* Project Teg *

-Ad- · 2 Sep 2010 at 20:28

fonzee said:
sweet, i love pics.

sounds like you need a grinder in future mate, far less hassle! saviour for drop link issues etc.

Got one but haven't used it in years plus the ARB moved a lot and wedging it would have been ineresting. Taking it nice and slowly, not trying to slip or do something silly.

Forks came out of the Deox-C tonight after a 24hour soak

Need another soak but wow this stuff really is the ****!

fonzee · 2 Sep 2010 at 21:29

yep, expensive mind!

-Ad- · 2 Sep 2010 at 23:16

Deox-C results after a 24hour soak and approximately 10:1 ratio. I'll let the pictures do most the talking.

Not much change after 24 hours.

And after a little rub with a metal brush

Needs another soak as I think the solution was fully saturated with all the dead metal left in the bowl. Then some electrox to prime and protect the metal substrate and finally some satin black and lacquer over the top.

-Ad- · 5 Sep 2010 at 23:43

Small update from this weekend as only worked on it today.

Sunday 5th September

Only a bit of work today but started with getting the bushes out.

Compliance were not that hard and easy enough to cut away the rubber flanges then press out the bush. x2 cuts into the centre metl pin, releasing the outwards pressure, then hitting out the rest of it with a big ****ing hammer (BFH).

LCA bushes were not that easy and I used the drilling then pressing out with sockets and vice method. To take out the metal sleeve I cut a slot to relieve the forces exerted outwards to the LCA. It seems easy on the guides but is actually quite tough trying to get the LCA in the vice right and cut a slit enough to release the sleeve without cutting into the arm.

To finish with I put the forks in another 10:1 Deox-C soak tonight to finish them off.

Berger · 5 Sep 2010 at 23:46

The ones in the arms I burnt out using a blowtorch.

Get them going and then let them burn for ages until the rubber crinkles up and flakes off.

Can help it along using an old screwdriver to wiggle the centre metal piece to help free it.

Then just a case of cutting the old shells through and drifting them out with a socket or something while being careful you don't cut into the arm.

-Ad- · 5 Sep 2010 at 23:48

Tried using my torch but couldn't get the rubber to properly set alight

Will try it again though as it should be much easier with burned and brittle rubber.

Berger · 6 Sep 2010 at 00:01

-Ad- said:
Tried using my torch but couldn't get the rubber to properly set alight

Will try it again though as it should be much easier with burned and brittle rubber.

Depends on the size of your torch.

I have a medium/small one and needed to leave the torch propped up keeping the flame on the bush for a few minutes.

Borrowed a larger one and it was a lot easier.

Could always just have a small BBQ....

-Ad- · 9 Sep 2010 at 23:43

Front bushes are all out, now just killing the remainder of the rust on the arms and in the front arches, then painting/sealing up ready for the bush and arm reinstall.

Dead bush is dead!

Nom nom nom rust eater, other parts of the LCA go in tomorrow morning for an 8hr soak alongside the more rusty parts in the pic.

Some surface rust under the front arch + Deox Gel

Removed Deox Gel after 60min soak. Another hit with an improved technique (spatula or old store card) should sort that nicely.

Janesy B · 10 Sep 2010 at 01:37

Would it not be quicker to just sink the car in giant vat of Deox gel?

-Ad- · 10 Sep 2010 at 08:45

Janesy B said:
Would it not be quicker to just sink the car in giant vat of Deox gel?

Nah, the Deox-C (crystals) dissolved in a swimming pool. Then drive your car in, leave for a while and get some polishmen on the other side to scrub it clean.

Better get my pitch ready for Dragons Den

-Ad- · 17 Sep 2010 at 00:04

Thursday 16/09/10

Getting bits together ready for installing the bushes this weekend and finishing off the arms ready for full installation and setup in the first half of next week.

Lots of banging with a chunky mallet finally got the ball joints out of the hubs. Not easy but eventually that one big whack will dislodge it!

After days of removing rust and prepping the arms, finally the electrox goes on. Brush strokes look horrible, but it goes on easily enough. Then during drying teh brush strokes disappear leaving a nice smooth finish.

Had a look at my brakes to get the casting numbers and prices off Bigg Red for a refurb. But might try and do the refurb myself and save some more pennies, plus their refurb won't do the carriers.

TaKeN · 17 Sep 2010 at 00:43

Good Stuff!

Relentless81 · 17 Sep 2010 at 10:10

All this restoration work which is great, but a short ram intake?

-Ad- · 17 Sep 2010 at 10:19

Relentless81 said:
All this restoration work which is great, but a short ram intake?

The car came with it. There is a flat spot in the mid-range but I don't care at the moment as the noise is great and the handling and brakes have taken priority by a long way.

Engine is fine as it is, plus am not prepared to spend £280 on a replica Mugen type intake.

Relentless81 · 17 Sep 2010 at 10:21

Thats fair enough, you can pick up a used OEM intake off ITR-DC2 or places like Japperformanceparts for not so much money and it will much better than the short ram, the noise wont be as nice though

I take it thats the Tegiwai replica?

-Ad- · 17 Sep 2010 at 11:10

Relentless81 said:
Thats fair enough, you can pick up a used OEM intake off ITR-DC2 or places like Japperformanceparts for not so much money and it will much better than the short ram, the noise wont be as nice though

I take it thats the Tegiwai replica?

Ye, should be quite easy as I still have the resonator box, but I would be tempted to make up a heat shield and put some cold air ducting there to help a bit (for very little outlay), just that £280 for the Tegiwa Rep is too much money. It might be well made and will help free a little power, but the price vs gains isn't very high.

Been in a Dc2 with an OEM airbox and it sound really pap to be honest and have fallen in love with the sound, silly me

Will be taking the car to the Dyno run being organised so will see what I get with the short ram, or might have even created the shield/duct mods by then.

Relentless81 · 17 Sep 2010 at 11:22

The filter element in the Tegiwai reps concern me, looks like an ebay jobby which for the price I wouldnt expect and the filter elements are always overlooked but the rest of the kit looks good, fills a huge gap in the market, the genuine stuff is an insane amount of money

Look forward to the RR results

Jonnycoupe · 17 Sep 2010 at 12:12

Ive still my ITG Maxogen. The intake trumpet part is slightly crushed at the end but nothing a bit of fibreglass and black paint couldn't sort.

You interested if i get a pick to you?

numnutz · 17 Sep 2010 at 14:58

All looking good. Refurb the brakes yourself, I did them all on my Nissan myself and it didn't take too long, thats with 4 pots up front and twins at the back. Brakeparts.co.uk for seals etc, and replace the piston if there's any corrosion on the piston so you never have to do it again

-Ad- · 18 Sep 2010 at 23:22

Jonnycoupe said:
Ive still my ITG Maxogen. The intake trumpet part is slightly crushed at the end but nothing a bit of fibreglass and black paint couldn't sort.

You interested if i get a pick to you?

Thanks for the offer Jonny, but I really can't spend anymore money. Just ordered some Hankook RS2 and have a new alarm to get sorted, then a 3 week holiday + stag party to the West Coast (USA) so I am moneyless

numnutz said:
All looking good. Refurb the brakes yourself, I did them all on my Nissan myself and it didn't take too long, thats with 4 pots up front and twins at the back. Brakeparts.co.uk for seals etc, and replace the piston if there's any corrosion on the piston so you never have to do it again

Tempted to have a go but might get them from brakes international, well the rears. They are binding so would rather get properly done ones then refurb the fronts myself as they are fine at the moment and also simpler to work on.

18-09-10

Not much work today to be honest, but I did drink far too many Fuego Manzana and Ginger+Chilli Coktails last night in Islington. But boy were they worth it.

Anyway, Suspension arms got another coat of electrox today to coat up any gaps then I set to work on the hub assemblies to clean off the rust and crap, ready for some cheeky electrox tomorrow. Some bushes to be fitted tomorrow with some satin black spraying :lol:

Anyhow, Deox-C for the hubs tonight, but elevated them to keep the wheel bearing well away from the solution, so not everything will be treat. One problem was getting the assemblies deep enough into the bath of Deox-C, and if you can't bring them to the solution then dump in some bricks to bring the solution up to them 8)

As I'm close to putting things back together I might as well show off my new bits, and boy has the Credit Card taken a hammering.

Firstly all my new, Outer + Inner TREs, Drop links and lower ball joints for the front.

Now the lovely Zeta-S coilovers from MeisterR

New Rear camber arm, only SPC/Eibach to trust for these.

Sexy new forger aluminium front UCAs (adjustable camber + castor)

New brembo blanks for the front and ebc blacks for the rear.

Carbone Lorraine RC5+ pads all around, HEL F+R hoses and ATE super racing blue fluid.

Finishing off with some Mfactory shifter bushings.