Project: TJ07 Revived

You're unlikely to find much difference in flow at different points in one closed loop. If there is its because you've got problems with one res emptying.

Yes, if you connect the return to the bottom centre it rises up the central shafts and fountains from the top - provided the top centre is blocked. If you connect it to the top centre it will fill the shafts and fountain out the top - provided the bottom is blocked.

Aquabus can be split if you need. There are specific aquabus y-splitters but they're just the same as a fan splitter or PWM splitter. All they do is connect each wire to each device - so you could split the connection and the run a cable to each device or you could run the cable to one device and then have the cable connect from there to the next device like PSUs do with molex power wires.

Bitspower are good...just not cheap. Are you aware of Barrow? Very similar but cheaper and without the logo.
 
Cenedd said:
You're unlikely to find much difference in flow at different points in one closed loop. If there is its because you've got problems with one res emptying.

Yes, if you connect the return to the bottom centre it rises up the central shafts and fountains from the top - provided the top centre is blocked. If you connect it to the top centre it will fill the shafts and fountain out the top - provided the bottom is blocked.

Aquabus can be split if you need. There are specific aquabus y-splitters but they're just the same as a fan splitter or PWM splitter. All they do is connect each wire to each device - so you could split the connection and the run a cable to each device or you could run the cable to one device and then have the cable connect from there to the next device like PSUs do with molex power wires.

Bitspower are good...just not cheap. Are you aware of Barrow? Very similar but cheaper and without the logo.
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I already have one splitter so I can have 3 devices with the RTC module!

I'll use the flow sensors mostly to make sure there's no sudden massive flow drop, like you said from a res emptying, just to add another safety feature. So I'd have it immediately after the pump! That's my logic anyway, I just love these things lol. I just want to add more aquabus things for the sake of it :p

You mentioned barrow but I havent looked them up yet. Now you reminded me, if I need anything else I'll check out barrrow. I just have an itchy (add to basket) trigger finger :D when it comes to OCUK (must be all the haribos :p).
 
Cenedd said:
You're unlikely to find much difference in flow at different points in one closed loop. If there is its because you've got problems with one res emptying.

Yes, if you connect the return to the bottom centre it rises up the central shafts and fountains from the top - provided the top centre is blocked. If you connect it to the top centre it will fill the shafts and fountain out the top - provided the bottom is blocked.

Aquabus can be split if you need. There are specific aquabus y-splitters but they're just the same as a fan splitter or PWM splitter. All they do is connect each wire to each device - so you could split the connection and the run a cable to each device or you could run the cable to one device and then have the cable connect from there to the next device like PSUs do with molex power wires.

Bitspower are good...just not cheap. Are you aware of Barrow? Very similar but cheaper and without the logo.
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Should I get the USB MPS High Flow instead of the MPS 400? I read the impeller one is much more accurate. There's some reviews out there that show the Pressure one not to be very accurate because of some algorithm used. If you keep the flow sensor flat apparently it's quiet. It's when it's at an angle the impeller whines.. I'd also need to stick it on an angled fitting I think and the impeller version works better in that case? I'd have thought the impeller version was faster to react to flow loss and report it quicker, looking at the reviews the pressure version isn't responsive fast enough so there might be lag. I don't think I can post the review here.


Oh also, I tried to see if I could get the top rad connected to the inlet on the Res, it looks pretty tight and slightly off angle if you look at the pics below. Maybe it would be easier to get the return line from the motherboard and loop the rad in somewhere before. It will all work out in the end...I hope :p

Ignore the rust looking colour. Problem with using flash in such an enclosed space lol.

Oh you can also see the flow indicator screwed into the GPU. Not sure if that is a good idea there. I'd also want to stick the flow sensor between there from the Koolance Out port.

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The high flow sensor doesn't so much whine as click slightly - even when flat (but less so). The faster it spins, the louder it is. Depends how loud everything else is as to whether you can hear it though - my system is pretty quiet with all fans normally 800rpm or less so I can hear mine when the pump is at full.
It's not fussed about the straightness of input and output though. Can't comment on responsiveness or accuracy compared to the MPS version though.

Res connection: have you tried a double 45 instead of a 90? They're a bit of a wider curve and also adjustable in case it's not exactly straight. May need to remove one extension and add in a very slim male to male coupler and hope it lines up without a rotary.
 
Cenedd said:
The high flow sensor doesn't so much whine as click slightly - even when flat (but less so). The faster it spins, the louder it is. Depends how loud everything else is as to whether you can hear it though - my system is pretty quiet with all fans normally 800rpm or less so I can hear mine when the pump is at full.
It's not fussed about the straightness of input and output though. Can't comment on responsiveness or accuracy compared to the MPS version though.

Res connection: have you tried a double 45 instead of a 90? They're a bit of a wider curve and also adjustable in case it's not exactly straight. May need to remove one extension and add in a very slim male to male coupler and hope it lines up without a rotary.
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I saw a couple of Youtube videos where people have said the clicking stopped eventually, from days to weeks later. Something to do with air in the impellor

I tried a dual rotary fitting yeah. Worst case scenario I can get a rotary fitting to swing around the res and go back on itself and use an angled fitting
 
So I got the USB High Flow sensor and blew into it, it makes a noise (obviously), a loud rattle. The other High Flow sensor (Non-USB) wasn't really as noisy when I blew into it. I'm assuming they're both the same besides the USB version having slightly different electronics. Won't be able to gauge the noise it makes until they're both in the loop.

Is it safe to let the flow sensor hang off tubing in the air (I.e without sitting on anything) as that is what I'll probably have to do. They're quite light so I don't see any issues with it personally. I also saw a few youtube videos where people did that but whether that was just for testing or not I'm not sure.
 
As far as I'm aware, the moving parts bit of the sensor is a Digmesa sensor and in the USB version, Aqua Computer have just bolted an interface to the front. Information here: https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2012/01/21/aquacomputer-water-high-flow-sensor-meter

Can't see any reason you can't have it suspended other than from what I'm told, the spindle should be kept upright (steel face of box pointing upwards) to minimise noise from the bearing. I don't think it makes it less accurate if it isn't, just noisier and possibly it could reduce the life of the bearing...but I'm speculating there that more noise equals more friction.
 
Cenedd said:
As far as I'm aware, the moving parts bit of the sensor is a Digmesa sensor and in the USB version, Aqua Computer have just bolted an interface to the front. Information here: https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2012/01/21/aquacomputer-water-high-flow-sensor-meter

Can't see any reason you can't have it suspended other than from what I'm told, the spindle should be kept upright (steel face of box pointing upwards) to minimise noise from the bearing. I don't think it makes it less accurate if it isn't, just noisier and possibly it could reduce the life of the bearing...but I'm speculating there that more noise equals more friction.
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You're right I've read that too. Silver pointing upwards is do-able even though it'll show up in the case (Spray paint/vinyl? Thinking of spraying the SLI Bridge black too! :D). I do like that nice brushed silver but probably looks better in black)

Too bad I can't just stick in some WD40 :p
 
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It's not a totally daft idea. WD40 is likely to cause problems but it might be an idea to fire a question at Mayhems and see if there's a lubricant that is thick enough to stay in place and not be dissolved or affected by the coolant....they can only say no *shrug*
 
Keep the sensor flat else it will tick. I've tried it mounted vertically and it was loud enough to annoy. Even flat it might tick for a while but they usually stop after a few hours / days.
 
Ok so I've been away for a couple weeks hence the lack of any updates...

At the moment I'm still trying to get this stuff tubed up, it's getting frustrating that I might just put in a simple loop and move all the Aqua computer stuff into a different case.....maybe a caselabs :).

It's clear these cases although quite cool and retro to keep, just too impractical for extreme watercool builds lol.

I'll try again but the wasted pile of weird tubing lengths is piling up lol
 
You could always try designing it all cut out of acrylic :D </muddying the waters>

I'm currently doing an interim build so I have more of a clue how to finish the acrylic headf*** I've started on. From that point of view, you're already ahead of me :D
 
Update!!!!

So this is what my build looks like now, managed to get most of it tubed up. The remaining is bloody hard due to the very tight space I'm working with!

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The tube from the top rad at the front of the case is going to the intake of the koolance dual pump/res and the one going from the visual flow meter is going onto the outtake. The additional silver aqua computer flow sensor visible on the bottom is from the return of the GPU parallel sli terminal going to the bottom rads. As you can see the tube from the top rad going to the intake in the koolance needs to be angled at 90 degrees and I have to angle the fitting in the top rad as the aqualis res gets in the way of the top rads outlet! So i will probably need a 90 degree fitting with barbs on both sides to get the tubing to fit the res. I'm trying to give the tube some slack so that i can take the koolance res out slightly to fill it using its fill ports in the top. The ones on the front are a bit awkward to use and also under the g1/4 screw the opening is actually very small so would take a long time to fill and bleed! However the fill ports in the top of the koolance res have a full opening so that is what I will use.

For filling the Aqualis res, I'll probably have to settle for screwing some tubing into one of the top inlets.

I think it may be a bit messy but hope when the coolant is filled it will look fine. Also I don't think ill be able to make use of the top fill port in the case as again its very tight in there to align with the aqualis reservoir so hence why I'll probably just use some tubing.

Would I be able to fill both res from just the koolance? For initial filling/bleeding I'll need to use both obviously.

Will try to finish it tomorrow evening hopefully!

My next project will probably be in a caselabs case, but won't be any time soon and will be on completely new architecture! So that will be an exciting project and hopefully easier!

And next time if I'm going with a dual res design I'll go with two of the same and not use the bay res! Bit over ambitious trying to squeeze all of this into a 15 year old case design I think :p :)
 
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Have you come across the D-Plug fittings yet? Might mean you can pull the res off, fill it and put it back - obviously depends on whether there's going to be any flow (into the case!) while not there. If there is, QDCs would work but aren't cheap.

If you're talking about topping up, you should be able to top up anywhere and it'll find its own level. As you say, for starting up you'll need to fill both as you need both pumps fed with coolant - they don't like running dry. Alternatively, you could fill one and only run one pump. That would fill the other and probably the rest of the loop too. Worst case you flip-flop between which pump you're running....just try to stop the pump before it runs dry or you'll get air locks.

You could probably tidy things up a bit with thinner tubing - as long as it's about 10mm ID you're not going to see much of a gain going higher as G1/4 fittings have an ID just less than 10mm - and also fittings to make runs straighter. The thing is, with the number of runs you've got going on, you're going to be spending lots on fittings to do that and only you can decide whether it's worth it. If you're already thinking different case it sounds like it wouldn't be. If you have a look at some of the builds with Bitspower hardline and right-angles you'll see what I mean - it looks great but damn is it expensive!
 
Cenedd said:
Have you come across the D-Plug fittings yet? Might mean you can pull the res off, fill it and put it back - obviously depends on whether there's going to be any flow (into the case!) while not there. If there is, QDCs would work but aren't cheap.

If you're talking about topping up, you should be able to top up anywhere and it'll find its own level. As you say, for starting up you'll need to fill both as you need both pumps fed with coolant - they don't like running dry. Alternatively, you could fill one and only run one pump. That would fill the other and probably the rest of the loop too. Worst case you flip-flop between which pump you're running....just try to stop the pump before it runs dry or you'll get air locks.

You could probably tidy things up a bit with thinner tubing - as long as it's about 10mm ID you're not going to see much of a gain going higher as G1/4 fittings have an ID just less than 10mm - and also fittings to make runs straighter. The thing is, with the number of runs you've got going on, you're going to be spending lots on fittings to do that and only you can decide whether it's worth it. If you're already thinking different case it sounds like it wouldn't be. If you have a look at some of the builds with Bitspower hardline and right-angles you'll see what I mean - it looks great but damn is it expensive!
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I've seen those D-Plugs but I always thought yanking them out would result in coolant rushing out so didn't seem practical and QDC's seem to be better to me.
I have like 4 Koolance QDC's lying around that I used to use but this time round didn't seem practical. I used two QDC between the bottom two rads so I can remove them for various reasons. One is attached between the 480mm rad and the flow sensor and the other is between the 240mm and 480mm rad. I have 2 QDC's but due to the Aqualis res getting in the way it'll be quite difficult to reach them. That's the issue I'm having at the moment with the Koolance Res as the motherboard tray prevents me from reaching the res from behind (:eek: lol..)..

I've already invested in the fittings now and the larger tubing has a bit more flex to it. I used to use thinner tubing but it used to kink. The issue is mostly because I crammed so much stuff in there. Lessons learnt for next time :)

Oh yeah hardline or acrylic next time for sure instead of flexible tubing, but I'm such a klutz it'll be quite costly before I get the bends right probably! I also don't actually know how to do it yet lol

When I get around to that I'll end up removing all the Aquacomputer gear from this project to use and keep just the koolance dual res, but I really want to get some good use out of this project before I end up doing that so it could be a while. Maybe when the 1080 or Titan Ti editions come out...or even later than that...these dual 980Ti's will still have a good few years of use yet until I need to upgrade..
 
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Update!!! YES I DID IT!!!

Okay, so I've managed to get the loop tubed up! Man it was tight as hell my hands are all calloused! Definitely crammed way too much in here as you can see from the pics, however it will do for now. I'm just excited to have a proper gaming session which I haven't had for most of this year, unless you count PS4 as gaming (insert PC Master Race joke here :p)

I guess I can make it look cleaner by shortening the tube going from the Flow Indicator to the Outlet in the Koolance res as it kinda looks at an angle! However at this stage I'm just glad I managed to get the loop plumbed up. I tightened the fittings as good as I can and hopefully there's not too much stress on the angle/rotation fittings as well as a couple joints where I've used g1/4 extenders which I hope will hold and not leak all over the expensive hardware!

Anyway, I'm ready to fill up the loop, but first I will fill it up with the Part 2 of the Mayhems Blitz Pro Cleaning system to make sure any residual crap is removed that might affect the loop (the mesh filter will probably need to be cleaned at this point so it's nice and handy to keep as hopefully the crap will all end up there, eventually).....and also I might have gotten bored and blown into the pipe to hear the impellers in the flow sensors spin and the flow indicator move and also to feel my breath come out of the other end of the loop...so definitely needs the Blitz Pro and a couple of flushes :eek:

Anyway...poor quality low light phone pictures below!


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Also, I still need 2 3pin fan splitter cables that split at least 4 fans and with only 1 RPM wire connected and I'll need them asap so if anyone can send me any details of any they know via trust or something that would be great!
 
Extenders are usually fine. An o-ring against a flat surface is unlikely to fail. Only issue is if it's not reasonably tight you can get it being undone if you're twisting stuff about.

Your breath shouldn't be a problem as any bacteria should be killed by the biocide in your coolant or a silver kill coil if you use one of those instead.

PC master race? Well it depends on the hardware. The consoles are actually pretty capable if you consider their price vs even just a graphics card. My only issue is that a mouse is SO much easier for any game with point of view.

Fan splitters you can get any splitter and just chop the tacho wire from the 2nd, 3rd and 4th headers. Even take the pins out if you want.

Good to see it all together.
 
Cenedd said:
Extenders are usually fine. An o-ring against a flat surface is unlikely to fail. Only issue is if it's not reasonably tight you can get it being undone if you're twisting stuff about.

Your breath shouldn't be a problem as any bacteria should be killed by the biocide in your coolant or a silver kill coil if you use one of those instead.

PC master race? Well it depends on the hardware. The consoles are actually pretty capable if you consider their price vs even just a graphics card. My only issue is that a mouse is SO much easier for any game with point of view.

Fan splitters you can get any splitter and just chop the tacho wire from the 2nd, 3rd and 4th headers. Even take the pins out if you want.

Good to see it all together.
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I saw a wasd keyboard and mouse for the ps4 yesterday! Would seriously consider if OCUK has it!
 
Neutral said:
Such a monster case for a monster loop ;)

How much space is there for cable management in there?
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That's the reason I havent shown the back of my case :p. There's a pic a few pages away of the back which you can see is a bit of a jungle atm.

I'll be able to get all the cables tucked away once I've filled and leak tested the loop with a spare psu.
 
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