, though.
Good stuff, looking forward to your progress pictures. Quite a slow process if fully doing everything, but worth it now it's coming together:
Too tired to update now but here is a little teaser :lol:
Only problem I realised with this is that the camber adjustment is loose so the whole thing moves with a simple tug. Guess I only torqued up the Right side before fitting the camber arm and forget to check the Left. :roll: :lol:
Always be careful when working on both sides and try to either totally do one, or fit one part to each properly, as otherwise you get this failure when working late.
Will update with the full method once both sides are complete and torqued up.
Anyhow the putting together the front - 30-09-10
Lots of lube for the ARB bushes
All bolted up with the LCA compliance bushing (not torqued up)
Doing up the drop link to the ARB end only (RH)
Stick on the hub assembly. Drop it into the LCA where the ball joint sits then do the castle nut up on the camber arm to lock it in (don't forget to slide in the drive shaft.)
Get soem copper grease on the hub nut. PLanning ahead for future removal as this is tight @181Nm
Pics of the castle nuts on the TRE and lower ball joint
Bolt on the fork to the LCA and slip in the damper. THey don't line up well, so only loosley do up the nuts in teh engine bay holding in the damper assembly.
Pretty much all done up.... YAY and doesn't it look pretty.
NOTE: WHEN TORQUING UP READ MANUFACTURERS RECOMMENDATIONS, especially when using OEM bushes as they have to be torqued up under loading, polybushes don't matter so much as are spherical bearing type. I put a block of wood on my jach and raised the whole suspension up anyway just for being pedantic and making sure everything was loaded thus seated correctly.
Pic of the drop link area all done up.
Adjusting camber. To drop the suspension down you must undo the droplink nut that holds it to the LCA assembly. The whole suspension easily move down giving access to the SPC topside nut on the ball joint.
When adjusted to 120Nm you just jack up the suspension again and do up the drop link to hold it up.
Cotter pin in and sorted (do the cotter pins on the TRE and Lower ball joint castle nut too)
Showing off pictures, especially love the first one!!!
Mamimum slammage on default setting the MeisterR's come set as. Far too low but looks awesome!
Lots of lube for the ARB bushes
All bolted up with the LCA compliance bushing (not torqued up)
Doing up the drop link to the ARB end only (RH)
Stick on the hub assembly. Drop it into the LCA where the ball joint sits then do the castle nut up on the camber arm to lock it in (don't forget to slide in the drive shaft.)
Get soem copper grease on the hub nut. PLanning ahead for future removal as this is tight @181Nm
Pics of the castle nuts on the TRE and lower ball joint
Bolt on the fork to the LCA and slip in the damper. THey don't line up well, so only loosley do up the nuts in teh engine bay holding in the damper assembly.
Pretty much all done up.... YAY and doesn't it look pretty.
NOTE: WHEN TORQUING UP READ MANUFACTURERS RECOMMENDATIONS, especially when using OEM bushes as they have to be torqued up under loading, polybushes don't matter so much as are spherical bearing type. I put a block of wood on my jach and raised the whole suspension up anyway just for being pedantic and making sure everything was loaded thus seated correctly.
Pic of the drop link area all done up.
Adjusting camber. To drop the suspension down you must undo the droplink nut that holds it to the LCA assembly. The whole suspension easily move down giving access to the SPC topside nut on the ball joint.
When adjusted to 120Nm you just jack up the suspension again and do up the drop link to hold it up.
Cotter pin in and sorted (do the cotter pins on the TRE and Lower ball joint castle nut too)
Showing off pictures, especially love the first one!!!
Mamimum slammage on default setting the MeisterR's come set as. Far too low but looks awesome!
Adjusted the toe a bit so it looks okish, although one side is toeing out. Will adjust more depending on how she drives.
Camber ain't too bad, just a little bit of negative JDM lean y0.
As long as I can get to Performance Autoworks fine then all is good, and get a few hundred miles under the belt so the springs etc settle.
Camber ain't too bad, just a little bit of negative JDM lean y0.
As long as I can get to Performance Autoworks fine then all is good, and get a few hundred miles under the belt so the springs etc settle.
Soldato
- Joined
- 5 Mar 2009
- Posts
- 5,454
- Location
- North East
wowee looks like you've been a busy body likes liking your work keep up the good job buddy 
You spent all that time getting your components painted and looking fresh then bash the hell out of them putting them on
I will put some photos of mine up this weekend at some point, i've basically taken the entire car forward of the bulkhead back to bare metal, it'll be primed, sealed and painted this weekend. All the suspension arms have been taken back to bare metal, then painted with chassis paint so it's durable. New bushes will be next months job.
I will put some photos of mine up this weekend at some point, i've basically taken the entire car forward of the bulkhead back to bare metal, it'll be primed, sealed and painted this weekend. All the suspension arms have been taken back to bare metal, then painted with chassis paint so it's durable. New bushes will be next months job.
Searched in google and the first match was a world of warcraft add on
Then the brain kicked in
I'm a bit fo a trek from everywhere, but am getting it setup at Performance Autoworks.You spent all that time getting your components painted and looking fresh then bash the hell out of them putting them on
I will put some photos of mine up this weekend at some point, i've basically taken the entire car forward of the bulkhead back to bare metal, it'll be primed, sealed and painted this weekend. All the suspension arms have been taken back to bare metal, then painted with chassis paint so it's durable. New bushes will be next months job.
Yeyeye I know, annoying. No real bashing, bar with a rubber mallett. Most of those chips were from holdign the arms in the workmate and tightening them up. Really annoying as the assembly is an awesome shape thus it got some chips. Will touch it up though
ounds like exactly what I want to do with the bulkhead and engine bay area, but I'm going to just enjoy the car now, otherwise it will become more of an art piece than a road car
Looking forward to your pics, get a thread up 
Soldato
- Joined
- 18 May 2010
- Posts
- 12,927
Ah very impressive, i'm sure PA will set it up perfectly
I'll drive down to cornwall everynight after work to do a little. I'm such a nice guy and all that jazz
02-10-10
Finished up the front and gave it a little more height. Still too low but it will do for the time being as I needed to crack onto the rear with some speed.
180 Degree spinage back into the garage. This was pretty hard to do with the shape of the drive once you come out of the garage and the massive pine trees close by.
03-10-10
As ever Plusgas really is amazing, and lots of soaking the night before work, before work, then during the work really helped. Sheered 2 bolt heads today but they were small 10mm things that hold the ABS line on. Nothing much to drill out and re-tap.
Rear end looking ripe for some ripping apart
Firstly the drop links come off to take the ARB tension off the LCA then allowing the ARB to be fully removed
Lower tie bar removed (x2 bolts)
Removing the ARB bushes and housing. tight access on drivers side with the backbox, but got the 24inch breaker bar in there to loosen the top bolt.
Toot
Big sigh of relief on these. Started off thinking the bolt was welded into the bush which turned, but the plusgas helped again and eventually the bushe stopped moving and the bolt came out.
Camber arm bolt to teh hub assembly off. Left the camber arm attached to the body which will be done last with better access once everything else is off.
Did loads more with all other bolts loosened up, etc, but will post that info up tomorrow when everything is taken off.
As ever Plusgas really is amazing, and lots of soaking the night before work, before work, then during the work really helped. Sheered 2 bolt heads today but they were small 10mm things that hold the ABS line on. Nothing much to drill out and re-tap.
Rear end looking ripe for some ripping apart
Firstly the drop links come off to take the ARB tension off the LCA then allowing the ARB to be fully removed
Lower tie bar removed (x2 bolts)
Removing the ARB bushes and housing. tight access on drivers side with the backbox, but got the 24inch breaker bar in there to loosen the top bolt.
Toot
Big sigh of relief on these. Started off thinking the bolt was welded into the bush which turned, but the plusgas helped again and eventually the bushe stopped moving and the bolt came out.
Camber arm bolt to teh hub assembly off. Left the camber arm attached to the body which will be done last with better access once everything else is off.
Did loads more with all other bolts loosened up, etc, but will post that info up tomorrow when everything is taken off.
Update
All suspension removed and RTA banged out with my manly wang [/alpha]
No more pics as I can't be bothered tbh with me jetting off to Cali on saturday, plus I have failed to complete the rear before my trip as planned.........
mainly as last night whilst pressing out the 2nd bush on the rear lower control arm I managed to totally destroy the hefty bench vice with the jaw shattering and sheering off the base.
Anyhow ,the first bush came out with a massive BANG and you MUST MUST MUST wear safety specs when doing this. Lots of 3/8 sockets around the edge of the arm to stop it buckling, 22mm socket pressing out the bushing and a 32mm one on the other side where it was being pressed into. Leant into the vice hard, there was an almighty BANG, one of the 3/8 sockets flew up and bounced off the rim of my safety specs, the rest flew everywhere and on the floor was an arm with a hole in it and the 2 havles of the bush (hacksawed first) lieing on the floor also. Then I did the vice.
Ordered a new one from machine mart and hopefully won't do the same to that one. Lots more plusgas and some more hacksawing first to clear all bush between the folded parts to help it come apart when I try again.
/sadface
All suspension removed and RTA banged out with my manly wang [/alpha]
No more pics as I can't be bothered tbh with me jetting off to Cali on saturday, plus I have failed to complete the rear before my trip as planned.........
mainly as last night whilst pressing out the 2nd bush on the rear lower control arm I managed to totally destroy the hefty bench vice with the jaw shattering and sheering off the base.
Anyhow ,the first bush came out with a massive BANG and you MUST MUST MUST wear safety specs when doing this. Lots of 3/8 sockets around the edge of the arm to stop it buckling, 22mm socket pressing out the bushing and a 32mm one on the other side where it was being pressed into. Leant into the vice hard, there was an almighty BANG, one of the 3/8 sockets flew up and bounced off the rim of my safety specs, the rest flew everywhere and on the floor was an arm with a hole in it and the 2 havles of the bush (hacksawed first) lieing on the floor also. Then I did the vice.
Ordered a new one from machine mart and hopefully won't do the same to that one. Lots more plusgas and some more hacksawing first to clear all bush between the folded parts to help it come apart when I try again.
/sadface
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