Project: TJ07 Revived

I think I might just add a second flow sensor! I'm itching to add another aquabus device! I have the rtc module which gives me an extra aquabus high port. I'm guessing it'll have to be an mps as there's only one flow port on the aquaero. I will take your suggestions as it will work well in my setup and with a 2nd flow sensor i can measure flow on both res/pumps.
 
You're unlikely to find much difference in flow at different points in one closed loop. If there is its because you've got problems with one res emptying.

Yes, if you connect the return to the bottom centre it rises up the central shafts and fountains from the top - provided the top centre is blocked. If you connect it to the top centre it will fill the shafts and fountain out the top - provided the bottom is blocked.

Aquabus can be split if you need. There are specific aquabus y-splitters but they're just the same as a fan splitter or PWM splitter. All they do is connect each wire to each device - so you could split the connection and the run a cable to each device or you could run the cable to one device and then have the cable connect from there to the next device like PSUs do with molex power wires.

Bitspower are good...just not cheap. Are you aware of Barrow? Very similar but cheaper and without the logo.

I already have one splitter so I can have 3 devices with the RTC module!

I'll use the flow sensors mostly to make sure there's no sudden massive flow drop, like you said from a res emptying, just to add another safety feature. So I'd have it immediately after the pump! That's my logic anyway, I just love these things lol. I just want to add more aquabus things for the sake of it :p

You mentioned barrow but I havent looked them up yet. Now you reminded me, if I need anything else I'll check out barrrow. I just have an itchy (add to basket) trigger finger :D when it comes to OCUK (must be all the haribos :p).
 
You're unlikely to find much difference in flow at different points in one closed loop. If there is its because you've got problems with one res emptying.

Yes, if you connect the return to the bottom centre it rises up the central shafts and fountains from the top - provided the top centre is blocked. If you connect it to the top centre it will fill the shafts and fountain out the top - provided the bottom is blocked.

Aquabus can be split if you need. There are specific aquabus y-splitters but they're just the same as a fan splitter or PWM splitter. All they do is connect each wire to each device - so you could split the connection and the run a cable to each device or you could run the cable to one device and then have the cable connect from there to the next device like PSUs do with molex power wires.

Bitspower are good...just not cheap. Are you aware of Barrow? Very similar but cheaper and without the logo.

Should I get the USB MPS High Flow instead of the MPS 400? I read the impeller one is much more accurate. There's some reviews out there that show the Pressure one not to be very accurate because of some algorithm used. If you keep the flow sensor flat apparently it's quiet. It's when it's at an angle the impeller whines.. I'd also need to stick it on an angled fitting I think and the impeller version works better in that case? I'd have thought the impeller version was faster to react to flow loss and report it quicker, looking at the reviews the pressure version isn't responsive fast enough so there might be lag. I don't think I can post the review here.


Oh also, I tried to see if I could get the top rad connected to the inlet on the Res, it looks pretty tight and slightly off angle if you look at the pics below. Maybe it would be easier to get the return line from the motherboard and loop the rad in somewhere before. It will all work out in the end...I hope :p

Ignore the rust looking colour. Problem with using flash in such an enclosed space lol.

Oh you can also see the flow indicator screwed into the GPU. Not sure if that is a good idea there. I'd also want to stick the flow sensor between there from the Koolance Out port.

20160804_234242.jpg

20160804_234313.jpg

20160804_233958.jpg

20160804_234008.jpg

20160804_234025.jpg
 
The high flow sensor doesn't so much whine as click slightly - even when flat (but less so). The faster it spins, the louder it is. Depends how loud everything else is as to whether you can hear it though - my system is pretty quiet with all fans normally 800rpm or less so I can hear mine when the pump is at full.
It's not fussed about the straightness of input and output though. Can't comment on responsiveness or accuracy compared to the MPS version though.

Res connection: have you tried a double 45 instead of a 90? They're a bit of a wider curve and also adjustable in case it's not exactly straight. May need to remove one extension and add in a very slim male to male coupler and hope it lines up without a rotary.

I saw a couple of Youtube videos where people have said the clicking stopped eventually, from days to weeks later. Something to do with air in the impellor

I tried a dual rotary fitting yeah. Worst case scenario I can get a rotary fitting to swing around the res and go back on itself and use an angled fitting
 
So I got the USB High Flow sensor and blew into it, it makes a noise (obviously), a loud rattle. The other High Flow sensor (Non-USB) wasn't really as noisy when I blew into it. I'm assuming they're both the same besides the USB version having slightly different electronics. Won't be able to gauge the noise it makes until they're both in the loop.

Is it safe to let the flow sensor hang off tubing in the air (I.e without sitting on anything) as that is what I'll probably have to do. They're quite light so I don't see any issues with it personally. I also saw a few youtube videos where people did that but whether that was just for testing or not I'm not sure.
 
As far as I'm aware, the moving parts bit of the sensor is a Digmesa sensor and in the USB version, Aqua Computer have just bolted an interface to the front. Information here: https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2012/01/21/aquacomputer-water-high-flow-sensor-meter

Can't see any reason you can't have it suspended other than from what I'm told, the spindle should be kept upright (steel face of box pointing upwards) to minimise noise from the bearing. I don't think it makes it less accurate if it isn't, just noisier and possibly it could reduce the life of the bearing...but I'm speculating there that more noise equals more friction.

You're right I've read that too. Silver pointing upwards is do-able even though it'll show up in the case (Spray paint/vinyl? Thinking of spraying the SLI Bridge black too! :D). I do like that nice brushed silver but probably looks better in black)

Too bad I can't just stick in some WD40 :p
 
Last edited:
Ok so I've been away for a couple weeks hence the lack of any updates...

At the moment I'm still trying to get this stuff tubed up, it's getting frustrating that I might just put in a simple loop and move all the Aqua computer stuff into a different case.....maybe a caselabs :).

It's clear these cases although quite cool and retro to keep, just too impractical for extreme watercool builds lol.

I'll try again but the wasted pile of weird tubing lengths is piling up lol
 
Update!!!!

So this is what my build looks like now, managed to get most of it tubed up. The remaining is bloody hard due to the very tight space I'm working with!

20160912_005425_1.jpg


20160912_005449_1.jpg


20160912_005503.jpg



The tube from the top rad at the front of the case is going to the intake of the koolance dual pump/res and the one going from the visual flow meter is going onto the outtake. The additional silver aqua computer flow sensor visible on the bottom is from the return of the GPU parallel sli terminal going to the bottom rads. As you can see the tube from the top rad going to the intake in the koolance needs to be angled at 90 degrees and I have to angle the fitting in the top rad as the aqualis res gets in the way of the top rads outlet! So i will probably need a 90 degree fitting with barbs on both sides to get the tubing to fit the res. I'm trying to give the tube some slack so that i can take the koolance res out slightly to fill it using its fill ports in the top. The ones on the front are a bit awkward to use and also under the g1/4 screw the opening is actually very small so would take a long time to fill and bleed! However the fill ports in the top of the koolance res have a full opening so that is what I will use.

For filling the Aqualis res, I'll probably have to settle for screwing some tubing into one of the top inlets.

I think it may be a bit messy but hope when the coolant is filled it will look fine. Also I don't think ill be able to make use of the top fill port in the case as again its very tight in there to align with the aqualis reservoir so hence why I'll probably just use some tubing.

Would I be able to fill both res from just the koolance? For initial filling/bleeding I'll need to use both obviously.

Will try to finish it tomorrow evening hopefully!

My next project will probably be in a caselabs case, but won't be any time soon and will be on completely new architecture! So that will be an exciting project and hopefully easier!

And next time if I'm going with a dual res design I'll go with two of the same and not use the bay res! Bit over ambitious trying to squeeze all of this into a 15 year old case design I think :p :)
 
Last edited:
Have you come across the D-Plug fittings yet? Might mean you can pull the res off, fill it and put it back - obviously depends on whether there's going to be any flow (into the case!) while not there. If there is, QDCs would work but aren't cheap.

If you're talking about topping up, you should be able to top up anywhere and it'll find its own level. As you say, for starting up you'll need to fill both as you need both pumps fed with coolant - they don't like running dry. Alternatively, you could fill one and only run one pump. That would fill the other and probably the rest of the loop too. Worst case you flip-flop between which pump you're running....just try to stop the pump before it runs dry or you'll get air locks.

You could probably tidy things up a bit with thinner tubing - as long as it's about 10mm ID you're not going to see much of a gain going higher as G1/4 fittings have an ID just less than 10mm - and also fittings to make runs straighter. The thing is, with the number of runs you've got going on, you're going to be spending lots on fittings to do that and only you can decide whether it's worth it. If you're already thinking different case it sounds like it wouldn't be. If you have a look at some of the builds with Bitspower hardline and right-angles you'll see what I mean - it looks great but damn is it expensive!

I've seen those D-Plugs but I always thought yanking them out would result in coolant rushing out so didn't seem practical and QDC's seem to be better to me.
I have like 4 Koolance QDC's lying around that I used to use but this time round didn't seem practical. I used two QDC between the bottom two rads so I can remove them for various reasons. One is attached between the 480mm rad and the flow sensor and the other is between the 240mm and 480mm rad. I have 2 QDC's but due to the Aqualis res getting in the way it'll be quite difficult to reach them. That's the issue I'm having at the moment with the Koolance Res as the motherboard tray prevents me from reaching the res from behind (:eek: lol..)..

I've already invested in the fittings now and the larger tubing has a bit more flex to it. I used to use thinner tubing but it used to kink. The issue is mostly because I crammed so much stuff in there. Lessons learnt for next time :)

Oh yeah hardline or acrylic next time for sure instead of flexible tubing, but I'm such a klutz it'll be quite costly before I get the bends right probably! I also don't actually know how to do it yet lol

When I get around to that I'll end up removing all the Aquacomputer gear from this project to use and keep just the koolance dual res, but I really want to get some good use out of this project before I end up doing that so it could be a while. Maybe when the 1080 or Titan Ti editions come out...or even later than that...these dual 980Ti's will still have a good few years of use yet until I need to upgrade..
 
Last edited:
Update!!! YES I DID IT!!!

Okay, so I've managed to get the loop tubed up! Man it was tight as hell my hands are all calloused! Definitely crammed way too much in here as you can see from the pics, however it will do for now. I'm just excited to have a proper gaming session which I haven't had for most of this year, unless you count PS4 as gaming (insert PC Master Race joke here :p)

I guess I can make it look cleaner by shortening the tube going from the Flow Indicator to the Outlet in the Koolance res as it kinda looks at an angle! However at this stage I'm just glad I managed to get the loop plumbed up. I tightened the fittings as good as I can and hopefully there's not too much stress on the angle/rotation fittings as well as a couple joints where I've used g1/4 extenders which I hope will hold and not leak all over the expensive hardware!

Anyway, I'm ready to fill up the loop, but first I will fill it up with the Part 2 of the Mayhems Blitz Pro Cleaning system to make sure any residual crap is removed that might affect the loop (the mesh filter will probably need to be cleaned at this point so it's nice and handy to keep as hopefully the crap will all end up there, eventually).....and also I might have gotten bored and blown into the pipe to hear the impellers in the flow sensors spin and the flow indicator move and also to feel my breath come out of the other end of the loop...so definitely needs the Blitz Pro and a couple of flushes :eek:

Anyway...poor quality low light phone pictures below!


20160913_003253.jpg



20160913_003218.jpg



20160913_003206.jpg







Also, I still need 2 3pin fan splitter cables that split at least 4 fans and with only 1 RPM wire connected and I'll need them asap so if anyone can send me any details of any they know via trust or something that would be great!
 
Extenders are usually fine. An o-ring against a flat surface is unlikely to fail. Only issue is if it's not reasonably tight you can get it being undone if you're twisting stuff about.

Your breath shouldn't be a problem as any bacteria should be killed by the biocide in your coolant or a silver kill coil if you use one of those instead.

PC master race? Well it depends on the hardware. The consoles are actually pretty capable if you consider their price vs even just a graphics card. My only issue is that a mouse is SO much easier for any game with point of view.

Fan splitters you can get any splitter and just chop the tacho wire from the 2nd, 3rd and 4th headers. Even take the pins out if you want.

Good to see it all together.

I saw a wasd keyboard and mouse for the ps4 yesterday! Would seriously consider if OCUK has it!
 
Such a monster case for a monster loop ;)

How much space is there for cable management in there?

That's the reason I havent shown the back of my case :p. There's a pic a few pages away of the back which you can see is a bit of a jungle atm.

I'll be able to get all the cables tucked away once I've filled and leak tested the loop with a spare psu.
 
To be fair if you take a bit of time you can get it looking great, it helps air flow too...problem for me is the CPU fans and that kind of thing!

Well, no ones going to see the cables as they're all in the rear. And everything is watercooled so no issues with airflow in my case (pun intended). The rear doesn't matter if its hidden behind a case, provided the case panel is able to close.
 
Spend 20 minutes with a few cable ties and you'll be proper pleased with yourself

I'll post mine (if) my new motherboard and cable kit arrive by Friday :(

Oh yeah I did buy a whole bunch of zip ties for that purpose with adhesive things. The bitfenix 2.0 cables I have are very neat. The rear will be neatened up a bit of course! I used the cable combs for the GPU 8 pin cables so they look neat. The rest can't really see from the front so its pretty clean anyway.

Look at my next update for a quick glance at my case
 
Last edited:
UPDATE!!!! Loop filled!! (Andbthen leaked :P) Air bled, Mayhems Blitz Pro Part 2

Interesting day today!

So I mixed 25ml of Mayhems Blitz Pro part 2 to 975ml of distilled water and filled my loop. Powered on the pumps and tried to bleed the loop...so far so good until I checked under the Koolance res and it appeared to have a very tiny leak but enough to drip fairly often. I took this opportunity to test the drain valve which worked like I imagined! Opening the fill ports of the reservoirs and the drain valve with a hose screwed into it and going into a container it poured straight out. I had about 2.5L of Blitz Pro part 2 solution (mixed with the DI water) in the loop and nearly all of it came out, enough so that I can take everything apart for cleaning and maintenance. So the outlet port on the Koolance res was leaking. I also have a Phobya temp sensor screwed into the outlet port and from there a fitting connecting to the hose going to the visual flow indicator.
Having removed it, I had a good look and the O ring looked fine. I rembered I had some PTFE tape lying around (used to make watertight seals around O rings on copper pipes) and wrapped that around the threads of the Phobya temp sensor and fitting and voila, fixed the leak! There were a couple other leaks which I just needed to fix by tightening fittings and in one case the visual flow indicator needed tightening, it gave me a scare as I thought my GPU blocks or SLI terminal bridge were leaking! :eek:

I also used a bit of tubing I poked through the fill port hole in the top of the case to fill the Aqualis reservoir as it was impossible to bleed the loop by just filling the Koolance res. Also that Koolance res with the dual d5 pumps performs amazingly! It pushes a LOT of fluid! I had to turn them down as the AquaComputer D5 mounted to the Aqualis res couldn't keep up (maybe it defaults to a really slow speed without the Aquaero plugged in). Even with the D5's cranked down and deciding to connect the Aquaero, I measured 190l/h with just one of the flow sensors!

After running the Mayhems Blitz Pro part 2 solution for an hour or 2, I noticed my Aqua computer Steel Mesh Filter was full of debris so the stuff really does work! And it's so easy to clean without even having to drain the loop! You can even close the valves on the back and it bypasses the filter from the loop and it can be done with the pumps running, however I felt the noise of the pumps change as well as the flow indicator slow down so clearly it is a bit restrictive doing it this way. Well for me with 3 D5's anyway :p

Also regarding the flow sensor noise; even with two of those I can't even hear them! In fact even the pumps are so quiet! I measured around 2300rpm on the pumps. Really happy with all the sound dampening I did on this case and the anti vibration feet I fitted as well.

All in all, very happy with this build now, got it semi working 6 months later! Phew :D

Ok now picture time!

20160914_003734.jpg


20160914_003750.jpg


20160914_004648.jpg


20160914_003819_1.jpg


Ignore the weird yellow/bronze/gold tint the camera picks up! It's actually completely clear/transparent!

20160914_003846_1.jpg


20160914_003924.jpg


20160914_003936.jpg


20160914_004005.jpg


20160914_004133_1.jpg


20160914_004240_1.jpg
 
Last edited:
All those iron filings, scary, I'll be flushing before I build for sure

It was flushed! Several times with hot water and Mayhems Blitz Part 1 and just now Part 2.

This crap is the result of Mayhems Blitz Pro rather than not being flushed. Thats the point of it, to loosen and remove crap normal flushing can't get out.

So I recommend Mayhem's Blitz Pro. The bottom 480 and 240 are XSPC, one of the cleanest rad makers . It's probably the top Magiccool rad as they tend to be not as clean and its new. I was suspicious as to why when I used Part 1 not much came out of that rad...
 
Looking good. A disturbing amount of metal filings after the flush but at least the filter caught them. If you've still got it empty it may be an idea to check that none of them are caught in the pumps. I don't know about D5s but on a DDC there is a separate rotor that sits on a bearing and is spun electromagnetically. Because the rotor is a magnet, it can 'grab' metal filings as the come past and you don't want them abrading the bearing or any other part. If the filter is before the pump's, you're probably fine.

One thing to note though. The valves on the filter don't bypass the filter, they're just ball valves and shut off the inlet and the outlet (one valve each). The change of pitch of your pumps will have been because the flow stopped but the pumps were still trying to push the coolant.

Yup the D5's are the same, huge electromagnet with a seperate removable impellor. The filter is before all 3 pumps luckily, that's how I wanted to do it to prevent this exact issue! Well worth it.

You're right. I was writing this up really late and since I have pumps all over the place I didn't take into account that water was still flowing because theres 3 pumps and probably some air left to bleed hence why the flow appeared to be moving!
 
Filled with coolant! Added Koolance QDC

So I've filled the loop with Mayhems X1 and dropped a couple UV CCFLs in temporarily and I looks great!

I also have UV LED Strips and I plan to get some more 3mm and 5mm UV LED diodes to poke into the blocks, and in the Koolance Bay res etc depending on how many I can cram in without running out of Molex power connectors and hopefully being able to tuck away the cables somewhere.

I'm going to use the CCFL lamps in my build as well and try to place them where they work best.

I'm about to plug it all up, fit the aquaero (temporarily fan y cables until my Phobya 9x y cables arrive) and see what it sounds like, however its very quiet and I'm quite happy with it!

Also I put in a Koolacee QDC as you can see to aid in some draining and to pull the res out in case I need to.

IMG_20160915_WA0003.jpg


IMG_20160915_WA0005.jpg
 
It's alive!!

So I powered up the pc and everything fired up! Phew! :cool: Some issue with the USB3 ports however which I'll need to look at. I've looked at the 1366 X58 Xeon 5650 thread where someone had this issue for years until they upgraded to a Xeon and realised their PCIe frequency was set to 101 mhz instead of 100 mhz! Or something to that effect.

I've set all my settings to default so now I think its a PCIe lanes issue. I've got two GTX 980ti's using 16x + 8x (probably 8 not 16 or even 8x+8x). And 8x for the OCZ Revodrive 350. Then the USB3 chip which is a NEC chip (one of those earlier ones, its a bit crap but a premium back then) and a Marvell SATA controller. So probably on the higher limit of the lane limit.

I'll try disabling the Marvel (only use a Samsung bluray drive so it'll go on the Intel one) and maybe a few other unnecessary things (firewire, urghhhhhh!)
 
Back
Top Bottom