I could be wrong but I'm sure K-Tec made one that was near stock in terms of sound.
/edit - http://www.k-tecracing.com/show_product.asp?id=3937&appid=2
If you are considering a remap -talk to Chris at EFI.
Purchased a small French lightweight hot hatch - Renault Clio 172 Cup & NOW 182 Trophy
I could be wrong but I'm sure K-Tec made one that was near stock in terms of sound.
/edit - http://www.k-tecracing.com/show_product.asp?id=3937&appid=2
If you are considering a remap -talk to Chris at EFI.
Well they are round, black and sticky.
I can't really comment much more on them until I have some miles on them, but yes they seem great, not as harsh as I was expecting considering the firm sidewalls and not noisy like R888's always are, grip is higher for sure but need to let them bed in a little before can truly comment on them.
You mean that feeling when it comes on cam?
I notice in main around 5500rpm its a little like VTEC engaging, pulls much harder around 5500rpm and then depending on the mood of the ECU the limiter either kicks at just under 7k or just under 7.5k.
Yes the kick is nice, whilst at the same time there is also nothing wrong with linear power delivery which I guess is what a remap does is give more down low and thus removing the kick or making it less noticeable.
Yeah exactly that, most (or when I read about) remove it and smooth out the whole power curve.
IIRC the power curve dips slightly before the vvt(?) comes in, which makes it more profound. It depends what you want, but I really like the characteristic of it.
The RS tuners seemed really popular when I owned a 182. Also had a pop and bang setting etc, if memory serves right. Obviously needs a decat.
https://www.fastchip.nl/projects/rstuner
Probably pick one up for pennies on the Clio forums.
IIRC the power curve dips slightly before the vvt(?) comes in, which makes it more profound. It depends what you want, but I really like the characteristic of it.
The RS tuners seemed really popular when I owned a 182. Also had a pop and bang setting etc, if memory serves right. Obviously needs a decat.
https://www.fastchip.nl/projects/rstuner
Probably pick one up for pennies on the Clio forums.
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The ECU limits the revs until the engine is up to temperature. Limit should be 7250 rpm when warm and somewhere around 6800 rpm when cold, if it is higher (around 7500 rpm) its already been remapped. The 5K kick isn't down to any sort of VVT.
The RSTuner is a nice bit of kit, as well as remapping, it can datalog and be used for diagnostics.
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If I go remap route, it will be custom with Chris at EFI.
Don't want pops and bangs.
Maybe something that can be done with a custom map is have the improved low down power, but then they just flatten the 5000-5500rpm so when it comes on cam it is still more pronounced.
More power and torque down low is always advantageous simply because that is where you spend so much of the time driving the car.
About 7200-7300rpm is where it seems to kick, it certainly does not go past 7500.
Hi there
So as I mentioned the next step is a full brake refresh with some uprated components:
So the refresh shall consist of:
That shall refresh the brake system to an OEM plus specification.
Had a good drive in the car today, pretty warm sunny day as well at 25c which is of course where the R1R might struggle been more a wet racing tyre, but they performed great, the braking ability is transformed with these tyres. On the ditch finders, hard braking would lock up the wheels and cause skidding (no ABS), whereas now the car stops much better with no skidding, so braking performance on new tyres is vastly improved, be even better with all the above fitted.
Other than that the tyres are certainly more grippy, you can really corner extremely fast, they hint with some understeer towards limits but you can apply more steering and modulate the throttle to re-tighten the line, right on the limit they do squeal a little but of course your going faster. They seem to be also getting better and better with miles.
So as I mentioned the next step is a full brake refresh with some uprated components:
So the refresh shall consist of:
- Brembo front XTRA HC disc
- Brembo rear HC disc with integrated bearing
- EBC Yellow front pads
- Pagid rear pads
- ATE DOT4 Racing fluid
- Goodridge lines
- New rear hubnuts
- New rear spacers for disc
- Calipers shall be fully rebuilt and refurbished as well
That shall refresh the brake system to an OEM plus specification.
Had a good drive in the car today, pretty warm sunny day as well at 25c which is of course where the R1R might struggle been more a wet racing tyre, but they performed great, the braking ability is transformed with these tyres. On the ditch finders, hard braking would lock up the wheels and cause skidding (no ABS), whereas now the car stops much better with no skidding, so braking performance on new tyres is vastly improved, be even better with all the above fitted.
Other than that the tyres are certainly more grippy, you can really corner extremely fast, they hint with some understeer towards limits but you can apply more steering and modulate the throttle to re-tighten the line, right on the limit they do squeal a little but of course your going faster. They seem to be also getting better and better with miles.
Associate
- Joined
- 20 May 2011
- Posts
- 166
What a great thread! You've got me looking at a 172 cup as a project car now
Would not be surprised, it is something I certainly don't want anyway and I generally find popping and banging sounds terrible on anything less than a 5 pot anyway, just does not suit 4 cylinder engines and its questionable on any engine to be honest, I don't mind it on my SVR as it sounds like thunder and machine gun fire and I can choose to have it do it or not within reason.
So does anyone know what are the good power modifications as in the ones which give a bang for buck increase and are easily reversible?
I was thinking ITG panel filter, spots car and a remap. I see some people change the inlet to an RS one or port them, not sure if my car has an RS inlet stock? Again worth it? 182 manifold, worth it?
Associate
Low boost turbo is the route most take these days, if they want more power. Engine Dynamics do a drive in, drive out service for around £2.5k which gives them 230+bhp and similar figure of torque.
The RS2 inlets have been rumoured to becoming back into production, but at £1k+, and they don't really give decent results without all the supporting mods, mine only produced 185bhp and lost top end torque, it definitely felt fast after i had it removed. Your also still looking at £2k+ minimum for 195bhp and around 175ft/lb of torque.
If you hadn't just had your belts done, i'd have said look into Group N timing and a custom Remap at EFi, this gives very good returns, similar to CatCams with standard inlet and TB.
Definitely don't bother with the RS Tuner, they've not got that great a rep anymore, and the customer service is rubbish. Mapping at either EFi, RS Tuning or Engine Dynamics is your best bet, EFI seems to be the most popular.
Matched Inlets, as the earlier 172 inlets weren't cast well, which is why keep try to get hold of the RS stamped version (normally found on 182's)
182 Exhaust Manifold
Decat/sports Cat - If going 182 manifold you'll need a new cat or and decat anyway. The 182 CAT is already a 200 cell cat, not sure if these can be retro fitted.
Phase 1 or V6 airbox is considered to be better than the later boxed version.
Cat Back exhaust is usually required on these anyway as the originals rust through
And a Remap.
You'll not see big gains, but a back to back drive would definitely see noticeable gains. Other than that Group N timing, then you're looking at ITB with Custom Management or Turbo conversion really. But they don't really need silly power to be fun. You should be able to get it to 185-190 bhp with good torque, and it's fairly easy to get a Cup down to sub 900kg.
Don't really want to strip it to be honest, the plan is to keep it reasonably close to OEM or certainly in appearance to not negatively effect its value.
After putting some thought into it:
182 manifold - £50
RS stamped inlet - £50 (should I get it ported and matched or just give it a damn good cleaning and be done with it?)
Can pick those up from ebay quite cheap, I would then probably go for the pure motorsports 200 cel full exhaust system with silencer and downturned back box to keep oem look, rumoured to save around 10kg, make 5HP and the current exhaust is some cheapo Eurocarparts one fitted when it failed MOT on stock exhaust. So get this to fit upto a 182 manifold, or keep 172 manifold and get the version to fit upto to that. Maybe lighter battery and be down to around 980-990kg. I guess could remove stuff like bonnet insulation, rear wiper but do they really weigh anything, don't want to remove interior or radio.
Drop an ITG in the air box, then I guess go get it mapped at EFI see what it makes.
Tempted to buy this:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Renault-...123936?hash=item4b4c1703e0:g:hCcAAOSwfqFapp7K
£80 seems good price, includes injectors too from a 2006 car.
Can I assume my 172 cup 100% does not have RS inlet?
Are the 172 cup and 2006 182 injectors the same?
P.S. But seems 172 Cup's actually had lower RS inlets? Shall try to take a look tonight.
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Soldato
- Joined
- 12 Dec 2002
- Posts
- 2,950
172 cups come with matched RS inlets. My 2003 car did and my track car did.