Project turtle blite

Interesting Read. Good luck with it. I recently tore my pc to pieces installing water cooling etc and will do again once I add my GPU's in the loop.

Its definately a good hobby!

I would hold back on the buying the graphics cards until last minute as the next few months should see some release dates which will effect pricing.
 
thanks for the tip, I got bitten the last time I did a custom build when the gfx card was the first thing I bought, I'm making sure it's the last now.

I'm getting a lill concerned about the top rad being so thin while feeding the cpu, will the rad be sufficient to cool for pre processor?
 
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Firstly remember that the order of the components in the loop will make very little difference, the fluid in my loop goes round in less than a second. This means that there are not really any hot or cool spots and all the liquid is approximately the same temperature. I would say though that a 200 rad and 360 rad may not be great for cooling cpu and 3 gpus. I personally run my fans very low so i cant hear anything but if you dont mind the loud fans then it will probably handle it all, even if it is a little warm.

Im sure you will have thought about this a lot already but you might want to reconsider having three GPUs. In terms of gaming i cant see there being any great advantage and there are always problems when setting up multi gpu systems. Maybe consider just having 2 and see how you get on? that will keep your heat down.

In my case i have a 30mm Magicool 360 in the top and a 200mm in the front. I dont think you will be able to squeeze much more than a 30mm thick in the top, mine is at the very limit of what was possible for me at that stage. maybe if you have a different motherboard then you might be able to squeeze 35mm if they exist. In the front of the case you should bare in mind that the hole spacing for the 200mm rad is slightly different to the hole spacing of the Phobya fan and again slightly different to the holes on the case. This is because there is no set standards for hole spacing on anything over 140mm fans as far as i believe. If your not planning on using all your 5.25 bays then stick 2x120mm rad in the front instead and make it a thick rad, maybe 60mm if you got space. (Im away from my PC until next wednesday so i cant measure stuff for you atm im afraid.) If your feeling very ambitious, look up the blue dragon 600T, it is a very good project with a 4x120mm rad in the front of the case, for a triple GPU system that could be your holy grail.

Next thing i would say is to avoid clear tubing. i have had nothing but bad experiences with it. it just goes yellow or cloudy even thought the fluid remains the same. I have got white tubing that matches my fluid perfectly. It looks like clear tubing because you cant tell the difference between what is in the res and what is in the tubes.

Dont know how much you've thought about fans but i would recommend the corsair SP fans. Unless you want to go thought the whole dieing proces that i did, you will get similar or better performance from the SPs.

If your gonna braid anything, use bungee cord. It takes longer but when you have a bunch of cables that all look like they are made of fabric, it looks absolutely killer. Much better than the MDPC stuff that looks like rubbish imo :)

Dont settle for less than perfect. If you do then you will probably just end up spending more in a couple of months when that little niggly problem haunts you in the night.

AND GET THAT PC ON YOUR DESK SO YOU CAN STARE AT IT :P


Think thats about all the advice i have for now, but i will be watching :) keep up the good work buddy.
 
Firstly remember that the order of the components in the loop will make very little difference, the fluid in my loop goes round in less than a second. This means that there are not really any hot or cool spots and all the liquid is approximately the same temperature. I would say though that a 200 rad and 360 rad may not be great for cooling cpu and 3 gpus. I personally run my fans very low so i cant hear anything but if you dont mind the loud fans then it will probably handle it all, even if it is a little warm.

really? I thought the liquid heated up pretty quick, in that blue dragon thread, the guy complained that his gpu linkage was interrupting the flow of his system, with his secondary gpu temps much higher than the first... and with my diagram, it's shifting left-right-left, which I think may have a small effect on the flow of the system (trying to remove many small issues so they don't make 1 big one).

read a good article on psi per item and what I can expect from each block/rad/fitting etc so according to that I have:

x3 gpu: 2.7psi
x2 rad: 0.4psi
cpu: 1.1psi
motherboard: 2psi
fittings: 0.3psi
tubing 0.5psi

total: 7psi

I seen this flow - pressure chart for a mcp655 which isn't a bad pump (I'm wanting a koolance pmp-450s which is similar, although no idea if that's decent)
mcp655-PQ.gif


if I'm right, my estimated 7 psi will be too much for a single pump, so I think I'll need 2? I was thinking of putting it between the red coloured radiator and the cpu block, this should technically be the halfway point? this should be more than enough for a decent flow... I'd prefer one loop with 2 pumps in a series as it means 1 reservoir which would take up more space than I'd like and I can get 2 quieter pumps.

I was considering making 2 loops to keep the gpus seperate from the rest of the system, but if what everyone else is saying is true, x3 140mm rads for just cpu, mobo and ram would be a lill overkill, focusing 100% of the rads on all instead of 1 part of the system being really cool while the other strained... any advice on that? am I overly concerned about the flow rate?

Im sure you will have thought about this a lot already but you might want to reconsider having three GPUs. In terms of gaming i cant see there being any great advantage and there are always problems when setting up multi gpu systems. Maybe consider just having 2 and see how you get on? that will keep your heat down.

it's not really for gaming, for the hobby :) never done SLI, and money isn't really an issue... but the idea initial idea was to have 1 as a dedicated physics card and the other 2 as full GPU... But then I can go treble so thought may as well

In my case i have a 30mm Magicool 360 in the top and a 200mm in the front. I dont think you will be able to squeeze much more than a 30mm thick in the top, mine is at the very limit of what was possible for me at that stage. maybe if you have a different motherboard then you might be able to squeeze 35mm if they exist.

sweet, it's a tough call because my motherboard and radiator is going to be tight but I won't know how tight until I've bought the motherboard >.< so do I buy the mobo with the rad next to test? or just get the whole setup to test the loop?

In the front of the case you should bare in mind that the hole spacing for the 200mm rad is slightly different to the hole spacing of the Phobya fan and again slightly different to the holes on the case. This is because there is no set standards for hole spacing on anything over 140mm fans as far as i believe. If your not planning on using all your 5.25 bays then stick 2x120mm rad in the front instead and make it a thick rad, maybe 60mm if you got space. (Im away from my PC until next wednesday so i cant measure stuff for you atm im afraid.) If your feeling very ambitious, look up the blue dragon 600T, it is a very good project with a 4x120mm rad in the front of the case, for a triple GPU system that could be your holy grail.

dude that project looks awesome :D and effectively x4 while saving the bays? impressive :) it's a really tempting prospect! I will get a better look on wednesday at my case to see how ambitious it is going to be - I have plenty of time :)

Next thing i would say is to avoid clear tubing. i have had nothing but bad experiences with it. it just goes yellow or cloudy even thought the fluid remains the same. I have got white tubing that matches my fluid perfectly. It looks like clear tubing because you cant tell the difference between what is in the res and what is in the tubes.

Yep! I've read about the gunk buildup from mayhems and other, as well as mixing metals! So much to take in lol! must remember to check one thing at a time :) but for the record I am either going to get all white, or red and blue to match the colours of my headset. will buy all 3 to check.

Dont know how much you've thought about fans but i would recommend the corsair SP fans. Unless you want to go thought the whole dieing proces that i did, you will get similar or better performance from the SPs.

I'll put a current spec on what I want to buy in the original thread like you did :) will help my build process then although I think it will be subject to change :)

If your gonna braid anything, use bungee cord. It takes longer but when you have a bunch of cables that all look like they are made of fabric, it looks absolutely killer. Much better than the MDPC stuff that looks like rubbish imo :)

Dont settle for less than perfect. If you do then you will probably just end up spending more in a couple of months when that little niggly problem haunts you in the night.

lol yeah I know what you mean, I'm gonna braid although I've never braided anything hehe, I'll learn quick enough, my gf is a sewing/knitting queen so she now has a role to play in this build ;) ;) showing me how to braid lol.

AND GET THAT PC ON YOUR DESK SO YOU CAN STARE AT IT :P

it's next to my bed atm so I get a good look when I wake up/go bed ;) I want minimal desk clutter so 4 things go on my desk: kb/m, monitor stand, ps3 controller :) everything else is banned ;)
 
pmp-450 IS an MCP655 (D5) ;) Though the pmp-450 appears to have a tacho cable which isn't always standard on the MCP655

They are often just rebranded occasionally with new tops from the bog standard. The only significant variations are the newer MCP655-PWM and the aquacomputer D5's with USB connectivity/control :)
 
ah, I read there were some rebranded pumps, just not sure which :)
read "tacho" as "tacco" twice before I realised what you typed...

I haven't included a fan controller, mainly because I'm not sure what to get... is there anything in my OP you see I have missed out?
 
Fan controller you want either a Lamptron or an Aquacomputer controller :)

The only thing missing I would say is a good aftermarket top for that pair of D5's, iirc EK make some quite nice white acetal dual D5 tops :)
 
I wasnt aware you were going to cool the whole motherboard. In that case then yes you may well need two pumps. Id put them in series with an adapter. I believe they are available for the D5 Vario pump, commonly used and powerful pump. Can be turned down easily too.

I suppose if money is no issue then yeah i suppose you may as well go for some triple SLI goodness and enjoy it :D

I would say choose your motherboard before you buy the rad for several reasons. Motherboard is more important to aesthetics, performance and cost. Once you have the exact board you want you can figure out how your gonna cool it afterwards :p

the 4x120 rad will not save all your 5.25 bays i dont think but it is a lot of cooling performance which you will need with all that kit.

Personally i recommend sticking to as few colours as possible, keep that in mind. Unless you want to go union jack. In which case rock out with red white and blue all day long :)

Braiding with bungee cord is pretty easy. Find a video guide or something, there are plenty around. Just mind your fingers :-/

Thats fair play, you desk does look mighty tidy like that.
 
Fan controller you want either a Lamptron or an Aquacomputer controller :)

The only thing missing I would say is a good aftermarket top for that pair of D5's, iirc EK make some quite nice white acetal dual D5 tops :)

question about these fan controllers, is there a way I can have them recessed into the 5.25 bay so I can put the cover back over it? I don't want anything on the front bay other than the covers >.<

I wasnt aware you were going to cool the whole motherboard. In that case then yes you may well need two pumps. Id put them in series with an adapter. I believe they are available for the D5 Vario pump, commonly used and powerful pump. Can be turned down easily too.

hehe yeah sorry, there's 1 or 2 things still up in the air at the moment, liquid cooling the ram and motherboard being one of them as I read the maximus runs on the hot side, so I thought it wise to push that at the back of things to do.

what does the adapter do? I went for a koolance pump which is apparently the same as 12V Laing D5 Vario Pump (Swiftech MCP655).
I want the majority of my kit to be 1 brand and koolance make a great cpu cooler as well as best QDCs... so figured may as well add GPU and the rest :) (plus they do look pretty good)

I would say choose your motherboard before you buy the rad for several reasons. Motherboard is more important to aesthetics, performance and cost. Once you have the exact board you want you can figure out how your gonna cool it afterwards :p

I'll update my plans now to include mobo in the next steps :).... grr hurry up new year :mad:

the 4x120 rad will not save all your 5.25 bays i dont think but it is a lot of cooling performance which you will need with all that kit.

Yeah I figured I'd lose at least 1 slot, which is better than losing 2-3 with my initial step, have to thank you for both ideas on putting rads on the front as I had no idea it was possible when I first started considering about a year ago now (lol)

Personally i recommend sticking to as few colours as possible, keep that in mind. Unless you want to go union jack. In which case rock out with red white and blue all day long :)

yeah at most I want red, white, blue and black as that's what is on my headphones.... the mobo is predominately black with red connectors however... I'm thinking when I connect everything (pci and ram) that won't be noticeable, so I will likely have plain black board with white tubing, or black board with red and blue tubing (white still noticeable on the case)... I'll get some red and blue tubing to see how that pans out.

Braiding with bungee cord is pretty easy. Find a video guide or something, there are plenty around. Just mind your fingers :-/

Thats fair play, you desk does look mighty tidy like that.

hehe yeah, hope it doesn't take too long lol but I do have a month to do it before moving onto the next stage.... :)
 
If you don't want anything in the front bays then have a look at the Aquacomputer Aquero LT, its software controlled, basically gives you a small circuit board to attach the fans to and the software does the rest ;)
 
If you don't want anything in the front bays then have a look at the Aquacomputer Aquero LT, its software controlled, basically gives you a small circuit board to attach the fans to and the software does the rest ;)

sweet! is there any disadvantages to a software based controller? something to look up I guess :D I had a brief look into it but only found extender boards, will look into that product now :)
 
Non really, they are only 10w per channel but given you have so many channels and you can group control of them together its irrelevant :)
 
For me, i chose a fan controller with a high wattage per channel because it enabled me to run my pump off the fan controller and reduce the noise from it. This is obviously different for you as you will be just running fans off of it so the 10w per channel shouldnt give you any issues. Love to know how well this works. If its good i might rearrange how i have mine setup.
 
For me, i chose a fan controller with a high wattage per channel because it enabled me to run my pump off the fan controller and reduce the noise from it. This is obviously different for you as you will be just running fans off of it so the 10w per channel shouldnt give you any issues. Love to know how well this works. If its good i might rearrange how i have mine setup.

this is a thought, as I'll have 7 fans running, I'd need at least 9 channels and to be able able to control up to 12v... hmm can I not recess a 5.25 bay controller into the case?
 
this is a thought, as I'll have 7 fans running, I'd need at least 9 channels and to be able able to control up to 12v... hmm can I not recess a 5.25 bay controller into the case?

Of course you can. Its called modding, and you will be doing plenty of that anyway :p
 
Of course you can. Its called modding, and you will be doing plenty of that anyway :p

sorry, the reason I ask is because the bays are tool-less so not sure how it will manage (not been able to check this out)

:D yeah, tomorrow I have to change my mind about the fans I chose, realised they are 3 pin connectors so are not pwm fans which I want, shame as had best cfm.

I think I will just recess a bay controller (if there is room) as I seen one with network capabilities which makes me curious about what's out there.
 
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Update: Got the dremel and side panel today, x3 140mm radiator has been ordered so should be here in a week. I noticed that websites have been listing it with a 30mm depth where as koolance has it listed as 3.05 centimeters. so have to see how that goes when I order the motherboard (probably at the end of the month due to fitting concerns).

Will put up pics and progress later in stage 3
 
not sure, I didn't get much of a chance last time to take proper measurements, I'm completely disassembling the case tonight, I'm tempted to order the motherboard and rad now to see how it will fit tbh....... le sigh update in a minute

ok I've ordered both the motherboard and the radiator (early - I didn't want it to hold back my work so I'm going to be able to cut up this case sooner rather than later) the motherboard I just placed with OCUK, but they don't supply koolance radiators (and some other gear) so I had to go elsewhere (shame as I'm now buying all my koolance gear from a competitor :()

I'll update with some pics on stage 3 when these arrive :)
 
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